settlers catan style (magnetic)

by Dakanzla, published

settlers catan style (magnetic) by Dakanzla Jan 1, 2016

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Catan is a great game that I played since I was a kid and I apriciate the effort of it's designers a lot to create such a beautiful and versatile game. My intention with this collection is not to give you a fully printable version of the game and all its parts, so you don't have to buy the original game anymore. The idea behind my designs is, to give you something that you can add to your game and make your catan-expirience even better with something you made on your own. I hope that the creativity behind 3-D printing is also going to give this game the possibility to evolve by the ideas of it's growing community. And no, I'm not going to sell those pieces. :)

I combined YAWongs tiles together with magnetic bases. I used 3mm round-magnets for the base that you can order online (for example here: http://m.tinydeal.com/de/product/216-x-3mm-buckyballs-magic-magnetic-diy-balls-neocube-puzzle-toy-p-53856). To enter the magnets into the base, use something flat and metalic so the magnets stick easely to it and you can enter them into the wholes with some force. Important is, that the magnets don't come out again. To be sure you're use the right settings, I recomend you to print the test-base-piece. If the magnets go in right and still are able to turn in the wholes, keep these printer settings for all the tiles you're goint to print and use if you can the same filament. Nothing is more annoing than have printed a tile for hours just to find out the magnets don't stick to it...

Heres a fantastic build-guide from buildxyz, which offers you many usefull infos about planing, printing and painting the game: https://www.buildxyz.xyz/3d-catan-better-settlers-build-guide/

For the painting it could help to check out videos about how to paint minitaures. Especially how to do effects like "drybrushing" (check out the video from doc faust:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tj9XNbwfwHo). My painting-scills are not really good and this was the first time I tried to paint someting this small. But with the help of the instructions from YouTube, it was not such a big deal. So you can do it as well, I'm sure :).

Concerning the roules for the base game check out this link: http://www.catan.com/service/game-rules

To have a overview about all Szenarios & variants for settlers of catan check out this pdf: https://kelvsyc.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/r13.pdf

For the base game you need the following materials to print. Choose yourself which individual tile-designs you prefere for the game:

  • Tiles (landscapes): 4 x wood, 4 x wool, 4 x wheat, 3 x brick, 3 x ore, 1 x desert, 9 x water with Harbor, 9 x water without Harbor
  • Portmarkers: 1 x portmarker 3-1, 1 x portmarker 2-1 (one wool is not needed)
  • 1 x sandstorm or 1 x tornado (thief)
  • For each player: 15 x road, 1 x Settlements-set (4 x cities, 5 x Settlements), 1 x road-connections-set (9 pieces)
  • 18 x number-tokens (optional)

If you don't want to use magnets, I have made some interlocking parts for the landscapes here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2035221

BORDERS (by explosiveegg): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2100711
ADDIDIONAL PIECE-HOLDERS (by MagnusH): https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149160



STORAGE: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1482713


Big thx to all the designers that helped me to build this game with their superbe work

Print Settings


Prusa i3 (hephestos)







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Great models, thanks for putting them out there. I am having some trouble loading specifically the ore_newbase into slic3r though. Most of the polygons don't appear to survive to import, but they are showing up in other model viewers. Any tips?

I used cura with all my models and for the printing and had no problem at all...

That worked! Having a much easier time with Cura on some other models too, thanks for the suggestion.

May I use this model to sell it? As 3d printed thing

Please check out the typ of licensce under which this thing was created

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but I was just getting ready to print the newbase desert tile and noticed the the desert surface isn't in contact with the base. Checked the thingview on here and saw the same thing. Otherwise, awesome job! Printing the last board tile now then onto the game pieces.

Hey, I updated the file and now there should be no gap. Don't know how this could happen. Let me know if it shouldn't be working now :-)

No problem at all. I actually use S3D so I used the separate shells feature and set it where it belongs. Thanks for keeping on top of this project!

Would you be able to post the catan_main_number-tokens as individual files? I unfortunately can't fit them all on my print bed at one time.

Use tinkercad to cut them in half. Its really an easy program :)

I just tried putting the magnets in the lighthouse and the holes aren't round so the magnets don't stay in. Any chance you could take a look at that? Down to my last few pieces and can't wait to play this. Thanks for the great game.

Hy, I'm sorry. Unfortunately I did upload the wrong lighthouse-file when I modified it lately. Now it should be the right one :-)

Awesome, thank you very much.

Have you considered doing a mutli material version of this, That + a prusa with mutli material upgrade would be amazing

Got my multicolorupgrade yesterday, so probably yes :)

I have painted my set with acrylics as suggested, but i'm worried that the 20-or-so hours of painting will wear off because we play catan a lot and since the color ends up matte. What should I use to seal/finish it? I can find nothing definitive on the internet, it's all for paintings, which would not get handled much.

I have used clear varnish on previous project and got a very durable result. The kind of varnish you use doesn't really matter much as far as i know. I've been using acrylic varnish though, as it has the least odour. I usually spray 2 layers but I did 3 for my catan pieces. I recomend using a glossy varnish, so you can wipe of any stains. I also sprayed the sea tiles (which I didn't paint) so all parts have the same glossy finish.

thank you for the response!

As a side-note, we didn't know about priming first and simply painted the pieces. This may explain why it was so painstaking to get an even coat. It ended up turning out relatively well after multiple coats, but i have no ideal how it will be on longevity.

Comments deleted.
Jun 19, 2017 - Modified Jun 19, 2017

Some of these gaps just look like the board hasnt been aranged precicely. Do you plan to insert magnets? If you do the tiles should automatically come close together, or use some borders. Dont have much experience with abs but as I know when it bends its more the upper way and not in the width.

Jun 20, 2017 - Modified Jun 20, 2017
carrtoonist - in reply to Dakanzla

Thanks for the reply! I have already inserted the magnets actually http://imgur.com/a/XZKtF They do their job quite well! For the most part the tiles fit together quite snuggly, but in some areas there's gaps up to 4-5 mm wide. I'm almost certain this is an error on my part as most of the prints I've seen on here don't have these gaps.

Jun 19, 2017 - Modified Jun 26, 2017

Great set! I recently finished printing all the tiles for the base game, but I believe I made a mistake during the process http://imgur.com/a/BUAZl I've got gaps betweens the tiles in certain areas. Has anyone else had this problem? I printed everything in ABS (should I have used PLA?) using a Flashforge Dreamer. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Edit: For anyone that might be having similar issues, I believe I've nailed it down. My pieces that aren't perfect hexagons were likely removed while the plate (and the printed piece itself) was still hot. So I likely bent them as I was shoving my putty knife underneath them; flattening them out afterwards altered the shape. I'm going to start printing replacements for these pieces and let them cool first to see if that improves the fit.

Hello all, first off let me say that this set is here is the sole reason I brought a 3D printer, you'll find my specs below. Here's my issue... each tile is taking forever to print! 7 to 8 hours to be exact. I've gone through pages and pages here in this topic but can't seem to find away to shorten the time. I've been printing at 0.1. Now I did the obvious and changed my layer height to 0.2 and that brought it down to around 4 to 5 hours but I'm really trying to keep it at 0.1 I did notice the quality between the two. Any advice would be great! thanks guys!

Monoprice Maker Select V2
PLA filament
Layer Height: 0.1
Infill Density: 15%
Print Speed: 40mm
Infill Speed: 50mm
Travel Speed: 80mm

Jun 18, 2017 - Modified Jun 19, 2017
pgrunwald - in reply to DarkIsamu

Sounds about right to me and your settings are very close to mine.

Cura 2.5
Layer Height: 0.1
Infill Density: 15%
Print Speed: 42mm
Travel Speed: 106mm
Initial Layer height .09
Initial layer speed 21mm

Spool: Hatchbox PLA White
2017-06-06 08:08 >>>>08:24:43<<<<< 7.82m

These are pretty detailed models, look at the size of the gcode! You could print more per session but you lose more if the print fails.

Any reason why some tiles have an extra "border" while some don't?
For example ore2 file the mountain flows all the way to the edge of the roads while in the wheat tiles of ore 1 there is a n extra set of borders about 3-4mm.

Jun 16, 2017 - Modified Jun 18, 2017
Dakanzla - in reply to corneliut

The ancestors do tell a story that there was once a big erruption of vulcano nr. 6 that caused huge changes in the surface of catans landscape when the earth was shaking and finally cracked open. But I m not shure if its true or just a rumor. :)

Would the ancestor(s) be willing to travel back in time, adjust the timeline (and the models), remove the borders and let the tiles flow all the way to the roads? :)

In the stories of the ancestors, the creater of their world was known as quiet lazy. He took pieces from other, simular worlds instead of creating them by his own. But after their many sacrificial offerings maybe things are going to change :)

Jun 9, 2017 - Modified Jun 9, 2017

The pieces aren't watertight and manifold. The 3D pieces for print must be watertight and manifold. You can't slicer it with "Slic3r" may works with "Cura"
Too thick, too much material.

Can I sell one of these ?

Please check the liscense-type of this thing in the description

what primer are you guys using?

Gray Rattle can from walmart, cheap

Wow. I mean. WOW.

Thx now you just have to print it :)

Can you link to the self adhesive felt foil you used? I'm using the latest stl files but for some reason the magnets aren't staying in the holes.

I bought mine in a supplie-store. I used afoil that is normally used to be placed under furniture to prevent scratches on the floor. Did you already print a lot of the tiles?

Yeah, almost all of them have been printed. Just got the magnets, they take forever to get from China. I noticed if I increase my extrude percentage to 150% the magnets fit well. I'll print the rest of them like that.

Is this the felt you're talking about?

I was thinking I could buy some felt cloth/sheets cut out hexes and use contact cement to glue it to the bottom. That way I can avoid having glue/adhesive over the hole that the magnet might stick to. It would also look really nice, like some nice chess pieces.

Thanks for all putting this project together and all your support. This project is why I bought a 3D printer. :)

Hy, that's why I wrote in the description, that it would be better to test first with the test-piece that the magnets stay in place :-) But don't worry. I also used felt-foil for my tiles, because I liked the style of it. The one's from your link are going to be too small. You need something similar but bigger in size. I applied the foil directly on the tiles and had no problems with the magnets sticking to the foil.

Would it be possible to release the files for the tiles so they can be edited for different magnets? I personally have 5mm x 1mm disc magnets and would prefer to not have to destroy tiles post printing to install them. Thank you.

What do you mean by releasing? The files are available here and if you want to adapt them to your needs you can use any cad-program, like tinkercad, to make your own magnets fit.

May 15, 2017 - Modified May 15, 2017
sandhozj - in reply to Dakanzla

Sorry, I usually see soldworks model files or scad, step, or other non stl files for customization.
Also, apologizes for so many questions, as is will the 5th edition game border fit the current tile size or do you recommend just printing the ports and ocean tiles as well?

Did you airbrush a base coat then brush in details by hand? What colors of acrylic, oil, or water based paint did you use? It looks natural and very well thought out. Thanks again

No problem :) unfortunately I havent made any customizable tiles jet, but a rework to make your magnets fit in tinkercad shouldn't be verry difficult. Actually I dont know the exact size of the 5th edition tiles. But if you want to make sure you can also mesure their sizes in tinkercad before printing. I used normal acryl colors and no paintbrushing. It reall helps to check out some videos on youtube about painting miniatures.

Thanks for that fantastic Thing.

I have problems by catan_main_harbour_lighthouse_newbase the Top of the Lighttower is not sliceable.

Did you tried it with cura?

Yes Witz cura AMD S3D Booth the same Problem the Top of the lighthouse

Hy I made the test with cura 2.3.1 and I cant see any issue in the file or in the slicing. I send you a picture from cura so you can see that as well...

I fixed the lighthouse-tile and it should work now :)

Hello, great project. It wants to implement it for some time but unfortunately the magnetic balls do not hold. I do not know anymore. Prints on a Prusa i3 Mk2s which prints perfect dimensions. Calibration cube 20x20x20 perfect. The balls are all so between 2.95 and 2.99mm. I have already tried to adjust the dimensions of the plates to 99%. But even then the balls still fall out. Does anyone know a solution?

I have testet with simplify3d and slic3r prusa edition. all 0.1mm

Thanks, bye

also the test cube only tells you the outside dimenstions, inside demensions can still be off.

In simplify3D play with the "horizontal size compensation" option under "other" (bottom left).
There you can alter the "wall thigness" (kind of). So if holes are to small, put a negative number in and if holes are to big, put a positive number in.

Thx for the help :)

You could just drop some super glue in the hole then set the magnets in. Or if you might want to reuse the magnets with out destroying the game tiles; set the magnets in and hot glue them in, like capping the hole almost. The layering texture of FDM printing should be enough to hold the hot glue, also careful not to use to much glue or the plastic may deform.

Superglue is brobably not the best way to keep the magnets into place, because if they cant rotate freely they will probably reject each other when the polarisation of the magnets is not matching each other.

To those who used acrylic paint for the tiles: Did you use any primer? And how long did it take till the paint was dry? Is the paint sticky?

I have started painting some tiles. I did not use any primer and applied only a thin layer of paint. About 36 hours have passed and the paint is still sticky. Do I just need to wait a little longer or could this be an error of mine?

Apr 8, 2017 - Modified Apr 8, 2017

I made a big mistake and printed everything and even started painting most of it, only to find out the magnet balls do not turn in their holes, in fact they are so tight I see the side bulging out a bit. Obviously I can't use magnets now because of polarity issues. Is there any way you can design a border for this set that holds the pieces in the center? Maybe a hexagon that fills in the water gaps and has straight outer sides so the game is a perfect hexagon with straight sides? They could be printed in pieces in some way and then painted blue to match the water. I don't know. But I'm so bummed I put everything away for now. I could design my own border but I think you would prob do a much better job.

Drill a slight bigger hole for the magnet so they can be put inside the hole and rotate. Of course now they would fall, but you can tape a hex piece of felt or good quality (strong/thick) paper to the back of the tile, so the holes are closed - and you get a nice bottom for your tiles too.

Catan Border with Snaps for Magnetic Version
Comments deleted.

Random Tip: I had problems with getting the magnets to lock in on the brick tiles (it might be the Filament I was using for them)
seting 'Horizontal Expansion' to 0.1 and X and Y scale to 99.75 (to keep the same size of the other tiles, not that 0.2 size incress would realy matter) the magnets locked in well.

Should this be printed without a heated bed, will there be warping without one?

Withou a heatbed, there probably will be some warping, depending how good the material sticks to the printbed. The tiles I printed on my pruisa i3 (no heatbed) also had some warping, but It didnt matter to much.

I don't know ow what the speed is on the MPSM, but I ran it at 1.0x speed and it finished the brick in about 3:30. So the estimated times I posted might be a little low.

Would it be possible to get a close-up of your paint job for each of the tiles? I'd love to mimic it!

Hy if you enlarge the pictures on your comuter the should be enogh detailed. You can also check out the picture of my expansions and variants. There you find many more pics :)

Just started printing the brick. What are the tiny little things supposed be on those pieces? Piles of brick? Looks like they are white if I'm seeing the pictures correctly. I just want to know what I'm painting

Almost done with the actual board pieces. I really am in love with this set. Its taking a long time to print each and has my new Robo 3d R1 + running pretty much not stop since I got it. I was originally making this for my friends Dad who I play the game with when I head up to NH to visit them but I may just keep this for myself. That time sheet is really useful @tjans thanks. I am not sure if the times differ between programs I am using Matter Control although I may switch to something else I have Simplify 3D just haven't gotten into the swing of using it yet. Matter Control seems to crash on Highly detailed prints. Not these yet but who knows. Alright enough of the book, I just wanted to say thanks for putting this all together in such a detailed format. I'll have pictures up once I am done. When I get this done and get around to it I will work on the expansions as well.

Mar 23, 2017 - Modified Mar 24, 2017

I loaded the pieces up in Cura and the estimated time for each piece is as follows:

Layer height: .1
Shell thickness: .8
Fill density: 15%

Wood1 - 4:06
Wood2 - 4:17
Wood3 - 4:17
Wool1 - 2:46
Wool2 - 2:40
Wheat1 - 2:52
Wheat2 - 2:51
Brick1 - 2:45
Brick2 - 2:51
Ore1 - 3:42
Ore2 - 3:21
Desert - 2:29
Harbor - 2:37
Harbor1 - 2:23
Harbor2 - 2:23
Harbor3 - 2:33
Water - 2:20
Portmarker 3-1 - 1:03
Portmarker 2-1 - 1:51
Sandstorm - :37
Tornado - :40
Road - :08
Settlements - 2:22
Road connections - :32

My Wheat 2 log, Cura quick print, high detail in PLA. Pretty spot on estimates. for a Lulzbot.

Print started at 21:05:36
< X:0.00 Y:191.00 Z:159.00 E:0.00 Count X: 0 Y:19196 Z:254400
< X:0.00 Y:191.00 Z:10.00 E:-30.00 Count X: 0 Y:19196 Z:16000
< Setting Print and Travel Acceleration: 300.00
< G29 Auto Bed Leveling
< Eqn coefficients: a: -0.00446310 b: -0.00189914 d: -2.46077179
< Bed Level Correction Matrix:
< +0.999990 +0.000000 -0.004463
< -0.000008 +0.999998 -0.001899
< +0.004463 +0.001899 +0.999988
< X:0.01 Y:162.00 Z:1.43 E:-30.00 Count X: 2 Y:16282 Z:1796
< Setting Print and Travel Acceleration: 2000.00
Print finished at 23:59:55
Total print time : 2:54:18

Mine is taking longer Wool 1 is taking almost spot on 4 hours but then I slowed down my speed in places as I was have problems getting the magnets to lock in place. Also printing at layer height 0.8 for the tiles and 0.6 for the settlements and roads. Cant remember if shell thickness is set to 0.8 or 1.2. I know I print the stroage in with a 1.2 thickness. But I also print that with a layer height of 0.25

Mar 23, 2017 - Modified Mar 23, 2017
Dakanzla - in reply to tjans

Thx a lot verry useful list. Could you also say for what layerhight you calculated them?

Layer height: .1
Shell thickness: .8
Fill density: 15%

I plan to start printing these soon. Hopefully I can get them looking nice. I'm a pretty good mini painter but I'm not so great at smoothing out the print lines yet as I've only been printing for a month. I'll be using the MonoPrice Select Mini.

Will do so when I get home...

What print speeds are you planning on using? I printed a water piece on the Monoprice Select Mini with an initial print speed of 10mm/s and a print speed of 50mm/s, and it took 5 hours and 10 minutes. This was with the same settings that you listed above. If you're getting faster print times, please let me know. I'm not sure what the max print speed is for the Select Mini, but I think it's about 50-55mm/s. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

Printing this atm and I love it. I would also like to print a smaller vertion of this but the magnets would not fit. Is there any kind person that could make a remix vertion of the tiles that are smaller but still have the same magnet size holes. maybe just 70% the size and 2 magnet per side?

how long does it normally take to print one piece? i dont have a 3d printer but i own a cnc router and imported it in my program. its telling me 30 min to cut roughly at 100 inch per min.

Each took me about 1hr 30min for a single tile (all but the Ore pieces). I printed at Normal .20mm @ 20% fill for these and they turned out great! (Original Prusa i3 MK2 using Inland blue PLA)

hello, can you please share your settings (which slicer do you use ?). I have the same printer it takes me 3h to 4h (wood) to print a tile @normal 20% infill.
Also, I am using Slic3r from Prusa, and I have errors on the models, some unrecoverable. I used Windows 3D printing tool to fix them.

The wood tiles did take a bit longer for me as well, almost 2hrs 38min for the model without as many trees. I'm currently using Cura to slice the models. The basic water tiles were the quickest at 1h 40min because there really wasn't much height to print and details were lower for the water. I don't remember what layer height Normal was within Slic3r but I've printed these at 0.20 layer height. The only model I couldn't get to print from my machine was Ship2 - it shifted the print every time I attempted it, so I just printed extra Ship1/Ship3.

Thanks for the input.
I did slice with Cura, 0.2mm and printed the harbour lighthouse in 1h45 which is almost what Cura expected.
I'll try wood with Cura as well, Cura says 2h50.

The print time depends on the precision you want to print. With normal details I would say about 2.5 hours

How do you get the magnets to line up. They fit in super tight and then they don't turn so they just repel each other...

Did you try to push them as far inside as you can? Maybe they got stuck.

Hy if they are exactely 3mm in diameter and if the printersettings dont make the wholes to tight, they should be able to turn.

Dakanzla, what kind of color filament did you use for the water and harbor? Do you have a link to that color? thanks.

Hy, I used translucent blue Filament from innofil 3 D: https://www.innofil3d.com/product/pla-blue-tr-2-85mm-750gr/

I saw some other examples of the game (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:292145) that used the ice blue Filament, that also looks great: https://www.innofil3d.com/shop/?filters=color[ice-blue-translucent]

Hope I could help you :-)

settlers catan style (magnetic)

What a REAL nice use of our filament! Thanks for mentioning us (and we really do love this print!)

This is awesome and super-detailed. Good job, dude! ;)

Thx :) I just combined most of the files from other designs. Your credit also belongs to those designers :)

Can i show pictures of printed parts on my 3dhubs hub page? The license sais "Non-commercial" but i think that this only forbids me to sell printed parts right?

No problem there. It's as you said :)

Printing this out for a friend. I don't play but they love it. What a time commitment this project is. But honestly it is amazing. Thank you.

Just to verify: I read in the comments that you need to use 666 magnets, is this correct? (I'm not exactly a mathematical miracle, and want to make sure I order enough magnets) I would also like to add that I absolutely love this project, and can't wait to have it all finished!

Thats true, 37 tiles x 18 magnets = 666 magnets :) goog luck! :)

Thank you very much!

I actually just put magnets in the inside and outside holes of each edge, leaving the center hole empty, and they're sticking together well enough that way. That reduced the total magnets needed by 6 per tile, of course. Saved quite a bit of magnetism, considering that I printed enough tiles for the 5-6 player expansion.

Mar 20, 2017 - Modified Mar 20, 2017
xDEFENDtheDENx - in reply to DrUsual

Any thoughts on going back to the complete set of magnets (18/tile)? I like your thought here and just about to purchase my magnet sets + enough for the 5/6 player pieces. Wanted to make sure it was holding up after some use and still plenty of attachment. Thx.

Nope, I've used it quite a bit now and it seems to be working quite well with just two magnets per edge. I think the connection would be a little weak if you only used one; I suspect they'd slide apart. However, I printed enough tiles to do the 5-6 player game, and with only two magnets per edge I can move the entire board without dislodging anything. It's really a great design; the wall thickness is just enough to be sturdy but just thin enough to let the magnets do their job, and not a single one of the magnets has fallen out -- they took a little pressure to force into the recesses, but overall, the whole system works great. With two magnets. :)

Awesome - two magnets it is! :) Thanks again.

I agree thats a possibility but depends on the quality of the magnets you get.

Remember the part where I just said, "they're sticking together well enough that way?"

Yeah now I remember :)

Comments deleted.

Hey mate,

Just wanted to say thanks for this! looks amazing and is printing great (about 50% of the way through)! definitely one of the coolest projects on Thingiverse.

Hey it's nice to hear, that you like the design :-) Hope it will be great fun to play it and good luck with the rest of your print / painting :-)

Hello. Do you have these models also in a different format like for example STEP (or some other volumetric format)? I would like to modify it to inter-lockable tiles, because the magnets are kind of expensive. I've tried to convert STL tiles to volume bodies in Solidworks, but many of them fail and only import as surfaces. I would like to avoid wasting time fixing these errors. Thank you for reply.

Hy, I had some time yesterday and created these: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2035221. Hope you can use them :-)

settler catan style interlocking tiles

I found this version of the tiles on thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1991496 they use less magnets and maybe you get them for a cheaper price. For my version with the 3mm magnets you need a total of 666 magnets (37 x 18). On tinydeal (http://m.tinydeal.com/de/product/216-x-3mm-buckyballs-magic-magnetic-diy-balls-neocube-puzzle-toy-p-53856) you get them for about 20 $, but I didn't order mine there, so I don't know about the quality. Maybe you order some for 5 Bugs and try if they work?

Catan terrain tiles, modified for cylindrical magnets

Unfortunately not, I just have them available in stl-format. Maybe you find a converter for that purpouse. I designed all the tiles with tinkercad and I can imagine, that it would be quiet easy to create interlocking parts with tinkercad as well.

Anyone have a link to magnets that'll work here? I've been searching Amazon and the Internet in general for 3" spherical magnets and coming up blank -- I find a ton of 3mm ball bearings that all clearly say they're NOT magnetic.

There is a link to the magnets in the Thing Details. I just order 2 sets from that link yesterday.

Yeah, I think it just got added to the Thing Details. :) I did find it by scrolling through the comments, though. I ordered a few sets from TinyDeal before Christmas, and they still haven't shipped. Ugh. Spoiled by Amazon Prime.

Can someone say how much PLA they have used up printing the entire project?
Assuming ~15% infill and ~0.4mm top/bottom/sides. Or post your settings next to the amount you have used.

I am interested in doing it, but if it really takes 2kg of filament, well, that's quite a lot for me. I do have the original game and this will just be a fun project/upgrade.

Printed the whole set in white pla, and used roughly 1kg including 2 tile misprints, and used different colours for the roads and cities, so some more grams for that, at roughly 18 bucks a kg pretty fair i would say.

Comments deleted.

2kg for me.
But i have some failed, some electric failed.
I print also all the ressource token, long road, largest army token (even if i have the original game !)

I printed all the tiles (water and land) in white PLA. It took me 1-1/2 spools but that is because I had a few fail, i printed extra land pieces, and a re-printed the trees tiles with a super slow speed. I used cheap PLA from Microcenter. If you have one close by, their Inland PLA is like $15-17 for 1kg.

This is really amazing! :D

Hi Brand new here I don't know if you could help me... would I be able to print these pieces with the following printer i am looking to purchase a printer in the most part firstly to create pieces like this XYZ Printing da Vinci Junior 3D Printer if not could you recommend a printer that could do this at a reasonable price. many thanks


I have an XYZ da Vinci Junior 1.0 printer and I was able to print these just fine. I turned them out on normal settings for the actual tiles themselves and was very pleased by how they looked. I primed and painted them, no filling or anything other than a few seconds of sanding off a couple burs and they look great! I did run into an issue with the "ore base one" where when sliced and output to the SD card, you could see the model was goofy even after autorepair. When I tried printing it, it came out completely messed up. I dont know if the issue is with the software or the file, but I know its not the printer since I ran off the other ore file just fine. I get its not nearly as nice as a printer compared to a lot of the other models out there, but for $250 I am perfectly pleased with what its done with this.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
explosiveegg - in reply to jualhadun87

That is due to the xyzware picking up artifacts in the stl file. Most software is smart enough to deal with these issues. If you have windows 10, open up 3D builder. Import the file, click fix issues, then save the file again as an .stl. This will remove the artifacts. If you do not have 3D builder install just load it into tinkercad (a free 3D modeling website, though you'll need to setup an account) and resave it.

When you slice anything one xyzware it is a good idea to look at the object to make sure you don't see any issues.

Do both ore files cause the same problem? What software for slicing do you use?

The other ore file works fine, i tired redownloading a fresh file, restarting etc etc, i can see gaps once it finisbes slicing so i am pretty sure the issue is occuring there. I am using the stock xyzware and built in slicer software and all default settings. I am sure its a limitation of the software, but its odd most everything else works. There is one wood base with a tiny easy to fix error on one corner that i have printed twice, and one of the wood files never finishes slicing, so again i assume my more primitive software is the source of most of the issues. I also found the harbor inserts, once all painted, are a bit too tight of a fit, so i am probally going to reprint them at 90 or 95%.

Maybe you could try to use cura for the slicing. I used that freeware and it just worked fine.

I tried Cura, but it does not have native support for the XYZ and after doing some research, the work arounds were more than I wanted to get into right now. However, I saw a note further down about someone using the Microsoft 3D Tools Repair website to fix files, so I ran the Ore and the Forest tile that were having problems through it and they both printed just fine after the repair!

Verry glad you found a solution and thx for posting it :)

Nov 28, 2016 - Modified Nov 28, 2016
dlevine999 - in reply to almondo123

I have seen some very bad reviews of XYZ. Including some people who said that customer support was so bad that they felt like they had a ~$300 paperweight. I was seriously considering the cheapest XYZ model as a starter/learner until read this. I just ordered an Original Prusa I3 MK2 kit. After doing some research this is the only not made in USA printer I would trust.

Note: some of our printer manufactures also have had bad reviews and I'm sure that some other euro companies that I missed had good ones - do the research. I think that the company's rep is just as important as the review of any individual printer.

Try meetup.com to see if there are any 3D printing groups in your area.

Hy unfortunately I dont know the davinci printer. But I was verry happy with my prusa i3 when I started with 3d-printing. Now there is the new mk2 edition which brings some great improvements. I printed all my catan pieces with the prusa. If you want to spend more money I can also recomend the ultimaker printers but there are so many more that may be great.

The number tokens are not printing properly, I have even tried them at 100% infill. Can you submit thicker designs ?

I too am having this issue. 100% infill did not fix. They print really thin - basically it seems like only the top layers are printing. Has anyone successfully printed these with a Monoprice Mini Select?

If so, can you post instructions or gcode?

Did you try those i posted below?

I attempted to - but the obj wouldn't load into Tikercad for some reason (I wanted to cut out just one and try it before printing all). I did have a little luck with yours by first doubling the thickness. Front looked good but the letter on the back is just too shallow to print I guess. Everything else prints great! Can't wait for my magnets to arrive.

Unfortunately the tokens have to be small so they work with the other expansions. Here are some other alternatives i found: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1914689 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1807588

Settlers of Catan Number/Letter tokens, for dual extrusion
Catan Number Remix

Thank you

They have to be printed with 100% infill. Had no problem with printing them. Heres an alternative: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1045223

Settlers of Catan (Complete Set)

my 3DP is Prusa I3 with cura ,
Nozzle size 0.35 ,
Layer height 0.2

But when I print catan_main_sandstorme or catan_main_tornado in the bottom part of tornado was damage.

Is there any solution?

Hy, the files should be ok. Does the file looks ok when you open it in cura? This is probably a problem with the printer or its settings and without a picture its verry difficult to say what causes the problem.

What did you do for the bottom of the pieces? Did you cover up the magnet holes? I want to cover the bottom with a thin felt, like on the bottom of chess pieces. I can't find anywhere to buy this, anybody know where to find it?

Nov 13, 2016 - Modified Nov 13, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to RobGo

Hy, I used a self adhesive felt foil that is normaly used to put under furniture to prevent them from making scratches to the floor.
But the magnets dont fall off so its not really nescessary to put some foil on.

This may seem like a silly question, but what are the magnets for? Is it to attach to some larger base built from wood or something? Is it just to hold the road pieces in place?

The magnets do hold the landscapes together, so when you play and touch the board it doesnt fall appart :-)

Ah. I didn't realize the magnets were to be polarized along the sides, I thought they were meant for a downward pull to a lower surface.

That's why they are round magnets, so they can rotate to the correct polarization

Wow!! This are so awesome that I don't have words to describe my feellings now =)

Nov 3, 2016 - Modified Nov 3, 2016

Hey, I saw that someone below said they used 2 kg of plastic in the print. Can anyone second that or know the exact amount of plastic it takes to print everything?
Also, I've taken a look through the made section and I saw some people have printed out the thief as a hooded figure with a sheep in his arms. Does anyone know where I can find that file?

depends on test. If you use "raft" for your piece. And also density.
Exact amount is difficult to say. I print also the knight token and road token. All resources token (sheep etc...)

Comments deleted.

Is it just me or is every stl file not manifold? Got problems with the slicer result if i don't repair them.

Did you try it with cura, cause its probably a slicer problem

Oct 23, 2016 - Modified Oct 23, 2016
datdiy - in reply to Dakanzla

It is correct, that cura sliced correctly. But nonetheless they are unmanifold (not all parts, but nearly all landscape parts). ;) It is not really a problem, just more work as i have to repair them with netfabb. I use Repetier-host with Slic3r because i have heavily optimized the Slic3r settings for my printer.

Ok, sorry that I cant offer you a solution. Already read that problem with slic3r. I designed them with tinkercad and hat no issues with cura.

Oct 12, 2016 - Modified Oct 12, 2016

Very cool!
almost done printing the basic game + citys & knights! (and I'm printing for 6 players)
I use a toolbox for storrage at the moment, maybe later I'll print the whole storage as well.

Anyone any suggestions about where you can get the resource cards and dices?

Oct 12, 2016 - Modified Oct 13, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to mdbtechnics

I recomend you to buy the original game.there you get the manual, the cards and the dices as well.

Thanks for the tip!
I just contacted 999games, the official reseller of my country (The Netherlands)
€15,- for the catan and citys & nights cards including dices!

Ok, but you dont get all there that you need for playing the game like the cards that show the resources you need. As I mentioned in the description I dont offer all the game pieces with the intention that you still buy the original game...

Comments deleted.

Work in progress for me.
i used 2kg of PLA to print !
now it's painting time !
i will put some photos when i finish the painting !

Hey cool, let me see the result. I suppose the next 2 kilos go into the storage?! :)

Wow, looks like you have a talent for painting :). Verry nice! Could you post that make as well and maybe the link to your site?

First time i ever painted anything since 15 years or so in school :D
Here is the make: https://www.thingiverse.com/make:217980
(I don't have a site.)

I feel like I should tip you a beer or two. Let me know how I can do that :)

settlers catan style (magnetic)

After about 4 months of printing every other day I'm finally printing my last 3 sets of road connectors tonight. YUSSS!!

The next thing on the agenda is painting them all. I have absolutely zero experience with painting models, so any additional tips besides the dry brushing one would be fantastic!

What colors exactly were used in the picture above? (They look fantastic!)
Would I just "generously" apply the base acrylic paint to the tiles, then acrylic for the smaller features, then dry brushing to top of some details?

Hy that sounds like a lot of work, gratulations :-) I would buy a variation of acryl colors. For example two different greens and of course white. Start with the grounding, lets say with the mountain tiles (I think the most easiest ones). So paint them in grey an let the color dry. Then mix the grey with some white and paint the top part of the mountain, then maybe some more white and so on. At the end you can use the drybrush-technique to finish the pieces. Good luck but with some practice it should get easier. :-)

Aug 25, 2016 - Modified Aug 25, 2016
nicolasgramlich - in reply to Dakanzla

Thanks for the tips!

I ended up with Liquitex acrylic White, Black, Grey, Red, Brown, Yellow, Blue and Green. (I guess I could have mixed some of them, but I'm a total noob, so this should make it a little easier. This stuff is quite pricey... :D )
I also got spray primer (unfortunately not in white, but grey. Hopefully that won't be a problem? Going to test on a surplus piece tomorrow).
Finally a matte protective spray coating.

I'll post an update on how it goes. =)

Aug 26, 2016 - Modified Aug 26, 2016

First tile painted and I couldn't be any happier: http://imgur.com/a/tdAGI

I started out thinking I would go for a strong, plastic like look but pivoted to a dirty, more natural look instead.

Took about 2.5 hours in total, but I think once I get the hang of it I can do one in 20-60 minutes, depending on which tile it is.

Looks perfect :)

Would you be willing to print and paint a complete set (no scenarios or add-ons) to sell. And if so how much would you charge?

Jul 13, 2016 - Modified Jul 13, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to the_Pilot

Hy, sorry for the late answer. Was quiet busy lately. Unfortunately I dont find the time to print and paint those pieces at the moment. But if you dont have a 3d-printer, you can order them on the thingsite. The price for having them printed is about 330 bugs.

Thanks for replying, I can relate to being busy.

The holes are a bit too big on my pieces, what setting should I change or how could I change the size of the holes in the design?

You meen the mags fall out?

Hmmm, difficult to say... the wholes do have a certain radius that its smaller than the ones of the mags, so its something about the printer or the settings. I would first try to change the material output. Try it with the test piece in the files.As alternative you could change the sices in tinkercad but its some work, or you use selfadhesif-foil to cover the buttom.

just one more question. When did you download those files? Cause I did change the available files some time ago and since then, the sice of the wholes did change.

I downloaded them about 2 weeks ago. Thanks for the help, I think the magnets don't fit because they were smaller than advertised. I ordered them from the page that you had a link to, but when I measured them, they where only about 2.6mm in diameter. I think that I will just put packing tape over the holes.

Ou thats bad. I gonna take away the link then.. For my first models I used selfadhesive felt foil that is uses under chairs to prevent scratches on the floor.

Thanks for all your help. The felt foil is a good idea and I might do that instead of tape.

Jun 8, 2016 - Modified Jun 8, 2016

Forgive me if this has been asked already but I'm a beginner and the numbers model doesnt fit on my bed. I have only been playing with tinkercad (since Ive had the printer about a week) and I don't think I can break (ungroup) the model apart there. Is there some other way I can break that model apart so I can get it to fit on my bed in pieces?

Jun 8, 2016 - Modified Jun 8, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to tvance929

Hy, you're the first one asking this question :-) It's really an easy thing to do in tinkercad:

  1. Download the file with the number-tokens from thingiverse and Import it in tinkercad (size = 100%)
  2. Then insert a box-hole-piece and lay it over some of the number-tokens
  3. Then group the number-tokens and the box-hole-Piece
  4. Now you have just the number-tokens left, that where not laying under the hole-piece.
  5. Choose the menu "Design" > "Download for 3d-printing" and choose stl as Format
  6. Print the pieces
  7. Reply this procedure for all the other number-tokens

Hope I could help you

Wow... that's a bit embarrassing. I hadn't thought of using the hole tool in that way yet. Thanks much...can't wait to get home and try this and get them suckers printed! Thanks SO much for these models, they are so awesome!

Thats great. Good luck and please post your make. I'm curious to see the results :)

Well I'm a newb with both printing and painting and using the default pink filament.... So it's going to be interesting. :)

May 21, 2016 - Modified Aug 24, 2016

FYI, I have to run almost every stl through https://netfabb.azurewebsites.net . But that's with 100% success rate thereafter.

Already 13 tiles deep, magnets ordered and just got the transparent blue filament for the water =)

Was this due to the non-manifold edges? I am running into some of those with the brick pieces currently

Strange, just used cura and never had a problem with it, but I'm glad you found a solution :) good luck with the printging and painting. Let me know when its finished and how it looks like

Does enyone else had the same problem with the magnets not to atract to each other?

i'm almost done printing everything.. (what a lot of work) and ready for paint

Hmm, are they able to turn around inside the wholes?

I think that that's the problem. maybe i can force them to turn with a strong magnet.

Did you use 3mm spheric magnets? Make shure they are put into the wholes deep enough. Try to put them more inside, maybe thats the problem. Or did you use any glue?

tnx i had to push them more inside

FYI: There is different strengths of magnets, expressed in 'magnetic grade'.

Perfect :) good luck with the painting and please post your make, I'm curious to see how it looks like :)

Jun 2, 2016 - Modified Jun 2, 2016
nicolasgramlich - in reply to Dakanzla

I'm having trouble too. Half of the magnets don't turn inside of their holes, no matter how hard I try to push them deeper inside.

I'm currently playing around with using a nail to scrape out the imperfections out of the hole but that's super cumbersome, so now I ordered a Dremel with a small ball shaped (<3mm) head to i can 'drill' free a little more space in there.

Those sheep on the wool tiles are feisty :P

Of course, catan needs more wool :P

Did you have any concerns with warping when printing such large flat pieces with lots of layers? I'm working on a redesign where each tile is blank with a recessed area in the middle, in which the terrain would be a smaller piece that drops in. I haven't decided on magnets or just snap fit yet, but this two part design would allow for a large extruder tip and thick layer size to be used on the outside while still getting fine detail on the sceneries

Use PETG, it's warp free!

It's fine for me on the Flux 3D, except when I'm sloppy with the glue.

May 2, 2016 - Modified May 2, 2016

There seems to be a problem for some 3d printers (in my case the Flux 3D) where the holes for the magnets are juuuust a tiny bit too close to the edge of the tile, resulting in a tiny gap. Any tips on how to quickly fix it manually? (I can upload a photo if it's unclear what I mean)


I was printing one with a large nozzle and the slicer wouldn't even put a shell around the hole, since my 1mm nozzle was too big for it. I used Blender to move the magnets a little further inside which solved the problem with slicing, but once my magnets arrive I'll see how it affects the pieces snapping together since there'll be more plastic in the way.

Could you upload the updated stls as a remix?

I'm afraid I've only modified one piece at the moment, and I don't even know if it's going to work yet. If I get a functional solution that works well going, I'll upload everything as a remix.

Thanks, let us know please =)

In general, adding like 1mm shouldn't be a problem, those magnets are pretty damn strong.

I printed the pieces with a prusa and an ultimaker and had no problems at all. What slicer program did you use? Its quiet a big deal to change all the bases for me because there are about 50 pieces (scenarios & variants included) to adapt...

I believe Flux Studio uses Slic3R internally (not sure which version). For a better understanding what's going on, here are a few photos of the 'issue'. https://www.thingiverse.com/make:217980

For most about half of the holes, there is a tiny gap in the 5-10 bottom layers. All holes have a super thin wall for about the middle third of their height.

It might not turn out to be a problem and if I decide to put magnets in there, it'l probably be easier to manually touch things up with some primer or even glue.

settlers catan style (magnetic)

An alternative for you could be to print jawongs tiles and use those http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:242898 bases

Magnetic base for JAWONG Catan tiles
by neuport

To building the bases I used the pieces from Isolt: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1108968. So I asume, you also have problems printing these? To work with glue is quiet riski because if the magnets get stuck in the wrong way they will probably not stick together with the other tiles. Because all my designs are base on Isolts design, it's quiet difficult do change them. So it's not that I would not like to find a solution for you here, but it's going to be quiet difficult for me as well :-(. So maybe it's easier to find a solution within your printer settings if possible. I see the problem on the pictures. Is there any possibility you could use CURA (https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software) as slicer-program for your printer? Can you see on your slicer-program the problems before you print the pieces? What are the printer-settings you used for those pieces (nozzle-sice, flux-rate of the material, Resolution)?

Catan Magnetic Bases - 3mm Spherical Neodymium
by Isolt

Hy, unfortunately I cant garantie that the modells work with every printermodel on the market. There are just to many. What you could do is to try out the "make it printable" app. You find it under the button tools & utilities and send me a mail with a picture. Maybe you have to adapt some of your printer-settings like the flowrate.

I printed two of the pieces and (besides the issue with the holes) they came out absolutely fantastic!

Hey, This project is awesome. Which software did you use to design this amazinf tiles?thanks

Hey xavicatala, I used tinkercad for all the designs, but most of them are remixed from other designs. So I don't want to take credit of those designs, I just remixed them :-) If youre curious about a specific design and how it was made, I would check out in the "remixed from" section and ask the designer himself. But tinkercad (https://www.tinkercad.com/) is really a good program to start with, that is verry easy to handle and you can do quiet a thing with it. An alternativ (much more complex) would be blender (https://www.blender.org/) for example. Both are freeware. Hope I could help you a litte bit :-)

What are the settings your using for the cities and towns? I can't seem to get the makerbot to print them correctly? It's requireing me to do a ton of extra clean up and it's annoying or they won't print at all correctly.

Settlers of Catan (Complete Set)
[Better] 3D Catan Round Game Pieces
by daak93
Medieval Player Set - Settlers of Catan

I did not use any special settings. 100% fillfactor thats it. Maybe something with your printer settings? Did you try out those: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:935856 ?

3D Catan Round Game Pieces (City/Settlement/Road/Wall)

I havent printed the cities, I´m finishing the board, sorry :-/

Differences between old files and new base?

By foil you talking about those soft pads you put under?

Thats correct. But with the new bases I uploaded, you dont need no more foil to keep in the magnets

there is a slight difference. The wholes can now hold the magnets and you don't need no more foil. If you're already working with foil, just go on with it, there is no other difference with the bases than the shape of the wholes for the magnets.

Bah, perfect then, I asked because I had already printed some of the old ones, I´ll deal with the magnets when I have printed and painted everything ;-)


Good luck. Let me know if you need help :)

I´ve started printing it today... I´ll upload a picture when I have finished it ;-)

Hey cool, I'm curious for the result ^^

Are the tiles the same size as regular catan tiles? So if I print out just the land tiles will they fit with my ocean pieces?

Apr 1, 2016 - Modified Apr 1, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to CodedGames

The size is the same and they should fit :) but as the hight is not there could be problems by placing the settlements and roads at the border to the seatiles.

Good to know. I just plan on printing some of the tiles without getting magnets and plan on using the stock ocean pieces to hold everything together.

I am kind of confused, are you putting the magnet balls in after the print is complete or you putting it in during the print?

After the print is completed. The wholes are on the bottom and stay open to put in the magnets.

Aren't Isolts magnet bases supposed to "catch" magnet inside a hole? So it should be oriented upside down in your designs so one can put magnet inside in the middle of the print with 'pause' function?

Mar 8, 2016 - Modified Mar 8, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to diehart

Hy diehart, I don't think Isolts design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1108968) was made to put in the magnets while printing, but I know what you mean. I did think about that solution before I made my design. It would be a nice solution because you don't need no cover like foil on the bottom. What speaks against it is, that it takes some hours to print a tile. If I do print more than one at the time it takes even longer and I don't want to wait hourse in front of my printer to not miss the right moment to put in the magnets. Also if I do stop my printer, I do have some irregularities in the material, when I continue printing. If you prefere a solution where you do print in the magnets you can do such changes easely in tinkercad for example. If I do find some time, I'm going to do a slight modification to the existing design so you don't need any foil to cover the bottom but it's not going to be a solution where you print in the magnets.

Catan Magnetic Bases - 3mm Spherical Neodymium
by Isolt

Hi, this set looks great! Thanks for posting it.

One quick question - a quick multiplication shows 39 tilex times 18 3mm magnets per tile. That's 666 magnets, is that correct? Reason being, in canadian funds online that adds up to over 250$ for magnets.

You might consider copying these links up in the main information -- I just scrolled through 200+ comments to find a link to buying the magnets. :) Still, having the information here is very appreciated!

You might consider copying these links up in the main information -- I just scrolled through 200+ comments to find a link to buying the magnets. :) Still, having the information here is very appreciated!

You might consider copying these links up in the main information -- I just scrolled through 200+ comments to find a link to buying the magnets. :) Still, having the information here is very appreciated!

You might consider copying these links up in the main information -- I just scrolled through 200+ comments to find a link to buying the magnets. :) Still, having the information here is very appreciated!

Feb 23, 2016 - Modified Feb 23, 2016
bkandor - in reply to Dakanzla

Hey thanks! those are a bit cheaper for sure. I've just started the build process so it looks to be a fun project. My software puts support into the magnet holes which is too hard to dig out, so I'm going to have to change them to have a steep roof so no support will go there.

Ok, cant you just print it without support at all?

I actually can't, it's a limiting feature of the software. I can work around it though.

Oh, thats bad. No other slicer program possible like cura?

Comments deleted.

Greetings, first I would like to say thank you for some great pieces. So handy to have the magnetic base and the boardpiece all in one. However I want to ask about a problem I have. When I try to import for example the ore file into Slic3r 1.2.9, it comes up completely broken with artefacts and holes everywhere. I've tried to repair it but it appears too damaged.

However if I try to import it into Simplify3D, it comes up perfectly. I am not good with Simplify3D and the prints never come out just right so I was hoping perhaps you have some insight?

I installed Slic3r and could reproduce the problem you have. I just dont know whats causing it. The only solution I can offer you is to try it with CURA. There it works, or if someone else has a clue, post it here please

Unfortunately I haven't worked with Slic3r until now. Have you tried it with the original pieces from YAWong (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26979)? I dindn't Change much with the peaces, so I think it's maybe your slicerprogramm that has a problem. For working with the tiles and pieces I used tinkercad for the designing and as slicer-programm CURA. It's a free opensource programm for windows, mac and linux. So maybe you tried it out: https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list

3D Catan Terrain Pieces
by JAWong
Feb 12, 2016 - Modified Feb 14, 2016
FantasticMrFox - in reply to Dakanzla

Thank you very much for your response. Yes, Yawongs works fine, strange... Going to try on another computer. -edit-

It worked. Even though I downloaded the file and slic3r many times to try it, I always got the same result, however there was no problem when I sliced it on another computer. I am giving up on trying to figure out what the reason behind it all is, from now on I will always keep this second computer at hand in case it happens again.

Thank you again though for great remixes, and I will post pictures when they are all completed.

Are these compatible with JAwongs tiles. Ie: same dimensions etc...

hy rillon. To make the tiles I used some of JAwongs designs but I combined them with the magnetic bases from isolt (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1108968), so the dimensions concerning the hight are not the same. If you would print out Isolts magnetic bases separately, maybe you could join them with JAwongs tiles.

Catan Magnetic Bases - 3mm Spherical Neodymium
by Isolt

I have printed most of my set of Jawongs'tiles and thinking of adding the magnetic bases.

BUT My idea is to glue them to the bases so the magnets can't fall out. (basically reverse of your solution and I won't need any tape on the tiles.)

Anyway, I am thinking of cutting your designes of so that they get compatible with JAwongs tiles. If my measurements are correct I will need to cut of about 4.5 mm from the bases. Is this correct?

I used the bases from Isolt (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1108968/#files) as they where. So their hight is 4mm. Hope it works for you. Or you could print the magnets in directely, so you dont need any glue or foil.

Catan Magnetic Bases - 3mm Spherical Neodymium
by Isolt

Thats the ones i want to glue below my tiles. The idea is to color code them so i can easily switch between different editions of the game. (mostly 4 or 6 players).

My problem right now is that your harbor tiles seem to get hollow when i just slice of 4mm from the base. I guess I have to learn a bit more about 3d modelling. :)

Have you ever tried tinkercad? Its an easy program where you can achive what you want quiet easely.

Btw, can you suggest a best pratice to capture the magnets in the small packets ?
If you take something like 1mm felt with self adhesive, which is avaible quite cheap in most hobby stores, the magnets will stick to the adhesive.
any ideas ?

Feb 3, 2016 - Modified Feb 3, 2016
Dakanzla - in reply to acryd

Hey acryd, I didnt have problems with that. Turn around the tiles. Then put in all the magnets. Now their magnetical fields will adapt to each other. Now put the self adhesive foil on top. If the magnets keep stuck to the foil, they at least point the right way. With all the tiles I made I never had the problem they would not attrack eachother. Hope I could help you

Ok, i just thought about that, because of the orientation of the magnetfields, but figured that isnt no real problem at the moment.
Btw as iam currently printing and painting the base game, and for sure ill be doing the rest aswell.
Any Plan in modelling the Seafarer extension aswell ? i would be really interested in it, even if it involves printing a lot more water tiles than anticipated ;)

recently I was quiet busy with the expansion for "cities & Knights" and "traders & barbarian" I added now, but the next expansion I gonna publish is the seafarers together with the kolonies szenario. :-)

Hi, this is a great improvement to an already terrific set of tiles, but also your painting work is awesome! What kind of colours did you use for painting them? I never painted PLA before (only used XTC3D a few times). And did you print all land tiles with the same filament (same color)? I want to make this set, but I need to decide what filaments to order. I guess I will definately get the blue transparent, but I'm not sure about the land tiles. Easiest would be to print every terrain type in its own color... but if you were to use the same filament for all of them and paint over, does it matter what color the filament is (i.e. are the colors opaque enough to fully cover dark or bright PLA)? Many questions :)

Hy pastaclub, for the painting I did use normal acryl colors. For printing the tiles I used different colors. Actually it doesnt matter that much which PLA-colors you use, but I recomend to use simular colors (not darker) than the painting color. For example for the wheat yellow filament or white. For the wood green fillament or brighter and so on. When you printed one, paint the whole tile with the same collor (grounding) and then with the different colors you want to use. The PLA I used was from ORBI-TEC, but I think it doesent matter too much. I use the following PLA-colors for the tiles: Green for wood and wool, yellow for wheat and desert, white for ore, red for bricks and the transparent blue for water. Hope I could help you with that :-)

Hy afet, up to now I did put them into a box and covered them that they dont take damage. But I want to make a box for them when I´m finish with the other expansions, so everithing fits in the same box. There are already some solutions available like this one from neuport: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:176679. Maybe its gone work for you to.

Hex Tile Holders such as for JAWong 3D Catan Terrain Pieces
by neuport
Jan 10, 2016 - Modified Jan 10, 2016

Hi, Dakanzla. I'm in the process of printing these. They're coming out beautifully at .1 mm per layer, although there is some stringiness that requires cleanup on the forest tiles. I was wondering how you've gone about storing these tiles. Once they're all painted, I would not want to throw them into a box to get jumbled up and scratched. What have you done for storage?

Good morning. I don't have access to a 3D printer, but was wondering if you would be willing to print and sell? Thanks! Great work, btw!

Hey spark_div6, thx for the request. Unfortunately it took me quiet a lot of time to print and paint everything. So if I would calculate a price for the working hours and the material, the total would be almost about the price of a 3d-printer like mine (prusa i3) which was not that expensive. :-)

Ok Dakanzia. I'll look into the Prusa i3. Would it a difference if they were unpainted?

Download the file and have it printed at a 3d printing hub. They deliver as well.
I'm just getting the ones I want and casting my own in stone actually. My total cost for 6/7 tiles was just under $60 delivered.

It would make a difference, but if I would do it, it would still be a big effort and then others would ask as well. :)

I just added the settlements I used. Now there should be all parts available for download I used for the model you see on the pictures :-)

First, I'd like to say that you did an awesome job on these! I'm working on printing them out as we speak!

Now, I was looking at your roads. It's not an stl file like normal. It's an obj file, which jumps into my cad/cam program. I've never done any designing myself, so I'm unsure how to go about turning this into an stl file so I can print the roads. So can you, or someone who actually has a clue (unlike me!) tell me how to do this? or if someone could just upload the roads file in stl format, that would work too!

And please post your make on my page, I'm curious how its gona look like :)

Hy talmar, I uploaded the roadpiece you were talking about in stl now. If you have the same issue for the future again, there are many converters available for free. Just enter "obj to stl" and you find what you need to convert the file :-)

I don't know if there are more models than the pictures show but are the roads and settlements gonna be made downloadable? They seem like a cool upgrade to the bought play set.