Speedy "Red Mini Wing" RC Plane

by wersy Nov 20, 2015
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Hello, Wersy!

I use a 300 mm printer, so I would like to print some details in one piece. I also need the ability to install my FPV camera.

Can you give me the stp file of the aircraft assembly, I will make the necessary changes myself?
The received corrected files will be transferred to you.

Why the fuselage is not quite vertical ?

Because it has 2° side pull.
In the slicer you must flatten the stl or turn it 2°.

ok So i'm a bit dumb and there is so much files that I am lost to know wich to take to just print once.
Can you please do sub folder in wich there is like the one with normal wings... and one with cut stuff ?


Which parts you take depends on the print volume of your printer. With a larger printer you can print the larger parts.
The number behind the files is the required print height in mm.
What is the print volume of your printer?

Thanks for you reply

I have an ender 3 so I guess big parts should work on mine

This is great!
So you can take:
wing middle 220
2 of wing left right 220
fuselage front 202
fuselage back 190

And have fun!

Hello, I have some leftover 2300kv motors from quads, would it be to fast for this wing? Should I scale it somewhere (up/down) and how much to run it with 2300kv?

2300kv motors are for outside where they can be cooled.
Inside the fuselage they will run hot.

ok, I will try to make it to be outside (without nose) with 5" props. hope dimensions will fit (strength of motor vs size of the wing). Thanks for informations.
I have 6 motors leftover from crashed/weak builds of quadcopters and searching for use for them.

Good afternoon, I dont know why i cant find the cg specs for this model. plane is finished i just gotta make sure the cg is right before flight!
Thanks for getting back to me!

I called it aerodynamic center 27 mm, CoG ist 27 mm from leading edge.

Good luck for maiden flight!

And please, could you make some pictures BEFORE maiden it? ;-)
I hope you will upload a "Make" anyway.

Comments deleted.

Can you tell me please which a for taller 3dprinter ? I made some element in double because they was cut in two pieces.
So please tell me which item fit with big printer. Mine is a cr10, i can print 300x300x400 piece. I don't need the smaller.
Thanks in advance

If you have a big printer you can print:

wing middle 220 (1 time),
wing left right 220 (2 times
fuselage front 202
fuselage back 190

OK thanks. And for ailerons ?

I recommend to print the intended parts.
You could try to scale up the aileron base to z 200% in slicer.
Then the rudder horn will be 2 times thicker and if you print in spiral vase you will have an open end on top.
In this case I had to make some changes.

Hi! Impressive design, although I'm struggling with the 3d printing of the wing. If I use 0% infill (hollow) the top layer would just fall . How do you make the top of each wing piece wihout infill nor support?

You say the top layer "would" fall in.
Does it mean you didn't try it?
This is simple bridging. Make sure to print first outline then infill. Enable auto cooling to cool the bridge.

It definitively falls. Those bridges are 18mm long, no way my printer can do it without support or infill. Anything I tried to change the overall weight of the wing goes over 300gr. Can anybody share their Cura settings for this print? Anybody tried printing this on HIPS that seems to have a much lower weight? Any help will be much appreciated.

printed one, weighted about 650 grams. The thing dropped like a brick.

"wytti" flown his first one perfectly with even 680 grams, but he is a very experienced pilot.
See here https://www.thingiverse.com/make:180914
The total weight should be about 540 grams.
My wing weighs 270 grams incl. servos.
How thick did you print the wing?
Perhaps the engine was too weak?
Can you share pictures or upload a Make?

Speedy "Red Mini Wing" RC Plane
by wytti

1 perimeter layer height 0.3 extrusion width .53 like said in the description.

Width 0.53 is for the fuselage, but only if otherwise would cause infill between inner and outer perimeter (line).
The wing is supposed to print with width 0.5 or even less to prevent travel moves.

What is the weight of your wing?
Have you also checked whether the thin wall is actually printed as thin as you have set it?

I havent. Can retry to make that I suppose. But ill need to buy some new carbon rods for that. Will do in a few weeks as i'm going on vacation tomorrow

im looking at something to fly for my first ever rc plane. any suggestion what would be easy to fly?

3d printed of course.

I started with this one. Its a nice and slow flying airplane. https://www.horizonhobby.com/super-cub-s-rtf-w-dxe-hbz8100e

Printed planes, especially flying wings, are for advanced pilots only.
A slow foam glider is recommended for beginners.

Hello, Which glue do You use for pla?

You only need to glue the fuselage.
I prefer 2 component epoxy to have more time for aligning.
The best is superglue.

Thanks, i'll try loctite 401.
Do you speak french ?

Unfortunately, my French is only enough to communicate little, but not to express myself technically.
I recommend https://www.deepl.com/translator.
It translates very well German/English. Maybe also French/English

No problem, we'll do it in english.
I don't understand about the wings files.
There's wing110 ,wing middle 110, wing middle 110 centered.
I should print all files ?
It's 220+110 or one 110 or one 220 lenght ?
I print the wing in vase mode, is it correct ? Unfill must be 0% ?
Then which material will i need to assemble the plane ? Fiber rod ?
Do you have more photo to assemble it easyly ?

Which parts you take depends on how high you can print.
There are 2 versions
wing middle 220 (1 time),
wing left right 220 (2 times)
version 2:
wing middle left 110 centered (1 time)
wing middle right 110 centered (1 time)
wing left right 110 (4 times)

In spiral vase you can print only:
wing servo
aileron base
aileron end
aileron interface
See my print settings in Instructions

The wings need top layer but his is not possible in spiral vase. This can do only S3D but top layer are not usable.

For assemble the wing I recommend carbon tubes.

Beatiful design, unfortunately I did not find instructions for the assambly jajajajajaja, I hope I can print this on my Monoprice Mini V1 which is 120x120x120


No problem, your printer is big enough, rotate the wing parts 45°.
You don't need instruktions for assembly. Just print and you will see how parts come together.
If you are unsure don't hesitate to ask.

Comments deleted.

The Mini Wing was my first plane out of the 3D printer.
I've used two segments in the wing more and have 1000mm wingspan.
Total weight, flight-finished with 3S 1400mAh exactly 600 grams.
Only one should be avoided! To print the areas or rudders in black.
They are forgiven in the sun.
I had an engine left over from my HobbyKing Rad-Jet
I did not screw it in the hull but on the outside of the fuselage.
Now fits the 1400 Lipos in the trunk.
He flies very fast and surprisingly economical. Seven minutes runtime set and flown.
When loading only 720mah have been loaded.
Yes, I am absolutely convinced of the Mini Wing. He's really fun.

Great! Only 600 grams for wingspan 1000mm and with 1400mAh lipo!
That makes a wing load of 37,5 g/dm2.
I am glad you like it and you have fun.
And of course, you may use black PLA at most for the fuselage. Even though, you must allways take care of the sun.

Can you upload a "Make" and share some pictures and maybe a video?

Der mini Wing war mein erstes Flugzeug aus dem 3D Drucker.
Ich habe zwei Segmente in der Tragfläche mehr verwendet und habe 1000mm Spannweite.
Gesamtgewicht, Flug-fertig mit 3S 1400mah genau 600 Gramm.
Nur eines sollte man vermeiden! Die Flächen oder Ruder in schwarz zu drucken.
Diese verziehen sich in der Sonne.
Ich hatte noch einen Motor aus meinem Rad-Jet von HobbyKing übrig.
Den habe ich nicht im Rumpf sondern außen auf den Rumpf geschraubt.
Da durch passen die 1400er Lipos in den Rumpf.
Er fliegt sehr schnell und erstaunlich sparsam. Sieben Minuten Laufzeit eingestellt und geflogen.
Beim Laden konnten nur 720mah eingeladen werde.
Ja ich bin absolut von dem mini Wing überzeugt. Der macht wirklich jede menge Spaß.

Wo kauft ihr die Carbon Rohre ein? Ich finde die momentan nur beim Conrad wo die ja nicht gerade günstig sind.
Beziehungsweise ist es möglich, GFK Vollstäbe alternativ zu verwenden?
Lg Andi

Hallo Andi,
Carbonrohre sind nicht gerade billig, ich kaufe sie gelegentlich im Bastelladen. Ansonst kannst du mal bei Ebay googeln.
Der Nachteil bei Vollstäbe ist nicht nur das Gewicht, du kannst da auch keine Schnur durchziehen, um die Flügelsegmente zusammen zu halten.
Das ist ja der große Vorteil bei diesem System: Man braucht die Flügelsegmente nicht zu verleimen, einfach Schnur durch, spannen, und außen mit Lüsterklemmen sichern.
Bei diesem Modell habe ich allerdings in die Rohre außen M3 geschnitten und mit Nylonschrauben gesichert.
Die Teile sind auch schnell mal ausgetauscht - nicht nur bei Bruch, auch wenn man mal eine andere Farbzusammenstellung wünscht.
Auch kannst du die Carbonrohre wieder anderweitig verwenden. Ist auf jeden Fall eine gute Investition.
Grüße Michael

Das mit der Schnur ist eine gute Idee.
Meine Vermutung ist allerdings dass bei meinen Flugerfahrungen die Carbonrohre nicht überleben werden :D ...
Bei Ebay sind die auch nicht gerade billig - vermutlich wegen der Abmessungen.
Sollte ich einen guten Lieferanten finden werde ich es posten.

Danke übrigens für das großartige Modell!

Wenn du wenig Flugerfahrung hast, empfehle ich dir wärmstens, das Modell von einem Erfahrenen einfliegen zu lassen. Möglichst jemand der auch Nuris fliegt. Brettnurflügel reagieren besonders sensibel. Es wäre sehr schade um das Modell und die Arbeit.
Mit dem kann man im Schleppflug sogar erstaunlich langsam landen.
Ansonsten rumdüsen - ein richtiges Spaßbrett für überall dabei.

Moin Moin, großartiges Model.
Gibt es eine Auflistung welche Teile verbaut wurden wie z.B. Motor, servos, Empfänger etc...?

Schau mal unter "Specifications".

what is suppused to go into the holes on the two fuselage parts under the wing? Screws? Nothing but glue? Carbon Rods?

The grooves are for wiring the servos.


What is the maximum weight of this plane (Take off weight)?

My plane weighs
wing 270g + fuselaget 270g = overall weight 540 grams.
"wytti" flew it even with 680 grams, but he is a very experienced pilot.
The less, the better.

Does it wing 270g + fuselage 270g included electronics?
I have my plane weight 645g included electronics.
Oh, and my CG little bit forward from 28mm, about 26mm. Battery I put it as much as possible I positioned at the back, touching the 4mm carbon fiber rod.
My motor 80g, lipo 78g and esc 38g, the fuse and wing not that much weight. Roughly 400g (both) of print weight.

Congrats for maiden!
I hope you took some photographs BEFORE flying it.
Can you share them publishing a "Make"?
I am glad you like it.

Yes, 540g included electronics.
Your print weight is about 80g more than mine.
Your motor weighs about 25g more than mine. This is the reason why you have to position the lipo more to back.
CG on 26mm will make it a bit nose heavy but should go.

It flies! Flew great, I'm trying to glide but always nose down, front heavy I think. I will print again (with lower weight for sure) if my current plane damage into pieces. I flew it with 1100kv motor, 3s 800mah, 30A esc and 10x6 prop, with that setup it fly fast! I crashed 3 times though but CA glue is my friend.
Next searching for low weight motor.

I made one with a 38" span. It flew good except the wing unexpectedly folded. it may have a glue joint loosen exposing the spars to 100% of the stress.

If you make the wing larger consider a larger vertical stabilizer.

IIRC I used two layers of pla for the fuselage.You might consider more print material in the fuselage on your next one.

since the material is more flexible be careful with the elastic bands deforming and tearing the trailing edge of the wing. I would advise that you don't assemble the wing to the fuselage until you are actually going to fly it.

I succesfully printed out the plane in pure nylon. Not flown yet. As you suggested i printed with 1 wall thickness. I also managed to get the fuselage 1 wall layer thick. I added a similar carbon fyber rod inside the fuselage. From the motor mount to the rear. Nylon is super strong. But with one layer it is flexible. So the entire fuselage may wobble a bit. I have to maybe add another fyber rod.
Total weight of wings, fuselage and fin is without gear +- 240 grams. Seems to be alright.
Now i am wondering of adding a 10cm more wing at each side. Don't you think that increases glide ratio quite a bit?

I am not quiet sure what you mean saying 1 wall.
The wing wall thickness is 0,5 mm (1 perimeter/1 line)
The fuselage wall is 1 mm (2 perimeter/ 2 lines each 0,5 mm)
I would extend the wing span to 1 m at the most. Then you already need longer carbon tubes and you have to enlarge the elevons as well.
It will also increase the weight and may need a stronger motor.

Right was not clear from my side.
I printed the fuselage in .5 wall thickness, 1 perimeter. Which nylon it is still extremely tough. Only a bit flexible. Thats why i added a carbon rod inside the fuselage on the bottom. (Changed the model slightly).
The wings are also 0.5 with 1 perimeter. Weight of one 220mm nylon part is 30 grams. With petg it is 40 grams. With ABS 44. Did not test it with PLA.
Thanks for your view on the wing size. I ll stick with the current design first.

Hi . why is it that the front mounting part is slightly offset? Is that to compensate for propellor direction and pull?

Look at "Specification"
motor camber: -3°
side pull: 2° right

Hey! This looks really nice. Just wondering, what type of filament did you use? It would need t be very light correct? Also, what electronics and hardware are necessary? I am not familiar with how RC planes work. Also, do you need custom propellors? The ones you use don't look 3d printed.

Sorry, but if you are not familiar how RC planes work, don't touch it!

There is not only the risk of exploding the battery. If the parts are not well printed the plane can crash uncontrolled with even life-threatening injuries!

BTW, this plane ist not for bginners.

You don't need to scale.
Just rotate to 45°

just a question.
I want to print out the entire thing in nylon to make it super strong.
I started with 'wing_end_left' to see how it comes out with your recommended settings (2 top/bottom layer, 0.5 wall thickness. 2 walls)
it came out a bit too weak, so i increased the number of walls to 4. now it is extremely strong. But of course the weight increases as well.
Now i would like to know how many grams your 'wing_end_left' is. ABS/PLA does not matter. Just interested in the weight so i know its worth continuing the nylon print :)

I recommended: 1 perimeter, 2 bottom layer, 2 top layer, hollow
That means 1 wall.
If you need more the one wall it will be far to heavy.

My 3d printer is 5mm short horazontally can I scale it?

What size is your print area?

Have you thought about modifying it to be a pusher with the motor at the rear to accommodate FPV in the front?

A straight flying wing has its CG far forwards. If you load the rear fuselage with a motor you must extend the fuselage on front.
Additional are winglets needed. All this will make the plane even heavier. Furthermore it will look rather shapelessly.

As it is now it has optimized flight characteristics, this is most important.
But you can mount an fpv cam onto the wing as Jorge did:

What size print bed do you need?

You need 125 x 125 mm
The height should be 110 mm

Awesome plane! I'm almost finished printing but have a question. How much infill are you using in the fuselage? I've printed with 0% and the sides are not bonding together. Thank you in advance for any help!


Sorry, I now supplemented the print settings.
Use 2 perimeters.
The fuselage should have infill, 20% is sufficient.
The extrusion width must be thick enough to prevent printing infill between the two perimeters of the 1mm hull. You must try out and check it in the preview.
I had to set the width to 0.53mm.

Cura and Slic3r have each their benefits but I can't see they would differ in print quality. All depends on the settings.
But no matter which slicer I use, I always check the gcode in the preview of the Repetier Host.
There you can check very detailed every move of the print.
Go to "Edit G-Code"
Select "Show Single Layer"
Go to the layer you want to check and select "Last Layer"
It brings you to the last line of this layer.
Now you can go step by step backwards by using the up arrow key. Every move will light up now.
To see it better select a light color for "Selected Filament" (Confic - Preferences - Filament)
Note: you can only see the movements on the selected layer.
Repetier Host has Cura and Slic3r integrated: https://www.repetier.com/

Thank you very much, I'll try those settings. I was running single wall like the wings, so that's probably my problem. I'm running Slic3r and it limits you on the preview. It doesn't show the exact path, only what the filament looks like in the structure. But I tend to get more consistent prints running it over Cura and Matter Control.

is there a recommended prop that doesn't fold?

For all my planes I will never recommend an unfolding prop - unless you want to crash it when landing...

There should be no problem to print it.
But for flying you should have experienced pilots - like I have ;-)

Thank you. Also do you think as a beginner I could fly this plane, and build it?

I really want to print this plane but i can't find the instructions on the electronic assembly

Look at "Specifications".

where are the instructions!!!!

A very good design Sir. I have almost researched about each and every plane on thingiverse and found out that the most fastest to print and easy to produce was yours. However, the files have cluttered up and would ask you to please sort them and mention which files are for complete printing and which are sliced. Thank You

I must admit that it is a bit confusing, mainly for a beginner.
I sorted the wing parts so they are together now.

The number which is attached to the filename is always the size of the bigger parts. Because the parts are to print vertically, it is the height your printer must print.
The wingspan is 794 mm.
You need:
6 parts each 110 mm
plus 2 servo segments each 37 mm
plus 2 wing ends each 30 mm.
So you can take all parts, except the 220 ones.
Regarding the middle sections. You can choose whether you want the wing to be centered or not.

The entire fuselage measures 392 mm.
If you can enlarge your print height by 2 mm (maybe moving z-endstop) you only need:
fuselage front 202 and fuselage back 190.
Otherwise you must take fuselage front 1 and 2 instead of fuselage front 202.

I hope it helps you to start, otherwise don't hesitate to ask.

Sir, I cant find an inrunner motor to go with the design in my country. Any way around?

Maybe you can find something similar like Cobra 2208-26 1550kV motor and take a 2S lipo like "jorgecam" did. http://www.thingiverse.com/make:334105

Speedy "Red Mini Wing" RC Plane

I must admit that it is a bit confusing, mainly for a beginner.
I sorted the wing parts so they are together now.

The number which is attached to the filename is always the size of the bigger parts. Because the parts are to print vertically, it is the height your printer must print.
The wing span is 794 mm.
You need:
6 parts each 110 mm
plus 2 servo segments each 37 mm
plus 2 wing ends each 30 mm.
So you can take all parts, except the 220 ones.
Regarding the middle sections. You can choose whether you want the wing to be centered or not.

The entire fuselage measures 392 mm.
If you can enlarge your print height by 2 mm (maybe moving z-endstop) you only need:
fuselage front 202 and fuselage back 190.
Otherwise you must take fuselage front 1 and 2 instead of fuselage front 202.

I hope it helps you to start, otherwise don't hesitate to ask.

It depends on how high you can print. What is the highest your printer is able to print?

200mm for the z axis

Hi Jorge
I use two 4mm carbon tubes, 800mm long.
On the ends I cut M3 inside. You must do this very careful in several steps and make them stable with glue inside.
To prevent breaking the tube, cutting the thread, I pulled over a printed tightly fitting bushing, which I can upload.
Besides my other planes it was flying at the InterEx 2016 in Versiox/Geneva
They were very enthusiastic about of the speed which is possible.
But it is also posssible to land it slowly.
Anyway, I hope you are a experienced pilot ;-)

Hi Jorge,
High turning motors are not suitable for mounting inside a fuselage.
Whatever combination you choose, the motor temperature should not go far over 50°. And the motor thrust should reach at least 450 grams.

Thanks wersy.

I started printing the front fuselage to do some motor tests. I want to use a 3.800 KV motor with a 12A ESC from a crashed 250 sized helicopter.

The thing is that I tested it in the fuselage with a 9x6.5 propeller and the motor and ESC overheat in a few seconds.

I really would like to reuse this motor. Do I have any chance? Perhaps with a lower length and pitch propeller? How low do you thing we can go with the propeller for this plane?


hi wersy. Great work !! and thanks for sharing.

I am starting printing and I have a question. What to you use to join the wind sections, two carbon fiber rods? Solid or hollow? How to you fix them ?


Erst mal danke für den Super Flieger, nun meine Frage, druckt Ihr die Flügel nur Hohl oder im Vase mode?

Bei meinem ist ein Hacker A20- 12xl mit 10x5 prop drin :D


Spiral Vase Mode wäre ideal, nur kann man dann (ausser mit S3D) keine Decklayer drucken.
Ich habe normal hohl gedruckt.

Wie hast du denn DEN Motor reingekriegt?
Der geht nicht durch die Montageöffnung.
Die Befestigungslöcher sind um 45° gedreht.
Wie hast du die Motorkabel verlegt?
Hoffentlich schmilzt der Motor nicht durch den engen Rumpf ;-) So ein Drum habe ich noch nicht einmal in meinem 2 Meter Brett drin.

Kannst du mal ein paar Fotos als “MAKE” zeigen?

Also ich habe alle flügel im vase mode gedruckt

Howdy Friend,
I am in the process of printing this plane. I am not sure about the motor though. My quads run on outrunners...this model looks like the motor is supposed to be on the inside of the plane though. Can you recommend an affordable motor/esc combo for this project?
Thank you in advance for your time,

In "Summary" I listet all components.
motor: Turnigy 2632 Brushless Motor 1000kv - fits perfectly
ESC: HobbyKing YEP 30A (2~4S) SBEC Brushless Speed Controller - but you can take every other with similar values.

Howdy Wersy,
Thanks for responding. Its odd but that motor is listed in the outrunner section.
Is it for sure an inrunner?

It is an outrunner and it supposed to be one.

Apologies. On the fuselage I see that the holes are countersunk in the opposite direction of how I would bolt up the motor. Hence my confusion. Maybe I should look up some build videos on this if any exist :-)
I have several of these.
But they bolt in from the bottom....the opposite direction of the countersinks on the front of the fuselage. If I were to bolt these in the way the countersinks are facing (toward the aft of the plane) then the shaft would be pointed toward the back of the plane...if that makes any sense. So I assumed this build was for an inrunner.....

No problem :-)
Don't hesitate to ask if you have further questions.


Good job!

I have a question, can fly they airplane with a 2600kv brushless motor?

Thank you!

I am afraid, the cooling openings are not enough to keep the motor in temperature.
You could test it by printing only the front part of the fuselage and try out.

Erstmal vielen dank fürs teilen des modells
Ich bin begeistert seit einem Jahr dabei es zu drucken und bekomme regelmäßig einen Dämpfer

Nutze repetier und slic3r

Mein Problem ... das servo insert passt nicht in den servo flügelteil

Die teile sehen nach dem slice schon anders aus als in der stl nach dem druck sehen sie aus wie im slice passen aber nicht zusammen

Hat jemand eine Idee was ich falsch mache?

Ohne Fotos bzw. Screenshots kann man nichts dazu sagen.
Stelle die Frage einfach mal im RepRap-Forum:

Beautiful plane!!

I am considering building your design and would like to know if a battery with slightly larger dimensions would fit the battery bay? What would be reasonable dimensions that could be used?

The primary reason for asking this is that I have given up on ordering batteries from the Hobby King International warehouse and do not have this exact battery. I have sourced a battery that is 20X35X78mm 96g verses the specified Hobby King battery which is 20x25x72mm 69g. I do realize the balance may need adjustment for this heavier battery.

Thank you for sharing this terrific design! I hope to build it!! :)

I am sorry, but your battery will not fit into this slim fuselage.
I wouldn't take any battery which is bigger. You could print the hull and try yourself.


Perhaps I will print the hull to try. Thanks!!

Hi Wersy

Erstmal Danke für dieses coole Modell!
Ich drucke es gerade und montiere bereits die ersten Teile.

Was mir aber noch nicht klar ist: Wo kommen die Teile "aileron-interface" , "wing-servo-cover" und "wing-end-stop" hin?

ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh: Kann es sein das ich die nicht brauche, weil ich aus unerklärlichen gründen alle teile geschlossen gedruckt habe?

Das end-stop hat sich geklärt: mich hat verwundert das keine Löcher im Rumpf waren. habs jetzt unten gefunden: anlegen und selber bohren! :-)

Genau, dann geht es auch ohne.
Es ist natürlich praktisch, wenn man die Innenlaschen hat, um die Querruder-Teile fluchtend und formschlüssig (verdrehsicher) miteinander zu verbinden.


War grad das erste Mal draußen mit dem Fleiger. Aber nach 2 Metern lag er immer auf der Nase.

Ich habe ein Startgewicht von 835gr. , einen Brushless "GoolRC 2430 7200KV" an nem 2Cell LiPo.
Als Propeller hab ich einen Graupner 15-8.
Der Schwerpunkt liegt bei 1/4 der Tragfläche (von Propellerseite gesehen).

Zum Start hab ich Vollgas gegen, die klappen leicht nach unten gestellt und ihn schräg nach oben geschmissen.

Woran liegts?

  • zu schwer?
  • zu wenig Power?
  • Falsche Gewichtsverteilung?

Oh je, ist der Flieger überhaupt noch heil?
Das Startgewicht ist viel zu hoch, meiner wiegt 540 g (Tragfläche: 270 g + Rumpf 270 g). Mehr als 600 g sollte er nicht wiegen.
Wo kommt das Gewicht her?

Den Motor kann ich nicht beurteilen, man müsste zumindest die Leistung (Watt) kennen.
7200 U/V ist selbst bei 2S hoch. Da der Motor nicht direkt durch den Propeller gekühlt wird, dürfte der heiß laufen.
Der Motor sollte bei 600 g Startgewicht wenigstens 500 Standschub leisten.

Ist der Propeller 15” groß mit 8” Steigung? Dann ist der viel zu groß!

Der Schwerpunkt liegt bei 1/4 Flächentiefe zu weit hinten. Er soll bei 27 mm liegen (s. Specifications)

Da ein Nurflügler kein Höhenleitwerk besitz, wirken die Querruder anders.
Werden sie nach unten gestellt, wird kein Auftrieb erzeugt. Im Gegenteil, es wird ein negatives Drehmoment erzeugt, es fliegt dann nach unten.
Dieses Modell reagiert sensibel auf Ruderausschläge und ist mit geschätzten 80 bis 100 km/h schnell unterwegs. Da empfiehlt es sich einen erfahrenen Piloten für den Erstflug zu bitten.

Hallo, ich hätte da mal ne frage würde mir den gerne drucken nur bin ich mir grad etwas unsicher.

Werden alle hochgeladenen dateien benötigt? werden irgendwelche teile doppelt benötigt?

Ps.: wenn ich das richtig gelesen hab hast du 2 versionen (eine für kleinere drucker) hochgeladen. hab lediglich ne bauhöhe von 150mm

Mit kleinerem Drucker braucht man nur die 110 mm langen Tragflächenteile.
Beim Rumpf nur die 4 kürzeren Abschnitte und die 2 Verbindungslaschen.(interface).
Viel Spaß beim Drucken :-)

Ich denke ich blicke so langsam durch den dschungel der dateien durch :) hab gestern mal angefangen den rumpf zu drucken sieht bombig aus und passgenauigkeit is spitze :)

Hallo Tarzan ;-)
Danke, ich freue mich, dass es dir gefällt.

hätte da mal ne frage

  1. was für carbonrohre hast du für die Tragflächen verbaut?
  2. wie wird das ruder befestigt nur verkleben?
  3. was für stange nehme ich am besten für die querruder?
  4. ich hab jetzt wing middle und die wing servos fertig nun brauche ich 4x wing-left-right-110 und danach die wing_end?

P.s. hab mir jetzt schon mal nen 4s setting errechnet damit ich meine Turnigy Bolt 4s nehmen kann :)

  1. Die Tragfläche wird mit 4 mm Carbonrohr zusammengesteckt.
  2. Die 3 Ruderteile werden miteinander verleimt.
  3. Für die Ruderachse wird 2 mm Carbonrohr verwendet, dass über die ganze Länge gesteckt wird.
  4. Ja, das war's schon.
    Schaue auch mal die Kommentare von "puhlho" an (31.Sept.-2..Okt.) Da findest du weitere Antworten.

sry dass ich nochmal nerve :) ich meinte wie das "seitenruder" befestigt wird :) teile sind alle gedruckt, motor hab ich einen der 1,5kg schub bringt bei meinen 4s, jetzt heißts nur noch carbon und servos organisieren :)

1,5 kg Schub und 4S?!
Ich dachte du machst Spaß. Du baust doch nicht das 2m-Brett, das kommt mit 1 kg Schub und 3S aus.
Was für einen Motor und Lipo willst du denn hineinquetschen ;-)

Ein Nurflügler hat kein Seitenruder, du meinst sicher das Seitenleitwerk.
Schau, was ich am 1.10. dem "puhlbo" geantwortet habe:
"Wenn die Steckung stramm genug ist, braucht man das Leitwerk nur stecken.
Die vordere Steckung ist nur mit dem Rumpf verleimt. Die hintere, durchgehende Steckung ist mit dem Leitwerk verleimt. Ich habe allerdings ein Messingdraht in das 2 mm Carbonrohr geklebt, und das 10 mm überstehende Ende unten am Rumpf umgebogen."

Habe hier 2 Kleinigkeiten verändert bzw. ergänzt und hochgeladen.

1x einen kleinen Griff für die Kabinenhaube da ich diese mit Magneten befestigt habe und sie sonst schwer zu öffnen ist:

und weiters ein vergrößerter Wing_End_Stop der die Fläche auch von oben niederhält, sodass keine Gummiringe nötig sein sollten. (Noch nicht getestet!)

Canopy Handle for Speedy Red Mini Wing by Wersy
by puhlbo
Wing Fixation Clip for Speedy Red Mini Wing by Wersy
by puhlbo

Den Magnetverschluss finde ich gut!
Bei der Halterung habe ich Bauchschmerzen. Was beim konventionellen Modellbau gang und gebe ist, scheint mir bei gedruckten Teilen riskant, besonders wenn sie hohl sind.
Durch die kleine, schmale Druckplatte entsteht eine hohe Flaechenpressung und damit eine entsprechend hohe Kerbwirkung an den Seiten, die zum Einreissen der Tragflaeche fuehren kann.
Das Gewindeloch ist mit 1 mm sehr kurz. Da waere es günstiger, den Anschlag zu verleimen, um die Gewindetiefe zu erhöhen, und nur die Deckplatte zu verschrauben.

Auch wenn Gummibaender potthaesslich sind, sie uebertragen aber die Belastung ueber die gesamte Flaechentiefe.
In der Luft sieht man die Gummis nicht ;-)

Sorry aber jetzt hab ich noch eine Frage - wie befestigt ihr das Seitenleitwerk? Danke im Voraus!

Wenn die Steckung stramm genug ist, braucht man das Leitwerk nur stecken.
Die vordere Steckung ist nur mit dem Rumpf verleimt. Die hintere, durchgehende Steckung ist mit dem Leitwerk verleimt. Ich habe allerdings ein Messingdraht in das 2 mm Carbonrohr geklebt, und das 10 mm überstehende Ende unten am Rumpf umgebogen.

Danke, ich hab jetzt einen 2mm CFK Stab genommen und durch Rumpf und Leitwerk geschoben, an den beiden Enden gekürzt und verklebt. In das hintere Loch des Leitwerks hab ich eine kleine Schraube gedreht - hält gut so.

Hab jetzt alle Teile gedruckt, beginne heute noch mit dem Aufbau - soll am Mittwoch fliegen und dann drucke ich den nächst größeren aus deiner Reihe :)

Übrigens wirklich super gemacht, einfach zu drucken und alles wunderbar durchdacht!

Danke für das Lob.
Mir kam es darauf an, möglichst stabile Teile zu erhalten, die mit auch einfachsten Druckern zu drucken sind.
Außerdem sollten die Teile leicht austauschbar sein.
Dieser Flieger ist giftig und selbst bei Halbgas noch flott unterwegs. Wie wir jetzt auf der InterEx 2016 festgestellt haben, kann man ihn aber auch recht langsam mit Schleppgas und Höhenruder landen.
Hier einige Bilder von der InterEx 2016: http://jivaro-models.org/interex_2016/index.html
Habe vor Ort auch gedruckt ;-)
Wenn Du diesen fliegen kannst, wirst Du von dem Swept Wing noch mehr begeistert sein: langsamer und perfektes Stallverhalten.

Werde ich bestimmt testen danke, welchen empfiehlst du? Sind Swept Wing 1 und 2 verschiedene Fluggeräte oder ist der 2er eine verbesserte Version?

Die Fläche beim 2er ist mehr als doppelt so groß, hat etwas weniger Streckung und Verwindung (s. Daten). Ist aufwändiger zu drucken. Fliegt genau so gut.

Super, denke dann werde ich den großen als nächstes machen. Der Speedy Red Wing ist jetzt erstmal bereit fürn Erstflug! Hat mächtig Schub mit dem 1200kV Motor an Aeronaut 9x6... bin gespannt wie das geht.

Wie hast du das beim großen jetzt gelöst, dass er sich nicht mehr in der Luft zerlegt wie im Video?

Beim großen werde ich alle Teile einer Flügelhälfte miteiander verkleben. Nur die Mittelsteckung soll lose bleiben (s. neues Bild) http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1666561
Helmut überlegt sich eine andere Lösung.

Speedy "Red Swept Wing 2" RC
by wersy

Tolles Modell, ich bin mit dem Drucken der Teile fast fertig!
Wie habt ihr die Flächenteile zusammengefüg? Alles verklebt? Oder nur aufgefädelt auf CFK Rohre und dann irgendwie fixiert sodass man die Fläche wieder zerlegen könnte?

Danke im Voraus!

Die Tragflächenteile sind nur gesteckt. An den Enden die Rohre innen mit Epoxy mehrmals bestreichen bis sich M3 Innengewinde schneiden lässt. Beim Gewindeschneiden die Rohrenden außen zusammenpressen damit sie nicht aufreißen. Z.B. mit gedrucktem Klötzchen mit engem (evtl. aufgeriebenen) Loch.
Am besten, in mehreren Gängen abwechselnd dünn beschichten und vorsichtig Gewinde schneiden, bis ein stabiles Gewinde entsteht, das nicht ausreißt. Lange Schrauben verwenden: M3 x 20 mm.

Und kann mir jemand verraten wofür "Wing_End_Stop" gedacht ist?

Ich verrate es Dir: Damit fixierst Du die Tragfläche in Längsachse.
End_Stop an Hinterkante Tragfläche ranschieben, 1,5 mm Löcher abbohren, und End_Stop mit M2 Senkkopfschrauben an Rumpf befestigen.

aaaah - alles klar, danke!

was verwendest du als steckungsrohre? ich hab jetzt mal CFK genommen. Und wie werden die einzelnen Flächenteile miteinander verbunden? Hast du alles verklebt oder bleibt die Fläche zerlegbar?

Ja, auf Carbonrohre nur gesteckt und außen mit M3 Nylonschrauben verspannt.

Danke Dir, werd ich so mal versuchen!

Hab jetzt alle Flächenteile fertig. was mach ich denn mit dem "Aileron-Interface" ?

ah ich glaub ich habs.... aileron_interface dienen als "steckverbindungen" zwischen den Querruder-Teilen?

Genaauu! Und nimm die Ruderachse zum Fluchten.
Aber aufpassen, nicht mit festkleben lassen. Die soll möglichst lose bleiben, um die Ruder notfalls leichter austauschen zu können.


I´m starting to print this model right now but there is a question:

when the readme says "3 bottom layers" but does not say anything about top layers - do i use "0" top layers?


In spiral vase mode, no slicer is able to print top layer, except Simplify 3D.
To close the top of the servo sections, just use the servo cover.

i know - i use s3d - but this doesnt answer my question.
can you tell me how to print parts, where there are no instructions about top-layers?

thank you!


-Where can i find the white wing parts?
-for what do i use the rudder appendix?


Jasper (NL)

The white parts are the wing_left_right and the wing_servo_right (left)
The rudder apendix enlarges the rudder (elevon) between the rudder horn and the middle wing.
BTW, this is not a plane for beginners.
So if you have not enough experience piloting fast planes you should ask somebody who has ;-)

...Thank u for sharing...

I am glad you like it

hi Wersy
I like this model a lot and I`m printig the last parts at the moment.
Now I have a question about the ruder setup. What are your setings?
vielen Dank im Voraus.

Elevator: +- 5,5 mm, expo 60%
Aileron +- 9,5 mm, expo 60%

Mir wurde versichert, das Ding ist schnell unterwegs, selbst noch bei Halbgas...
Viel Glück!

Great! What is the airfoil?

The same as on the big ones: Clark YS

Mein nächstes Projekt :D

Fertig.......hab es ine Made gepostet

Prima, sieht wirklich toll aus. Mit was hast Du geklebt?

Größtenteils min 5 Min Epoxy.....

Erstmal danke für den super Flieger....mein Prusa I3 arbeitet schon.

Ich drucke mit PLA.....bin zwar Modellbauer, aber womit klebt man PLA.

Danke und Gruß Dirk

Man kann PLA sehr gut mit einem Kleber aus dem Baumarkt kleben und zwar:
Marley Spezialkleber für Dachrinnensysteme.
Die Tube enthält 100 Gramm des Klebers ist also so groß wie eine Zahnpaststube und der Kleber hält bombenfest.
Anwendung , Kleber auftragen , ca 2 Minuten festhalten Reste sofort entfernen und schon hält das Ding.
Nach ca 1,5 Stunden ist die Klebestelle nicht mehr zu lösen. Überstehende Kleberrest mit Feile entfernen.
Der Kleber Ist Wasser und wärmefest, na klar bei Dachrinnen!

LG Georgio

Danke, ich freue mich, dass er Dir gefällt.
Ich bevorzuge Epoxykleber z.B. Uhu Endfest 300. Er löst aber nicht an, dafür bekommt man gebrochene Teile jedoch notfalls wieder abgeschält.
Stumpf aufeinander geklebte Teile haften sehr schlecht. Bei genügend Überlappungsfläche, wie z.B. die verschraubten Zargen beim Rumpf, oder (falls der Rumpf vorn und hinten geteilt werden muss) die Verbindungslaschen innen, entsteht ausreichende Haftung. Da wirkt Epoxy als Füller zwischen den Druckriefen.
Die beiden Nachbauten von meinem Motorsegler wurden nur mit Sekundenkleber verklebt. Der hält besser, man muss sich jedoch etwas beeilen.
Richtig anlösen tut nur Dichormethan. Das ist aber mit großer Vorsicht anzuwenden und verflüchtigt sich so schnell, dass man es nicht auftragen kann. Man kann es nur aus einer dünnen Kanüle vorsichtig in einen Spalt fließen lassen und hoffen, dass es sich durch die Kappilarwirkung weit genug verteilt.

Falls die Servos nicht passen, empfehle ich Dir einen abgespekten Servoeinsatz, den ich zusammen mit "Skorpio" entwickelt habe. Die eine Version hat zwei Lagerböcke, auf denen man den Servo auch festschrauben kann. Um den Einsatz auf den Servo anzupassen braucht man nur OpenSCAD zu installieren und dort die Datei durch Eingabe von Servo-Dicke, -Breite, -Lochabstand, -Achsabstand und Armhöhe anzupassen und als stl zu exportieren. Man kan auch den Lochdurchmesser in den Lagerböcken und die Länge des Schlitzes verändern. Ich kann das aber auch gerne für Dich tun und hochladen.
Ich würde mich riesig freuen, wenn Du den Flieger auch drucken würdest, dann wären es schon 4 Nachdrucke.

Gruß Michael

Universal servo insert part for Wersy's Speedy "Red Mini Wing"
First Take Off of a fully printed (FDM) sailplane.
by Efeu

Bin schon dabei..rumpf ist fertig.

Super! Musstest Du ihn in 4 Teile drucken?
Noch ein Tipp: Die Spalte an den Schraubenlöchern im Servosegment verschmelzen oft nicht gut genug. Das heißt, sie sind elastisch so dass sich die Schraubenlöcher zu sehr aufweiten können. Am besten, in die Spalte etwas Sekundenkleber laufen lassen.
Aber Vorsicht, erst das Carbonrohr rausnehmen sonst bleibt es für immer drin - wie bei mir ;-)

Hi Wersy!

Thank you for such nice model. I really see engineering in development. For instance how wing built inside.
Currently I'm in progress of wing printing. Fin is printed out.
I have Wanhao Duplicator i3 with 0.4 mm nozzle.
In your comments looks like you have 0.5 mm.
So, I failed with layer 0.3 mm but got sucess with layer 0.2 mm.
Single shell with low speed as 20 mm/sec.

Could you be so kind to split tail part of fuselage? Max size of build area I have is 200x200x180 mm. If you havent time please advise the software to split it. Should fuselage be printed as single shell as well (apart join)? Will it be stiff enough to stay as single piece with dynamic forces in flight?

Could you say size of mount holes for motor? May be I can fit the Turnigy D2826-6 2200 kv. It has 16x19 mm mouning bolt circle.
An idea for further development: split fuselage near to motor mount and design different firewalls for different motors.

Could you also write a little about assembling of the plane? How fin should be fixed to fuselage? Screws, bolts with nuts, carbon rods and glue? What is used as hinges for evevons? 2mm carbon rods? At wing tips on photo I see white dots where spars ends. I checked that 4mm carbon fiber tube fits fine inside but they are black. What do you used in wing assembling?

Thanks for your help in advance!

Hi Scorpio,
I am very glad you like the airplane and that you are going to print it.
Do you print with layer height 0.2mm and width 0.5mm?
What material you use, PLA?

Yes, I will split the tail of the fuselage soon and add a interface for this cut.
The fuselage is not be printed as single shell. I already tried this for the back part but I am afraid it would not be stable enough. There is no need to safe weight, anyway.
The fuselage has a wall thickness of 1mm, that means 2 single shells.

The Turnigy D2826-6 2200kv has the same mounting bolt circle but the outer diameter is too big.
On my other planes I already designed a separate motor mount, but it is in case you need different motor camber and side pull - and easy to exchange after hard landings ;-)
In this case there is no big assortment of motors, the chosen one is ideal.

The fin needs two 2 mm carbon rods. One 140mm (glued to the fin) and one 30mm (glued to the fuselage)
The elevons need one 2 mm carbon rod, 800mm long (not glued)

The wing need two 4mm carbon rods, 800mm long.
On the ends I cut M3 inside. You must do this very careful. To prevent breaking the tube I pulled over a printed tightly fitting bushing, which I can upload.
After the thread cutting I put epoxy glue to the thread. Then cut the thread again. You must do this two times or more if necessary to get a strong thread.
To fasten the wing I used M3 x 20mm nylon screws.

Hi Wersy!

Thanks for info. I'll think what I can do. I have 4 mm carbon tubes and 2 mm rods from Hobbyking.com. All of them are 750 mm long.
Actually I can glue all sections of wing together and insert tube which will be shorter than wingspan only on 50mm or so. So, 25mm per side will be without enforcement. Not critical at all. As alternative idea I can cut head of nylon screw and glue threaded part into carbon tube from both sides and screw nuts on it on wing tips. Screw head in your case will be replaced on nut in my case. I'll think about it when all wing parts will be ready.

About my printing. I use PLA (eSUN) 1.75 mm. Width 0.4mm. Layer 0.2. Cura software (which I use for slicing) gives a worning if I put value 0.5 mm for shell width. With 215/60 degrees temperature I got good result even with single shell of 0.4 mm width. No crackings between layers. With layer 0.3 mm I have cracks. Just FYI. For some parts I had to recalculate number of bottom layers. Needd to remember yours 0.3 and my 0.2. So, maybe it better to provide bottom and top layers in mm than in quantity. For some parts I left just two layers as in your case.

Today I made test split of rear part of fuselage in OpenSCAD software (totally new for me) and got two STL files which I looked carefully in Cura on Layers mode. I realized that with width 0.4 mm fuselage has two shells with "air" between them. I enabled infill 100% and it looks Ok for me. I'll try to print at least one part with this settings and for comparison with width 0.5 mm but with zero infill. But I'm going to print fuselage when wing will be completed.

Currently I can't fit wing_servo_caps on wing_servo parts. Top side between rods not fit, walls meets each other. I'll try to sort it out by small file or sand paper. I'll let you know how it goes. Maybe it will be useful input from user of another printer than yours.

I'll purchase motor which you suggest. PRODUCT ID: T2632-1000 on Hobbyking.com. Correct?
I plan to use Zippy compact 3S 25C 1300 mAh battery. Weight 101 gr. PRODUCT ID: ZC.1300.3S.25. What do you think?

P.S. My Speedy will be blue or blue and black. :)

Hi Scorpio,
You don't need to split the rear part of the fuselage.
I uploaded the files.

Hi again!

Thank you very much! I'll download them now.
You can check my designs here. Maybe something will be interesting for you or gives you some ideas.
More to go as I have a lot of ideas including historic airplane. You plane is provement that is possible and can fly.
This is really new age in RC modelling after balsa and foam. The third generation if you like and you are one of pioneers in it!

Hi Scorpio,
Print settings
Did you really printed the wing with 0.4mm width, I mean did you measured if it is 0.4mm?
If yes, congratulation! The wing will have almost 20% less weight.
I just made a test print of the servo cover, sliced with cura. Though I set 0.4mm width, the single shells for aligning and gluing were printed between 0.7mm and 0.9mm!
This can be the reason that the cover don't fit into the serco part. In this case, either you test by setting less width or better try to slice with Slic3r.

Yes, T2632-1000 is the right one.

The Zippy 1300 mAh is far too big and too heavy.
It won't fit into the fuselage and furthermore you will get a big problem with the CG.
With the recommended 950 mAh lipo you can fly at least 10 minutes.

And yes, take enough blue, it is better visible - the plane is not a very slow one ;-)

Hi, Wersy!

This is to confirm that I have shel measured by digital caliper from Hobbyking. I have 0.42 mm average width. Measured on two different parts of your model in 3-4 different places.

About servo cap fit issue I can say next.
Measurements of height of top "box" on cap (outside). Just at corners.
Front - 5.1 mm
Rear - 5.1 mm

The same places on wing_servo parts (inside)
Front - 4.7 mm
Rear - 4.2 mm

Probably there is kind of temperature deformation due to 0.4 mm shell or sort of PLA.
I think I'll cut top part of servo walls so, that cover will be aligned just by outer perimeter (wing profile).

In my models I do inner part (which should be inserted) on 0.8 mm less then outer part. This is exactly 2 nozzle sizes, 1/2 on each side from center line (coordinates) on each part.

Hi, Wersy!

I'll measure shell when I will find new battery for digital caliper. Old one has died.
I should buy small batteries in this case. Thanks for clarification.

"Not very slow" - what is top, stall and average speed? If it up to 100 km/h it's Ok for me. This is what I approximately reached with first my Bixler. I crashed it several times as it was the first ever my RC plane. Most attractive crash was on speed 70 km/h to big tree. :) Video camera has been damaged and I lost this attractive moment. But I checked autopilot logs after that. This is how I know exact speed. New FPV plane - Bixler2 a little slower. Average my cruise speed is 50-60 km/h. Top about 80. Maybe I can make more but I want to have my plane in one piece. You know.

You can see both of Bixlers as well as another air/water/ground vehicles on my Youtube channel - "Scorpio9999channel". Enjoy!

I am some irritated because I had replied this but it seems deleted.
Well, I can answer your question now because "wytti" has already printed two airplanes and made several tests.
He estimates the maximum speed between 80-100km/h and the minimum speed between 15-20km/h.
He also add winglets which lets it fly "like on rails" ;-)
And I repeat it: thank you for the link to the wonderfull camera flights over botanical and zoologial reserve "Mirgorodsky".

Speedy "Red Mini Wing" RC Plane
by wytti

Hi, Wersy!

No problems for disappeared reply. Sometimes such things happens.
Thank you for speed parameters. Awesome range actually.

I just posted photo of my build. You can see it in makes. I have to wait spare parts for final assembly.

Meanwhile I will think about mount for Mobius camera on top of wing.
As somebody said "If it not recorded on video it wasn't in reality". I want to have videos from air. Maybe side view to see working elevons. Maybe rear view.

Hi Scorpio,
You are absolutely right, this is why I publish my things only if they already were driving, swimming or, of course... flying - on video :-)
And please make also a video from ground, to see the way it flies.
I forgot to mention: The optimize GC is at 33mm.

Hi there Wersy! I've started printing your awesome design but I'm unsure about where some of the parts fit in?
For instance the Fuselage interface front?

Also can you please give me the exact layout of the parts needed though out the wing from left to right? I cant seem to figure out the order of parts.

Thanks in advance.

Hi John,
You need the interface only if you can't print the large parts of the fuselage (front 202, back 190)
The fuselage parts front 1 and front 2 needs the interface to connect both parts.
The interfaces are supposed to put them fifty-fifty in each fuselage part. In this way the parts are aligned and easy to glue.
Before gluing you should mask the edges of the fuselage with tape to keep them clean from glue.
After that, you must cut out the front interface in the range of the opening.
The same has to be done on the back fuselage but I didn't sliced it yet.
If you can't print the large wing parts, the order is as following (from middle to the right side):
wing middle right 110
wing servo right
wing left right 110
wing left right 110
wing end right

Thank you verry much!

Comments deleted.

Hello, I've just started to print your design, I like it a lot. Can you tell me where the center of gravity is ?

We had the CG at 28 mm, that means stability 6%. It could certainly be more, but we didn't tested it yet.

28mm from Leading edge ? just checking

This is amazing. Thanks for sharing!

Thank you, I am glad you like it.

Congrats! And it's really speedy, definitely for the more advanced RC pilot...

Thank you. I know - it's not for me...

Nice one! Will definitely print it. Maybe adding some better name tags like RC plane etc so it gets more popular?
Any chances to add a FPV cam? what would be a good spot?

Cheers from Bavaria,Germany :P

Thank you for the tip.
Yes, you can put a mini cam on it like this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:461044

I was going to do that but unfortunately it didn't worked - the memory card was full, as I noticed later, but it was already to late...

Case for Mini Cam: Mini DVR 808 #16 V3
by wersy