Recorder V2.2 (instrument)

by cymon Oct 7, 2011
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Made it for my kid and he loves it. It in fact is way better than the one my other kid got from the dollar store. :)

Made it for my kid and he loves it. It in fact is way better than the one my other kid got from the dollar store. :)

Hello, can I ask you for the source files? , I want to print your wonderful project with the name of my good friend and give it to him ... Thank you in advance, respectfully Michael. mishaignatow@gmail.com

The source is in an old version of blender. Honestly, you'd have a easier time just importing the STLs and adding your text to it.

I do not know how to embed STL and edit.if you share the source.

I made one today. It is a nice instrument. I've never played a recorder before. When I cover all the holes it makes a D sound, where as the chart online says a recorder should make a F or C. Is there a finger chart for this particular recorder?

Apparently I got the scale wrong, and no one ever told me before. IF you adjust the scale you should be able to fix it. Let me know what scale fixes it.

I found a solution to making it tuned properly. You have to make the upper body longer. When I extended the pieces a bit, it was tuned to C.

Edit: If you extend the upper-body a half inch larger it should be tuned properly.

Edit again: By resizing the upper body it tuned properly. I reprinted the upper body by 118% without uniform scaling, in cura.

I made a fingering chart for your recorder. I found another fingering chart and adjusted it. https://i.imgur.com/h9F8rgr.png
The fingering charts online show that the recorder plays in the c scale or f scale
It is off by one. It supposed to be C, C#, D, D#, etc. etc. or something like that, but your recorder is D, D#, E, F, etc. etc.

is it possible to scale it bigger ?
i mean so that it will still work

It does work, but I have no idea if it would if you scaled it. My guess is it would work about the same, but no garuntees. Gaps between joints will be looser I think, but it should be fine

the gaps were no problem in my first print i had quite to remove some stuff

Sure, it'll just effect the pitch. Bigger should make it sound lower.

lower in frequency or lower in volume ?

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Hi Cymon,

I printed it in PLA with CURA slicing, went out pretty good but it's impossible to assemble the male parts are always too thick and don't fit in. I used the updated version on Youmagine. Any hints to solve this ? Thanks !

Sand paper.

Different 3D printers and different materials have huge differences in the gap required to make an air tight press fit. So I erred on the side of caution and left it to the person assembling to fix it in post.

Thanks, fixed with sand paper, WD-40 and some brute Force

Hello cymon! I am fairly new to 3D printing, probably only been printing 2-3 months? 15-20 prints? anyways I printed this and its pretty cool, but there is a lot of "air noise" mixed in with the notes. I sanded the fipple quite a bit, but im afraid of making it too short. I use Ultimaker Cura 3.6.0 and printed with 50% infill (Cubic) im not familiar with very many print settings. im looking for a way to get some cleaner noise, without as much air noise. Should I print with higher infill, if so how high? or should I sand fipple more? any recommended settings would be great. I included a clip of what mine sounds like. Plently of wailing screeches, as I never got past "hot crossed buns" Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Evan. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YbMlu6kv-O0

I'm not sure what to do to help. While I made this with geometry that was theoretically correct, different printing technologies over the years, slight changes in how the slicer handles thin areas, layer heights, infill, and 100 other factors means that what worked for me way back when, even if I could remember it, probably won't work now.

On the plus side, you only need to try different settings with the top part, so it's a quick print to experiment with. Good luck.

Alright thanks. its very cool. I tried comparing it to my real recorder, and I noticed on the real one the fipple is closer to where the wind comes out, and the whole is slightly skinnier. I may try editing your files, although im terrible at 3D building. Also I do have one more question: In your instructions, it says "Sharpen the edge of the lip to a fine point." although im not sure what you mean. Sharpen the fipple? (which I did) or where you put your mouth? thanks again, Evan

Yes, sharpen the fipple. You've got it.

Also, there may need to be a change in scale for your. It sounded off tune in the YouTube video. Good luck.

Thank you! im sorry to keep bothering you, but when you say change is scale, pull mouthpiece out a little bit? or scale it in Cura? I assume you mean pull out a bit. I have a tuner, as I play Trumpet, but I just wanted to check. Again thanks so much for replying so promptly, and helping me with this.

EDIT: Oh! I just realized you have a recorder v2.3. would that mouthpiece work better? if so, can I just do mouthpiece or should I reprint entire recorder? again. thanks, from a newbie to 3D printing

Yes, new version is just a different mouth piece.

And I did imply scaling in cura, but I'm not sure by what. It was just a thought.

Back to this comment thread once again! its been a few months but I recently was showing my 3D printing recorder to a few friends, and one asked if it has to be printed in pieces. I said yes, as its not my design, but then I kept thinking. It would be cool if you made a new version that is all one piece for people with taller printers. Cool idea in my opinion! Let me know what you think!

Totally doable. I did release the windway for this model so you could create a cylinder, or really any shape, and Boolean out the windway and have a working recorder. I made the empire state building and a custom sculpt into recorders in the past.


Be sure to check out the remixes.

Recorder V2.3 Negative Space
by cymon

yes! i saw that, and your remixes. i just asked because if i were to do it, the recorder would probably be a solid cube or cylinder, no shape or anything because i am not good at modeling. thats why i thought i would suggest it.

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ok. thanks for all your help. im leaning towards changing cura settings because I am not very good at editing files yet. thanks anyways, Evan

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ah I have not played the recorder in years I recently lost mine from 3rd grade and I wanted to print this so I could play again after a millennial

hm I cant seem to fit the pieces together should I glue it? would a knife work I don't have any sand paper

I doubt a knife would work, not without a lot of effort. try buying sandpaper its cheap

dont print!, takes so much sand paper to just get the parts to barely in. When you combine the parts it just breaks even with a high infill (70%!!)
what the heck man

I only had to do minimal sanding, and it fits perfectly. I also printed at 70%, nothing broke

i tried to print it so many times. it just keeps falling in the middle of the print. i think i need to put a wider base to it to make it stick more

try using raft, and heat the bed if it can be heated. try 60 Celsius. also blue painters tape below print helps a ton

Excellent work! Thank you for this playable instrument!!

Wow, you play the recorder really well!

I have printed it assembled it it sounds amazing and it's well-tuned in the first try however I have one suggestion as the airflow in the mouthpiece is too wide it requires a lot more effort to create the same sound if you make it more narrow it will make it more smoother with less air sounds

I'm have issues slicing it. The parts have a layer covering the holes. Any ideas to fix this problem?

I have been trying to print recorder parts for a few weeks now. I've printed about 15 headjoints, continued to refine and measure, and really frustrated. I've got headjoints that don't play at all, play if I seal up the end, play until I attach the fingerboard... Can't wait to print your work and see how it goes. What is the secret on the mouthpiece and labian setup? I've never had such trouble. Maybe the PLA is just not a good material for this? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am a high school teacher and really like the idea of combining the tech with the music. Thanks.

I've had trouble if single extrusion walls are on. The latest version of Simplify3D or Cura added the ability to print walls that are one extrusion thick, but with the fipple on this I've had that actually prevent it from working.

I have printed out two of them. I used the one .STL that had all four pieces in them. Both recorders do not join. Seems as if you have the tolerances too tight.

If you look closely at your print, you'll probably see a 'z' seam throughout the print. This seam will cause trouble putting the pieces together. After you finish the print, just trim down the 'z' seam on all of the pieces where they join together to where you can't feel the 'z' seam anymore. That will probably solve your problem of fitting the pieces together.

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nice job. just one comment - every part except mouthpiece is sliced in a way that there is a top layer covering the hole. easily fixable by removing doubles and correcting normals in Blender. thanks for the model though, works perfectly

That's interesting. First person in all these years to discover that. What slicer are you using?

im having the same issue

Simplify3D v4.0, but didn't try earlier versions though. anyway, it's no big deal and after removing doubles and making normals consistent in Blender, it is printed okay. Could not find any inconsistent normals nor double vertexes ..

screenshot of how it's printed when downloading from thingiverse: http://imgur.com/a/jitQ3

do you print each piece straight up or with a brim or a raft and what lvl infill should i use.

Print just as-is. without any supports, brims or rafts. I used 50% infill and it's fine

how tall is the tallest peice

Mine has no sound, I blowed in air but there is no sound coming out? Is the precision important? I printed at high speed with 0.3mm layer hight. Or does it requires skill to play? Never played one before...

Precision is important. Especially in the fipple, the little part where the wind gets split and makes the sound. Needs to be very sharp and correctly positioned. Try sanding it a bit and seeing if that fixes it. If not, reprint the mouthpiece with a higher resolution.

My only issue (on the previous version) was that the sections did not fit properly together. I am printing a 2.2 out tonight and hoping for a working recorder. The overall design is outstanding and sounds pretty much exactly like a normal recorder. Believe me when I say that I have a sharp ear too, I play the violin.

Might want to update the model on thingiverse. Cool model, but why are you holding out on the newest version. This model requires A LOT of sanding.

There's a lot sites out there to keep updated. I'd rather spend my time supporting sites owned by companies that support us.

Sorry, still a little Maerkbot rage, even after all this time.

Tried printing it a couple of hours ago. Came back 4 hours later to find a big blob of orange spaghetti :p.
The print toppled half way through and the printer kept on doing its thing. Any ideas on getting the pieces to stick? Maybe print slower?

Any print with minimal plate contact can benefit from a skirt or a raft. I prefer skirts because rafts just feel like admitting that I can't level my build plate.

Thanks cymon! Used a brim, increased the bed temperature, increased the first layer nozzle temperature and slowed the print down. End result: perfectly printed recorder. :D

do I print with souports


I printed the parts with brim, now I have problems to stick them together (the brim blocks the hole a litte bit).
How can I remove the small parts of the brim without damaging the parts, what else could I do to stick them together?

Be sure I'll post a picture when I succeeded :-)

I tried to print this for my daughter, but the extruder knocked the parts off 1/2 way through. Should I make a raft? If so, what would be the best program to do this?

thanks from a Newbie to 3D Printing!

A raft would help, but a brim would be even better for bed adhesion. Also make sure that your bed is completely level. Hope this helps.

Thanks! I am really struggling to create a brim. I feel like such a newb... I have tried a lot of different software packages and it seems like Meshmixer is a good one, but I can not seem to figure out how to make a raft. Any suggestions for tutorials?

A brim is an auto-generated structure from the slicer to aid in adhesion. This is just a solution to a symptom and not the actual cause of your problem. As Panoreth mentioned, having a level bed is extremely important. If the first layer is too high off the bed, than it will not stick very well. Watch the first layer go down and make sure the hot end is placing plastic DIRECTLY on the bed and not dropping it some distance (even half a millimeter can be too high). Having a heated bed also helps, but this is one of those things you either have or you don't have, so in lieu of that, try using an adhesive like an Elmer's glue stick or very strong hairspray. Either of these two adhesives, combined with a level bed, should alleviate most of your problems.

Make sure that you are turning on the brim in the slicer(I use Cura), I usually have the brim line count to about 7 but you may need to use more.

What is the recommended minimum infill percentage?

that's really cool. I might try that.

are supports needed? i am about to print this in litteraly ten minuets so anybody who knows please help me!

Supports are not needed.

i actually couldn't print this because it wouldn't slice correctly. it just showed a circle floating in mid air. but i love the design!

Did you try scaling it down? If you tried scaling it down it's possible you went below the minimum wall thickness, that's why it didn't print. You can try the empire state building remix of this. That might work better.

i didn't scale it down. what is the empire state building remix?

do you know how many hours 1 roll of .5kg filament lasts

on a printrbot simple metal how long do you think it would take

Printing time varies greatly depending on the 3D printer. Infill percentage, number of shells, as well as acceleration, wipe time, cool time and many other factors all effect print time.

Simplify 3D Estimates this as taking 4 hours on my rep 1, but Simplify3D is notorious for being wrong. Still, it's a number.Anything more exact than that you'd need someone to actually print it out.

how long does it take

This is the 2nd time in a week I've been asked this.

Printing time varies greatly depending on the 3D printer. Infill percentage, number of shells, as well as acceleration, wipe time, cool time and many other factors all effect print time.

Simplify 3D Estimates this as taking 4 hours on my rep 1, but Simplify3D is notorious for being wrong. Still, it's a number. I think on a stratasys you can multiply that by 3 to get their print time. And multiply the cost by 100, though you didn't ask that.

After I printed in PLA it was so hard to get the pieces together that now if I want to clean the mouth piece it will not come apart
Do you know why it was so hard to put together?

Because I messed up the tolerances. You need a little sanding. Or you can download the updated version with better tolerances on the link listed in the description.

I printed this. It looks, sounds, and plays beautifully! However, it's tuned to a few tick above C#. Any geniuses out there know of a decent way to either tune the design, or else tune the printed instrument via modification (add/remove material)? Even with all the joints just barely hanging onto each other, it's still just a tick or two above C.

Congrats! I thought you model was one of the best choices for a 3D Printed Christmas gift! I made a link from here: http://3dprintingninja.blogspot.com/2014/12/top-20-free-3d-printed-christmas-gifts.html

Works great! I'd be really excited to see what happens if it's printed with a specialty flament!


It says the video is unavailable. Shame, I really love seeing this sort of thing.

Hmm, try copy/pasting the link? Not sure why it wouldn't work!

I really wish I had that wood filament right about now!

Excellent. I did find the top two sections in particular difficult to assemble, but I realise that airtightness is important, so perhaps there is little room for manoeuvre.

Very nice design and with a little drilling and sanding I got a tune from it.

Video here http://youtu.be/XD8evAsqzrAhttp://youtu.be/XD8evAsqzrA

As for the screeches, the way to prevent that is to just gently breathe the air into the recorder. You don't play it like a clarinet or a trumpet, which require a lot more pressure. Neat recorder, anyway.

What software did you use to design this? Please share the source file too if you want any derivatives.

Your wish is my command.

I resisted because (1) it's blender and that's not very popular 'round these parts and (2) it's a mess. Lots of fiddling by hand. I was going to try to organize it once I get my own derivative up, but this is probably better.

I'll try printing this today.

Next we need an alto recorder.

and then a Clarinet :)

This is great. One of my fave projects on Thingiverse.

how tall is the tallest part? I am limited to a print height of 100mm :(

Darn 7mm too long :(

Yeah, a 10cm build height would require segmenting it into probably 6 parts and would be complicated with the finger holes. The current dividing actually works very well, better than the previous version. Right hand on one, left hand on the other with the exception of the pinky that you can adjust however you want.

You could make a 10cm build height version if you want and post your own derivative :-D

This project should be a poster-boy for Rapid prototyping at home.

If at first you don't succeed...