GOTO the Version 2 DO NOT PRINT this version See Remix
Update 28 Jan 16
I upgraded my glass and heater that makes a PERFECT addition to this upgrade!
Also see the remix ver 2
I now have a fully heated glass bed at it's full size
I also added a "Drill Own Holes" version. This is perfect if you have rods other than 8mm.
Update 21 DEC 15
Printed and installed 2 of these after the update, Stability is so much improved that I urge to to move to the updated ends even if you have the version prior.
Update 18 DEC 15
I beefed up the rod supports by extruding 11mm more grip on the 8mm bars.
This mod gives you 330mm of REAL printing area Y direction.
I'm not sure if this should be listed as a remix or not.
I started and got my inspiration for this mod from techno_hippGuy as he created a remix design that I started to remix But this is a completely new design
I see that he had us replacing the bearing and his rail config is wider. So I started a completely new design but based on the ideas of the original.
With this new design, you are ONLY replacing the black ends (print 2 each, SOLID 100% fill) 170 grams of plastic each, the 8mm bars, and the one GT2 belt. I did use PLA for my print as the temp never gets hot on the ends.
So this is pretty easy. You'll need:
-2x 495mm M8 Smooth Rods: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045DWA9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
-1x 525mm (approx.) GT2 Belts : http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FM5SC2Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (comes with 1150mm of belt and 2 pulleys.)
-Unscrew the front and back black screws that are driven into the rectangle GT2 belt holders. This releases the pressure on the GT2 belt so the ends bed ends come apart/off.
-Remove current bed
-Test fit the printed parts and determine how much you have to cut off of the 8mm rods so that the glass bed fits into the top tray cutouts, when the rods are test fitted. I cut 31.1 mm off each rod
-While your bed is in it's test fit config, decide how much GT2 belt you need to replace the shorter original (DON'T toss out the old one, if you have issues you will need it to put your old bed config back together!) It's better to have too much belt than not enough.
-Now put your cut bars into the holes and test fit again.
-When all is looking good and your happy with the fit...
-Take the 8mm bars and put into the bearing holders where the shorter bars came out of.
-Attach front mount to rods, press fit. Take the belts and insert to belt mounts, and screw them in as you took them out.
In Marlin, change the firmware Configuration.h Line 329
There is a pound sign in front of the words define but the editor makes the text larger instead of printing the symbol.
define Y_MAX_POS 254
define Y_MAX_POS 330 //Max mm on your Y axis.
After install, If you have problems it will be on the first layer, If an issue arises, it will be that the bed leveling process pushes your nozzle down on the glass and if you didn't print the ends SOLID, the bed will flex downward and the leveling process will think zero will be below the bed. your first layer will be printing with nozzle jammed against the bed.
Here's a possibility for a heated bed