I have added updated versions of the x-carriage left and right bottom plates. These are required due to the lowered hotend mount. You will be unable to print if these parts are not installed.
I have also added the promised extruder clip to stop the motor from moving due to extrusion pressure. It's not pretty, but it stops any movement.
This Sunhokey Prusa i3 upgrade kit contains all the parts I believe are necessary to improve the printer's print quality.
All of these upgrades (apart from the Z-axis) can be installed using the spare screws left over from building the printer. This is what I was aiming for when I designed the parts.
This kit contains:
- Bowden to direct drive conversion. It will reduce motor skipping, eliminate ooze and wobbling from the bowden tube pressure. Known issue: the motor moves up and down when extruding. I am working on a clip that will attach to the current parts to stop this.
- Massively lowered nozzle height, requiring new bottom plates on the x-carriage sides to allow the carriage to go lower than before possible. This increases Z height abilities.
- Dual radial fan blower fan. I have created two version with different height. Please ensure you have enough clearance before printing. I use a longer nozzle than the default so use the taller blower. I recommend powering the fans at between 5-8 volts to reduce vibrations and noise. With two fans, 12 volts isn't necessary.
- Hotend cooler. I have solved the issue of the cooler falling off by reducing tolerance. The cooler now clips firmly onto the hotend and is more efficient than any other design I have come across.
- X-Carriage inductive sensor mount. I have included variations for those with 12 or 17mm sensors, and for those with no sensor at all. The mount may need sanding to allow the sensor to fit snug. You will need to glue it in place as there is no space for mounting bolts. However I like to keep mine free as the sensor's reading changes as the ambient temperature changes. The cooler fan also blows air onto it (I will fix this in a later version) so you will need to quickly recalibrate between prints (just twist the sensor into position, takes only a few seconds)
- Optional Z-axis stabilizer. I recommend not using this as it can cause issues but I thought I would include it anyway. You will require bearings. I use F608zz Shielded Model Flange Bearing 8 x 22 x 7mm.
- Optional 15mm cylindrical bearing mount. This mount will bolt onto the X-carriage and has cable tie slots to secure the bearings in place.
Please give feedback if you experience issues. You will most likely need to sand and drill some pieces to fit as I did.
All of my parts are printed at 0.2 resolution with no supports required.