by joestraws, published

vise by joestraws Nov 7, 2015

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vise by joestraws is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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main body is in four parts, glued together.

parts will need to be scaled up and aligned to the print bed surface. the main screw, handle and caps required a brim for support. 3x .25-20 screws also needed.

I also added a main body stl file incase you want to try and print it as a single feature.

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I scaled everything to 1500% and the main screw doesn't fit through the vise body. Would one scale the screw to a smaller size or just force it? I get about a third of a turn into the body and then it is rock solid.

how did you guys use those two rails and the smaller round part idk where they go

That is a very nice looking little vise. only thing I might change is adding a little boss with a slot for a clamping bolt on either side. that way it could be secured to a workbench or a table with T-slots.

I printed this scaled up by 15 times and rotated the X axis 180 at 0.2mm layer height and 5% infill using ABS with 4 bottom 4 top layers with a attatched brim of 3 for the main vice body single piece its strong enough to use for a second hand when soldering or cleaning up 3d printed parts i scale it up turn it upside down then use auto position in Repeater Host .Just make sure you scale all the other bits the same and they will fit perfect is a very useful thing indeed ,thanks Joestraws

If you want you can take a look at the bench VISE for CNC mill with removable and interchangeable caps that I created and published yesterday.

Se vuoi puoi dare un’occhiata anche alla Morsa da banco per fresa CNC con protezioni removibili ed intercambiabili che ho creato e pubblicato ieri.


Morsa da banco per fresa CNC - Bench VISE for CNC mill
by Stebo
Comments deleted.

I needed a small vise to work on electronics, watches etc. I have an XYZ printer so I had to re-adjust the size of the vise as with my software it was too small. The overall size I re-adjusted it to is about 5 inches long and about 2 inches wide. I had an issue with the screw parts handle was too weak, no matter how I laid it out, it kept breaking, so I added a hex nut on the end of the handle. Finally I added rubber tips to the vise clamps to protect circuit boards or watch parts. Works great and actually better than my bench vise as I can easily clamp it to the desktop. Great build and thank you!

i had to resize to 2x on mine

I also want to print this model but have some questions about scaling the threads and compability with screws. Which screw size did you use for the bottom plate and the claw when printing it in twice the original size? Are the original dimensions given in inches or mm?

"(just for demo not actual use)"

Can this be used or not?

It does work, I just wouldn't recommend using a plastic vise for any heavy use at least.. could use it for light duty. This was mainly just a practice project to learn to create a large screw thread.

Hey check out my vice I recently uploaded. This one is cool, but if you want one that is a actually useful, then you may print out mine. Thanks.


Vise (Fully 3d printed)
by jdog13


I really like the design and I used the scalefactors you said (18 and 16) but it didn't work and my screw is now broken.
I think in one axis the screw must be also scaled with 18 because of the size of the thread =/

I still hope that the thread of the main-part isn't broken completly now.

PLEASE update your description of this. So people don't must read the comments to print this!

For mainpart and stuff layer-height of 0.2mm is good. The screw should the printed in 0.1-0.2mm

Brim: Screw, caps, vice handle needs brim.

print positions: I printed the screw vertical. the caps also (best would be the thick part on the bed)

scale factors: depends on print-size.
I printed everything with scale factor 18, except the main screw. The main screw can be printed with factor 16 but for Z-Axis (longest axis of this part) with factor 18.

Heys, thanks for trying out my design.

Depending on the type of 3d printer you have the tolerances that that printer can hold will vary depending on the quality and precision of the parts its built with.

With that being said you should also mention the type of printer you are using for comparison. If you look on my profile i use a Lulzbot Mini which has pretty tight tolerances it can print. The scaling factor i mentioned at .16x instead of .18x is that on shafts that have to fit into a blind of through hole, my printer, needs to have an extra clearance of .02 for inches and .5 tolerance for mm.

The parts do not need brim support on my printer also as my bed adheres to pla very well, but it is good practice to know your 3d printer and how it works and be able to Rotate, scale, and add brim or support material depending on its requirements.

I personally printed the main screw out in a few different sizes to determine which one fits the best, i also had to clean up some of the threads from the printing process as 3d printers do not produce machined type prints (at least not on the level i work with).

I would suggest printing out test pieces and use calipers to determine how well your printer handles tolerances and then be able to apply those findings to your personal print jobs.

How should a screw scaled with 16 fit in a thread that is scaled with 18???
That can't fit.. Just because of that the pitch is totally different then (from the factor).
But maybe you missunderstood me: I flipped the mainscrew up side down and THEN i scaled the Z axis with 18.
For default orientation of your file it should the X-Axis I think. I scaled it in that way that it is little bit longer/higher.

Also it would be helpfull to print the handle in factor 16 too. Otherwise it couldn't fit in the caps and the mainscrew.

To print the main screw vertically could be bad for the stability of it because the layers are from bottom to top.
But it will have a better look and is easier to print. For most stuff it's more than durable enough!

It is about tolerances... when scaling a drawing from auto cad it will export it as a 1:1 unit scale. So when scaling up a part that was drawn in Inches you will have to scale the part up 25.4x to create a 1 to 1 scale model as it was drawn. Knowing your printer as i do mine requires a .02(inch) (.18x - .16x = .02x difference) tolerance to allow a shaft to fit in a hole or in this case a screw to fit in a hole with the threads drawn with machined screw tolerances. Your printer may have different tolerances when it comes to its ability to be able to print machined screw thread tolerances.. as would everyones else.
Scaling a screw in only the z-axis will change the threads and cause them to not align properly.
The handle was sanded down to create a nice sliding fit.
The main screw prints out great vertically on my printer and it interacts with very little friction. This is not designed for actual use.

That has nothing to do with tolerances...
Make the screw thinner -> i can understand and its ok and nearly everyone needs it. Some more some less. For this I used also the factor 16.

But for the long axis of the screw you need the same scalefactor as for the main part. Otherwise you would give the screw a different pitch and it would be luck if it will fit. For example if the axes are not calibrated well. A screw can't fit into a thread with different pitch.. If you are lucky the difference is small enough but it is luck and is not right. Why is it so hard to understand?

I don't talk about the tolerance that the shaft will fit into the hole, I talk about the pitch of the screw and the thread and that you get different pitches if you will use different scale factors for the long axis.

Btw your design is great for use. Why it should not? PLA/ABS is strong enough. It's not possible to bend metal plates or something like this but for most things it will work great. My vise is working great now.

the top screw is a Socket head cap screw with a Spherical radius on the end to allow the main screw to spin but hold the movable jaw. (or should be i didnt use it in the pictures) with a .25-20 unc 2a threads about .285 inch length, the ones holding the bottm plate are also .25-20 and .75 length.


Any recommendations regarding layer height?

The software I used to slice with was Cura, and selected the normal setting. The layer height I believe is .25 for normal (.2 for fine and .30 or .35 for course). The wall thickness is 2 and the top and bottom layers are 3 (all presets in cura).
I also printed mine out in pla nozzle at 205c and heated bed at 60c hope some of that might help.

Can you help? When I open the files, they appear to be very small, less than a centimeter for even the biggest parts. Am I doing something wrong?

Ah.. yeah i drew these in inches using auto cad so they will have to be scale up. For a 1:1 ratio use 25.4x... for my printer i scaled all the parts up 18X and the main screw only at 16X to give the screw a lil more clearance to work. hope that helps

how did you design the screw? (the theory?) it's fantastic! I cant figure out how to make a as good of a
screw with my CAD software (geoworks)

Thanks :), I have not used geoworks myself.. but in autocad I draw my thread profile at the starting point of a helix, then sweep the thread profile along the path of the helix. The tolerance on my printer comes into play with that main screw, I scaled the screw down in my slicing software some in order to get them to interact just right..took a few tries. The screw was about 2% smaller than the main body for printing purpose.

This looks awesome!

I'd like to add some mounting features and holes for "soft jaws" do you think you could upload the original CAD files or perhaps add some of these features to the body?

Thanks, I post the cad files. Ive been thinking of adding some features to it myself but I welcome others additions.

this is so beautiful!. it seems that your printer has high quality. Congratulations :)
will try to print one someday .. thank you for sharing