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GT2 belt clip

by jcdoll, published

GT2 belt clip by jcdoll Jul 14, 2013
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GT2 belt clip by jcdoll is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Summary

If you are building a Mini Kossel with an open belt (vs. the vanilla version that uses a closed belt) you will need a way to close it to form a continuous loop.

Some design considerations:

  • holding force
  • high stiffness to minimize hysteresis
  • ease of installation
  • allowing for excess belt length to spill out

After several iterations I settled on this type of a design. The SCAD is included and is fully parametric. The STL corresponds to a 6mm wide GT2 timing belt.

It should be impossible for the belts to clip unless the belt clip itself deforms, which is why you want a relatively high infill. If your belt teeth are getting squished rather than fitting into the clip then consider increasing tooth_radius in the SCAD.

Repo:
https://github.com/jcdoll/kossel

Instructions

1) Print with at least 50% infill.
2) Insert your belt. The fit should be quite tight.

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Clever design. Will try it.

the belts should both face inwards, so the tension presses it into the teeth instead of a flat surface.
with high tensions/ high acceleration/ x&y-jerk-values this could cause some play.
just put 2 /4 of a working 20teeth-gt2-pulley-desing next to each other.

can i have the .stp file for this model?

sorry, nope - it was made in scad, and the scad file is attached. If you need to change it, either use OpenSCAD, or just import the stl file into your favourite 3d editing tool and go from there.

This is a really great idea; do you think it would be appropriate for attaching carriages to belts? I am wondering if I can re-design the method my printer currently uses because it has some backlash-spectrum problems. http://www.appropedia.org/Delta_Build_Overview:MOST

Great design, thanks. I downloaded the STL but the gap was too close when I printed it on my Simple.
So I downloaded the scad file to use OpenSCAD and changed the gap from (1.0 - 0.05) to just 1.0 and that was all the margin I needed to just barely be able to get the belts in. Building my first delta, a Mini Kossel.
Thanks

Just wanted to share my experience with this one: in short, it works, but make sure to use the narrowest nozzle you have and print slow enough to get clean tooth profiles. On my PBJr, I had to slow it to ~20 mm/s to get sharp belt profiles.

Also, if you have a standard-length Kossel Mini (240mm beams) or a carryon-size one (210mm beams), you may want to mount these belt clips ABOVE the carriages, and with the solid bottom part facing the center of the printer. If you mount them below, they interfere with the rods, and take away some of your print diameter.

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