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Olooki3D

Diamond magnetic effector for delta Kossel or Rostock

by Olooki3D Nov 26, 2015
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How did you intend mounting the two pieces together?
The holes in the effector plate that line up with the diamond holder "legs" appear to be clearance for M4. The holes in the legs of the holder appear to be clearance (or nearly so) for M3. The legs don't appear to have enough thickness to allow tapping them for M4 fasteners.
Thanks.
Frederick

1/8 course thread plastic screws worked fine. 5m plastic screws work as well if you are looking for metric!

I used american fastener sizes instead of metric. I don't remember exactly what size is slightly larger than M3, but that is what I used. In some cases like these I might put a drop of super glue in the hole and a light spray of cooking oil on the bolt. Screw it in and let the glue harden for instant smaller threads. The cooking spray prevents the glue from bonding to the bolt.

Not metric - interesting - I have a large assortment of metric fasteners but not much in imperial. I'll give the glue/oil approach a try. Now that the design program you used is no longer available can you post the design files in some format that Fusion 360 can open - that program seems to be the "replacement" for 123D.
I would like to make the changes that we have discussed - shortening the legs and metric fasteners.
Thanks.
Frederick

The diamond holder you are asking about was not made by me. I simply made the effector plate that attaches to it. As described in my description of the file, I had to cut off about 3/4 inch to get my diamond nozzle to stick out below the plate. I just uploaded my version of that shortened plate. it is called DiamondMagEffectorFanShroud_fixed. I wish I could upload the file in another format but all I had to work with was the original STL file in the first place.
Hope this helps.

Thanks for the information.
If I understand you it was possible to edit the original STL file in some way? I did not know that STL could be edited. Interesting.
Anyway regards the holes in your effector plate - I would like to be able to print a version made for metric fasteners. So can you post that file in any other editable format for some modeling program now that 123D is gone?
Frederick

Once a file is in STL format it can be edited not as a CAD object but as a mesh object. It cannot be easily converted into another file type. The expensive programs like SolidWorks have method to convert STL to other file types. There might be some free online converters if you Google it. I haven't checked. I was able to use the now abandoned 123D Design to edit the STL. I don't know how to do that with any other programs other than maybe meshmixer but it is not a easy to use. TinkerCAD is basically the same as 123D Design, so you might try that on as well. I created the effector plate with just over 4mm holes so they should work. The ball stud holes should work with Hadley's studs ok as well. The diamond holder part was not designed by me. I just did a quick Google search and it looks like you can import 123D create files into Fusion360. Last I remember you can get Fusion360 for free and it is very powerful.

Thanks much for the info.

Frederick

I tried to post some of my questions but they are held up for "moderation" - whatever that is exactly.

In any case I fitted a genuine Diamond unit to your two parts (which I had printed) and the fit was very good EXCEPT the tip of the nozzle did not extend below the bottom of the effector plate.

That doesn't seem like it will work.

Can it be fixed?

Thanks much.

Frederick

I guess either my heat sinks are longer than the standard one or my heat break tubes are longer. In either case I would think that one could simply cut enough off of the end of the 3 legs so that when they are mated up with the effector plate that the tip of the diamond Head will protrude below the plate. Someone else asked if you need to loosen all 3 heatsinks, insert them into the holder and then tighten each heatsinks down a little bit each until all are tight... Yes, that is the way I had to do it as well. Then use zip ties to clench the heat sinks to the holder. Lastly screw the effector plate on. The diamond tip extends about 1 cm below the effector plate. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the info.

I have a Diamond "clone" that I haven't looked at - I will examine it just to see if it matches the genuine unit in dimensions.

Trimming the legs seems like a fine approach.

Frederick

Fwi, mine is a clone too. I think the dimensions are the same as the original.

Hi,

I had Shapeways make both of these parts. They came out very well. They fit together nicely. Genuine Diamond heat sinks fit nicely into the "holder" part as well.

I've only worked with your parts a little while but have encountered a few issues:

A. The only way (so far) that I have been able to fit the Diamond assembly (nozzle and heat sinks) to your "holder" part was to insert the heat sinks just a little ways into the nozzle, fit the assembly to your "holder" part and then tighten each heat sink a little at a time until all were secured.

Is that what you intended?

B. The "left" on your "holder" part are so long that when fitted to the your effector plate the Diamond nozzle does NOT protrude beneath the effector plate. Obviously this won't work.

Did you intend us to shorten the "legs" as needed?

C. It appears the two of the holes for mounting the fan are intersecting the space where the heat sinks will be. I think that the top end of the "holder" part needs to be a little taller (thicker?) so all four holes for the fan are in solid plastic and clear of the heat sinks.

But perhaps I am doing something wrong.

Thanks for your efforts - showing great promise.

Frederick

Would it be possible for You to change the effectorplate to take on magnetic disk istead of the magnetic ball design here? :)

If so the discs are 12mm in diametre 5mm high (thou holde should be 4mm deep), so 12x4mm holde instead of the 2-3 mm holde thats there today..

Would this be something to consider?

I'll be happy to comply with the license thing. Which license can this be changed to that will satisfy you?
Or, if I remove your file and post a link to your file, will that work?

license thing in that case just means "if you use this file, select Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike in 'license' field on publcation page of your design on thingiverse". Then you shouldn't remove anything :) or remove and use link instead, it's up to you :)

Sorry i'm disturbing you with such things, but i don't want big companies to come here, copy my part from page which says "yeah, you could do it!" and make money from selling it :(

I understand your point. I am just not real clear on the different licenses and what they all mean. Nonetheless, I set it the way you suggested.

Intersting design, but sorry, you couldn't share my file licensed under Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike under different license because of "ShareAlike"ness, please either change license or remove my file from design. Thank you.
You could read more about creative commons there: http://creativecommons.org/ :)

Distance between rods in each pair : 45mm

whats the distance between the rods?