Loading
Chris918

Stops warping of ABS & Nylon prints, Enjoy it!

by Chris918 Jul 8, 2013
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

Experimenting with this glue atm. Found your post after I thought to give this glue a try (great minds think alike ;)). Was using to much Bostik Glu Stick (works great on glass btw). Using the Elmer glue on a glass plate. Brushed it on evenly on a cold bed. Looks like a thin sheet of cellophane. Large PLA thingy stuck really well on a 55 Celcius bed. Let it cool down before removing thingy. Most of the glue stayed on the bed. Great! If some of the film comes of, just brush a little glue over it again. Next will experiment with ABS.

I use jigsaw puzzle glue, it has a little sponge and make it easy to spread the glue but I don't use the tape especially printing nylon. it will pull the tape off the glass, just spread the glue directly on the glass, glue is very easy to wash off with hot water. but I just add a new layer off glue over the old layer and print like 5 a 6 time before I wash the glass plate

I print ABS at 230 and heatbed at 110, I tried cooler heatbed, but no good results especially with big parts.
Nylon at 250 with heatbed at 110. people say print nylon on none heated bed, but it warp like crazy if i try it.
I use rafts when printing nylon the glue sticks too well and make the bottom ugly, Abs just a skirt, and is very easy to remove, it just lets loose if the bed cools down

Somewhat new to 3D printing. I have a Monoprice Select and the first dozen prints were great. No problems with adhesion or warping. Then it just decided to not stick at all anymore from one day to the next. Upgraded to a glass plate and hairspray but still had warping issues. Tried a bunch of temp settings but no joy.

Frustrated, I just paused the print after the brim was complete and taped it down using painters tape then continued the print. Probably not the best fix but I have to say it's been working pretty dam well. No more warping and everything stays in place.

I print ABS using

Elmer's Disappearing Purple School Glue Sticks, 0.21 Ounces Each,
6 Sticks per Pack (E1560)
http://tinyurl.com/purple-glue-stick

on

Custom Borosilicate Glass made to order
eBay seller : shanewoodward2015

I apply, quite thick, (spread one way, then over the top of that another way), when bed is cold, wait about 20 minutes for the Purple Colour, (helps you know where you apply it), to vanish...

Then I print in ABS Nozzle 235°, maybe 245° and head bed at 65°, (I think heat bed could be a bit cooler, but not tried this).

After print I allow the bed to cool before removing the model, it usually releases quite easily once the bed is cool.

I print about 3/4 times then wipe off any old Purple Glue Stick with a damp cloth... Dry the heat bed and reapply...

It appears to me that I need to reapply Purple Glue Stick if I don't print for a few days but I can reprint on the same Purple Glue Stick it I don't wait too long between prints, more than say two days.

I am trying to get pc abs to stop warping midway through prints. Sometimes the warping makes the part dismantle completely half way though the print. (Bummer) I'll have to try some of these methods. But I'm already not using the recommended settings that I should be. Just because frankly, the Flashforge Dreamer won't do them. I bought the filament as a noob, not knowing about the high extruder temps needed. (265°c+) The Dreamer tops out at 248°c. Understandable ofcourse, I know it's mostly plastic and ptfe tubing, so reaching those temps would probably cause A LOT of problems. So until I get an all metal hot end and try to back date the firmware to a time when Flashforge allowed slightly higher temps, I'm stuck trying to print pc abs at 248°c. Does it work? Yes and no... yes it will extrude, and print fine. (Minus the warping I haven't mastered yet) but a lot of times the bond isn't very good, and parts will break at the layers. To combat this, I started printing so that all my pressure it's pressed down against the layers and not inline with them. (Treating it like wood) Simplify 3D also has very good infill options that I believe add to the overall strength of the finished print. (Much better than flashprint) Doing this has given me functional, durable, more heat resistant prints than abs ever did. I can't imagine printing with this stuff at the correct temperature settings. Shame on me for not doing my research before buying it, but I'll be damned if I going to let it go to waste!

I am interested in your exact procedure inclusive of first & other layer temperatures. Do you wipe the tape with alcohol before applying the glue? Do you put it on cold, or after heating?

I have tried the glue sticks on glass - excellent results, but I have to sacrifice parts of my surface area for clips. This is a great idea!

Use thermal pads under the glass. No clips needed since the thermal pads are non-slip!

Comments deleted.

Kapton + Elmers Purple Glue Stick + Heat for ABS 100% success rate. NO rafts or brims needed for me!

Kaption + Elmers Purple Glue Stick with NO heat for PLA. 100% success rate. No rafts or Brims needed for me!

This must be a joke. I tried the Elmers Washable Clear School Glue on my Kapton bed. It's way worse than just bare Kapton! ABS doesn't stick AT ALL!
Best thing I've found so far is plain old glue stick on Kapton. Sticks extremely well - almost too well.

def not a joke. I use the glue stick. Never had warping issues with it.

lol... 151 downloads :P

I use Gorilla Grip for my print jobs in ABS. Started out using it on kapton tape then went to a glass surface but recently started applying the adhesive directly to my aluminum build plate. So far all applications worked well.

can blue painters tape be put straight onto the HBP as I do not have a piece of glass installed yet? I print with ABS thanks

i use painters tape for pla or klapton for abs right on my aluminum heat bed.

Try Black Gaffers tape, the sticky side is ULTRA sticky and bonds to the glass well. However the top side thats black in color is made from cotton, bonds to the abs really well and you can print 6-7 inched wide without warping at all. If you purchase gaffers tape purchase the dull flat black kind because there's some that has more of a glossy look and does well but not as well as the flat black.

If any of you are situated in Europe we have the Elmer's purple glue stick in stock in our web-shop :)
http://www.feedtheprinter.comwww.feedtheprinter.com

What about removal ? How hard is it to remove large prints from the bed ?
Getting it stuck is one problem, ABS juice works just fine for that but removal is a pain in the butt.

i pull the tape off a little to get under the print, seperate the edge, reapply the tape and pull the print off the bed

I use purple elmers glue sticks on blue tape and it works very well. The ABS sticks to the tape so well the weak link is the adhesive of the tape to the glass hahaha

Its good to hear that others are already making use of various types of Elmer's glue on their print beds. I did recently hear of glue sticks being recommended for Nylon. Otherwise, I didn't think very many people knew about it or were trying it with other plastics. I was planning on trying this without heating the bed (w/ABS), so thanks for sharing srPowdercoating! My only concern with the bed heated is with large prints and uneven heating. I just want to point out that the different types of glues you all mention, do have some differences in their properties. For instance the clear type I use has less ingredients and additives, with a makeup closer to that of Polyvinyl Alcohol vs the other types of washable Elmer's glue. awhile back I did a bunch of comparisons and testing diff. Elmers glue looking for the one most like actual PVA. Here are some of the advantages of the clear type of glue I use. Its consistency is thinner, enough to spread around easily and bond into the blue tape (helps the blue tape stay down, being stiffened with infused glue.) Also, it is much more water soluble (a wet finger more easily fix it, if it flakes anywhere, after maybe removing a very large print.) Even if you all are happy with the results from your current type of glue, give this type a try and see what I'm talking about!
*BTW, My current bed temps are around 118 for ABS & 45 for Nylon

I am using the purple glue sticks also. I am printing abs now (and pla) with no heat, right on the glass bed, no tape on the bed and a 3mm brim and am not getting warping. No bed heat up time is a major plus. Don't let the glue build up, it will make your first layer uneven.

The disappearing purple glue sticks work quite well. I use it on glass at 110 degrees for abs and cold for PLA.

What is your bed Temp?

I have found that ABS dissolved in acetone works well for kapton, glass, and blue tape. Sometimes ABS will stick too well to the tape and pull the tape up from the bed! For bare glass I just pour out a thin layer of the solution and let it harden on the heated bed. For safety I still use a pretty big brim to cancel out the hard corners.

Now that's thinking outside the box! great suggestion! thank's

What is your heated bed temperature in conjunction with this technique?

I use sanded glass with a thin film of white school glue. I have to soak Nylon to get it loose. ABS pops off easy once cool.

Elmers Purple Washable School Glue works well on glass. FWIW, it's worth spending the time getting your bed level.

I've been using a glue stick with similar results. Though I've had issues with warping on blue tape where the blue tape peels up from the bed! I've even had prints stick so well to kapton tape that the kapton warped with the print!

I've also experience the blue tape pulling up with a warping print. That is the reason for using the glue. It soaks into and stiffens the tape a bit. I have also tested this using glue sticks, which I found to be less effective in keeping the tape from pulling up. **I do not print ABS on blue tape anymore. I am using this method exclusively for Nylon right now. As for ABS, I use P.C. (1/16" thick Lexan) sheets to print on directly. I'm using 1/4" aluminum channeling on all 4 sides of my build plate to hold down the lexan/ glass to the MK2 Heated Bed. Soon I will upload a better explanation for this setup.

Hey Chris918,

Sorry I know your comment is like 3 years old lol.
as for Nylon, you mentioned you use this exclusively for Nylon, are you using a glass bed? so I am assuming that for Nylon you are applying a thin layer of this clear glue on the glass. ( no blue tape in between glass and blue tape) right?

its pretty impressive that you are getting this to stick with just the bed at 45c... Cant wait to get my hands on some!

I am tearing my hair out trying to get the blue tape to stick down to the glass. I use the acetone/abs juice and it bonds well but that tape/glass adhesion is my weak point. I will try the clear elmer's glue next. I am interested in the P.C. sheet you mentioned here. How is that working out? Would you recommend buying one of those and printing on it instead of the blue tape + clear elmer's glue?

Try putting Kapton tape on the glass bed. Then if you want to use blue tape, use ONLY Scotch 3M or Frog Tape. The other brands use a different glue makeup which will usually loosen on ABS prints well before the piece is done printing. Another way is to use the Cube Stick glue on Kapton Tape, Glass, Plexi, or even the aluminum bed itself. The stick holds the filament like vice grips even just applying it to Kapton tape itself. After about 4 to 6 prints you will have to change the Kapton tape since the build up from the stick will make the tape uneven but its a small price to pay for perfection.

If you want to make your application of Kapton tape fairly easy, get the 6 inch roll size, then unroll about 6 inches of it. Roll it backwards on to the roll stopping just shy of the area where new tape will come off at, and lay the roll on the bed. Then roll the entire roll of tape across the bed while using a squeegee to get the air out. Then trim the sides to perfection.

The above may be very hard for some to visualize. (Sorry about that) But some of you will understand I'm sure. NOW...here's an easy way to remove air bubbles.... Ok, you just took 20 minutes of fighting with the tape to get it to cover the build plate. However you also see air bubbles! Now if you are like me, after 20 minutes of fighting anything, I'm just about ready to "leave well enough alone" but as you know, the air bubble will mess up your prints from a non-level bed so you have to do something! Here's what you do... Take the tip of a very sharp knife or a pin and put a small hole in the air bubble. Just 1 ultra small one will do. Try to do this before you turn the heat on the bed on. Then use your thumb or finger to push on the top of the air bubble. The air will escape through the micro sized hole and leave the bed flat! I have done this a few hundred times and it's perfect every time.

Hope it helps!