Geeetech Kossel Delta Rostock Mini G2s - Acrylic PIeces

by Nevaar, published

Geeetech Kossel Delta Rostock Mini G2s - Acrylic PIeces by Nevaar Dec 31, 2015



Design Tools


A part of these Groups

View All

Liked By

View All

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

1125Views 363Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts


Printable pieces to replace the arcylic items for the
"Geeetech Kossel Delta Rostock Mini G2s"

Just received my Geeetech G2s Pro Dual today. Forums indicate that certain acrylic pieces are prone to breakage, and no models/plans exist. So wanting to ensure a ready supply of replacement parts, I knocked these out real quick. These parts are measured directly from the acrylic. Larger, generally unprintable pieces are not included (yet).

Measurements haven't been validated for accuracy - intended as a 'running start' for if/when I ever need to replace.

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

Just a heads up, The RK-09 are about double the thickness of the stock RK-09.


Can you also design the spool holder parts? mines broke and I have a prusa I3 where I can print larger parts.

Will print these LCD frame parts ASAP also broke on mine. Really appreciate your work.


Be wary of these parts! They are rough placeholders at best. The plan was to correct them to fit if/when I broke one (haven't done either of those yet). Was waiting on my micrometer while throwing these into TinkerCad, and best-guessed it with an engineering scale. Note: my acrylic pieces are so poorly cut, and inconsistent in thickness that it's a wonder it went together at all.

Thank you for this stuff , this was just what i need.

I just print a RK07 to use one of the fan of the extruder (that are just useless) to cool the control board.

And after the print I discover that it was not at the right scale ! thickness is 7mm instead of 7,6 and width is 38 instead of 44.

I modified my file to adapt to the right dimensions but perhaps a size verification before printing is a good idea !

yeah, I didn't actually use calipers or anything. My acrylic all seems pretty close to 7mm thick (using a metric architect's scale). I did notice that not all of the acrylic were cut well. Maybe the chinese laser was getting dull?. Anyway, if needed, thhe pieces should be close enough to get you mostly there.

Great job.

I have the G2S pro as well. Thanks for posting these

Would love to see how you go about creating a PLA cooling fan for the setup...

Jan 1, 2016 - Modified Jan 1, 2016
Nevaar - in reply to lemming77

Since you have the pro, too, where the heck does the auto level probe plug in on the GT2560? The instructions on the Geeetech wiki don't mention it. That is the last thing to plug in before I'm finished and can start calibrating.

Haven't considered any additional cooling as yet. Might go for the always-on option on the hot-end fan. Maybe swipe a shroud from the thingiverse and force-fit it with Tinkercad if needed :)

I did just find this though: https://plus.google.com/110931357643992558758/posts/M7JiD3vcsSx


Oh, I printed my motor mounts (RK-02/RK-03) and it works well enough (with a little filing and sanding) as a replacement but they should be fixed and combined into a single unit. Haven't tested any other of the parts.


That's where it goes, but the ABL doesn't seem to work very well. Spider seems to twist a little as it probes.

Anyway, my GT2560 blew up due to faulty thermistor wiring by Geeetech (shorted out near the hotend after a few weeks), so I swapped it over for an Arduino 2560 and RAMPS 1.4 board plus LCD board. After a little firmware modification, it works as good as new.

Just today I started having a little play around with a RAMPS-FD plus LCD adapter board and an Arduino DUE (32 bit ARM processor). Will finish looking over the Marlin4due code and add 1/32 stepper drivers later on tonight and see if it reduces noise.

If anyone needs the Marlin code for either, let me know...

I solved the unstable probe issue with a couple of small threads of copper wire wrapped around the hot ends and the probe. Not enough to catch anything, but holds the probe itself stable enough to do the job quite well. Added bonus (?) is the copper wire transfers heat to the probe pin (adding some extra heatsink capacity). Got the bed within 0.05mm on all 12 points. :)

Would you mind showing a picture of how it looks?

I'm in the middle of replacing th GT2560 board with RAMPS 1.4. When done, I'll post pic will all the modifications and links to the parts. For now though, I've installed:

these filament guides: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1257448
this for filament cooling: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1242110

The auto-probe issue can be solved with a simple modification to the cooler above, to hold the in position.

Geeetech MK8 Filament Guide
by wbrucem
GEEETECH G2 G2S delta printer 40mm fan support for filament cooler

Oh, as a side note I just have to say that while I really, really hate my DaVinci Uno 1.0 with a passion (it is not FOSS friendly out of the box, and filament is a touch pricey and quite limited in selection), it is reliable and produces nice prints. I mention this because I'm finding that the more I dink around with 3d printing, the more obvious becomes that a person can't have just ONE of these infernal contraptions. You need a minimum 2 3d printers, or at least access to a second one. :)