Loading
CorrugatorSupercilii

Ultimaker 2 Clone + Ramps 1.4 = Cheap and Cheerful!

by CorrugatorSupercilii Dec 6, 2015
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

你好,很高兴我从你的方案种制造了一台,但是我发觉我打印出来的东西,圆形都会变成椭圆了,我不知道怎么处理,你可以帮我解决下吗!谢谢!
Hello, I'm glad I made one from your project, but I found that the circle will become an ellipse when I print it out. I don't know how to deal with it. Can you help me solve it? Thank you!

Hi,

Very impressed by this build as I am wanting to create something very similar for myself without breaking the bank.
The print quality of this printer looks fantastic! How did you go about wiring the parallel dual cooling fans + the hot end fan into the RAMPS board?

Thanks

Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, so I figured I would post here. Assembled the body and all the electronics, then programmed a normal Mega 2560. When I powered it on, it wasn't sending power to the RAMPS board. If I plugged them in separately, it seemed to run somewhat properly (other than some temps reading strangely). Any possible fix? I can take/post photos if necessary.

Comments deleted.

Hi, first of all thanks for the good job doing this!!!
I'd ordered the parts from RobotDigg and found out that the brass bushing 8x10x22mm link at BOM opens a 8x11x22 bushing at RobotDigg site...
Is this a typo error or the stl files have to be edited so we can use de 11mm OD bushing?

Thanks in advance...

Hello,
That link has expired, no longer indicates the same item, if you had already brought it. You can probably still use the updated XY block

See: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1644564

It comes in 2 halves, should be able to accommodate the tolerances

Upgrades for Ultimaker 2 Clone with RAMPS 1.4 ver1.01

Great! Thanks for the support!!!
And yes I bought the new one... I looked for the 8x10x22 at RD and it seems like they are not available anymore...

Hi there,
one question; in the documentation CorrugatorSupercilii mentions that AMS1117 voltage regulator can be replaced with step down DC-DC regulator (http://www.icstation.com/step-down-module-power-supply-p-2734.html) to convert 12v to 5v for arduino. Next, its worth to mention that my electrical eng. knowledge is limited:) But anyways, since the regulator is overheating, this is what I wanted to do, although without sucess. Did anyone suceed in wiring of this DC-DC to Arduino? If someone could share the pic or instruction on how to do that I would be really grateful. Thanks for reading this;)

Hello,

I suggest watching this video:
https://youtu.be/giGRrODKJSE

It explains the difference between a linear regulator (AMS1117) and switching regulator (similar to the ones I suggested in documentation)

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2PCS-Supper-mini-3A-DC-DC-3V-5V-16V-Converter-Step-Down-buck-Power-Supply-Module-/272041589059?hash=item3f56f13943:g:5x0AAOSwaeRZJ9Yy

Hi, thanks for your reply. I've watched the video and it helped in basic understanding. But. Something I still do not understand. Does it mean that one single GND pin on Arduino connects to both grounds from Vin and Vout on the buck converter?

Hello,

Yes, that is correct (99.9% of the time, I would like to think, unless it is isolated, which is very unlikely).

To make sure, you should have a digital multi-meter handy, set it to continuity (the settings with beeped sound when both probe contacts meet), you will know for sure Vout and Vin ground pins are shorted.

Okay, thanks for the clarification! This will help me a lot.

Hey Guys... one Question... i also use Ramps 1.4 and an Olssen Clone Hotend. There is an PT100 as Thermistor without an Pullup i think... is there a config in marlin? I can not find something equal.... Thanks a lot!

Hi,
is there an alternative files for all 8mm or at least 10mm rods! instead of rainbow 6,8,12!? lol
for this build size , 8 is more than enough for all axis , bigger guilt over 300 , then 10mm and 12 mm on z , is better than 8. but seriously why 6, 8 and 10! when it can all be done easily on 8mm or 10mm !

lol*1e^9 I am waiting for you to do that! ¯_(ツ)_/¯

I'm on it! Lol
Send me your cad files and I'll modify them all

Hi! I really like your work on this build and I've started printing and gathering the parts, is there enough room for 48mm long steppers for x,y and z axes? I am worried the z motor would be too long and collide with the bottom or the x/y motor would interfere with the build plate or something else I haven't taken into account. Thanks!

Hello,

It might be possible, but not without modifications...

Z-axis: the bottom may not have enough clearance (see 2nd photo above), IF you use the same Z-rods length
X/Y axis: the aluminium build plate may not have enough clearance, you can see it from the top view photo, steppers left and right

Comments deleted.

I was looking for an alternative to the ultimaker board for the http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:811271 design, and then found your mod.

This is awesome, I'll (try to) build the UM2 Extended version (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1100186) for less than 420 euros (440 USD). The additional cost for the Extended version only represents 50 euros; additinal cost for 2020 aluminum, 12mm rods and lead screw for Z axis, so why not build the biggest one.

I can salvage some stepper motors and electronics from my old prusa i3 and save about 100 euros, but I'll keep it as a secondary printer.

Ultimaker 2 Aluminum Extrusion 3D printer
Ultimaker 2 Extended Aluminum Extrusion 3D Printer
by spoos

First off, awesome build guide! I cant wait to get started.

In your build manual, you used a 100k NTC thermistor for the heat bed sensor. How was this installed on the bed? The UM2 aluminum heat bed you used comes with a PT 100B sensor installed, but the Ramps board needs a $20 amplifier board to read this sensor. Trying to keep the cost down, I’m wondering if I can just use the thermistor as you did.

Also, was the use of a 24 volt power supply just to achieve quicker heating of the heat bed? I currently have a 12 volt power supply that I would like to use if possible. But I would want be sure the UM2 heat bed can run on 12V, and that I didn’t overlook any other detail in swapping to a 12 volt supply.

Comments deleted.

No don't use Ultimaker temp sensor. I don't think seller from China includes these sensors. So for me I am using 100K NTC, and Kapton tape is good to ensure adhesion on the bottom side.

You can't use 12V option, unlike MK2 heatbeds, the Ultimaker heatbed is meant for 24V only.

RAMPS can actually switch 24V, I was looking to update the documentaion with an alternative wiring, without using the additional DC solid state relay, but since they are so cheap...

Thanks for the reply, I will go the 24 volt route then, and replace the heat bed sensor with a thermistor.

Have you ever had any trouble with the build platform? Just looking at the way ultimaker has the designed their build platform to be so cantilevered leaves me scratching my head. In several pictures of your build, as well as others, I see the build platform is sagging slightly in the front. I would want to distribute the support more evenly to prevent this. Also, Im currently using 2 lead screws, each powered by a 40mm NEMA 17 stepper, on my prusa. Feels lacking to go down to a single lead screw. But if it works, right?

Comments deleted.

I am attempting to put this together and the X-Y mechanism of the gantry seems pretty stiff. Everything seems to move OK until I get the belts and carriage on and then the mechanism seems a lot tighter than what I have experienced when building the Prusa I3. Can anyone comment on how theirs has turned out? I have not applied power to the motors yet, but I am concerned about their ability to turn the shafts.

I had the same problem, linear bearing jams in the gantry (because it extends beyond the F688ZZ bearings), I took a 9mm drill and extended the gantry holes, and now everything is ok.

I have widened the gantry holes, but it is still really stiff/ The motors aren't quite up to the task of moving in the X/Y directions. I am at a loss at this point as to what to try next.

Hello,

Sorry to hear about your predicament, rest assured... It might just be poor quality smooth rods.

I had the same issues with AliExpress seller. Best source a good quality smooth rod as a reference.

I had captured a video of very stiff movement, this is before I brought new rods from Misumi...
https://youtu.be/qwb5NaNMDyY
https://youtu.be/N-c-Rl_sEdA

I thought of that and bought a set from Misumi with any apparent change. I am going to recheck that my frame is square in all directions, but I did that when I put it together.

Comments deleted.

If you looking 20x20 Aluminum Profile you can find it here -> www.ebay.com/itm/222239534870

Hi, after compiling your design, I got a couple of questions :

  • Did you perform any squaring check of the frame and rods once installed ?
  • You mated good Misumi rod with chinese linear bearing and brass bushing, any excessive play or tightness ?
  • What is the bed you are eventually using for PLA ? ABS ?
    Thanks

Hello!

I don't really know what a squaring check is, presumably that meant the axis are set 90 degrees, answer is no, however I had done basically calibration print of UK coinage, centred on print platform. They look fine, and this calibration has to be perform for each custom build, just make the 'step/mm' adjustment within configuration.h

It might be useful to note, your 3D printer, even the best calibrated ones will have tolerances toward Z print thickness, nozzle size you use, perhaps very large XY dimension prints could fare worst than smaller print, but I suspect it will be negligible

I totally trust Misumi products, only the brass bushing came from China, and there are good, I don't have super precise equipment to be measurement, except a digital caliper, none the less, didn't have issues with the bushing.

The print bed is well suited to use a glass plate from 8x10 picture frame, I am not using special Borosilicate, and had applied Airwolf3D Wolfbite forABS, works like a dream, no warping, in fact the adhesion was so strong I was a bit worried of the pinging sound when it releases itself

Thanks for your detailed explanation that raised few more questions :

  • You wrote you used also Misumi linear bushings but in you BOM their links refer to Robotdigg website.
    Did you get Misumi linear bushings from them ?
    Or you BOM is not correct ?
    Coz LM6LUU or LMK12LUU are not Misumi references but more Aliexpress or THK references, i found for the real Misumi respectively something like xLMUWx6 or xLHFRWx12.

  • You wrote you used the chinese brass bushing. Why did not you consider a good brass or high precision oil free bushing from Misumi for X an Y that would mate perfectly the rods ? since you made your own design for XY slider blocks.

Thanks.

Just use whatever you see fit. When you finished your build, let me know if its better than the original Ultimaker (^_^)b

I have all the hardware together. Some electronic issues still such a AC relay instead of DC Doh...
I used the firmware in the link but the extruders does not run with it through the lcd controller so I think I have a software issue as well.

I hope in the next couple of weeks to have it running...

Not to worry my friend! And just in time! I too have accumulated parts for another build, starting build this weekend, will be here to answer any issues!

Thanks for the offer...I need my DC relays for heat bed and hot end still.
I followed the route of a 24v power supply which in hindsight was probably not the best idea since everything runs off 12v and I ended up getting converters for 12vdc. I thought I would drive he hot end with the RAMPS board but to get a 100w (40w hot end + motors, etc.) down converter is pricy so I ordered a second DC relay and a 24v heating element for the hot end.

Relay ~$4 + $1 for hot end heater.

After reading more it seems like the extruders will not run unless the hotels is hot...seems odd. Do you have this issues as well?

Are you still using the old Marlin version or have you moved to the current build?
I get the current to build but operation is not correct and I will need to do some review of the configuration.h to see the deltas.

LCD is working for both versions.

Not odd at all, it is a feature (in the original firmware) to prevent grinding the filament, if the hot end cannot extrude.

I think that threshold is 90 Tdegc, so somewhere (in the firmware) you can overwrite this.

My build does not use the latest version, that is correct, modification done to this firmware is described in the Google docs...

Do take note, the Arduino board has a 12V to 5V down regulator (a linear regulator), this tends to heat up, my documentation detail this, and how to address it.

I am using a DCDC step-down like link below, it does 60watt (5 amps), for 40w hot end + steppers, it should cope well enough.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181929194745?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

But a separate DC relay certainly works too

I am up and running .... sort of... My extruder is for 3mm not 1.75 which is what I am running so I have to hold the tube so the filiment pushes up the tube. I ordered a new extruder from Alex Exprss for 1.75 :/ So no "first print" yet since I am not going to sit for 30 min monitoring and helping the filament.

I am not sure how I got the extruder working 100%.. I did some playing with pins.h and min temps for it...

My Son's Robo 3D+ lets you move the extruder at any temp for loading/unloading filiment I which I assume is the min temp setting down to like 5 or 10.

Do you have "home" working and a good config for Cura with this version? I have it set to ultimaker 2 but I have to heat, etc. with LCD controller.

I plan on reviewing the Marlin 1.1.0 RC6 Ultimaker vs your 1.0.1 version to see if I can get the same level of functionality working. I figure this might play nicer with Cura.

Thoughts on my approach?

You can probably do a TKDIFF https://sourceforge.net/projects/tkdiff/
That will make it easier to identify what edits I have on my version of firmware VS the new.

Homing works on my (as published here) version of marlin firmware. Note that home bring XY to a corner at the back and Z down to the very bottom.

If you didn't get the travelling speed, be prepared to hear some painful sound from the steppers!

Well not really printing yet but closer.. My hot end keeps jamming..

I got the 1.1 RC 6 Marlin code to mostly work
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxXq4QSAykf4NUFwWVNCM0JuR00&usp=sharing

You need to customize line 500-502 for size of your actual printer.
Also depending on your wiring you may have to switch which way home is...
All changes have // pam on them so I can find my changes.

I cannot get Cura to play nice so I am currently using MatterControl and OctoPrint

I do not have the bed heating working and MatterControl seems to insist on heating the bed to 70C which will never happen so I edit the gcode and drop it in octoprint...

Home and all works but as stated my boden extruder is a bit of a hack with zip ties and tape to try and hold things but now my hot end is jamming up.

I also have a hard time understanding why Ultimaker put the one linear baring mount under instead of both on top? things seem to need to be perfect so it does not pop out.

Started printing today but calibration all whacked out since I am using 1/32 steppers. I have basics now but no chance to do a test print. I am still fighting with mattercontrol and heating the print bed. Even when I say there is no heated bed it insists on trying to heat it to 70c...Still have to hack gcode and use octoprint :( No first print yet but close ... Tomorrow if all goes well.

Fixed hot end issues by putting fan on with power on to RAMPS and slight hack to get ptfe tubing all the way in. Qualit Chinese version of E3D with hole for PTFE tubing which did not let it feed all the way in as described in E3D docs/wiki.
I got what I paid $6 for ;)

If you have a cura Config working I would love to try since I like the way it prints better than mattercontrol but I do wish it had printer controlled like MC does to move print head, platform, etc...

I have Cura 2.1 Beta mostly working. I defended a new printer based off Ultimaker 2 Extended+ since I built mine a bit taller than UM2. Not too hard but I need to consolidate the changes into a single file vs following the UM inhartance. I found some issues with the extruder rate 3mm vs 1.75 but I think I also have this fixed.

I also had to modify the GCODE because Cura just starts printing before zeroing the bed. I presume the UM Firmware must initiate this but I have not yet gotten the UM firmware to work yet. It does not seem to be an easy task.

New Google Drive link to folder with docs including my version of Marlin 1.1.0 R6 code
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0BxXq4QSAykf4a0V0bmdqbklYMkE&usp=sharing

Version of Marlin zip above seems to be calibraded at least for my hardware. I put comments in the configuration.h describing how or links to how I got what I did so others can adjust.

Its Alive!
Picture in "I made" section.

I've update the BOM to include 0.9Deg NEMA17, 48mm, for the extruder drive.
The 1.8deg NEMA17 40mm, had issues with 3mm filament, slipping and under extrusion. All is good about the Ultimaker printer, except the extruder drive, even with the small diameter knurled gear, it is less than perfect.

I am using this one on my 2nd build: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
Going to figure out a way to implement a gearbox drive

I have this design downloaded as well. I will wait and see how the $7 metal one I ordered from alexepress for 1.75mm.

After reading about the new ultimaker geared extruder I have started reading up on versions out there. I'm not in a big rush since I have the other on its way.

I got my relay today so my bed heater is working awesomely!

I'm still using mattercontrole to build gcode since I'm still working out the kinks with cura. I also like that I can control the printer.

I'm busy printing parts like lcd case now I'm up and running. I have an old spark plug gap tool which I have found to be excellent for bed leveling.

I also found a nice gcode that helps with the level process by moving the head to each corner and pausing. I enhanced to to my liking and will put on my google drive later. Pausing does not seem to work on lcd controller from SD card printing so you may need to use MC for it.

I'm not sure if I will continue to pursue the UM2.1 code or not. I did notice the UM Original seems to use standard ramps and lcd so perhaps this is a better path than I have been taking.

My other option is to add in a function for filament change in the standard Marlin build.

Or use google. Doh.
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/3765

I have added my custom JSON files to the google drive for Cura 2.X. I seem to have stability issues with 2.1.1 where it seems to reboot by RAMPS after the bed and head heat up.

I discovered I have inverted prints.. mirror image. I have been reading about other and experimented but to no avail thus far. I have not re-tested this with your supplied firmware to see if it exists there or now...

I have my 0.0.0 position when looking at the front ... in the back left corner. Is this how you have yours? My limit switches are also there other than Z with is at bottom.

I discovered this when printing a case for the LCD and well the slots for SD and holes did not line up Doh...

I have to say the relay to power the print head and hot bed work great.. I got a 24vdc heating element and now the 12vdc is only needed to drive RAMPS and motors, etc. The relay at 40A @32VDC was like $3 USD each shipped. So way overrated for my application and they do not even get warm :)

You can download repetier host to manually control the movement of your printer (that's if you're using the Arduino), observe the motion direction.

https://www.repetier.com/download-now/

And yes, the parked position is back left

I found Repetier a bit confusing.. all what your used to I guess.

I tried some others but keep going back to MatterControl.

I figured out my mirrored problem.

Y_HOME_DIR 1
INVERT_Y_DIR false
moved my end stop connector on the RAMPS from Min to Max position.
commented out... #define USE_YMIN_PLUG
uncommented #define USE_YMAX_PLUG

It homes to back left corner but when it starts to print moves the print head to from left.
I prints are now correctly oriented and not mirrored.

My next tribulation seems to be the printer is globing a bit on the fist layer so some more tuning needed.
Second seems to be that after a few layers it starts to shift off to one side. I found my liner pulleys/rods were not aligned. so well. I have adjusted this and now trying a new print. There are some models to help with this which I will try to print when I am able to have a good print :)... I found these
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/axis-aligner
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81415

While i do not remember reading this in the assembly instructions I was watching an Ultimaker video where they used such a tool.

Axis Aligner for Ultimaker
by owen

How can i install cura for a slicer?
Also, was this design made by jasonatepaint or you?

If you are too lazy to source parts yourself,

Chinese knockoff kit can be had for $285 including shipping.

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/1828072

Hey, nice design, and thanks for making it public.
The slider xy-blocks, what is the purpose of the inside-groove, is it for the ptfe-tensioner tube to be height-adjustable somehow?

The inside groove is for a banana shape tensioner, it's inherited from the original design, don't think it's necessary, using the PTFE tube is good enough.

Thanks for doing this, I really like your design changes. I just started to order the parts for the original design when I came across yours and decided to follow it due to the detailed instructions. I've never built anything like this before so it's a big help. I know some of the stuff from Ali can be questionable, I ordered the linear shafts that have the same dimensions as your build with the 6mm XY rods at 268mm. In a month or so I'll know how the quality is. ;)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-8-pcs-set-OD-6-8-12mm-smooth-rods-Linear-Shaft-Optical-Axis-chrome-plated/32234586700.html

Hello.

Could you share a link where we can see a explanation of how we can wire all the connections motors and hotbed

Regards.

Hi

I am building the UM2 clone with RAMPS1.4 and Repetier software. I'm using the famous 20X20 heatbed from Alie and a $3.00 e3d head.
Still waiting for the rods to arrive.
Tested the Repetier software in a dry run "on the tabel" with the steppers and endstops connected. All works fine.
I'll send some pix when finished.
Nice build and well documented, thank you

Tell me where I can find the size of the aluminum profiles to the printer body?

They should look like these... Wally the hand model (in the documentation) recommended these guys.

http://www.aluminium-profile.co.uk/acatalog/20x20-Aluminium-Profile--KJN992888.html

Comments deleted.

What firmware are people using?

I would like to use the UM2 extended + firmware. I have extended the size in theory to be the same size as the um2 extended.

I see the firmware online but it seems it needs to be a little customized to work on ramps 1.4.

Part of this would be to have the same menus as the UM2, etc. even at some point I might replace the lcd with an oled since it looks so nice.

Hi,

Assuming your could use RAMPS instead, there's isn't any real issue in simply extending the Z-height on Marlin firmware, I reckon few people are limited by Z-height for their prints, which takes a very long time for completion... Also OLED display can't display more information then what you already have or need on a simple LCD, nice indeed but in practical sense, rather trivial, both tells the time so to say (^_^)

Hi,
I see you use the official UM2 heat bed, which is pretty expensive. Is there a difference to to just a generic one?

Also, do you have an other source for aluminium extrusion (or essentially everything you source from them) in europe than misumi? They aparently only ship to businesses as they require a tax id.

The aluminium base plate is also a pretty big chunk in the budget. Maybe this could be replaced by standard aluminium profiles?

The UM2 heat bed is a MCPCB that's thinner (could heat up a bit faster) and larger than RepRap MK3 20x20cm heat bed, needless to say it is design to fit nicely, holes and dimensions etc... But that's not to say the MK3 wouldn't be suitable (electrically it is definitely compatible), you will have to do some drilling on your build plate. I don't actually have access to a workshop drill, as do a lot of people...

The aluminium build plate STEP CAD file is available on Ultimaker's github repository, see my documentation with hyperlinks, I am not sure if you could procure bespoke one (with the STEP file) cheaper/cheaply.

The aluminium extrusions, difficulties with VAT ID and so on... A bummer, the goods from Misumi is however, precision without fault and guaranteed delivery date. 20x20 extrusion can be obtain elsewhere for sure, google can sure help.

I do not recommend buying linear rods from AliExpress sellers, quality is highly questionable.

Cost of Heat bed and build palate were exactly my concern as well, but I don't have any easy solution hence, but I'll be building a 2nd machine (have already printed all the parts from mother machine), still waiting for interested party like you to come up with new/better solutions (^_^)

Hi,

do you think I can use this firmware with MKS Gen too?

Yes, I think it is likely to be compatible, but you have to include drv8825 for 1/32 stepping

Looks awesome, I have always wanted an ultimaker! Why not build it myself xD. Ill see if I can make this over the next few months, I have school to attend to first. Maybe over the summer, I like the printer's cost!

Very timely :) Going to have to steal some of these ideas. Thanks for the upload.

Btw - going through your BOM. . . do you really mean 20 * 10 pcs lots of T Slot, L Shape Bracket?

Phew! Well spotted, thank you very much.

Welcome any improvements you can offer, the more we share the more we have! Building the daughter machine (Clone from this original build) next year.

Alright - on that note :) . . . no big deal, but I had to run the "Endstop PCB Misumi Extrusion Mount Cover" through the netfabb repair https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net/ I'll let you know if I find anything else - parts were ordered last night :)

I've check the geometry on my FreeCAD file, seems fine...

While using Simplify3d, when I laid it down on it's flat side, the bottom disappeared. For me, this was fixed by running it through netfabb. Btw, I am printing most of your parts - seems pretty comprehensive - and then going to try to modify them to accomodate dual extruders and self leveling. Also I just got one of the touch screen displays that I want to try on this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/261990762389 Should be pretty slick.

The touch display looks nice... The 12864 graphics display is in Dot-Matrix emulation mode for my build, and it's not drawing fast when scrolling SD content... Let us know how your progress... Downing tools until next year...