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OpenRC F1 car - 1:10 RC Car

by barspin, published

OpenRC F1 car - 1:10 RC Car by barspin Dec 12, 2015

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246076Views 70700Downloads Found in R/C Vehicles

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Please consider supporting me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DanielNoree

Build videos on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL2qlqlXhIQqJ9iSHmbYKJlHonny1WZu-x

Subscribe to my YouTube channel so you don´t miss out on the latest of my projects! - https://www.youtube.com/c/DanielNoree

Complete hardware/electronics kit is available here: http://www.3dprintnpack.com/product-page/4054b44d-0bfb-cfed-4661-451da35810da

Please respect the license under which this project is released. Thank you!

Other OpenR/C Projects:
OpenR/C Quadcopter: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:793425
OpenR/C Truggy: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:42198
OpenR/C Touring Car: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:83024

Add your OpenR/C build to the buildmap: https://zeemaps.com/map?group=1888242

This is the OpenR/C Formula 1 car. It´s the third generation OpenR/C car and this time around focus is on simplicity! You can print everything in PLA except the tires which are done in NinjaFlex! Of course you can print it in any material you like but for those that want to print a car but only have PLA at hand, this is the project for you!

Print the calibration cude to see if you need to finetune your printer for the M3 nuts to fit in their pockets: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2297328

A note on the servo saver. It´s designed to be used with PLA, the upper and lower BOM applies force similar to a spring in a convetional servo saver. Of course the pressure depends on the type of material used, infill etc. Fine tuning can be done adding washer under or over the servo saver.

The "Main Turning Vane´s" needs to have it´s lower part trimmed using a "exacto knife". Then slide it in the chassie plate and push it over the "Lid" and it should snap into place-

Parts that need support added:

Front Spoiler.stl

Front.stl

Rear Rim.stl

Rear Wing.stl

Servo Saver Lower.stl

Things to buy:

Ok, obviously you need some filament which you´ll get from your favourite filament supplier.

You also need M3 screws and nuts which you can get at your local hardware store. Check the BOM list for what to get.

Some bearings are needed aswell, check the BOM list or buy a kit from FastEddyBearings.com: http://www.fasteddybearings.com/openrc-f1-sealed-bearing-kit/

Last but not least you need electronics and here´s what i got, all from HobbyKing:

ESC and motor combo: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65982__TrackStar_ROAR_approved_1_10th_Stock_Class_Brushless_ESC_and_Motor_Combo_21_5T_.html

Battery: http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__23134__Turnigy_nano_tech_Shorty_4200mah_2S2P_65_130C_Hardcase_Lipo_Pack_ROAR_APPROVED_.html

Micro Servo: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__25454__Turnigy_8482_TSS_10HM_DS_Micro_Servo_2_2kg_0_12sec_10g.html

Transmitter and Receiver (i use something else but this is a "cheap" alternative): http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__83360__HobbyKing_174_8482_HK_GT2B_3CH_2_4GHz_Transmitter_and_Receiver_w_Rechargable_Li_ion_Battery.html

If you are new to this whole R/C hobby you´ll also need a LiPo charger for the battery. Ask in the Google + Community for recommendations: https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/112745535856143176146

You can aslo ask questions in the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/

Rain tires designed by Thomas Palm are available here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:999257

Low profile rims & tires designed by Thomas Palm are available here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1103751

Short video: https://youtu.be/eTST_g2g2xQ

Please consider supporting me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/DanielNoree

Like my FaceBook page - https://www.facebook.com/Daniel-Nor%C3%A9e-576194949211855/
Subscribe to my YouTube channel - https://www.youtube.com/user/DanielNoree2

INSTAGRAM https://www.instagram.com/danielnoree/
TWITTER https://twitter.com/DanielNoree
GOOGLE+ https://plus.google.com/u/1/+DanielNoree
FACEBOOK https://www.facebook.com/daniel.noree

GOOGLE+ OPENRC COMMUNITY https://plus.google.com/communities/112745535856143176146
FACEBOOK OPENRC GROUP https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/

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do you buy the differential for this?

I can‘t found the BOM list. Please help.
THX, Anton

I found it.

Is it possible to put this together without the electronics just for show? I'd like to display this on my desk but not have to buy the electronics. Thanks!

Sure... why not? I had it all printed and assembled before my electronics came in, and you can't see any electronics anyway because it's all covered. So go for it! :)

You should make a OpenRC crawler please.

I just love your Design!

I ordered all parts today. I was Lucky its Banggood Sale and i got up to 11% on almost every part:

https://goo.gl/9W9CmA

Thank you so much!

Can you please send links for all parts needed on banggood?

Give IT a single Button plate for cnc?

Finished mine up and got it to run a couple times today. Required some adjustments to some files and reprinting some parts with higher infill but that comes with the 3D market.

For anyone looking at doing this take your time, it is a project that will have multiple phases. Even tho mine if running I think of it in the "testing" phase and until I can drive it around for a while without things coming loose it will not be finished.

Best of luck.

My thoughts exactly :D

Please anybody give me some tips for printing with PI-ETPU 95-250 Carbon Black filament? It gets all tangled up before it enters the extruder.

What printer do you have? Do you have a spool holder?

I have prusai3 . Yes i have spool hoder. I am going to try with larger extruder with slower printing speed.

My Prusa printed it fine, you may need to reload the filament.

Hmm I wonder why mine is like that . Someone told me to print at a very slow speed
Thx

Take a picture if it happens again.

I'll be getting my 1st 3d printer in the end of the year. is it possible to print the big parts on a XYZ of 120mm bed?

Hey guys, anyone happen to know if a 550 can 12t motor would work? I have spare parts laying around and would like to repurpose them!

i have a titan 12t 550 and decided not to use it as it looked like i would have to resolder the leads on it to get it to squeeze in, if your leads are on the side then it should definitely work. Also you need a shorty battery, as the motor, servo and battery are all in line and dont allow for a normal sized pack to fit.

Well, how convient that you have the same motor as me :P Thanks for letting me know!

Anybody have a link for a good motor for the F1 car?

Hello!

I started to build an OpenRC Formula 1 car and printed both, "Dual_Extr_Lid..." and "Center_Body".

Now there is a gap between both parts about 2 or 3 mm.

Because both are printed in the same direction, i wonder where these gap comes from. Is it possible that the dual-extrusion and the normal parts are different ones in terms of messurements?

Can you give me a hint please how to fix it?

Thank you very much.

check that you didnt accidentally scale something, I just loaded both versions of the lid in my slicer and they are exactly the same demensions

Thank you for your comment. I found my mistake: loading a dual-printing-profile cleared my adoptions in "steps per mm". That made the dual printed parts jsut a little smaler. ;)

Hi Daniel, I am just wondering. I keep destroying the inner part of the spur that goes on the motor. Do you happen to have a alloy option on ebay etc that has the grub screw in to hold it better? thanks heaps

Did you ever find something to help you out? If not I can send you the file with the adjustments I had to make. It's tough to put on, but once it's on, it's solid.

Hi Daniel,
No I didn't find one. I did drill and tap a hole in my ABS one but keeps cming off also. That file would be great.
Thanks Brian

Comments deleted.

Amazing design Daniel. Parts on order and can't wait to assemble. I do have a query about the tires though. Not having the machine to print flex I opted to get F104 tires and got the Shimizu ones which seem highly recommended in many places. However they don't seem to fit the F104 rims in the design? They seem very loose, especially on the rear side. The Tamiya versions seem to be just cylinders which you glue the front and back side to - with no lip arrangements as seen on the parts in the design? Just curious if anyone else has had any experience using F104s on the OpenRC F1? Feel like I am missing something.

http://imgur.com/a/S7dM4
http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.php/tech-tips/tyres
http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.php/2-uncategorised/825-how-to-glue-tyres

Discovered my fault. Posting for others. Shimizu tires require stock Tamyia rims like these:
https://www.tqrcracing.com/shop/product/51378.jpg

NOT the Race brand ones the rims in the package are designed for. I did up some compatible wheels and they work really well. Rubber, foam inserts, very grippy.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2291570

More info:
http://www.rcformula1.com.au/index.php/tech-tips/tyres

Tamiya stock rims for OpenRC F1 and store bought F104 tires.

It´s a shame with all the different types as it creates confusion and frustration. Thank for posting and i´m glad your on track with the car! =)

Would you like to send OpenR / C Formula 1 Car Kit to Turkey. How many dollars.

You can ask in the community on either Facebook or Google+

Would I be able to order the decals from you? (with all the supplies you used in your video?)

Does the car have to have the none 3d printed parts ?

Hi. Thank you very much for the model.
I only have the problem that the Center Lid doesn't fit very well (all other parts are flawless). It leaves gaps all around and thus not looking very good (and I think it is not very aerodynamic as well ^^)

Mine was the same, I'm attempting to print the 2017 update parts and see if it's any better.

I'm sure this has been asked.. anyway to scale this up to a larger model? I saw the 3D Printing Nerd interview at MRRF and he was holding what I believe to be a scaled up version of this..... I would love to have a larger version for my first print.

Anyone want to see if these tires will fit with this car?
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2209974

OpenRC Formula 1 Car Tire

What is the required build area to print this, I want to print it but my monoprice select mini only prints 120120120mm

It is too big for the Select Mini. I also have one and when I loaded it up in Cura, the Main Chassis Parts were much larger than the build plate. I supposed you could always down scale it but finding the electronics to fit it may be a problem. You would also have to down scale everything with it. Or you can check this out too, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680470

Split Chassis (for smaller build plates)

Can someone tell me how to print: Dual_Extr_Lid_Upper

in which direction and printer settings.

Thanks for the help!

Comments deleted.

Hey

Door you have an idea of how fast it can go with the parts you listed and a 2s lipo?

Tibo

cannot find openrc project page

where can i find the list of screws?

On the Bom pdf list that is in the zip file.

This is one of the coolest cars I have ever seen!!!!!!!!!!

Hi Thank you for your share,but I can not find the black model under the number 3 could you please share it ?

Thank you very much

Ah, i guess your talking about the "dual extrusion" parts. Check the files section and look for "
OpenRC_F1_Dual_Extrusion_Files.zip" and those files are in there! Let me know if that´s not what your looking for.

Hi Daniel, awesome project. We are in the process of building one in company colors on the Ultimaker we have here and pretty much all the parts are printed now. Only, we are a bit at a loss for the engine choice. The link on Thingiverse is dead but a similar motor seems to be 1855kV (150W). Yet the pictures supplied by 3DPrintnpack show a 3100kV (255W) motor. Which one is correct? We don't aim for top speed since this will be an office racer but we do like to keep things in one piece (and the magic smoke inside the electronics). Thanks!

Does the lid actually print stood up like it's imported?

All files are printed how they are imported without support, they were designed for easy printing, but if your printer struggles, reorientation the part where the printer wouldn't struggle.

Comments deleted.

Hi, I have a small printer (120mm x 120mm x 120mm), and I was wondering if there was anyway for me to print this design on my small build platform.

Hi! It should work i think except for the chassis but there´s a version for smaller printers aswell here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680470
But you should probably double check in your slicer that everything fits first before starting.

Split Chassis (for smaller build plates)

Hi, I have a small printer (120mm x 120mm x 120mm), and I was wondering if there was anyway for me to print this design on my small build platform.

Hi, I have a small printer (120mm x 120mm x 120mm), and I was wondering if there was anyway for me to print this design on my small build platform.

Hi, I have a small printer (120mm x 120mm x 120mm), and I was wondering if there was anyway for me to print this design on my small build platform.

Hi, I have a small printer (120mm x 120mm x 120mm), and I was wondering if there was anyway for me to print this design on my small build platform.

Have you made shocks for this yet?

Comments deleted.

Howdy, I am trying to find a picture of without the top parts on so i can see the exact layout of the electronics, can someone please post a pic like that for me? or link me to a picture... i know the pdfs show most of it... but i am trying to figure out the the position of the esc

would you recommend using Filaflex for printig the tire_v2? which infill do you recommend?

Here´s a video where i talk about how i print the F1 tires (V2): https://youtu.be/GRyA-5lrgd0

Awesome design! Printing one atm. But want to use The electronics i have laying around. But it's 1/14 scale. Can you upload The motor mount CAD Files. So i can try to mod myself?

Just download the STEP file of the entire assembly and your good to go! =)

That was fast! =)
Good work on the mount!

Hehe thanx! =)

I know people use different fill rates, but on average, how much PLA could I expect per car? I'm interested in building 6-8 cars to use in my freshman-level transportation class. The only things we won't be printing are the rear axle and gears since we'll be machining those items in the machine shop to help meet some of the state standards. I'm going to print one entire car though as "prototype" before we start changing items like the rear axle. That leads to the first problem.

Also, we have a Flashforge Finder in the classroom and I haven't encountered any warping on it before, but I started printing the rear axle today and about 5-10 minutes into the build the ends started curling up off of the bed. The center section and the first to steps outside of it look great, but the two smaller diameter sections curled up enough that its not usable. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

I don't have a large enough printbed to print the chasis front and back (PB Simple 150x150x150) so I sliced it and used a heat gun to melt/weld/solder it back together. I wish I knew how to slice it to make it into interlocking pieces instead of one straight line. If anyone is interested, I can link the sliced pieces or if someone can actually cut it into some of interlocking design, that would be awesome

Is this what you are looking for? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1680470

Split Chassis (for smaller build plates)

Wow, yes, I wish I had seen that before. I used a free netFab trial to cut straight lines but I'm not sure how to cut lines like that. I see the guy used Tinkercad to do some modifications, what do you use Daniel to make those cuts? Here are some photos of the cuts 'welded' together. It's ugly but it was just a test to see if I can melt parts together and see if I can melt more PLA to hold the seems together. Don't really care about the aesthetics, as long as it holds well and fits together so far it is.
http://imgur.com/TnprG48
http://imgur.com/yeo26yg

Ah, i agree with you, as long as it holds together it´s fine! =)

I use Fusion 360 to maker those cuts. (The entire car is done in Fusion 360)

This car is the most polished FDM model I've ever seen. All tolerances are perfect and don't require trimming or resizing to get things to fit. Amazing! Almost every piece is designed to print without support, absolutely superb!

Thanks man! I´m glad you like it! =)

Hello all. I am building the OpenRC F1 can and cant seem to find any Tires! looking to purchases some asap. Good Year or Pirelli.. please help. im in the UK. What Tires would just fit this rim size if bought?

Hi, I now have the TAMIYA F104 Rubber Tires, but to large for the original STL Rim that i printed. cant find a scaled rim design? any advice?

Is it the front rim? Apparently there are different versions of the tire. I will look into this. I do think these will fit though, have a look: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1462917

OpenRC F1 Rims for Tamiya Tires

My printer can't print flexible filaments. Would there be any tires I could substitute the wheels with?

Hello,

nice car, could someone make a pic like the front axis is mound with the servo ?

I'm totaly new in building RC things, but i just wanna try it, is it hard to build it? Just don't wanna waste that money :X

How is the servo connected to the servo saver?

Use a metal wire of some sort. I use 1.5mm Alu pin

someone had this car in their booth at the maker fair of san mateo, california. It was in a semitranslucent blue. It was really cool to look at.

This is my first project and it came out great. I'm new into 3d printing I'm using a Ultimaker 2 with olsson block hot end I've put a few hundred hours of printing on it now. I have showed my formula F1 to many people and I carry a failed wheel and tire and the reaction I get from people is awesome. Daniel Norée thank you for your letting me learn on your AWESOME design. Thank You Gerry

i olso use ultimaker 2

Thank you very much for you comment, it´s so nice to hear that you like it. Thank you for putting in all the work of making one yourself! Thank you /Daniel

How fast can it go? what would be the total cost of the project? I have my own transmitter (turnigy 9x)
Have anyone tried to put and FPV camera on it??

Top speed depends on gearing ratio used. With the "stock" setup and recommended electronics it reach about 35km/h. I´m working on releasing more variations for gearing ratio. My current setup goes at 40km/h but i´m aiming for something like 45-50km/h.

Have you played around with boost and turbo on the ESC?

I have a 5300 kv motor and right now on my rc truck it goes 50 mph would that be to big of a motor?

Thanks, nice work, after I finish an FPV project with a 250mm quad, (80 km/hr) i will engage in this model.

What are the different settings to print this? I'm using Cura. Thanks in advance

i'm mostly using 0.2 layer height, 100% infill for stress parts, and 10 tor cosmetic parts.

Thank you, I have been using .25 and anywhere from 50% to 100%. I may try to print .2 on some of the other parts I have left to print. Still need to get the motor and esc for this project. I have all kinds of Airplane motors and escs, but nothing for rc cars.

anyone able to print me a set of tires? im willing to pay ya.

Where are you from??

Try the OpenRC Community on G+ or the Facebook group, i´m sure there´s somebody willing to help.

Google+: https://plus.google.com/communities/112745535856143176146
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1111886228841596/

Does any one know the final product in grams?

How much ninjaflex do i need to buy to print these tires? There's 2 purchasing options on amazon.com, the 50g spool or the 500g spool. What's the printed weigh per tire (roughly)?

It really depends on the density of the wheel you print. 1 wheel at standard quick print settings (Cura) will use 22g of material.

So instead of using ninjaflex for the tires(god is it expensive) could i instead use the flexible tpu by sainsmart? its supposedly not as flexible as ninjaflex but still pretty flexible.

TPU will more then suffice, depended on brand!

That could work but make it as flexible as possbile since there isn't much suspension (none actually) to cushion any pebbles on the track.

Anyone know if these rims are standard size? I don't have the ninjaflex to make the tires and I really think just buying some tires would be better and probably much cheaper.

I love r/c's just as much as the next guy/gal. But has anyone tried printing this just as a nice model? Put on a desk or something.

Probably better off, for every 1 minutes of playing outside I spend 1 hour printing parts that I broke off in that 1 minute.

So it would be possible to skip the "internal parts" and just print a shell of the car for display?

Yes! Desk Model was the first thing I did, slightly scaled down

I'm going to remix this so I can put a rocket engine in it.

That would be awesome if you did! =)

I don't know how to make front bom assembly.
Can you show me the picture?

What infill do you use with the tires? I've never printed in Ninjaflex before so this part is all new.

I eventually settled on 10%-20% infill but you need 5 top layers since the ninjaflex doesn't fill in as nicely without a lot of support for bridging.

nice job! you did ask if there was a better servo and i thought i might share here is my go to servo http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__17322__Turnigy_8482_TGY_9018MG_MG_Servo_2_5kg_0_10sec_13g.html
it has worked for me for years only one ever had a issue. due to a minor scrape landing to fast. very strong and fast. super precise movement and really good centering every time. hope this helps someone.

That's awesome, thanks!

Comments deleted.

Looks beautiful!

Why no differential? Thing must be a bear to drive without!

I don't suppose anyone has developed a version of the larger parts that can print on a 150x150 build plate, like someone did with the truggy?

So far, I have only printed the nose and Front_Lower. Beautifully designed, well thought out project from someone who has actually used a 3d printer. Parts appear to all be aligned well for printing, and assembly. I can't wait to finish this.

I have all the large external pieces done. Some are a very tight fit. Make sure your printer is well calibrated. It's coming together nicely. Printed the flat chassis pieces at .3 layer and they worked much better than the attempt at .1

Bill of Materials is missing M3x12 cap screws for motor mount. Otherwise an amazing project!

This thing is sweet!!! Going to start printing parts tonight:) great job on the design!!!!

congrats on the feature!

I love this design. It'd be great if you could post some photos :D

Without going through the full BOM myself, how much did you spend on all the internals? Also maybe an approximate plastic usage. Thanks.

Where did you get the tires seen in the 3rd picture?

what is the wheel base dimension? and width?
Looking for a 1/10 scale car for another body?

For those of you looking to put one of these together, we are selling the fastener and bearings kit for this 3D Print on Etsy.

Bearings - https://tinkermake.com/product/openrc-f1-bearings-kit-3d-printed-rc-car
Fasteners (screws) - https://tinkermake.com/product/openrc-f1-fastener-kit-3d-printed-rc-car

Me and a friend both purchased a set of bearings and screws. We received combined shipping and it was pretty quick as well. The bearings are super smooth. Thanks again for making these kits, my local stores do not go lower than M4 for some odd reason.

Tldr: I recommend.

Awesome just saw this! Thank you!

what size foam tires and who would you recommend buying the foam tires from?

Currently there are no rims for foam tires i´m afraid.

If only there was a device that we all owned capable of manufacturing anything we wanted... ;P

What scale does this car have, and with the reccomended non-printed parts, how fast does it go?

Scale is 1:10, don´t know about the speed, i haven´t measured it.

Comments deleted.

Thank you very much for your inspirations! I'm going to build my own RC-car (I'm more interested in building everything myself, rather driving the final product :) ).
Maybe some useful information for you:
I've done my first test prints on PETG-filaments and the results are just amazing compared to ABS (not talking about PLA). Total strong, heat resistant, no warping and flexible. I see you are living in sweden, there is a e-bay shop in the netherlands for cheap PETG-filaments: http://tinyurl.com/zqlkk3p
Price is about 23 Euro / kg, so really cheap. Main advantage of PETG: Easy to handle like PLA: fire up extruder to 220-240, heatbed to 70, done!

What infill percentage do you recommend?

I have printed the body at 20% infill, rear axle and gears at about 50%. The rear and front wing 100%.

My other suggestion, would be another nut and bolt pair between the front and center, further up and more to the outside to improve the fit between those two shell pieces at the edges of the air intakes (might add more vertical stiffness along the length of the car). This may accommodate better any imperfections or curvature between the intake pieces.

I am printing this in ABS. Either my printer produces slightly small printouts, or the clearances for the 3mm nuts is very tight, as I found that the RTL Fasteners nuts I'm using are just a little too big for them (in thinkness, and width). You might want to resize those holes up by .5mm or so to add some safety margin for hardware variances. I'm working around this issue in the existing prints by using m2.5 hardware nuts and bolts instead.

Abs shrinks after printing. Pla expands

PLA does not expand. It shrinks, just not nearly as much as ABS

Beautiful x-mas decoration.

Great Christmas gift Daniel. Thank you.

Your welcome! =)

Yet another amazing RC model Daniel! Thanks for sharing! :)

Hi Daniel
You done it again. Now I have to choose between my ferry projekt or start with printing your F1 car. I must have a printer no 2.
regards
Torben

Thanks Torben!

Having two printers (or more) is a great thing! =)

I have printed almost all of the parts for this and I am having some alignment issues with the main chassis, The holes don't line up with the body if I snap the 2 pieces of the chassis together. I am not sure if it is a problem with my printer or if other people have had this problem.

I'm having the same issue. Did this ever get addressed? I've printed the body a couple times in pla. I printed the chassis in PETG. If I force the chassis and body holes to line up, I break the front of the body.

Thanks for letting me know. I´ll have a look.

same problem the two chassis fit together but the body parts do not line up

Ok, thats weird. I downloaded the stl's and they seemed to fit. Would you mind posting some pics in either the Google community or Facebook group? I would really appreciate it! Thanks!

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