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therippa

Tiny Flex Extruder for E3D V6

by therippa Nov 14, 2015
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it's the 8mm OD one. Description updated. Also, no need to be shitty.

EDIT: Updated 8mm ID to 8mm OD

Sorry, was just a little upset with a fully in pieces printer when the gear did not fit, money tight, and deadlines fast approaching. And I did buy the 8mm ID, it did not fit the stepper motor on my i3, the shaft coming out of my NEMA 17 there is 5mm in diameter, so I think it should be the 5mm ID drive gear. Maybe I have a different setup?

Anyway, thanks for putting this up for everyone. Definitely the simplest E3D V6 setup for an i3 I've seen.

I just double checked - the part I remixed this from needs the same part, and they link to this (which has been sold out for two or three years) - http://reprapteile.de/mechanisch/direct-drive-geraendelter-pulley-drive-gear.html . I reverted my edit as my original spec was right - the part should be 8mm OD / 5mm ID. Anyway, I'm sure Filestruder will let you exchange it. Good luck!

Hey man, any suggestions for a cooling duct/fan setup to use along with this?

Would this work with a stock folgertech 2020 hotend and bolts etc? I want to print NinjaFlex but even at 10mm/s it bends on itself in my extruder and stops extruding D:

Any other mods I can do to print it?

no, you'll need an E3D V6 for this extruder... which is also way better than the stock folgertech one an a worthy upgrade.

Any mods you can reccomend so I can get away with printing ninjaflex without doing a major upgrade? Would adding ptfe tubing between the extruder and the heat brake fix it?

I've almost got this set up... waiting for a drive gear and a 624 bearing.

What the heck are the two small collar looking pieces for? They're in the original design too, but I can't see where they get used in either design. They're 3mm ID and about 4.75mm OD, and 5mm long.

The one with the collar is used on the hole on the idler arm.

Yep, I got that one figured out, and the other collared one. I mean the two smaller cylinder pieces in the second picture. Neither has a collar.

Posted my make - redid into black PETG. thanks again!

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Ever have this setup break/chew up filament?

I'm using an ESUN PETG black roll right now -- has chewed up the filament a few times now and broke it off at the gear. Starting to piss me off :)

I think I am too aggressive on my retraction settings, all of the retraction and combo of speed was causing the break -- the filament doesn't do too well with the same bits going past the hobbed gear twice. I even re-ran a file that had a successful print again and it did it. It only does it on parts with lots of smaller details, doesn't seem to do it on large parts.

Going to test a few things out and get back to you, for everyone's benefit.

Never had it break or chew. The hobbed gear is very sharp and needs to be positioned perfectly for it all to work, maybe it's off by a bit?

Adjusted the positioning and it was definitely a little off.

I noticed what the actual root cause is, though... had to sit there and watch to get all of the info (was getting spoiled by how set and forget this printer was).

The motor was getting extremely hot, never had this before. Reading around and other people had common issues after enabling retraction and other items. Retraction with that gear can be violent on the filament if it's off just a little bit, coupled with the extra heat, softens it a little and rips the filament.

Going to have a look at the driver voltage and adjust the pot / swap it out if necessary.

yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Going to have a look at it. Starting to really piss me off :)

Hell if I know what originally caused it. Things were not making sense as original PETG tests with the same setup were now failing. Hate to vomit up your comments but, if this ever helps anyone in the future, at least it's now public record :)

Went back to the basics and did a basic system check, found the extruder stepper driver voltage was extremely low and underdriving the motor. Initial test was great, now actually able to realize the retraction/coast settings etc.. of S3D and get PETG dialed in. My extruder motor is the only stock folgertech motor, it sounds different than it did before, but, not sure if that's a case of it being 1.8deg vs my 0.9degs, or, it was never right in the first place. It prints well so I'll just keep an eye for now.

Will post up the black PETG make of this later. Love the strength in comparison to ABS.

Jason - you mention no need for teflon tube in the extruder. Should still be one into the hotend, yeah?

Yes, you should feed it down all the way then use a sharp knife to cut it flush with the top of the hotend. I also used a philips head to ream out the top of it a little so the filament should have no resistance finding its path on the way out of the extruder

my e3d v6 came with a black fitting to hold the tube within the hotend. did you remove yours, so it sits flush?

yeah, that's there if you're using bowden, you can remove that

Got everything mounted up, perfect fit. Besides ordering the wrong drive gear which was just my bad (read ID not OD).

My stock extruder + hot end was working perfect, I use only ABS right now. Once I installed the e3d, It seems like it is underextruding. I'm going to double check that the thermistor is mounted properly, as well as try different temps to see how it goes.

Thanks again

Any time you change the diameter of the drive gear you'll have to recalibrate the extrusion length. You can start by using the reprap step calculator (google it), and then use Tom's video on extrusion calibration.

I did that, actually, before any printing, it's dead on.

The first layer looks fantastic. As the print goes on, not so much. Going to make sure that thermistor is in there and attempt other temperatures.

Figured. thanks again

After printing this, I've found that the portion that clamps onto the hotend doesn't full encircle it- is this intended behavior, or something wrong with my print?

Also, although I'm just making an assumption, there are no problems using the v6/lite6 without the collet?

Too loose or too tight? It might be a printing issue, my printer is calibrated incredibly well and the fit on my holder clamp is so tight I had to use a pair of pliers to remove it when servicing the hotend a week or two ago. When put together, it sits flush with the extruder body and is very tight.

If it's too loose, you'll probably have problem, if it's a little too tight, it should still be ok.

Thanks bud.

Will this work with any other drive gears? On hand, I have the MK9 from FolgerTech's kit and Printrbot's drive gear.

No, a larger gear wouldn't clear the motor mount so it needs to use that drive gear I posted. I'm sort of working on an extruder similar to this that use more common drive gears, but there is not eta on its completion (coupled with the fact that this one prints everything perfectly for me).

I too use a Folgertech (Prusa i3 2020), and this was a simple and no-brainer upgrade for me. In fact, the 20mm spring in the picture was scavenged from the Folgertech extruder :)

That makes sense. Any idea what modification I'd have to make to this to take one of the 623's from the 2020 kit? The only small bearings I have on hand would be the 623's, as well as AR610002's (which are the same size, but have a 4mm ID.

The tolerances on the extruder are very tight to prevent ninjaflex from binding up (an error of one millimeter can cause this in my experience). Best advice I can give is spend the $1.50 for a 624 bearing (http://goo.gl/C9Dg7s) instead of spending the time remixing the files for it to work with a 623 that is 3mm smaller diameter :)

Anyway I could get the original CAD file for the idler arm? I would like to modify it to use a 608zz bearing since that is what I have on hand. I will post as remix. Thanks!

The SCAD file for the original I remixed from is here - http://www.thingiverse.com/download:1369477