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The best Anti-Wobbling Z-axis for Geeetech

by jerryciano, published

The best Anti-Wobbling Z-axis for Geeetech by jerryciano Dec 18, 2015
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hole saw

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Summary

Hi all,
I have the ultimate solution to the problems of wobbling of the Z axis for the printer Geeetech Prusa I3 X with acrylic frame.
Simply using a hole saw, freed the two threaded rods and magically disappear the problems of wobbling.
Do not add more pieces to the printer to reduce the problem, freeing the two threaded rods will avoid threaded rods to go wrong and move the carriage during printing
Looks at my solution!!!! :)
If you want, you can also print the new part....

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Geeetech Prusa I3X

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Doesn't Matter

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Doesn't Matter

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Restricting both end of the threaded rod is not a good thing.
Its been engineered to be loose, that way when the threaded rod wobbles, will not put pressure on the smooth rod..
To restrict Both ends of the threaded rods, you must have all four roads perfectly parallel and exactly at the same plane, otherwise, a little .005 Inche misalignment from top to bottom, means ,0025 inch that the threaded rod will push the smooth rod to the sides. Think about an archers bow, if you hold both ends and rotate it, the middle of the arc will be wobbling, now, if you hold one end and the center of the arch, the other end will wobble and that is what is happening with the loose end..
E.g. If the threaded rod is not restricted and want to wobble to the left, nothing happens to the smooth rods,
If the threaded rod is restricted and want to wobble to the left, the middle of the threaded rod will push the smooth rods to the right..
Also the acme thread has been used not because is cheap but because is loose and the threaded rod will move freely from side to side within the idler without exerting pressure on the smooth rods.

I do not think, it is a joke.
Replacing the original top plate by this thing might weaken the strength of it though.
I would only recommend this part, if the lead screw is really bent and is hitting or grinding the (often very wide designed) original hole there.
In your case, it really seemed to have been very small at first (your 2nd foto).
For my acrylic A6 it was enough, to cover the hole and even reduce the size by doing so - just for optical reasons...
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1867669

MKSAs solution on the other hand is a very fascinating but also highly sophisticated one that requires a lot of skills - and most important an metal frame. It might be ultra stiff then and wobble free, but also is not a good approach for OUR printers.

Lets keep trying to get the best out of them, if there are ways. And if there are none, maybe we can live with it then, too.

Best regards.

Dust Cap for Z-Rod Anet A6, for free movement of Z-Rod without catching dust from above.
Dec 3, 2016 - Modified Dec 3, 2016

I may be late but just saw this so my warning !

This claim is a joke and an insult to good engineering practice ! There should be laws on thingverse to forbid this !

Dec 3, 2016 - Modified Dec 3, 2016
jerryciano - in reply to MKSA

If you don't like this... don't use it, it's simple!!

Of course I won't, I devised a real solution for this"wobbl" but it is my duty to warn beginners not to waste their time !

Even a beginner knows that two points are always on the same straight line, as three points are always on the same flat plane. So, as building a three-legged table avoids instability problems with uneven floors, so keeping just two mechanical constraints on the screw (the motor and the nut) is a perfectly viable and easy solution to relieve stresses and avoid wobble caused by slightly bent screws. Because this is the problem: we're talking about hobby product and chinese quality here. If you're lucky, you'll never see the kind of wobble this workaround fixes.

TL;DR version: it worked for me, it worked for others, regardless of that "good engineering practice"

Just because three point are in the same plane, does not mean they are in the same axis and if the threaded rod wobbles is because the middle of the threaded rod is not in the same axis as the end points. Example: If you get an archers bow and grab it in the middle of the arc and one end, then rotate it and the other end will wobble; now grab the two ends, rotate it and the middle will wobble, If you do the same to the threaded rod, is thru that the ends will not wobble but the middle will and this wobble will exert force to the smooth rods. I made the mistake of installing them in my printer thinking only on the wobbling move, but did not think about the effect on the smooth rods until my parts did not meet tolerances vertically. solution was to remove the anti-wobbling.

Dec 4, 2016 - Modified Dec 4, 2016
MKSA - in reply to Axeman72

OK so you know basic geometry but obviously not much in mechanic !
It works for you ? So ? You don't eliminate the wobble, you just "reduce" it somewhat.
See, the first thing to do is to identify the cause, then eliminate it and if you can't eliminate it, try to minimize it.

"See, the first thing to do is to identify the cause, then eliminate it and unless you can't eliminate it, try to minimize it."
You're right. Let's see:

The cause is BENT SCREWS.
I can't eliminate that (replacing screws with better one is not an option for a cheap machine like this)
So I minimize it REMOVING THE TOP CONSTRAINT with this

And now that you apporoved all that I've done, what are we talking about?

You forgot the coupler as an other main cause (and to a lesser extend play in the vertical linear guides, vibrations ...)!
Now if people can't spend a few dollars for proper lead screws, then they can trade one Z motor and couplers to pay for them plus a few stuff :)

PS: Plenty of printers with the top of the screw free still experience wobble, see the other magic tricks published here to tame it !

Other people have printed and tried this solution with good results. If you want to help the community print this "thing" on your Prusa I3X by Geeetech, made some tests and publish your results and cosiderations, otherwise Your free comments are only junk!!!
Perhaps you do not even have an acrylic geeetech prusa printer, so what are you talking about? I hope that in your fairy world of fairies and fates everything is always wonderful !!!

Dec 4, 2016 - Modified Dec 4, 2016
MKSA - in reply to jerryciano

I have a Geetech not the acrylic because as an engineer, I knew it was a piece of junk not worth the effort !
I bet the people who bought the acrylic version did it because of the "professional" label.
And my Geetech Al, I improved it by eliminating the wobble cause plus plenty of other problems. I published some of them, just the one requiring basic skills and knowledge.

As for your "solution" plenty of printers are built the way you did it and still have wobble leading to people publish gimmicks like clamps to try again to tame it without really eliminating it.

I'm an engineer, but also a realist. Please don't try and elevate your status because you have a degree. I spend half my day up to the knees in mud working with tradesmen making life easier for everyone. I'm not an overpaid desktop engineer. but a real one. I bought the acrylic machine, why because the best engineering is done in the field, by trial and error.

If you want to learn from your errors, you are welcome. Personally I prefer first to learn from other people's errors !
Saves at lot of time and the errors I can make then are at least major screw ups I can learn a lot more from ! :)

PS: Playing in the mud, true you are not overpaid but you get a lot more fun isn't ?

What is the oval slot for? I have an acrylic prusa i3 and both the 8mm smooth rods and the 5mm threaded rods are restrained at the top.

Printed these and boy do they work! The vertical rods on my kit were totally bent, I will have to get new ones, but in the meantime, the printer seems to be usable just like this. Thank you!

May 11, 2016 - Modified May 12, 2016

OMG! I'm already printing the Y stop you uploaded, if it works, you will be my savior, I've been months looking for the solution, I didn't even know how to search for it! Thank you so much... It is curious, how you can find the solution when you are not even looking for it. Thanks in advanced!!!

So, I printed two pieces for both rods, I have spent all day printing useless stuff... just because it prints straight! No more wobbling problems, very happy with the solution, Ill check your auto bed level too, seems great. Thank you so much!

Can you show my the improvements the wobble is driving my insane on my prusa i3x

You can see the improvement by watching the 2 pokemon photos. You can see my wobble problems in the Pikachu photo, the other pokemon was printed after I freed the Z axis.

Where can í see this photos :$

in the photo gallery of the project

Seems like they were going for a more stable design with the constraints. But after installing this my rods went from dancing to straight smooth movements. Definitely improved the print quality! Thanks for sharing this!!!

Glad to see that someone agrees with me on this! I have tried telling people that over constraining the threaded rod only makes it worse.

I'm happy to share my improvement for the printer, thanks for your comment. I think that the best solution is to free the top of the rod. Another good method is to reduce the diameter of the rod, for example from 8mm to 4mm, the 4mm threaded rods does not have the force to move the X-axis.

Good point, I hadn't thought about that. Although I upgraded to the 8mm ACME leadscrews.

I am glad to see someone using a proper method of reducing threaded rods from applying forces to the X axis. Restricting the top of the rod only makes things worse unless your threaded rods are PERFECTLY straight and perfectly centered in the stepper motor couplings. Shimming the bottom of the rods so that they are centered in the couplers and checking to rods to make sure that they are straight eliminates the need to do anything more. Rolling the rods on a flat surface (granite countertops work great) and tweaking them straight helps tremendously.

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