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plrmaker7

Game of Thrones Longclaw Sword version 2

by plrmaker7 Nov 23, 2015
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Hello!

I’m having issue with the pommel. Failing at the jaw every time... did you use supports for this?

Thanks!

Thank you so much for making and posting this file, I'm enjoying seeing it come together. I am however having some issues with the file Handle2.stl because of the tiny overhangs. I don't like the quality of my print without supports, but adding supports ends up ruining the print because supports are added to the tiny overhangs.
would it be at all possible to post a repaired version of that part, so its as "smooth" as the rest of the blade please?

I second this. I tried to cut out the rough section and then use blender to fill in the gap, but did not have much luck. I'm hoping that once it's printed I can use some filler to smooth it out. Otherwise it's an amazing model, but that one seam in Handle2.stl is a little frustrating.

EDIT: I decided to give it another go, and ended up with a decent result. I posted it as a remix (along with a couple other changes I made) if anyone is interested

Can you upload a version with the entire sword in one piece so that we can section it to fit our build height? My printer can handle 200mm Z, so I could print this in 5 to 6 pieces if I had the original model. I like your version the best because the blade is a bit thicker than others, the grip is cylindrical, and the blade is not modeled with a sharp edge.

Thanks!

Edit: I could wait around, so I did it myself in blender! I've attached the reassembled file here. I couldn't fix the issues that were in the original files, so there are some surface defects. But now everyone can slice the file to the height they are able to print!

Great Model! 1 question, how did you fill the gaps in the blade?

Thanks for the project :)

Is it possible, that I an get a *.sldprt file from the "pommel.stl" for editing in Solidworks?
I would remix this with a thread.

Sorry I do not have Solidworks, however, I believe you can convert it with Solidworks:

Go to the option menu in SolidWorks.
Select import.
then select STL options.
Finally select Solid Body.
Now you can open your STL files in SolidWorks to make any modification.

Great work! I used this for my Halloween costume last year.

Do you have the pommel file available as a stp or other editable file type?
I am willing to pay for it, if necessary. I want to customize the size and inner profile to fit over the pommel of a friend's metal sword.

Started with the Pommel then realized that the chin of the wolf is unsupported. How did you print this part? Any tricks to its orientation to have it print successfully? Thank you.

This is great. I just wish if you went to all the trouble to try and make the pommel show accurate, that u would have done the same with the hilt guard. It looks nothing like the show version. Attention to details.. Otherwise good job!

Just saw it. Very much closer but still not accurate.

Thanks! Maybe you should design your own then.

Please upload the whole sword if you can. Great model!

Hello! Great model, already printed it once. Would it be possible to upload the whole sword, unsliced? I want to try to make a few adjustments but I cant seem to accurately align the parts in meshmixer to get a good result. Thanks!

Do you use anything to fill in the gaps? Or do you sand? Or is my printer not dialed it lol

Mine was a bit worse than this, but would equally be interested to know.

I sliced the handle in 4 parts for better print. Hope this files are useful. Thank's to primaker7 for his geat work!

Anyone know the maximum height of all the individual parts? Thanks!

hey do you have this sword in a single file? Im planning to do a school project using a CnC router to 3D cut the wood. I could transfer the STL. file and it would make things much easier for me. If you could help me out that would be great!!!

OMG i love this Model! I will design a wall hanger for it! Thanks for your great work!

There are big gaps in the joints and the hilt is terrible.

Thanks, maybe you should 3D model your own!

Don't listen to 4m4d3u5, it looks great. Thanks for sharing with us!

Do you have a file for the whole sword together? My printer keeps leaving bunch of space in the joints want to try to print flat sections.

Great Sword very fun to print! But I just noticed the part were the blade meets the handle is slightly different than the hbos version. But the wolf head is basically perfect

Could you upload also this sword as a single file for us to slice ourselves, as you did with version 1? Please, that would be very appreciated

I used Tinkercad and added a 4mm diameter hole through all the blade sections, and will be cutting the straight piece of this to make a core to sturdy it up and can carry around better
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Vigoro-36-in-Plant-Prop-613672/100562892

Ahh that seems like a great idea. I was thinking you would want to add registration bulges and holes (don't know actual names) but this is way simpler and gives a rebar style strength to it and a bit of heft. Did the diameters match up pretty well?

Did you try this yet? The linnk says the thing is 2.3 inched wide. Thats around 5.5 CM. 4mm would be a hole that about 1/8 of a inch

the link is talking about the top circle, not the diameter of the metal its made of

could you share does files?

going to upload a remix right now! thanks for reminding me

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2527471

Longclaw Remix with 4mm hole

thanks! Did you find the rod increased streth a lot?

Hello, my printer Markforged is saying that STL file types must be smaller than 20Mb. Is there any way to get a pommel file smaller than 20Mb?

Thank you,
Steve

Anyone else having the issue of the dovetail joints being different sizes? Does anyone have this as a single file?

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Not sure how to upload pictures to show what I am talking about.

Im having the same issues. Not sure how to fix it on the print. Plan on using putty or something when i glue together

Very nice! I want to give it a try, but handle 2 has a step where it was joined. Do you have the original 1 piece before the slice?

what type of supports do I use. I have support labeled touch everywhere, on the build plate or do i have to use rafts or brims. I was wondering for the pommel since the wolfs mouth is open.

Anyone know of a 3d print that'll help mount this on a wall?

Do you have a version with the wold head pommel separated from the handle? I would like to print separately.

Hello There! did you ever find one of these? I am trying to do the same thing! thanks!

In cura, if you use the "combine everything type b" setting it will fill in the hollow head on the pommel. This cut print time by two hours for me, instead of printing another wall and supports inside of the wolf head it will just print the outside wall and infill like normal. I had an issue with the handle1_fix file, the dovetail is not attached completely to the blade and results in a gap underneath full of support material instead. Should be a simple fix for the creator. For now it snaps off quite easily

I slice the head into 3 pieces before i print. then i glue together....

what glue do you use?

I use Loctite Professional Super Glue (blue bottle.)

Is the a sheath or scabbard for it anywhere?

Do you have the original CAD File for this print?
I'm looking to make a modification to a longclaw CAD, but I use solidworks, which is horrible at importing .STL files.

Hi there! This is a wonderful model. I have been having some issues assembling, however. The connection between handle1 and handle2 seems to be a weak link for me. The dovetail joint plus glue doesnt seem to be able to handle the weight of the blade. Do you have a file with the 2 handle pieces as a single file? Alternatively do you have any pointers for the assembly?

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Hi plrmaker7! Thanks a ton for this model. I am wondering if you could somehow send me a workable cad file of the pommel. I was hoping to use your design and edit it into a printable mold for a cold casting project I am working on. If that is something you'd be interested in doing please just let me know here or pm me. If not, I totally understand and appreciate you uploading the .stl. Cheers!

Comments deleted.

I really like your design!

I would like to print it, all parts fit except the pommel and handle.
The parts are a little bit to high for my printer, is there any change you could split the part in 3 instead of 2? (or maybe 4 instead of 2)

You can download a program called netfabb which will allow you to slice files to fit. Thanks!

Hello.

Awesome model, but something is wrong with handle file:

http://prntscr.com/cw9tan

Wow, fast :D Thanks!

No problem!

hey really really nice design it looks like combined show accurate pommel and sword and replica cross guard but I think show accurate rounded cross guard fits better with this sword anyway thanks for the one of the best designs in replicas in Thingiverse:D:D

The design is very nice but my printer is too small
Is there any way to separate it into more parts?
My printer size is 130mm W x 70mm L x 70mm H

Try this program to slice the files to any size: https://www.netfabb.com/products/netfabb-basic.

Thank you very much.
Hope it work =D

Good design dude.

Could I make a request/suggestion.
Change your Dovetail joins to a Diamond for printing without supports.

Cheers
Jay

Thanks for the tip, The supports are pretty simple to remove, lately I have been using a cooling fan and printint without supports.

Thanks for the tip, The supports are pretty simple to remove, lately I have been using a cooling fan and printint without supports.

dude, still seems to be a problem with the handle.
the connector on top is still disconnected and Netfabb cannot fix it.

Im still showing a big gap under the dovetail on the handle section when slicing. V2 downloaded same problem.

What slicer are you using? I have no problem with slic3r. Are you using Cura or something else? Also, I highly recommend importing into netfabb and cutting the crossguard pieces off and printing those seperately.

Thanks for the reply. Slicing with Simplify3d. I used meshmixer to cut off the guard parts but with the gap I'm getting I couldn't attach the rest of the blade to the handle without that dove tail just snapping off.

did you use supports for the handle1?

Hi I'm fairly new to 3d printing so I'm curious as to how you positioned the files to print. Do you print them how the files come up. And wouldn't I need supports haha sorry I'm just trying to wrap my head around it. It's an awesome piece by the way.

Hey I just finished printing this, used supports got wolfs head section. Isn't necessary for other sections but adding them in gave a slightly better print and didn't take too much longer. Printed them how they came up.

This is a fantastic model and just what I needed for my Jon Snow fancy dress. Just in the process of printing the pommel at the minute but it looks great fantastic detail and so far no problems at all. Can't wait to finish printing and get to doing the finishing on it. Thanks for the upload.

Hi, did you print the jaw with no supports as well? :) well done and thank you for the model!!

no, i did use supports for that. Thanks!

Cool, thanks for the reply! Can't wait to print this one!! :)

Dude..... you should do the swords from Arnold's Conan the Barbarian movies!!! Just saying

Is there any way that you could possible edit the blade part of the hilt, so that it is two parts. I was able to fit all the parts onto my print bed except for that one, because it its two tall. I'm assuming some other people might run into this problem as well. Other than that, I love the design and the work you did here is incredible. Everything down to the fine details really makes this stand out and I am very impressed, great work!

Done - check out handle1 and handle2 files.

I printed the pommel and hilt at home. A few comments:

  • The pommel is extremely detailed but it's also a very large file. One reason is that it's hollow - there's a detailed inner hollow area in both the head and the snout that adds tremendously to the complexity and seems to detract from rigidity. A solid model (filled with generic 3D printer mesh) would have been preferable.
  • Presumably because the pommel is so detailed, my slicer had difficulty setting up support material for the jaw/snout. I ended up printing it "head up" and the printer managed to do something with that area but it's not perfect.
  • The whole thing is too large for many printers. I successfully printed it at 60% scale.
    Thanks so much for making this wonderful model!

Please post a pic in the "made" area! I have a solid version and will post it soon. As far as the size - I only print it on my delta - which has a 300mm build height. Thanks for the kind words!

Hello Sir! This is absolutely incredible! I am new to 3D printing and in my town I can actually send them the file and they can do it for me at the public library. I am making a Replica Longclaw sword and have already put together the blade, guard, handle/grip, and everything else except for the pommel. Is there a file that has just the pommel that I could send to them? I plan to place the pommel on top of my screw in method to keep everthing together. Currently the diameter would need to be just under 1 inch? I figured if this sword is to size than that wouldnt be a problem? what are your thoughts? I am sorry if this is something simple that I just cannot figure out. Thank you so much for your help and keep crushing it!

Best,
Stephen

Hey, this looks really amazing! I would like to give it a shot at making. However I don't have a 3D printer myself, so I would have to let it print somewhere. Could you tell me how much this whole sword weights? As I would need to pay for the materials and kinda need to know how much it weights to be able to make a price indication for the material.

Not sure about total weight, but I sell a printed version on my Etsy store if you are interested:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/255692173/game-of-thrones-jon-snow-longclaw-sword?ref=shop_home_active_1

Thanks for the compliment!

Ah too bad for the weight.
I'm from Europe so can't buy as it says only shipped within USA.

I have one on Ebay as well, but for some reason it is not showing up in the search. Also, Ebay's global shipping program is not showing either. If you are interested - here is the link: http://www.ebay.com/itm/121828311286.

Yeah it doesn't seem to be showing global shipping indeed as that's also displaying that it's not shipped to my country.

sorry about that. it may show up later - appears to be an ebay glitch. and I am new to etsy - not sure if they have a global shipping program like ebay.

Yeah I don't know about that either as I haven't used etsy before, only heard of it.
Which material did you use for 3D printing it? And maybe happen to know how much weight of that material was used?

1.75 PLA filament. I do not know the weight - would have to calculate it at home. I would say the sword weighs approximately 3 lbs. Hope this helps.

Also, is there a lot of material loss when printing, or do you lose almost no material? As if you don't lose much material I imagine the total used material weight for printing should be close to the printed product, right?

yes there is very little waste on this model, so the printed weight should be very close to total material used. I found an online calculator: http://www.ctheroux.com/online-tools/gcode-analyzer/

Total length of filament - 96579 mm
Total weight of filament - 288.1 grams

Ah that's good to know, thanks! So maybe like maximum 5lbs?
Oh cool, however with the calculator I seem to be experiencing problems. I select PLA 1.75 and set an stl file for file 1, but I get a lot of errors as it tries to process it and then gives no weight result.

You have to run the stl files through a slicing program (sli3r,cura) to generate gcode files. The online calculator use the gcode files as input, stl will not work. I ran my gcode files through and got 288.1 grams which is about .6 lbs for the total job.

One thing I forgot to ask. Does the colour of the material matter for painting if you use a primer on it before painting? Do you happen to have any suggestions for the paint to use?

color does not matter, but I recommend a flat black primer first. as far as paint any cheap acrylic brush on paint or spray paint works great. I have used a cheap Walmart (.96 USD) in flat black along with a chrome spray with success.

Won't a black primer make it harder for the silver and the white-brownish paints to have their colours visible? I mean that the black primer might still be visible a bit through them.
Happen to have names for the ones from Walmart? Haven't got Walmart here so might have to look for a similar paint or that paint in a store here.

Make sure the primer dries completely, then do several LIGHT coats to ensure proper coverage. The paint from Walmart is their store brand. Any paint that will stick to plastic will work great.

With those LIGHT coats, you mean coats with a light paint colour? Does it have to be with the actual colour you want to use, or a colour even lighter than the silver and white-brownish that I have to use?
Ah, that paint won't be around here then I guess xD But yeah stores should have plastic paint anyway.

no, light as in thin coats of the same color.

Ah, so thin coats of the colour the part has to be and just repeated several times to make sure nothing of the black primer can be seen through it?

yes. also keeps the paint from being too thick.

Yeah true. Thanks for the tips! :)

Ah yes I see.
For the whole sword? Wow that is almost no weight at all then :o

Cool, thanks!
If you find the time at home to calculate the used weight of the material for printing that would be really helpful too.

This is amazing!! will be having a go at this over the weekend

Awesome, post some finished pics and thanks for the praise!!!!