Rostock Max Effector Platform - Fan Shroud Combo

by jimustanguitar Dec 2, 2015
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This platform ROCKS!!!!! I just printed it with a PETG/Carbon Fiber Very nice

Glad it works for you!!

How have I not seen this before!!

I've just updated to those traxxas ball joints and that looks perfect!

Does it work ok printed in PLA or is a different material expected/required?

ABS can withstand higher heat, so I'd advise that. It certainly could work with PLA, there would just be a higher risk of it possibly melting, that's all.

Well unfortunately, after tearing down my hot end, it turns out while the hole dimensions are correct for the SeeMeCNC ball and socket arms, the design is not complete, not having 'posts' over the holes that would normally secure the ball pair in place. Without these posts, there is no way to secure the ball pair to the effector. Time to put everything back together....

It turns out that SeeMeCNC changed the dimensions for their ball socket arms, and I was going off of an old drawing. Check out BlitzJon's remix of the design. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1284511

Sorry for the mixup. I'll add a note to the description on mine to save other people the hassle in the future.

Rostock Max v2 Effector/Fan Shroud Combo Alt


thanks for the reply. Found that shortly after commenting on yours. Hot end is back together, going to print that one now.

Great design you have here ! It's printing ... :)
But do you know of a source for these fans other than SeemeCNC ?
At 12 USD they are prretty expensive, and shipping and customs from US makes it almost too expensive for us Europeans.
So a European or Chinese source would be preferable.

I looked once or twice, but didn't find much that was better without buying in quantity. Of course I don't need any right now, but it's always good to keep your ear to the ground on this sort of thing. bfb0312ha is the model number. Let me know if you find anything!

I like this design a lot. With the standard layer fan ducts I am getting a lot of heat loss at the nozzle and I typically have to increase my target temperature by 5-8 degrees to keep it within the originally intended temperature zone. Do you see a lot less nozzle heat loss with this design?

I'm guessing this would preclude the use of a Trick Laser LED ring: It looks like the airflow would hit the LED ring and deflect, rather than flowing at the print. Is that correct?

With some of the other fan ducts that I've worked with, the air blows directly on the heater block and cools everything down. This design doesn't blow air directly at the nozzle, so you ought to be ok.

Yeah, I haven't done one that included clearance for Brian's light ring yet... Nice catch.

You have to make any tweaks to parameters for this? When I perform tower calibration, all 3 points are raised which knocks nearly 2" off my print diameter.

Nevermind. I forgot how tedious full calibration was. I went from 144 radius to 142. All is well.