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br3ttb

Tapered Pocket Coin-Op

by br3ttb Oct 10, 2011
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Hi,
it is a great design, thank you for that. I made one but with 40 % infill it breaks quickly. I will try with more infill.

It seems that a 0.2 € coin fits well in the slot.

Regards.

Joachim

I used 0.1€ ;-)

What's the hidden notch inside the plastic up in the top left corner? If you pull it into TinkerCad and look in the "hole" mode you can see a hollow spot which concerns me cause that top left corner is now weak and can snap off. Does anyone else see this and know???

This isn't slicing at ALL with Slic3r, and ends up with a ton of problems with the mesh. 13 intersecting triangles. Not Manifold at ALL. :( Unable to print with Repetier...

Maybe this is just a problem with the STL importer for Sketchup (I was trying to add my own logo to it) but what I ended up with (even before modification) was a model that was not at all manifold. So when I went to print it the MakerWare slicer kind of freaked out and just left out whole sections of the model. It may just be that most people are using SkeinForge and maybe that's better at handling these things, but can anyone confirm that the model is actually a proper solid?

Just send the file off to http://netfabb.comnetfabb.com and it will make it manifold. Everything I make in sketchup I send to netfabb.

It's just http://netfabb.com not the one above.

I think this link is no longer available and now it leads to some phising websites!

Built one today and it cracked with the first beer i opened... thoughts?

>90% infill?

wrapped the penny in kapton, slipped in mid print, good to go! 8-)

I paused the print right before it started printing over the top of the penny. Had to coat the top of the penny with some Elmer's glue from a glue stick, then it adhered perfectly.

hi i tied printing this but i could not get the penny to fit wither while pauseing teh print or post print o was wpnderioong ifi needed to scale the thing up soi could get eh coin in

many thanks dante

I made 6 or so on my Replicator. I didn't even think to insert the penny mid way, I just pushed it in with vice grips, which works fine. These are great to hand out, I have to learn how to put multiples on the bed so I can print them faster.

Very hand. Thanks 8-)

Glad they're working for you! take a look at this derivative: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13262http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

he got 4 onto a thingomatic build platform. by examining his modifications to the .scad, you could probably figure out how to make a 6 (or 8?) opener thing for the replicator

Tapered Pocket Coin-Op (4x Print Plate)

I used a tiny bit of gum to hold the penny in place while the print finished! =-X

Scratched my head for awhile since none of the designs or the copies/variations discussed what to do with the penny. Seems to me that's a fairly integral part of this design: when to insert it.

After reading everyone's bridging issues on the original Pocket Coin-Op Bottle Opener (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11025)http://www.thingiverse.com/thi... I'm thinking it's simply slid in as the last step but luckily I wasn't smart enough to think that far in advance so I simply paused the print at the halfway point (which I
only knew when it started the 1st layer across the "bridge" part), pushed the penny into the soft ABS, then let it go on about its business. Here's how mine turned out.

I'm thinking there should be a pause and either a platform move forward or a nozzle move up
&
amp; away built into the code to allow placing the penny at the halfway point and then closing the slot a little to hold the penny in permanently.

Pocket Coin-Op Bottle Opener
by br3ttb

I love LOVE the pic with both openers on the same keyring. I think you'll find the penny one to be better all around. still. makes me feel great to see those together.

sorry about the penny thing. yeah I insert them after the print. generally I get it started in the opening, then use a pair of standard pliers: one jaw on the penny, one jaw on the short edge of the opener. squeeze and done.

For me, Skeinforge 41/43 tries to bridge across the hole diagonally, instead of side to side. Of course there's nothing at the front of the hole on that first bridging layer, so the bridging just falls in ;) Any thoughts on how to cure this? I still managed to make a few of them, but used various tricks (inserting penny during print, pulling it off the bed hot and inserting, etc). Thanks!

I have seen the same problem. My solution was to change the angle in fill to either 90 or zero degrees. one of the two will cross over nicely. To bridge the gap even better, I think you should go fast and extrude no or fewer material, as light strings cool better and sag less.

I'm still using SF35 on replicatorG 25, and haven't encountered this problem, so I'm not sure. generally if something dangles down into the slot I trim it out with an exacto before insertion. also, I use a pair of pliers to squeeze the penny in if there's resistance.

anybody else have any ideas?

I just experienced this problem printing the saturday killer (a derivative. see above.) I needed to xacto the heck out the entrance to get the penny started.

now I too am thinking of tricks I can pull to keep that entrance open during printing. I'd much rather fix the issue in skeinforge though. anyone have any ideas? anyone?

I wish I knew how to reach enrique so we could just ask :)