GT2 belt clip

by jcdoll, published

GT2 belt clip by jcdoll Jul 14, 2013
5 Share
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Order This Printed View All Apps



GT2 belt clip by jcdoll is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag

Thing Statistics

10170Views 1971Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts


If you are building a Mini Kossel with an open belt (vs. the vanilla version that uses a closed belt) you will need a way to close it to form a continuous loop.

Some design considerations:

  • holding force
  • high stiffness to minimize hysteresis
  • ease of installation
  • allowing for excess belt length to spill out

After several iterations I settled on this type of a design. The SCAD is included and is fully parametric. The STL corresponds to a 6mm wide GT2 timing belt.

It should be impossible for the belts to clip unless the belt clip itself deforms, which is why you want a relatively high infill. If your belt teeth are getting squished rather than fitting into the clip then consider increasing tooth_radius in the SCAD.



1) Print with at least 50% infill.
2) Insert your belt. The fit should be quite tight.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Print through a distributed network of 3D printing enthusiasts from across the US, at a fraction of the cost of the competitors. We want to change the world for the better through technology, an...

App Info Launch App

Treatstock is an online platform that offers decentralized manufacturing services such as 3D printing and CNC machining for clients all over the world. We offer free and instant access to comparati...

App Info Launch App

3D print your favourite design with NinjaPrototype, a professional 3D manufacture with consistent quality and speed.

App Info Launch App

Clever design. Will try it.

the belts should both face inwards, so the tension presses it into the teeth instead of a flat surface.
with high tensions/ high acceleration/ x&y-jerk-values this could cause some play.
just put 2 /4 of a working 20teeth-gt2-pulley-desing next to each other.

can i have the .stp file for this model?

sorry, nope - it was made in scad, and the scad file is attached. If you need to change it, either use OpenSCAD, or just import the stl file into your favourite 3d editing tool and go from there.

This is a really great idea; do you think it would be appropriate for attaching carriages to belts? I am wondering if I can re-design the method my printer currently uses because it has some backlash-spectrum problems. http://www.appropedia.org/Delta_Build_Overview:MOST

Great design, thanks. I downloaded the STL but the gap was too close when I printed it on my Simple.
So I downloaded the scad file to use OpenSCAD and changed the gap from (1.0 - 0.05) to just 1.0 and that was all the margin I needed to just barely be able to get the belts in. Building my first delta, a Mini Kossel.

Just wanted to share my experience with this one: in short, it works, but make sure to use the narrowest nozzle you have and print slow enough to get clean tooth profiles. On my PBJr, I had to slow it to ~20 mm/s to get sharp belt profiles.

Also, if you have a standard-length Kossel Mini (240mm beams) or a carryon-size one (210mm beams), you may want to mount these belt clips ABOVE the carriages, and with the solid bottom part facing the center of the printer. If you mount them below, they interfere with the rods, and take away some of your print diameter.