Pergo Robo3D R1 (and plus) true 330mm Y rails upgrade

by Pergo Nov 25, 2015
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How did you cut down the smooth rods?

I used a dremal "metal" cutting wheel. The ones that are painted silver on one side.

In my specific situation I think I cut 31mm off each side.

FYI you seem in to this with your own custom items.. private message me if you like and I can five you my direct email.. :)

Thanks, I thought that might have been you did it but wanted to ask in case their was an each way I was overlooking. I broke my glass and have been gathering parts to do this based on your build. The only customization is the bed heater, I'll post some pics when I have it. I went for lower power at 360W a larger size at 240mm x350mm, and asked them to have the wires come off the short side.

Good deal about the wires on the short side.

How long is the lip on the bottom that holds the glass? I'm trying to size a custom heater.

9.50 mm
I also included a pic of the measurement for you. :)

Thanks. I'm looking to do this upgrade and wanted to get a heater that extends a bit past the printable area but did interfere with the holders. Thinking 240mm X 350mm will work.

I think your best off with the heater I used. I can print every possible mm of my glass. There is a section that just can't be printed determined by the length of the housing containing the Y bearings. If you want more than 312-330mm your only option is extending the glass and 8mm rails by the distance your adding.

Example: add 100 mm to the glass and rails gives you 412-430 mm printable.

If your not using larger glass, see the heater and NeoCeram I used in "myThings" on this site. I can print a full 312-315 mm on my specific printer and all of it is fully heated with my used bed heater. Never a warp!

The supplier could get you up to 68" glass if you paid for it I'd find it hard to find a place to put the printer at that size!

I saw that this mod had been updated but the download is only 1k. Neither file will open.

Update: I was able to open in in Cura properly.. I just wanted to verify the files were ok.
This site has a lot of problems.. but it's the best we have. private message me if you have issues. I will email anything you need directly to you if you have problems.

FYI: Has nothing to do with this mod. I was pulling on a print and I heard a snap... ahhhh I have since cracked my bed and replaced it with a custom cut piece of 15"x10" NeoCeram (its the SAME black glass that your electric range uses!! it's heat tolerance goes all the way to 1200c. OMG this ceramic is SO flat. I now am pointing my blame for some print issues at the glass itself. Every single print is coming out perfect! I also replaced the heater with a 300mmx200mm silicon one from Keenovo
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011U7AYX4 this thing heats up FASTER than the nozzle. I'm actually happy that I cracked my glass that pushed me into this upgrade sooner than I wanted to. Even with a heater that reaches 300mm out, I still think you can use PLA for the ends. the temp drop off is so steep on the glass that there is not even a 1-2c temp change near the ends. I wanted to make sure that the ends would be ok so I took the glass (NeoCeram) and my new heater up to 145c and no issues. I think I felt the the room temp change a bit!

I tried myself your correct.. I got a zip of 1k in length.

If you download each of the files separately they come the right size.
I just did it..

OK Cool. Thanks. I went with the heater you suggested when you first posted this mod. It works great but sure doesn't heat up before the hot end.. pretty slow actually. Although I AM still using the stock Robo3dr1+'s power supply if that makes much difference. I'm curious how much a piece of that glass is though? Never know when I might accidentally break my glass ;)

I just put up the info for my glass and heater upgrade

Pergo Robo3D Upgrade, NeoCeram Glass and 600 watt(110v) heater
by Pergo

If you have the SAME heater as I do.. it's 110 volts not 12 as the old one. it's a 600 watt heater, it's 6 times hotter and faster.
I will be posting a full mod for the heater and the new glass NeoCeram possibly today.

When I saw this mod yesterday I immediately ordered the parts and got ready to print the parts. What about the magnets? Do they just sit on the end piece? I noticed there isn't a place for the magnets to rest in. If not needed then cool but it seems to defeat the purpose of the magnets which do a good job at holding the bed down snug and even.

Nope magnets not used. Bed sits well in tray slots provided. Only 2 issues that I have after 100 prints using these new rails.. But none that make me want to return to the old rails.

Some times the Y zero switch is not hit not sure if my rails are slipping?

Other item is that I think my glass is U shaped in the portrait orientation. I seem to have the ends about .2 mm higher than the middle. Thought about flipping the glass over and using the other side and re sticking the heater.

In Cura I have the dimensions set for

214 mm X
315 mm Y
200 mm Z (E3Dv6 upgrade is a tad taller)

I wonder if by not using the magnets to hold the ends down if your bed isn't flexing in the center when auto leveling?
I might try to modify it as I have rare earth magnets already. I'm pretty new to the 3d editing stuff so if you where considering adding them I wouldn't mind waiting for that version. :)

I gained a few mm in height by not using the magnets. But being I'm a real graceful dude... I would modify a special file for you if you email me pictures and dimensions of these magnets you are going to use. I think that if you seen the fit without them you might change your mind. the bed never moves and sits in the trays really well. It just looks like my glass is bowed a tad. If it was the brackets them self, I'd see the lower at the ends not the higher points. pat at zbit.net email.

I think if you just sunk them down you would still gain the mm or so and retain the magnet feature. They don't need to touch each other The rare earth magnets I have are common eBay items that measure 10mm x 2mm and are round. Thanks for this mod and the extra effort

If you plan on adding the magnet holes i will wait to print. Otherwise if not I'm thinking about giving it a go the way they are. I Just don't want to waste the material if you have something in the works.

Sorry man no plans on the magnets. All is working great for me.

That's cool. I'm gonna print them tonight. Other parts should be here and day. Thanks for the mod!

Comments deleted.

Very nice mod to use the full glass build plate area. Always seemed to be such a waste of build area to me. I will add this to my list of upgrade projects for the Robo. Thanks for supplying the links to the hardware needed. Did you do anything to increase the heated surface area? That might be the only drawback if using ABS outside the normal build area. Also, was there any firmware settings you needed to change or just change the build volume in your slicer?

yes there is a firmware change.. just one line..

I included this in the text from your comment.
"In Marlin, change the firmware Configuration.h Line 329

There is a pound sign in front of the words define but the editor makes the text larger instead of printing the symbol.
define Y_MAX_POS 254
define Y_MAX_POS 330 //Max mm on your Y axis.

I totally missed that. Thanks. Great work.

Sorry I didn't explain that well in my comment.. you didn't miss it.. I just added it due to your comment. :) it's text that was not there when you asked.. Good question.

No change to the heated area.
I did think about using 2 heaters next to each other..