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Firefly Pro

by Firefly1504, published

Firefly Pro by Firefly1504 Nov 30, 2015

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Summary

Update 10/02/16:
Finally finished and added the Firefly Pro Guide to the website. Sorry for the delay on this one.
Happy flying!

http://firefly1504.com/fireflyproguide.html

Update 28/12/15:
Added new arms with support for 22mm motors with M3 mounting holes.
Update 20/12/15:
I updated the lower plate and recommend printing it again if you printed it yet. I also finally got the bumper ready so your camera is safe again. I still need to make the cable holders under the motors.

Update 07/12/15:
I now uploaded nearly all parts I still have to change some things at the bumper. I will upload as soon as possible.

This is the all new Firefly Pro.
Its a 250 size quad thats designed for the race track.
It is still a work in progress but right now I am working out the last edges.
A short guide with build instructions will be uploaded soon on

http://www.firefly1504.com/

also follow me on Instagram for the latest build updates!

https://www.instagram.com/firefly_1504/

Tipps

Almost everything to get you in the air

The motors for your build should have between 2300kv and 2800kv there are a lot of choices out there and its like most of the things in the RC world you have to decide how much money you want to spend.

http://www.gearbest.com/motor/pp_625513.html?lkid=11015787

https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerstar-Racing-Edition-2205-BR2205S-PRO-2300KV-2-5S-Brushless-Motor-For-X210-X220-250-FPV-Racer-p-1156620.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerstar-Racing-Edition-2306-BR2306S-2700KV-2-4S-Brushless-Motor-For-X210-X220-250-FPV-Racer-p-1149568.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/One-Pair-DYS-SE2205-2300KV-3-5S-Brushless-Motor-CW-CCW-for-FPV-Racing-p-1043442.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Emax-RS2205-2600KV-RS-2205-2600KV-Racing-Edition-CWCCW-Brushless-Motor-for-FPV-Multicopters-p-1041930.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

You will also need ESCs (electronic speed controllers).

https://www.banggood.com/Emax-EMX-SC-1774-D-SHOT-Bullet-Series-30A-2-4S-BLHELI_S-ESC-Support-Onshot42-Multishot-D-shot-Ready-p-1115126.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

https://www.banggood.com/Emax-EMX-SC-1773-Bullet-Series-20A-2-4S-BLHELI_S-ESC-Support-Onshot42-Multishot-D-shot-Ready-p-1115131.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

https://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerstar-Racer22-22A-2-4S-32bit-DShot1200-Ready-FPV-Racing-Brushless-ESC-p-1142338.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/4X-DYS-DS20A-20amp-BLHeli_S-2-4S-ESC-BB2-Supports-Dshot-For-High-KV-Motors-p-1139129.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/4X-Racerstar-RS20A-V2-New-20A-Blheli_S-OPTO-2-4S-ESC-Support-Oneshot42-Multishot-for-FPV-Racer-p-1074732.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/de/EMAX-BLHeli-lightning-30A-ESC-Micro-Mini-Electronic-Speed-Controller-Only-5g-for-Racing-Drone-p-1057174.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

as flightcontroller you'll have a broad variety of choices.
You better make your own decision there.
Different flavours of Flight controllers:

http://www.banggood.com/Raceflight-Betaflight-CC3D-REVO-F4-STM32F405-Flight-Controller-with-VbatBuzzer-p-1087561.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NAZE32-F3-Flight-Controller-Acro-6-DOF-Deluxe-10-DOF-for-Multirotor-Racing-p-1010232.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Integrated SD-Card Slot to record flight data:
http://www.banggood.com/F3-Mini-Flight-Controller-STM32F303-With-MicroSD-Card-Slot-for-Multirotor-Racing-p-1055207.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Integrated OSD:
http://www.banggood.com/Emax-Skyline32OSD-Skyline32-Acro-Flight-Controller-with-OSD-p-1045070.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

https://www.banggood.com/Betaflight-F4-Flight-Controller-STM32-F405-MCU-Integrated-OSD-p-1103940.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

https://www.banggood.com/BF3_1_5-Omnibus-F4-V2-Flight-Controller-STM32-F405-MCU-Integrated-OSD-Built-in-5V-BEC-Current-Meter-p-1143258.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

As PDB (power distribution board) I like the Matek PDB with integrated Lipo warner (Low voltage warner) which also is switchable by the transmitter if you can't find the quad after a crash.

http://www.banggood.com/Matek-LED-POWER-HUB-5in1-V3-Power-Supply-Board-BEC-5V-12v-Low-Voltage-Alarm-Tracker-p-1019353.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

As camera take the 700tvl fatshark camera (because of the size)
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-600TVL-CMOS-V1-Fixed-Mount-FPV-Camera-NTSC-PAL-p-917920.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

I tested a few other cams in similar size and all of them had a very dark picture.
If you choose an FC without video transmitter you can get one of these. They are very small and work great for me (these are also very cheap).
http://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-TX5828-40CH-5_8G-600MW-RP-SMA-Female-FPV-Transmitter-p-1022653.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TS5840-Upgraded-40CH-5_8G-200mW-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-TX-for-FPV-Multicopter-p-1033810.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Skyzone-FPV-TS5813S-5_8G-25mW-40CH-Mini-AV-Wireless-Transmitter-For-Mini-Multicopter-QAV250-p-1021364.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

If you want an OSD the micro minimOSD is a very versatile choice. You can monitor your batterie voltage, receiver reception and many more.
http://www.banggood.com/CC3D-Flight-Controller-Mini-OP-OSD-For-FPV-Multicopter-p-1009911.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Additional parts will be
video goggles,
(This is a hole category in itself but I will leave a few links here)
FIRST CATEGORY: (from expensive to less expensive, and also from better resolution to worse resolution)
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-Fat-Shark-Dominator-HD-V2-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-Headset-p-1008009.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-Dominator-V3-FPV-Video-Goggles-Glasses-WVGA-720p-HDMI-800X480-p-1000597.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-Fat-Shark-Attitude-V3-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-Headset-Support-3D-p-1008008.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/FatShark-Fat-Shark-Teleporter-V5-FPV-Goggles-5_8G-7CH-Video-Glasses-Headset-p-1041414.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

SECOND CATEGORY: (Mono-Display-Goggles same order as before)
http://www.banggood.com/Skyzone-SJ-V01-5_8G-40CH-FPV-Goggles-7-Inch-1280x800-HD-Video-Glasses-with-HDMI-Input-p-1041124.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Goggles-One-5-Inch-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-HD-1080p-72-Degree-HDMI-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-p-1043694.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV800-5-Inches-800x480-FPV-Goggles-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-Auto-Searching-Build-In-Battery-p-1053357.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/KDS-Kylin-Vision-64CH-5_8G-Full-Band-FPV-Goggles-5-Inch-VR-Headset-with-Battery-p-1053030.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-4_3-Inch-With-7_4V-800mAh-Battery-p-960761.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Things that matter with FPV goggles are FOV(Field of view (higher is better but stay between 30 and 50 degrees for the best flying experience)) and screen resolution (higher is better of cause) and the price.

battery straps,
http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-DUPU-Li-Po-Battery-Fixation-Magic-Tape-Straps-For-RC-Model-p-1040351.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

LiPos,
Get a few 3s Lipos if you are a beginner, but not to many you will be flying 4s sooner as you think. Also do not buy LiPos with a C-Rating lower than 40C.

LiPo charger,
http://www.banggood.com/ISDT-SC-608-150W-8A-MINI-Smart-LCD-Battery-Charger-with-SCLinker-Cable-p-1115793.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

FPV antennas
http://www.banggood.com/AOMWAY-5_8G-3dBi-RP-SMA-Male-Four-Lobe-RHCP-VTxVRx-FPV-Antenna-p-978264.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
(Make sure the connector fits your video transmitter (RP-SMA/SMA))

A rule of thumb is don't take the cheapest stuff and start by imitating other fpv pilots.
This is much information for one comment but if you want to build a quadcopter some reading and learning is involved. With the list of products I recommended you have a good starting point for your first build.
If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.
Happy flying

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Comments deleted.

Hi Firefly!

I have been printing bits for the Firefly, but realised I have and wanted to use 22xx motors, I was wondering, what parts of the regular Firefly work for the Firefly Pro?

I have so far printed the Top (Front and Rear) plates, Bottom plates, bumper, sides and clips of the regular Firefly, will any of them work? Or do I need to start the print again? Or do you have any way I can add 22xx motor plate to the regular Firefly?

cheers!

Hi Mister_F
the firefly pro and the firefly don't have ver much in common. However this thing might be interesting for you:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1132611

Its a motor mount for 22XX motors and works with the firefly.

I hope that helps. Happy flying!

H2206 M3 motor mounts for Firefly quadcopter
by Pyralix

Shouldn't the lower half of the arms be attached to the upper half of the arms at the far end at some point? (Even if it's just a zip tie.)

Otherwise it's not contributing to the strength of the arm (upwards) at all, and is just an overgrown deck spacer...

Jul 2, 2017 - Modified Jul 2, 2017
Badbunz84 - in reply to goatzilla

If you look, there are two spots on each esc mount you can easily place an m2 or 5/64 screw to secure it.

I agree though, I think I can shave weight if I remove the esc mounts and add stand offs and go with the 4in 1 esc. Probably could remove the sides as well and put in stand offs to fit the stack in the body.

My first quad atm is an Hovership MHQ2 and it works okay but because it is a but clumpy and heavy, i will Now try the Firefly Pro :)
I'm very impressed by the slim design and the good Motherboard and ESC organization possibilities.

What Battery sizes are you recommend? I have 3S 1300 and 1800mAh batteries and want to order some more. would it also work with a 2200mAh battery?

Stay with 1300mah the quad is lighter and more nimble and you get less damage in crashes when you fly lightweight. Stay away fromm 2200mah for mini quads.;)
Happy flying

Do you update the list of parts? Im new to Drones, and I'm wondering if the list you suggest of boards, and motors is not too obsolete?
Thanks for posting this.

In my opinion the components are still state of the art. They are perfectly suitable for a cheap beginner quadcopter with intermediate power. I wouldn't recommend putting 400$ worth in parts that are way overpowered for a beginner and than break everything in the second crash.

If you want to be more futureproof you can get 30A escs from the beginning.

can anyone send me a link to the assembly process? thanks

would it also be okay to use 5 inch props

I am scaling mine down by 20 percent due to the room on my print bed, will this project still work for me?

I'd have a look at the remix by xocotet https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1830899
It's been modified to fit on a smaller bed by making the top plate in two halfs

Modified plates and side for small bed printers
by xocotet

thank you so much, your a life saver

Comments deleted.

Will the Brotherhobby Returner R4 2206 2300kv motors fit the m3 arm?

Perfect, nearly finished printing all the parts, and got all the electronics arriving over the next few days, cant wait to crash this thing!

Also, have you got any plans for a Firefly Pro 2?

How much did this cost you to build?

It depends on the parts you want and if you want fpv or not.

Just the copter will be between 130$ and 200$.

However the first copter is always the most expensive one since you will need lipos, a charger, radio, fpv monitor and so on.

thanks, for all the links, If I go for 2600kv motors, I will need the 30Amp ESC's ?
Also what flight controller would you/ do you use, the CC3D or Naze32.

Yeah everybody is using 30A escs nowadays. Maybe its more future proof to take them. However I was always satisfied with 20A escs too.
I am using an Omnibus F4 flight controller. Mine is without osd but there are many version now that have a build in osd.
Like this one:
https://www.banggood.com/Betaflight-F4-Flight-Controller-STM32-F405-MCU-Integrated-OSD-p-1103940.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Was thinking about designing my own quad frame, but this looks nice... too lazy to build my own now :p
Just wondering:
-Why is the camera plate so close to the front? It stops the fpv camera from having any decent angle
-What is the weight of the total frame with screws etc? Looks kinda heavy, which is what is keeping me from printing it right now

I just built mine and it weighs 138 grams without electronics. Top and bottom plates are 20% infill and everything else is 50. Arms are carbon fiber nylon at 100% infill for rigidity and strength.

What angle do you fly? The mount should go up to 40-50 degree.
I can't tell the overall weight right now I may have commented it somewhere here in the comments. its not very heavy.

Comments deleted.

In this version the rays are added as in 1 version of firefly?

The only part that is too big for my printer is the top (160x160x160). Any suggestions on best option? Slice off the lip? Use two bottoms? Or slice in half and glue? Thoughts?

I'd say slice in half and glue together I did that with the first firefly and it worked out really good and never broke.

Thanks I'll try it. Do you have a set up guide for all the electronics? Or somewhere you can point me?

Hello,
Thanks for your awesome work! Do you think the firefly pro is better than the original firefly? Which one would you recommend? Are the arms of this model foldable, too?

The first one has more "movable" parts that can break. The pro has no foldable arms. I'd say the pro is more robust maybe. Choose for yourself which one you like more ;)

And with the pro I don't have to buy extra carbon rods, so it's going to be the pro! Thanks!

Mar 17, 2017 - Modified Mar 17, 2017

Is there anyone who can help me wire this up?
I have got a 'FLIP32 F4' flight controller and a 'RS20Ax4' Esc.
I am unsure on what pin to connect to what.
Also it is unclear how i connect the battery as the esc has 2 wires coming out that i somehow need to connect to the battery but that one only has 2 plugs.
I have a soldering iron, but i just need to be sure on what to connect to what.
The battery i have is a '1300mah Infinity 4S lipo'

Edit: ok i figured out i need an XT60 female connector for the leads from the esc, but do i split that to the flight controller or does the esc also power the flight controller?

One of my copters has the same setup.
So you figured out the part with the xt60 thats great. On the connectors sides are either a plus or a minus. Plus is the red cable, Minus is the black cable. you can add 2 cables for the flight controller where the battery leads meet the esc.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/wpptn8i93rhw901/80af7100-8c32-4fe7-8c04-fc26575398d8.jpg?dl=0
Then connect the new red wire to the VBAT pin and the black wire to the marked ground pin on the FC. (As shown on the picture: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ccdgccshtpu4i2k/Flip32-F4-Flight-Controller-pinout.jpg?dl=0)
Also to mention with this board is that you have to remove one of the resistors which are marked with the blue arrows on the top right. If your receiver is using sbus you have to remove the ppm resistor and if your receiver is using ppm you have to remove the sbus resistor.
If anything is unclear or you have further questions feel free to ask here or write a direct mail.
Good luck with your build!

Tnx for your reply!
This will help me alot.
Any chance you also know how to connect the 'fs-ia6b' receiver?

You have to connect the wires according to the pictures:
Receiver: https://www.dropbox.com/s/fit62zhl8f8suqi/lf2hMoz.jpg?dl=0
FC: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1rcuhepe0grlsn4/Flip32-F4-Flight-Controller%20.jpg?dl=0
As far as I know you have to remove the ppm resistor from the board to enable sbus/ibus it is marked with the white pointers.

You will also have to bind the receiver to the transmitter before you start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOSg17708XA

Then follow this video on how to setup the transmitter for using ibus.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIEAu8ig6V0

Tnx for all your help!
This will get me very far, if not to the finish all the way :D.

I hope it will if you got anymore problems tell me ;)

This is what i have right now: http://imgur.com/cmVMq0H
How do the motors know when to start spinning and how fast?
I think im missing some kind of signal wire from the 'FLIP32 F4' flight controller and the 'RS20Ax4' Esc.
Is that right?

Yes you have to connect the signal wires of the escs to the motor outputs on the flight controller. I marked the position on the 4in1 where the silkscreen shows which pin belongs to which esc.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/14rpqguw4zh98l4/cmVMq0H.png?dl=0
I assume you are using betaflight so make sure you have the right motor order.
http://www.propwashed.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/11-MotorsDirectionAndNumbers.png

I didn't flash the flight controller yet, but i am going to connect the motors to the esc with some bullet connectors for easy swapping so i will make sure i connect them in the right order.
Also another small question: do i remove or keep the plastic wrapper on the esc? i am not sure if this would cause overheating issues.

I think the FC comes with Betaflight on it. And yes you can leave the heat shrink tubing on the ESC. Just remove it where its necessary.

Apr 13, 2017 - Modified Apr 13, 2017
Maxloader - in reply to Firefly1504

Ok so i tried Betaflight and Cleanflight and both give me the exact same problem:
I followed the iBUS setup guide: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yIEAu8ig6V0
When the FC (its a CC3D Revo F4 btw (or might be the same as a FLIP32, its very confusing)) is connected to the PC and i am watching the receiver tab, it instantly freezes up as soon as i move the throttle stick up.
Any ideas? ive googled alot and seem some forum posts and experimented with a fair combination of MSP and Serial RX settings on multiple UART's.
I also learned that the post i connected it to is 'inverted' does this maybe cause a problem?
I am also second guessing breaking off the PPM resistor as i don't read that anywhere on the internet :S

I found it all out :)
It seemed that i connected it to the wrong UART.
The one you described was inverted (hardware).
It was just a matter of desolder and solder to another UART :)
I got help on the rcgroups forum here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2870653-Flysky-FS-I6-CC3D-Revo-F4-via-iBUS-problem

Awesome you found a solution. sorry that I couldn't help. Main thing is you found a solution, perfect.

I just wanted to let you know that it made its maiden flight today, very carefully indoors :D.

Comments deleted.

Hello ,
Thank you for your work.

What is the size available for the battery ? is it possible to fit a 1800-2200mah Battery .

I personally dont have lipos that big I would rather go for 1300-1550mah. I guess you'll be able to fit the 1800mah lipo on it but maybe one of the guys who have build one yet used one and can tell us.

Are there any images of how the back bumper and the feet attach?

The bumper: Just stack ist onto the lower plate on the back and drive the screw all the way through both.
The feed: Same as the bumper

Can you give me an example of which arms I would use with which motors? Thanks!

arm m3 v3 for 2204/2205 motors
arm v3 for 1806 motors

Has anyone created the plastic pins and c clips used to hold the camera plate in place?

Didn't print these yet, but found the pins I was looking for: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1748464

Lumenier Action Camera Mount Vibration Dampening Pins and Circlips (QAV-180 QAV-210 QAV-R )
Feb 19, 2017 - Modified Feb 19, 2017

Do you need to turn support on when printing the Esc mounts?

Depends on your printer I enabled support for the esc mounts and recommend doing so.

Hope this project isn't dead, just ordered all my electronics this past weekend. I printed the base frame in PETg and was thinking about printing the ESC holders and side plates in PLA to add some rigidity to the overall frame. Any thoughts from you guys who have built one of these already? Or...should I just go all PETg?

Complete noob to FPV quads, but this just seemed too cool of a project (I've done RC cars for years). I've been reading and watching a ton, so hopefully all goes well, wish me luck. :)

Little less than a month and I'm up flying (If you want to call it that). Anyway, couple comments for anyone else looking to build this and use the parts listed in the comments. It wasn't without issue....

Purchased these ESC:
DYS XM Seris XM20A BLHeli mini 20A ESC
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-XM-Seris-XM20A-BLHeli-mini-20A-ESC-For-High-KV-Power-Electronic-Speed-Controller-p-1021885.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
They were recommended "somewhere" here in the comments (They are not longer on the front page which is good). I WOULD staying away from them as they are HUGE. I had to hunt down these giant ESC covers: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1195369. It all works, just a little unsightly.

I purchased these motors from the suggested list:
DYS BE1806 2300KV Brushless Motor Black Edition.
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1806-2300KV-Brushless-Motor-Black-Edition-for-Multicopters-p-946416.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
The Feet.STL don't fit as one set of the holes are too far away. I created a brand new set if anyone is interested and using these motors. They are not mandatory but just add to the overall look.
There are no reverse prop adapters in the box, so I guess you just crank them down? I ended up purchasing new prop adapters as I really don't want to look a prop mid air.

Purchased this Flight Controller:
Upgrade NAZE32 F3 Flight Controller Acro 6 DOF/Deluxe 10 DOF for Multirotor Racing
http://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NAZE32-F3-Flight-Controller-Acro-6-DOF-Deluxe-10-DOF-for-Multirotor-Racing-p-1010232.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
Proceeded to fry the board connecting the -/+ of the BEC5v which is right next to the boot pins. Whoops, so ended up getting a basic NAZE32 to replace it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BPT3BTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Purchased this Camera:
Fatshark 700TVL CMOS V2 100 Degree Fixed Mount FPV Camera NTSC PAL
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-600TVL-CMOS-V1-Fixed-Mount-FPV-Camera-NTSC-PAL-p-917920.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
The mount STL puts the camera out way too far for my liking. I ended up finding another Mount: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1516614 and drilled some new holes for it in the top frame, still seems very tight in there. After watching lots and lots of vids, people seem to like the HS1177: http://www.banggood.com/Foxeer-HS1177-Sony-600TVL-CCD-2_8MM-IR-Mini-FPV-Camera-5-17v-with-Bracket-p-1047125.html

Purchased these standoffs and just cut them down to size with a dremel:
10Pcs M3 25mm Knurled Standoff Aluminum Alloy Anodized Spacer
http://www.banggood.com/10Pcs-M3-25mm-Knurled-Standoff-Aluminum-Alloy-Anodized-Spacer-p-1118407.html?rmmds=search

I don't have FPV goggles yet, looking to pick these up once they are back in stock:
http://www.banggood.com/KDS-Kylin-Vision-64CH-5_8G-Full-Band-FPV-Goggles-5-Inch-VR-Headset-with-Battery-p-1053030.html?utm_source=Youtube&utm_medium=cussku&utm_campaign=5635792_1053030&utm_content=1081&p=CG24181822629201506N
For the time being just working on some line to sight flying to get used to the power and working on basics like hovering...

Thanks for the files and all the comments and discussions, it was a fun build! Now off to build my Truggy... :)

FatShark pivot mount

Thank your taking the time and share all the information you gathered throughout the build. I really appreciate it and thank you for using my links. Big thumbs up!

I have built mine in all PLA, with varying infills, and I have for the most part not had any problems. The top-plate rear section likes to break, so I just added some support for that section, and its been fine now. Take a look at all of the Remix stuff because there are a lot of good things you can add to the quad. I have been flying this quad since I built it and I love it. I'm working on building another one now!

Hi shfaxx,
my bet is that it will work just fine with 100% PETg since it did with 100% abs parts too.
Using PLA on the ESC mounts is a good idea to get the arms a little bit stiffer but its not critical.
Have fun building and hopefully flying pretty soon.

Can run 6" props?

No, The blades will just touch. I bought 6" props to start, and then I had to order 5045's

Thanks for the clarification

No problem, thank you for designing the FireFly Pro!!!

Comments deleted.
Comments deleted.

I've made mine, and it's awesome, check the makes. If you could design some feet that would be great. It's the only thing I'm missing. I have a piece of foam on the bottom, but It would be nice to be able to put some feet on it. If anyone has any ideas, please share them.

When I say feet, I mean landing gear.

The tutorial calls for spacers in the first picture. No where in the tutorial is a spacer mentioned. Standoff is however mention. Spacers do not have threads, standoffs do. What is the right part?

Standoffs are the right thing to get

Where can I find the 22mm spacers and the 4 dampeners? Any help would be appreciated.

The ones in the link seem to be the right size.
You may have to make your own spacers if you cant find the right ones. Just buy a size close to 22mm and shorten them with a saw.
You could also print them.

Damn, I didn't think of that. Found them.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1606960

22mm M3 spacer for Firefly Pro

Great and excellent work, Firefly1504!

Thank you for every (many) hour you invest in this construction!

Best regards
Alfred

Dec 29, 2016 - Modified Jan 2, 2017

"Start by screwing in all four ESC mounts to the lower plates."

The next screenshot...

"Make sure you orient the ESC mount so the closed sides of the cable outlet is to the front and back to protect the cables."

Thanks. Now I have to reprint the ESC mounts due to the thread direction.

Thanks for your "useful" critique I changed the order of the mentioned part of the guide to make it clearer and easier to follow. Even though you are the only one complaining.

"Start by screwing in all four ESC mounts to the lower plates."

The next screenshot...

"Make sure you orient the ESC mount so the closed sides of the cable outlet is to the front and back to protect the cables."

Thanks. Now I have to reprint the ESC mounts due to the thread direction. Ffs, what a useless guide.

What kind of transmitter & receiver would you recommend for this build or which one do you like the most?

I'm new to drones but I'd like to build this one for my first.

Nov 17, 2016 - Modified Nov 17, 2016

So the quad looks really cool from the outside but the cable management and accessibility is a nightmare
Accessing the electronics or just the USB port requires you to take the whole top plate (which also holds the arms) apart, and it is all rigged up using M3 screws into the pla, which makes it impossible to remove and put back by hand but also will also eventually break, and it doesn't feel right
Don't get me wrong, it's a great quad to fly but so many things make it structurally weak and time consuming to fix
DEFINITELY NOT FOR NOOBS

I really commend your work!! thank you. Before, I printed some parts (battery stoppers etc.) for my quad, but I plan to use your design to build a new one in the future. My question is that I just could not differentiate the pro and the regular one. Have you already made a compare-contrast list? I searched but could not find it. Again, I appreciate your effort.

Oct 24, 2016 - Modified Oct 24, 2016

I have 20A Afro race spec ESC's they are just a bit large for the arm supports. any chance you can provide ones to have clearance for 19.5mm wide and 29mm in length? :D Cheers!

try out the bigger version MannyJayBustos made:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1195369

will be Laser Cutting this out of Plexi or lexand. I will be laser cutting all parts that are flat. i will print the other parts out of pla. Will i have to scale anything for printing? or is the download 100% scaled?

it should work fine as is

How will this hold up after a crash i mean if i hit it with 15km on a tree will it shatter i a bilion pieces?

This will be my fist quad build and I was wondering how easy this is for an inexperienced person to put it all together and how easy it is to get used to flying it with control. Also if I build this do I need fpv goggles or can i hook it up to some type of screen. And how fast does it fly?

1) Any first quad build from scratch is going to have a steep learning curve, like knowing all of the components that you NEED, what hardware you want, or may have (as far as the bolt patterns match up with the frame). Then, routing your wires and making it as tidy as possible, whilst making sure everything is hooked up correctly and working properly along the way.

2) You can fly any quad with fpv if you have a camera, video transmitter and antenna, a receiver, and a display. Or just fly it line of sight.

3) It can be as fast as you want it to be.

Good Luck!

It is definetly not the easiest build because of the flat profile of the quad. You don't need goggles you can use a monitor however video goggles gives the best experience for most people. You should research how to build up a quadcopter and what components you want to use and what radio and so on.
The first quadcopter is a time consuming build if you want to do it right.
The speed depends on the components you choose to build with.
Try learning as much about the topic as you can before attempting your first build. Watch youtube videos of people building quads and read some articles in oscar liangs blog for example.
And first and foremost have fun

I just received my ESC : http://www.banggood.com/DYS-XM-Seris-XM20A-BLHeli-mini-20A-ESC-For-High-KV-Power-Electronic-Speed-Controller-p-1021885.html
The one you are recommending
But they don't fit in the ESC mounts
Could you modify your object to make the hole little bit longer and larger?
Would be really nice ! Thank you

In the meantime, I will have to cut through

Oct 20, 2016 - Modified Oct 20, 2016
redeathray - in reply to dawah

Me too this really is annoying i hope he fixes that soon, I'll try to modify them but I only have stls...
EDIT: I found a model on thingiverse that sould do the trick: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1195369
The ones that should work are the files named Quickchangebig

Hey Janik Prophet,

The frame is ready and we already ordered some parts but I cant find the right propellers, can you advise me which one are the best?

Probably need some help too for electronics, is there any information available about it?

Great design by the way!

I made a list of possible electronics. Also take a look at the racer star motors on bang good they are soooo cheap and seem to be good quality.
I would get dalprop 5045x3 if you want durable props that take a beating and good thrust performance.

Almost everything to get you in the air
The motors for your build should have between 2300kv and 2800kv there are a lot of choices out there and its like most of the things in the RC world you have to decide how much money you want to spend.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__91632__MultiStar_V_Spec_2205_2350KV_Multi_Rotor_Motor_CW_15LAM_.html
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-BE1806-2300KV-Brushless-Motor-Black-Edition-for-Multicopters-p-946416.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/One-Pair-DYS-SE2205-2300KV-3-5S-Brushless-Motor-CW-CCW-for-FPV-Racing-p-1043442.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Emax-RS2205-2600KV-RS-2205-2600KV-Racing-Edition-CWCCW-Brushless-Motor-for-FPV-Multicopters-p-1041930.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

You will also need ESCs (electronic speed controllers). I recommend going for the xm20a from DYS or similar.
http://www.banggood.com/DYS-XM-Seris-XM20A-BLHeli-mini-20A-ESC-For-High-KV-Power-Electronic-Speed-Controller-p-1021885.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

as flightcontroller you'll have a broad variety of choices. You could use a cc3d and then flash beta flight on it which is very cheap, You could also take a look at one of the newer FCs which have integrated OSD (on screen display) and/or video transmitters.
You better make your own decision there.
Different flavours of Flight controllers:
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Racer-250-Drone-Spare-Part-CC3D-Flight-Controller-With-Flexiport-p-1012630.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/LUX-32-bit-Processor-Flight-Controller-Support-PPM-or-Serial-RX-For-Multirotor-Racing-p-1060964.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-NAZE32-SP-Racing-F3-Flight-Control-6-DOF-10-DOF-for-Milticopter-p-1010232.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
Integrated SD-Card Slot to record flight data:
http://www.banggood.com/F3-Mini-Flight-Controller-STM32F303-With-MicroSD-Card-Slot-for-Multirotor-Racing-p-1055207.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
Integrated OSD:
http://www.banggood.com/Emax-Skyline32OSD-Skyline32-Acro-Flight-Controller-with-OSD-p-1045070.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

As PDB (power distribution board) I like the Matek PDB with integrated Lipo warner (Low voltage warner) which also is switchable by the transmitter if you can't find the quad after a crash.
http://www.banggood.com/Matek-LED-POWER-HUB-5in1-V3-Power-Supply-Board-BEC-5V-12v-Low-Voltage-Alarm-Tracker-p-1019353.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
As camera take the 700tvl fatshark camera (because of the size)
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-600TVL-CMOS-V1-Fixed-Mount-FPV-Camera-NTSC-PAL-p-917920.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
I tested a few other cams in similar size and all of them had a very dark picture.
If you choose an FC without video transmitter you can get one of these. They are very small and work great for me (these are also very cheap).
http://www.banggood.com/Upgrade-TX5828-40CH-5_8G-600MW-RP-SMA-Female-FPV-Transmitter-p-1022653.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-TS5840-Upgraded-40CH-5_8G-200mW-Wireless-AV-Transmitter-TX-for-FPV-Multicopter-p-1033810.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Skyzone-FPV-TS5813S-5_8G-25mW-40CH-Mini-AV-Wireless-Transmitter-For-Mini-Multicopter-QAV250-p-1021364.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

If you want an OSD the micro minimOSD is a very versatile choice. You can monitor your batterie voltage, receiver reception and many more.
http://www.banggood.com/CC3D-Flight-Controller-Mini-OP-OSD-For-FPV-Multicopter-p-1009911.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Additional parts will be
video goggles,
(This is a hole category in itself but I will leave a few links here)
FIRST CATEGORY: (from expensive to less expensive, and also from better resolution to worse resolution)
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-Fat-Shark-Dominator-HD-V2-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-Headset-p-1008009.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-Dominator-V3-FPV-Video-Goggles-Glasses-WVGA-720p-HDMI-800X480-p-1000597.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Fatshark-Fat-Shark-Attitude-V3-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-Headset-Support-3D-p-1008008.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/FatShark-Fat-Shark-Teleporter-V5-FPV-Goggles-5_8G-7CH-Video-Glasses-Headset-p-1041414.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

SECOND CATEGORY: (Mono-Display-Goggles same order as before)
http://www.banggood.com/Skyzone-SJ-V01-5_8G-40CH-FPV-Goggles-7-Inch-1280x800-HD-Video-Glasses-with-HDMI-Input-p-1041124.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-Goggles-One-5-Inch-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-HD-1080p-72-Degree-HDMI-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-p-1043694.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-EV800-5-Inches-800x480-FPV-Goggles-5_8G-40CH-Raceband-Auto-Searching-Build-In-Battery-p-1053357.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/KDS-Kylin-Vision-64CH-5_8G-Full-Band-FPV-Goggles-5-Inch-VR-Headset-with-Battery-p-1053030.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-VR-007-5_8G-40CH-HD-FPV-Goggles-Video-Glasses-4_3-Inch-With-7_4V-800mAh-Battery-p-960761.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Things that matter with FPV goggles are FOV(Field of view (higher is better but stay between 30 and 50 degrees for the best flying experience)) and screen resolution (higher is better of cause) and the price.

battery straps,
http://www.banggood.com/10pcs-DUPU-Li-Po-Battery-Fixation-Magic-Tape-Straps-For-RC-Model-p-1040351.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
LiPos,
Get a few 3s Lipos if you are a beginner, but not to many you will be flying 4s sooner as you think. Also do not buy LiPos with a C-Rating lower than 40C.
LiPo charger,
http://www.banggood.com/SkyRC-IMAX-B6-Digital-RC-AC-Lipo-Li-polymer-Battery-Balance-Charger-p-912239.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
FPV antennas
http://www.banggood.com/AOMWAY-5_8G-3dBi-RP-SMA-Male-Four-Lobe-RHCP-VTxVRx-FPV-Antenna-p-978264.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L
(Make sure the connector fits your video transmitter (RP-SMA/SMA))

A rule of thumb is don't take the cheapest stuff and start by imitating other fpv pilots.
This is much information for one comment but if you want to build a quadcopter some reading and learning is involved. With the list of products I recommended you have a good starting point for your first build.
If you have any further questions don't hesitate to ask.
Happy flying

If you are using my links you are supporting my future projects.

Thanks for your reply! I already ordered most of the parts with your links, but there are some parts missing on the list.

Can't figure out which propellers and battery are the best, can you advise me?

what is the recommended infill on theses parts?

Use a high infill on the arms and esc holders like 75%. The rest of the frame something like 45%.

In the process of printing mine and ordering parts now. Total noobie to quads, any recommendations on transmitters? I am using Bang good for almost everything else. A middle of the line model is what I am after, don't want to go all in yet, but at the same time, don't want to waste my money on garbage.

I can recommend the Flysky th9x. I am using it myself and think its a very good transmitter and the community did a good documentation of how you set it up and how you can upgrade it with for example a backlight display other firmware, speech module and so on.
I am using it with the stock firmware and am very happy with it. There are many modules out there which you can upgrade to for example an UHF module for long range or FrSky module for different receivers.

http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-FlySky-Upgrade-FS-TH9X-FS-TH9XB-2_4G-9CH-RC-Remote-Control-Transmitter-Mode-2-p-47904.html?p=BQ31181713038201505L

Is the parts list in the Tipps section for the Firefly or the Firefly Pro...or will they work for both?

Jul 17, 2016 - Modified Jul 17, 2016
Firefly1504 - in reply to jherms7

It works for both. The only difference between the lists are the ESCs and the motors.

Thank you! Any other key resources as I gather my parts list and prepare to build would be much appreciated. Thank you for all of the effort you have put into this, it is very much appreciated.

This thing was a pleasure to print and fit together great. Nice job! I used PLA this time but next time I want to try doing a carbon fiber / pla laminate on certain pieces, such as the limbs.

Are the ESC mounts only for keeping the cables tidy? Or does it help with the structural strength of the arms? Because if it's possible to print without it, the sides could also be removed and everything spaced by spacers. I'm going to do a strength test of the arms on there own and will share results.

The integrity of the arms is very low without the esc mounts. The frame itself will be very easy to bend with only spacers. The arms are just plane flat 3D printed if you aren't printing in a very rigid plastic they won't hold up very well without the esc mount.

update: i tested the arm by screwing it into a table and attached my motor (1800kv) and a 3 blade 5045 prop and went full throttle, seemed to have held and not much bend. i think with the carbon fiber mix it will definitely hold

i've printed the entire thing in PLA to test, however i will be printing the final in a PLA/Carbon Fiber mix (80/20) so it will have some added stiffness through the entire frame.

Nice keep us updated on your build

What is the fight time and distance for the firefly?

With mini quads this size you'll get around 4-5 min flight time with a 1300-1400mah LiPo

Great work! Thank you for your effort! I've made one - using G10 tho :)

One thing I've noticed is that with 2204 or similar motors the cutouts for the cables could be deeper - that is motor guards a bit larger as with some motors (synnyskys for instance) the cables (heatshrink actually) are too stiff resulting in them being exposed. In case of crash may end badly.

Excellent work. You have saved me days of work.

May 6, 2016 - Modified May 6, 2016

Fanstastic work as usual ! I almost eligible for the "I made One" section !

I noticed the m2 holes in the ESC mounts, why didn't you add the coresponding holes on the arms for securing ? I see a lot of "Makes" with zip ties... it's a shame isn't it ? Wouldn't be neat with m2x6 or 8 ?

What do you think ?

Is there somewhere that says which filament to use to build this?

I'd recommend abs but you can take whatever you want.

Where are these feets supposed to be mounted?

under each motor to keep the cables tidy.

Apr 12, 2016 - Modified Apr 12, 2016
andreas-bit - in reply to Firefly1504

btw: they do not really fit on your M3 arms. I mean the holes fit, but the tunnel is not straight/parallel to the arm. It differs by 4 or 5 degrees.

http://imgur.com/gDghKCC

Yeah, I noticed that too. I also had to mirror them to work with my EMAX RS motors.

Oh thanks a lot I didn't noticed that.

ah okay just for cable management. thought they do what the sound like ;-)

Awesome! Can I mix your 3D parts with actual Vortex Pro parts? (does the scaling match) Thanks :)

I never had a chance to test it but I don't think it will fit.

Can you share the source file? I'd love to make some change for my personal build!

I used the long XM20A series ESCs on my latest build of the firefly. I can recommend using these but not yet on the firefly pro. However I am making a new version of the ESC mount to fit these longer ESCs

Understand.

I think you will say no...but...would 8" props fit this quad?

No, 5-6 inch max.

So i built this as my first ever quad, and i absolutely love it!! (pics and video coming soon!) A few things:

  • I used the DYS BL20A ESCs as recommended. The ESC mounts were not large enough to accomodate both the board and wires as shipped, and I'm not great with modifying models so I had to take an xacto and add about 3-4mm of length to the cutouts. Im not sure how they could possibly fit otherwise unless you de-soldered them and used your own wires perhaps?
  • Looking for a way to mount my Xiaomi Yi to this guy.. have had little success with other mounts out there in getting them to fit. Any suggestions?
Mar 2, 2016 - Modified Mar 2, 2016

Source for dampeners anyone? I made the mistake of paying entirely too much for some huge huge DJI ones off amazon.. did not realize the size! Preferably a USA source.. turns out this will be the one thing that may delay my build finish this weekend :( Lowes? Home Depot? Local Hobby shop?

Do you have a source for the 22mm long standoffs?

Do I need to print 2 x esc mounts as a left/right pair?

I edited the names of the parts to make things clearer. You need 2 ESC mount v6r and two ESC mount v6l.

I would say yes, otherwise it won't be symmetric and you will have problems to put the wires correctly

Great looking frame! Any video of it flying?

What is the difference in esc mount final v2 and the V6R? I am planning on using BL20As and some EMAX 2204 2300KVs - should I go v6r?

Feb 19, 2016 - Modified Feb 19, 2016
Firefly1504 - in reply to jb901

You need both. The difference between the two is the direction of the cable outlet

Thanks for all your work . This is an awesome quad that you brought to everyone who cant afford the 500 dollar ish price tag or someone who wants to build and modify there own.... Thanks for sharing .

Kija's build looks awesome. The FF Pro is going to be my first quad and first build. One thing I noticed is lots of talk of screw sizes, but, little to nothing on what secures the screws. M2/3 hex nuts? or are they just tight enough to hold together without??

Feb 18, 2016 - Modified Feb 18, 2016
Kija - in reply to jb901

I'm still a bit worried about this myself. Right now my screws are all M3, 6mm, 8mm 12mm and 16mm. They're all just holding in the plastic. I'm wondering if I'll need to add something to make the threads tighter (a drop of hot glue? I read thread lock might dissolve PLA but I didn't try)

Generally the holes are tight enough to hold the screws inside. But if you are worried maybe try simple superglue as thread lock.
I thought about an ESC mount with threaded inserts so you have a metal thread and a biggersuruace area that holds the screw. However I didn't wanted to overcomplicate the quad.

Tell me if there is a demand for a stronger ESC mount I will do my best to upload another version with threaded inserts.

Another and I guess easier way would be to get M3x25MM screws and bolt them from the downside all the way trough the lower plate, ESC mount and upper plate and the secure it with self locking nuts on the upper side.

I would like a thread insert version if it wouldn't be to much trouble. My parts fit together pretty tight, but I can't help but think that at some point it is going to break apart.

I very much enjoyed building this quad. It was a great experience. I just can't wait for the snow to melt and try flying it!.

Forgive me if this has already been asked, but, what is the difference between the Firefly and the Firefly Pro? i just realized i printed the main frame from the standard and the arms from the pro and they obviously don't match up:)

They are completely different quads. The Pro is a 250 sized quad the other is a 280 sized with foldable carbon fibre arms.

Update 10/02/16:
Finally finished and added the Firefly Pro Guide to the website. Sorry for the delay on this one.
Happy flying!

http://firefly1504.com/fireflyproguide.html

nice one !

what motor, controller, etc. do you use ?
the ESC is the Bl20a, right ?

Yes BL20A or same size ESCs. I am using a Matek PDB with LiPo warner etc. a cc3d flight controller with Betaflight and Dragonfly MC1806 motors.

I'm a little bit confused. What ESC do you use for a perfect fit into the arms??? I thought I can use my 12A EMAX Simon K but they do not work!? The space that I can use for the ESC in the arms is something around 26mm length and 12-14mm in width. Or did I make a mistake in printing? Can someone give me a recommendation for a ESC?

nice work mate, do you have solidworks file by any chance ? thanks

When the top plate is made from PLA at 50% infill is it suppose to be so flexible? Will i be fine, because it bends a lot. When i put everything together will it be durable or what?

Yes it will if you combine the vertikal and horizontal parts it will be pretty stiff.

Oh okay thanks!

Wow i'd like to build this and go back to FPV Racing. what infill and resolution would be advisable for this? (example for the arms, main plates etc..) also whats the target weight for the kit frame only (no electronics yet) thanks guys.

Hey thanks for your comment. I am personally printed the plates in 23% infill and the arms with slightly more infill like 25%. I never weight the parts but in cure they are estimated with around 102 grams.

Thanks for the awesome reply sir firefly! :) hahaha! i'll surely try this. i'll print it on PLA. :) what size of screws did you use for building them together? how many do i need? :) great job on the fireflypro by the way! :) im a huge fan. :)

Hi,

what material are you guys using? would petg be a good choice?

also when will the build instructions be on the website?

one more question, will the electronics of the vortex pro fit in there?

I personally print in abs but pets will work fine. I am working on the instructions but am very busy in the last few weeks. I am doing my best to push this out as soon as possible. I will also publish an electronics guide. The Vortex Pro PDB will not fit the firefly pro. Maybe when I am getting my hands on one of them I will redesign it to fit.

Could you use screws that go all the way through

Yes you could also use screws that go all the way through. Its just a pain in the butt if you want to unscrew the top i guess.

That to know :)

Jan 9, 2016 - Modified Jan 9, 2016

I have tried to put the FVT LittleBee 20A inside, but the ESC mounts are too tight ! Too bad, these ESCs are really good...

http://www.banggood.com/FVT-LittleBee-20A-ESC-BLHeli-OPTO-2-4S-Supports-OneShot125-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1007740.html

I am having a look at this. did you remove the heat shrink?

Yes, and the problem is with the wires (just barely enough space for the board, but with the 3 wires going to the motor and the 2x2 to the boards), it would require at least a rectangle of 31mm x 14mm (x 5mm height).

Many thanks !

Hi, cooler Copter, gefällt mir sehr gut. Wäre es möglich die Arme, Top- und baseplate als dxf hochzuladen. Würde mir die teile gerne aus Carbon fräsen.
Grus micha

Hi, bin gerade an einem Remix dran. Wollte mir die Arme auch in CFK fräsen. Hab schon alle flachen Teile in DXF umgewandelt, fehlen nur noch ein paar kleinere Änderungen. Kommt die Tage dann...

HI hast du den Remix bzw die DXF schon fertig ?

Super, bin gespannt!

Fräst du mir auch was? =)

@First what a nice effort. Keep up the good work. Thx
And the best wishes for 2016 !!!!!!!

Is it possible to obtain just the dxf's 2D for those with acces to a cnc machine ?

Thx in advance
Greetings from Belgium

Are these parts drop in replacements to the ImmersionRC Vortex 250 Pro? Thanks!

Not yet. By the time I designed them the Vortex 250 was in its early prototype stage and not released. Now that it is commercially available I am reworking the parts. Maybe they can be replacements in the future. I will keep you updated about this topic in the details tab.
Happy new year everybody

Thanks!

Great design ! What FPV camera is supposed to fit inside ? I mainly have these : http://www.banggood.com/Eachine-700TVL-13-Cmos-FPV-110-Degree-Camera-w32CH-Transmission-p-965760.html

Thank you !

Thank you ! I have ordered one, and printing the parts meanwhile...

Thank you for your reply ! I will order it, then...

Jan 1, 2016 - Modified Jan 1, 2016
experimentalgp - in reply to sico2819

These are what I currently use, though you will need to use the remix top plate and bumper.

http://www.surveilzone.com/26%2A26mm-Plastic-Case-13-CMOS-700TVL-Mini-CMOS-Camera-Super-WDR-g-1414

Dec 31, 2015 - Modified Jan 1, 2016

is it possible to move the front standoff holes 3mm outward on either side and make the opening on the bottom bumper slightly bigger, and the opening on the top plate bigger, so i can fit my Sony HS1178 26x26mm camera? That is the only problem i had, i managed to get it to fit with some cutting of the top plate and bottom bumper but i definitely made the frame weaker by doing that which sucks. otherwise I LOVE THIS FRAME it is way better the the original firefly for sure. keep up the great work and thanks for making the 3mm arms. I posted some pictures i need a new esc on one of the arms but hope to get that today and i will give this thing a test flight :)

Just completed the remix to support 26x26 board cameras. Enjoy,

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1238501

Firefly Pro - FPV Camera Remix

did you get the Guide made for the pro yet
and what are you using for the drone kit ? the electronics and controller I am new to the drones any help would be great
Thanks

If I was you I would use a naze 32 flight controller, any 18 - 20 amp ESC's (make sure that they are rated for both 3 and 4 cell batteries) and whatever 2204 sized motors you want. The emax ones are good value for money. On top of that you will need a power distribution board, I recommend getting one with a built in BEC as you will need a 5v power supply for your camera and flight controller, and it saves you the hassle of adding yet another part.

After that its just wires, receiver and FPV gear, which will depend on what brand of transmitter / screen or goggles you want to use. Have fun with your build, it may seem daunting at first, but its actually quite simple once you get your head around it, and oh so much more rewarding than buying a ready to fly kit!

I finished printing this but i just realized i need arms that will work with 2204 motors M3 please

Yeah you are right I totally forgot about a second set of arms. I will upload today.

thanks so much i cant wait :)

Arms are up

The center hole for the motor mounting needs to be larger, for motors with exposed shafts like the sunnysky 2204 2300kv for example.

Dec 29, 2015 - Modified Dec 29, 2015
Firefly1504 - in reply to DroneKarma

oh ok I'll take care of that. Thanks

Edit: I uploaded a new version.

thanks alot gonna start the print and put it all together tomorrow

Dec 27, 2015 - Modified Dec 27, 2015

Printing this right now, Anyway its gonna take me like 8 hours to print this wish me luck ;) I hope to see a 35 degree camera mount added in the future. FireFly1504 is it possible for you to design a X frame like this http://s1279.photobucket.com/user/Armattanquads/media/Armattanquads099/Screen%20Shot%202015-11-07%20at%2011.22.28%20PM_zps0j9k2rcl.png.html

wondering when you are going to post the building instructions on your site. Thanks.

Hi Firefly1504,
Do you think you could make a reclined mount for the gopro session for the Vortex 250 Pro?
Thanks - Silaxe

I was wondering what hardware you used to assemble it, as I am keen on printing and using your great model.

You only need 24x M3x15 and 8x M2x10 for the build. If you want to add stability to the bumper also get 2x 19mm standoffs with M3 threads.
You also need screws to secure your motors. 16x M2x10 screws should be more then enough for this.
Have fun building.

how does the camera mount work. Just wondering

I have been using it since 3 month or so and its working good for me at least.

Thanks for the new parts.

Any luck with the final parts?

Yes I am on it I will upload tomorrow.

the 275mm arms/frame world be very nice. 6x4 props fit but they don't like to.

On the original vortex 250, it has some pieces under the motor mounts. Any plans to create those?

Comments deleted.

Hey buddy, I have a request. Do you think you could do a remix on the original firefly and make the arms fixed like the 250?

Good work on this and the original!!!

I did something similar for the square booms that are sold by rcexplorer. I can definitely do it but I will leave the hinge as is and make a remix on the C-clips so that they are no clips anymore but a brackets with a hole for the arm.
Merging these parts into one big clunky peace would just be a pane in the butt to print and also weigh more than it needs with no strengh benefits.
I'll post it as soon as possible. Thanks for your request.

I'm not sure if you want to know about issues with alignment, if you do, id like to share them with you. do you have facebook so we can chat?

Dec 11, 2015 - Modified Dec 12, 2015
MannyJayBustos - in reply to moneymike

Funny I have had no issues with printing .Everything is built up to date and assembled . I am adding the electronics this weekend. And will have the first fly this weekend to if the weather holds.

Update. I had a fly this morning and it flew awesome . Supper locked, it flew all maneuvers great i had 3 small crashes no damage . Cant wait for the last few pieces. Thanks for sharing.

good to hear that your build went well send us some pictures of your build when you are ready.

Just send me a message via thingiverse. You can go on my profile and in the lower left menu there is a button for direct messages.

Thanks for the side plates . Cant wait for the bottom plate. Once again thanks for sharing.

Any Idea when the side plates will be done? Thanks for sharing .

Yes I will do the other parts soon. The plates under the lower plate (bumper) and also the little standoff things under the motors.

Any chance you could also share dxf files for those who want to cnc a firefly pro? Keep up the awesome work!

Great job! Firing up the printer now.

Thanks everybody for the appreciation.

Are the other plates and sides ready?

It looks awesome !
I will definitvely print it as soon as I can !

Nice work! It looks much better than ZMR250 design. What is the AUW?

Its design is inspired by the all new Vortex 250 Pro from immersion. AUW is depending on your rig and lipo. 500g-700g seems realistic to me.

when will all the files be rdy

I am working on it. The arms will be uploaded today as well as the upper plate and the sites. I still got a little misalignment on the lower plate with the bumpers. But should not take to long.

Didn't mean to sound pushy it's just a great looking drone and I would love to print it take your time looks great

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