LED strip holder for Wanhao Duplicator i3

by Scorpio9999 Dec 13, 2015
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I printed this part vertically. Brim 5 lines. You can add brim 10 lines to be sure it will not pop up.

Has no one else had issues with adhesion to the build plate? This model design only allows for two 2mm wide strips to make contact to the build plate for each piece. Print made it to about 15% and then pops off. I just releveled my bed and going for another attempt, we'll see if she wants to stay down this time.
Monoprice maker select
glass bed, no tape, glue or hair spray

never had issues with parts not sticking before even with the manual bed leveling, but never tried to print a model with such small contact area before, or maybe cura is doing something strange in my slicer and reducing the contact area less than most peoples experience, with a recessed area for the LED strips to sit down inside and printed upside down I dont see anyway around the small raised border being the only contact to the build surface, would have to change the orientation and then need supports
any suggestions welcome,

Any chance you can remodel this so the strip angles in more like this? It makes a huge difference in lighting


Wanhao LED Strip Lighting

I just share on Thingiverse some of my designs. Not all. Do not expect that I'll do something by request.

As for LEDs on top. It has cons. They will block filament if you will print a part 180 mm height.
By installing them you decrease print volume what is not good at all.

That looks like you wired it into the control box, care to share how you managed that please?

since each piece is quite short, do we suppose to print 4 pieces?

The first your question dated 29 August 2016. Did you print it during past year?

Two pieces is bare minimum for this printer IMHO. One on left and one on right side of frame.
They are 100 mm long what is equal to 2 sections of 3 LEDs each. 6 LEDs per side.
You can print 4 pieces, two per side. It's up to you.

damn i just printed the cover and lights are not lining iup with the holes as good

only show some lights..

any chance you can change holes distance for the cover?
my lights are 17mm apart (edge to edge)

I didn't get a strip back then...

I have since done a number of mods and now doing this LED mod

i just printed one now and noticed it is quite short
and my strip is longer than the frame.

Did you cut your strip in to 2 or 3 pieces
and did you add a strip to the top?

BTW you should add a warning
to put some tape on the frame (before put the rails on) to prevent any scratching of the paint.
I noticed mine had a scratch when I was trying to put it on.

can you upload a single rail STL file?

I don't want to print two at the same time

No promises as original files could be lost.

Do you have ebay link for recommended strip to buy
and what size etc..?

Link below is for reference only.
Pay attension on "5050" model. 300 LEDs. 500 x 0.8 x 0.3 cm
You can cut it after each 3-rd LED. There is a mark and soldering pads.


I prefer ordering from Amazon and got the 2835 instead https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The LEDs are smaller but seem to have the same distance between them. Per this website they are 3x brighter than the 5050

I'll post pictures when I have enough holders printed and have them mounted.

I purchasing from Internet only in case if I cannot buy something in regular shops.
On provided links there is no particular information about light power.


This is modern model of LED strip. As you can see 7-8 Lm per LED.
My old one PLS-ECO3528/60-WHITE-IP20 (made in 2013) is 3-4 Lm per LED. But it's enough to highligt model on printer, insert filament and so on.

Do you use separate power for the LED or is there a way to feed off the control box?

Just connect "-" (usually black wire) to "COM" connectror of PSU and "+" (usually red wire) to "+V" connector of PSU. That's it!

can u post some picture of how you connected it?

and how do u hide the wiring.

Just uploaded couple photos.
On first photo: Wires from LED strip goes down to Z stepper motors. Then goes along stepper wires to control box.
On second photo: Small red and black wires are from LEDs. Red ones connected to "+V" near "+V ADJ". Black ones connected to "COM" near to "+V".

That's it!

I don't see the photo you said..
Also need some more photos (prefer Higher resolution) of how the wires are connecting to the control box..

I don't want to risk blowing my PSU..

What voltage are the these wires?
My current led strip is 12V

Are you also using a mirror for your print BED?

I uploaded again second photo.

I don't want to open control box just to make more photos.
Multimeter is your friend.
"COM" connectors are Ground or negative or "-".
"+V" are +12V or positive.
You will find all black wires connected to "COM" and all red wires to "+V".

Wires itself can handle ANY voltage. But they CANNOT handle any current.
If you mean connectors on PSU then in my case it was 12 volts. You should measure voltage on your PSU as some old models had as 12 as 24 volts..

I hope it clear now.

Yes, I use mirror on printing bed and glue stick. It allows me to print as PLA as ABS.

Yes, i mean the 12V+ connector on PSU..
Ground/COM are always black so most ppl know this already.

I hope you have a change of mind and do post photos of it connected inside the PSU for ppl to view..
This is good for noobies, else some could end up blowing up their PSU if done incorrectly...

Why you use mirror and not glass like most mods?
Is mirror better than glass.

And how did u get the mirror and got it cut?
and what are u using to hold the mirror in place?

Do u need to use gluestick or hairspray?

And what is the advantage of using mirror instead of leaving the normal buildtak

Color of wires could be different. Even red is negative and black is positive. Don't trust just colors, use multimeter.

In total uploaded 5 photos. Right most is connectors of PSU. Second from top on photo is where I connected "+" of LEDs. Fifth from top is where "-" connected. If you will lokk at PSU from back it will be second and fifth from the right.

Off topic:

I use mirror by several reasons. I had relatively small mirror which gave me two squares 20x20 cm. I have too big glass to cut from, about 140x80 cm. Quality of glass for mirrors are better than regular glass. It has minimum of iron impurity, it's polished, so has minimum deformations. And it looks better. :)

Mirror from old wardrobe. To cut it I used diamond glass cutter. Nothing magic.
To hold it on printing bed I use 25 mm paper clips.
I already wrote that I use glue stick. I haven't hairspray and don't want to buy it.

Advantage - heating printing bed is always clean. I use two mirrors. While one with printed part cools down (from 100° C takes much time) I can start next print (heating to 100° C takes even more time).