FPV-Rover (Tank)

by markus_p Jan 10, 2016
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Thanks dude. Have a look at Version 2

i :) it's very hard to find the wiring diagram for ESC, can you give me more informations please?

I printed this a while back and it looks great, however, it seems that the friction between the treads results in the rover being unable to actually go anywhere. The treads move just fine when suspended, but once you set it down, it just sits there. I've seen similar reports of this issues with other similar tread designs.
I'm using 4 AA batteries for power - is that enough?
any suggestions?

Hi Supercres,

4 AA batteries have round about 6v. That is far too less for this rover. I drive this with a 3S lipo, what means it has fully charged 12,6v.
I would recommend using 3S for this. My other rover (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2952852) can be driven with 2S. This has other motors. But for this you would have to reprint almost all parts

FPV-Rover V2.0 (Tank)

I want to use arduino to control it and add some sensors just like HC-SR04 TCS230! So could you post the STP files that i can edit it?
you post tinkercad files,but it seem like that couldnt be save as step files,I`m a Mechanical Engineer so that i can only use software just like
solidworks or Pro-e at work. thank you so much.

You should put this on instructables.

I did it with the FPV-Rover V2.0

And here the link on Thingiverse

FPV-Rover V2.0 (Tank)

So far I am having a great time printing and assembling the rover. I noticed that the tracks are quite tight around the wheels. Is that normal?
I used M4-40 bolts to join the tracks, that might be the reason. I can always adjust the outer diameter of the main cogs a little.

Hab den Rover schon eine Weile! Macht echt laune, nur die Plastikgetriebe halten nicht ewig durch.
Wärs möglich Motoren mit Metallgetriebe einzuplanen?



ein neuer Rover ist schon fertig gezeichnet und das meiste auch schon gedruckt. Der neue wird mit 540er Motoren betrieben.
Diese werden mit einem gedruckten Zahnrad mit dem Antriebsrad verwendet. Ich hab dafür Nylon genommen.

Da ich in letzter Zeit nicht so viel Zeit hatte, hab ich das ganze noch nicht getestet. Beim Zusammenbau will ich auch Bilder machen, sodass der Aufbau leichter geht, als beim ersten. Ich hoffe, dass ich ihn um Weihnachten rum fertig stellen kann und alles hochladen kann.

Die Zahnräder sind beim aktuellen leider das schwächste Glied, sodass ich hier etwas anderes geplant hab.

Hi will this fit in my build platform my area is 225 x 145 x 150 m

Yes, it should fit. The body is 207x50x110 and it is the biggest part

Hi also can I use a normal FrSky receiver to control this rather then the brain that you used is that possible and how would I do that

Yes you can. So do I. The brain was unfortunately never ready for use

When you make the upgrade for the 540 motors is their a way you could add a spot for a pan fpv camera to look around
Great design can’t wait to print it do you have a video of the build I have a spare uhf receiver lying around might try and use that

You can attach something like that on the top and use it. there are some holes for additional stuff.

could you make a version so i can put servos in for drive motors or 540 motors?

Hello KD9AYE,

I want to redesign some parts of the rover to use other motors. I'm not sure if I will switch to some 540 motors, because they do not fit that good to that design and to the other components.
I'm not planning to redesign the parts for servos, because they are too slow for the rover.

At the moment I'm working on a mini rover, which will be ready in some weeks. After that, I will have a look at this one

Hello Markus,

at first, great work :)

For the redesign, have you already chosen a motor type?


Hello Thiemo,

Yes I have. I decided to go with some 540 motors. But for that I had to redesign almost every part of the rover. This rover is just a minor modification of the original one.
I already started printing the new parts. As soon as everything is printed and I have received all ordered components, I will test the new rover. This might take a while.
For the new motors I had to design a bevel gear, so that they fit in the track frame. I ordered some Taulman Nylon to use it for the gear. Hope that works.

I also found some components for the IR-mode of the cam. So you don’t need the “brain” to use it

Hi Markus,

another mini rover or did you mean thing 2478547?

Sorry, I just did a wrong cut/paste to the post. I edited the wrong post this morning.

Yes, that is the Mini which is already ready.

This is what I wanted to add to the comment above:
I also found some components for the IR-mode of the cam. So you don’t need the “brain” to use it

Which way around do you print the track pieces?
For the NinjaFlex ones do you use plastic pins or Ninjaflex pins?

Track and rubbertrack should have the right direction to print.
I just glued the rubbertrack with ca-glue to the track.

All tracks are printed with PLA and only the rubbertrack with flexible filament.

The pins are printed with PLA

Thanks, I think I'm going to go for a PLA track first.

I would recommend PLA and only print the rubbertracks with flexible filament

Hey Guys, I am looking for the right LED and power supply for the Night Vision, any suggestions?

If anyone can explain to me how to mix the channels to get this to work, that would be greatly appreciated. No luck trying myself with a Turnigy 9X. Trying to find information in the mean time.


Maybe this video will help you.
It works like a v-tail plane


Hey thanks a lot! That really helped! It's not perfect. The numbers on mine were different to the video. Also reverse left and right is inverted. But forward, reverse, left, right, forward left and forward right look good. That's good enough! Thanks again!

Great that it works. Now you can add your rover to the "I made one" section :-)

This looks like a great project and I would like to try it. But I am unsure of some things and have some questions.

  1. Is it possible to source the pinions needed, from Ebay/Amazon/Banggood? Could I get away with hot-gluing instead?
  2. Is there any chance that you can explain or make a short video detailing your setup regarding your TX/RX? I'm trying to imagine how you control the rover. Is it with a TX that has two self-centring sticks? (Of which you have mapped the channels so that you have two forwards and two reverses) Or have you configured your TX channels somehow, so that you can use a TX without two self-centring sticks? (I have a Turnigy 9X, Mode 2) Maybe you've done something else?

That's all I can think of for now. Great work! Thanks for sharing!

I did not find the pinion on eBay, amazon or banggood. I bought them from a german slotcar shop. But I think they do ship worldwide.

It's not the problem that the original pinions rotate on the motor axis, they are not stiff enough.

I control the rover with my Taranis x9d plus in mode 2. Only the right stick is self-centering and that is the one I use to drive. You can mix both sides of the rover to one stick, so you control it only with one. The other stick is for the camera.

Hey thanks for getting back to me!

Now I'm just wondering how you did that, haha! Not too difficult I hope?


If you are running your Turnigy 9x with opentx/open9x, maybe this will help.
It is the config file I uploaded for a Horus user and it works with his Horus. Not sure, if it works with a Turnigy 9x too.


Thank you for the help! Sadly I don't use OpenTX/9X. I'll figure something out, haha!


Very nice, I definitely want to make one! Would you consider making the top without vents to keep dust out of the expensive electronics?

Hello Klems87

I can upload a new top without any vents, but I wouldn't recommend it. The ESCs get pretty warm and the fpv transmitter too. So without vents you keep the the temperature in the rover and you risk to lose the electronics.

Thanks for warning me about the heating risk. I was going to install an ArduRover system in mine and those are used to being enclosed. I'd rather keep the components clean and probably run a bit slower.

Hi Klems87,

I added another version of the top without vents. Just try it

Can I get a card of the connection? And what kind of brain or straight up?

You do not need the brain to run the rover. Everything (except night vision mode) works without the brain.

I also do not have a building handout. In the files there is a file called "rover_explosion" where you can see how everything fits together.
If you need special help for some parts, just contact me and I'll try to help you

Thanks. But is it possible your drawing of connection to see?

Какую плату управления использовать, если можно ссылку, спасибо

бери распери подобную связки с адруино

Don't understand you, sorry. I only speak German or English.

Would you mind sharing the step file?

I want to change the bearing sizes to use some that I have laying around at home :)

Hello vitormhenrique,

as I use the tool tinkercad for the parts, I do not have step files. I can only export them as .STL.

In the description you'll find the links to the parts so that you can edit them in tinkercad.

i have made one of these little guys, but i am confused on how to controll it, can anyone help me, it would be greatly appreciated.

I think those are a little bit too smal and too slow.
I think I'll try this one
But I have to change at least the inner-track-frame, because they are bigger.

The body doesn't need supports with the orientation it's set at?

It does need support

I'm working on an alternative "brain" that involves a Raspberry Pi 3B
https://github.com/BHEADRICK/Raspberry-Pi-Rover if anyone is interested

I am also working on this. :)

I printed out the rubber tracks with PLA, but I spray painted them with 3 coats of black flex seal rubber paint. So far..NICE!

It would be nice to have a way to fit continuous servos in this tank - I'll have to attempt to modify the track parts to put a servo down in there instead of the cheap motors referenced in this project. The author for the over this was a remix for has a new model (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1906831) which uses servos. I'm not sure which design is longer lived. Alternatively, a form of gearing mechanism coupled with standard 1/18 BLDC motors and standard RC ESCs might be a good alternative power train. I just have to find a way to fit existing gearing in there...

MR - 4 : Robotic Tank

where you can buy a motor gear ?, with transport to Netherlands ?. which can also by banggood?. if I can print them yourself?

The motor gear is from banggood and they ship worldwide. It is just linked in the description.
My recommendation is to replace at least the motor pinions, because they are very soft and don't do well.

I bought mine at slotbox.de, which is a german shop.
The shop system isn't that great, so here is how you can find them

www.slotbox.de => 1/32, 1/24 Ersatzteile => 2 mm Motorritzel M50 and here you have to search for this number: 07688502.

I don't know if they ship to the Netherlands, but I think so.

I've got these once and maybe you'll find them somewhere else: sigma 4 9z m50 nylon

I have buy this today in CHINA ... i hope is good, They ship everywere in the world ( I live in USA)


I edit this post when i have the gear !

It usually only takes me a couple weeks to get stuff from China, (I'm also in USA) but I've been waiting over a month on my order from Banggood. Granted, the delay could have been due to ordering in December...

http://www.robotshop.com/ and https://hobbyking.com/ probably have the same stuff for a little more for those who don't like waiting.
Amazon has a lot of the parts as well.

It is easy to buy these things in CHINA. I live in China. :)

Was für ein Regler muss man nehmen wenn man auf 3s fahren möchte und gibt es auch passende Motoren bei banggood?

What kind of regulator do you have to take if you want to drive on 3s and are there also suitable motors at banggood?

Ich hab die verlinkten Regler und fahre mit 3S. Hatte bisher keine Probleme.
Tuningmotoren hab ich bei Banggood noch keine gefunden, daher hab ich die Slotdevil genommen. Die originalen im gelben Getriebe sollten aber auch reichen. Du solltest aber zumindest das Ritzel tauschen, da das originale sehr weich ist und nach ein paar Runden verschlissen ist.

Vielen Dank für die Antwort!

Da werde ich den Guten mit 3s fahren so wie in der Teileliste beschrieben ;-)

Kannst du mir noch eine Empfehlung geben was die besseren Ritzel angeht?

Ich hab meine von Umpfis Slotbox. Leider ist der Shop etwas Suboptimal aufgebaut, sodass man nicht direkt danach suchen kann.

www.slotbox.de => 1/32, 1/24 Ersatzteile => 2 mm Motorritzel M50 => und nach dieser Nummer suchen: 07688502

Oder irgendwo im Web folgende suchen: sigma 4 9z m50

ok vielen Dank!

da wird es dann bald einen mehr geben ;-)

I think it's important to be said that the screws must be with conic head, the usual flat heads wont let the pieces to fit afterwards because the head with stand out making impossible for the big pieces to join, and thus be completed.
Had to redesign some smaller pieces to hide the head, but to not reprint the body it was cheaper to go and buy new screws.

Would there be space to use nema17 stepper motors to drive the tracks instead?

Hi slayerak23,

nema17 do not fit. To have the shaft fitting in the main cog, you have to redesign the track frame. It has to be a little bit longer. You have to redesign the inner_track_frame, outer_track_frame and track_outer_cover.


I really have a problem with fitting 32 track pieces in there. It is way to short. Is there a trick i need to know?

try to use some small pins. I used 3 small pins because the track was to tight

thanks for that info - will try that!

Again, this is excellent work and my own make is coming along. Have ordered and received the Brain pcb's from pcbgogo. Now am working on BOM for pcb. While I can easily find general components to match all the BOM, am having difficulty identifying specific components to match parts U$1, U$3 and U$4. Can you provide links to these parts online?

Also, a HD pic of the top and bottom of the brain pcb would be much appreciated. Will be soldering a lot when I get parts in and would love to have really good pic to guide me.

Hi Jayhawker,

I can't help you with the brain, because I'm not the designer. It's a friend of mine. I will inform him to give you a short feedback to your problem

Thanks Marksup.

By the way, somehow this board is signing me in as two identities - Jayhawker and rberland, both are me.



Just to let everyone know, I tried to dual extrude the tracks with ninjaflex tread printed on the PLA track. I used a Flashforge Creator Pro with dual extruders. It printed well and looked great, but had poor adhesion and peeled off with minimal effort. Back to glue!

I'm finding that my printed track conectors are too tight to fit.
When I have to make pieces that must fit perfectly together I use my white (PLA) filament, and did it again, but this time it doesn't fit.
Is it possible to make the pins of the track connectors just a little smaller, like 0.1 or 0.2 microns?
I'm using a BQ Hephestos 2.
Thank you very much!

Did you try both? There is a smaller one to. Maybe that works for you. If not, I'll create you a new set with 0.2mm smaller

Yes I swaped the pieces and they were all too tight to fit. I would really appreciate those new shorter connectors.
Thank you in advance.

I added some new pins with different diameter. Hope they fit now

Oh I'm so sorry! I didn't made myself clear! I was refering about the "Body track connectors". Since I'm only now begining printing the 64 tracks I only now understand that there's the "track connectors" by itself. But I believe that what you did now seems to be useful. The tracks themselves are a little tight too, but after a few time they get a little better "lose". When it'll be running I hope friction makes them loser with time.
Anyway, back to the begining, the body track connector pins like I've said are too wide to fit in its place. I'm placed back to back and front to front, and even swaped them and there is no fit without braking something. Those are the connectors that I needed to be thinner.
I'm sorry again for the trouble and re-thank again in advance.

I tried to make the connector a little bit smaller. I resized the parts by 0.2mm. Please try one to have a look if it fits. if not, I will resize it more


Sorry for the late reply. I was printing the tracks and it took much longer than I thought.
I've printed your last version of that connector and it didn't fit again.
I tried to edit it myself and cut it 0,2mm more to that last version and it finally fitted where they belong.
I don't understand the why of this such "big" difference. I guess nobody else had this problem.
Thank you anyway for the efford keep up the good work, this one is just awesome and I'm realy enjoying its making. Just can't wait to have it finished.

What do you guys do to separate the support parts in the main body part after printed?
To me it seems preety much stuck to the main body! :(

I printed mine out of Hatchbox PLA. It removed easily with needle nose pliers.

I was a little afraid to try that at first, but with a little efford it all came off without braking any part of the body!


Thank you for your excellent design and information. I am attempting to build this myself right now. I am printing the body right now and about to hit "order" on all of the items from banggood.

I wanted to find out which RC controller you are using to control the FPV Rover? And what requirements does the RC Controller need to meet to be compatible with the //Brain?

Also, for purposes of ordering a custom printed //Brain pcb using the github files, what are the dimensions of the pcb?

Thanks and Kind Regards.

Hello rberland,

nice to see, that the rover is liked by a lot of people.

At the moment the rover is running with a Delta 8 receiver for my Futaba T10j but I'm planning to switch to taranis. I would recommend you at least a receiver with 8 channels.

The //brain should work with every transmitter/receiver you have. It has some bonus for the rover, like current sensor, OSD, 2-way-switch for the cam, duplicate the channels with a switch... but you do not need it (only the 2-way-switch for IR)

Unfortunately the //brain isn't ready yet. It's a project of a friend of mine but it isn't finished. He designed the pcb and has some at home, but not ready for work.

Could you share some photo of the camera/LED servo uptilt mount?
Did you use a spring?

Just added a new video with the tilt-mechanism.

Hello Marksup.

I have a question for the battery. I whant to use the frame S2 2200 because is a 7v systeme, is a good deal for work why a Arduino.

My question is : what is the size of you S2 battery ? The RC battery have standard size ?

I found this on Ebay : http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-2S-7-4V-2200mAh-30C-Lipo-Battery-Pack-Deans-Plug-for-RC-Truck-Boat-Hobby-/182163145545?hash=item2a69c50349:g:qR4AAOSwQupXV4GX

The size is : 107 x 38 x 18mm

Or this : http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Traxxas-2S-7-4V-2200mAh-25C-LiPo-Battery-1-16-E-Revo-Slash-4X4-VXL-2820X-/181169160761?hash=item2a2e860239:g:4sIAAOSw7ThUijMU

the size is : 88 x 21 x 30mm

Best Regard

Hello Boulon,

I designed the 2S body for this battery

The space in the body has a dimension of 108mm x 34mm x 18mm

How long did your motors survived? I'm in the middle of building and two motors failed after 3 minutes. Both are screaming...

Are you using the tuning motors in my description? I replaced the original motors with tuning motors because they where too slow for me. And I recommend to replace at least the motor pinion because they are way to soft

Hello, can you clear the engine solution

I don't understand, you have keep the yellow gear of the first motor and juste change the motor part ?

Best Regard

I've added a new picture to the collection. There you can see the original motor with the destroyed motor pinion and the new tuning motor with the orange motor pinion.
You can swap the motors by removing the transparent stripe.

Best Regards

Thanks for the reply.
I haven't noticed the information in the description :)
I will try to modify the motors and I'll let you know. Thank You!

Hey, very cool design and thanks for sharing.
Have you tried (or have seen it) doing the tracks full in TPU?

I just printed two to see how they would turn out and looks good, my only question/concern is if the fact that
they are flexible will make them slip from the cogs.


Hey Nandox7,

I didn't try TPU. I only had PLA and Flexifil when I was printing the rover.

Hey markusp,

Thanks for the reply.
They look good and I didn't spent much time tweaking it (http://www.thingiverse.com/make:241414)
I'll give this a try and report back.

FPV-Rover (Tank)
by Nandox7

That looks really cool. Just give us a quick info when the chain is ready and works.

I go to build your tank he is fun. Have you .SKP files for sketchup ? I want to cutomise the front face.

Have you a link for you TX transmeter or the size ?

What is the size of the fan ?

Best Regard

Hello Boulon,

I'm sorry, but I do not have .SKP files. I designed and modified the parts with tinkercad and can only export them in .STL, .OBJ, .X3D and .VRML.

In the description you can find the links to the .STL files. If you need a file in a format listed here, then I can export it for you.

For video I use this transmitter

The fan for the VTX is this one

Best regards

FYI to those looking to order parts - most of the components needed for purchase are from Bangood. I ordered some of these items from Bangood which were shipped as 3 separate orders. They were delivered to Spain, Laos, and the Netherlands. I live in Canada. Canada is on the other side of the world. They took my money and gave me nothing. This is absolutely unacceptable.

Very disappointing, to say the least. Beware, just saying.

Hi great project.
What I don't understand how are the track elements joined together?

You have to screw the body, inner track, outer track and track cover with the M4 screws together. You can see it in one of the pictures

Great project!!
A while back ago, i was thinking of a mobile platform, where you could do different kind of things with.
Found it!
No need for me to design myself.
I think i'll make a quite a few addons for your thing.

Keep on Going ;)

Hi markus,
could you design the body for the 2200 mah version consisiting of 2 parts wich are seperatly printable ( like a front and a backside ),
wich you can join together with screw/bolts or glue ?
My printer is 20x20cm and 9cm high, so i can't print the body like it is.
All other parts, i think i could do on my printer.

would be greatly appreciated :D

hello bitwise,

savagebeard designed a remix of that body consisting of 4 parts. I think this should work for your printer.

You ment this one : http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1459336 ?
Already found it, thanks ..

Great project, keep on going ;)

FPV-Rover tank body split in 4

My M3D has a frustratingly small print area. How big is the biggest frame piece, and how big is the finished bot?

The biggest part is the body with 207mm. The finished rover with tracks and rubber tracks is about 230mm-235mm

How much does it weight? (just the plastic I mean) :)

Something between 840g-900g

Thinking of making something like this run on a raspberry pie, operational over the internet... Just getting a decent battery life is the problem :(

I dont see any support at that support version. How that left side of body (upper side of print) is planned to print?

Hi tapsa,

for the body you have to use support structure in your slicer. There is only a support on the bottom of the body to have a nice shape. I did not like the support from the slicers I'm using, so I added the support to have a nice surface

Looks like fun! Planning to build one myself and possibly utilize bits and pieces on other projects. Solid design!

On a side note, I followed some of your supply links. Never seen banggood before. My wallet may never recover...

Nice job! A solid machine.

Again, many thx markusp!

Great Job, and many hours of printing, but it's worth every minute!

Any guide for assembly?

There is the first timelaps video from //moe in the first post. I think he will continue with the second in a few days



First thing, good job on this one, I'm building one !

May I ask you if you can provide us the source files ? If not could you upload the body part without the camera/led thing in the front ?
I'm planning to put that in a turret ;)


Hello Pooky,

I don't use a regular cad program to design it, so i don't have any source files. I use tinkercad, which is browser-based. I can send you the link to the file so that you can change the things you want or just tell me what you want to change


This looks awesome! I use tinkercad as well... Would you be willing to share the link to your designs? I would greatly appreciate it.


Hi bbaumg,

I will add the the links to the files to tinkerkad to the description, so that you can modify everything you need


I'm making one of these! Thanks for the time and effort put into this. Is your Brain board available for sale? I looked at the github but not quite sure how to make one from that.



I´m the designer of the Brain. I´m sorry i dint plan to sell the Board but i uploadet the necessary files to Github. I will try to get elecrow to sell the PCB´s so you can buy them there. Maybe they sell complete soldered boards if all is working and Bug-free.

But the board is in a Early Alpha stadium and i will need some time to finish it and test it completely :-( Sorry for that. But if you are in Electrical stuff and know how to solder and find bugs, i would be really happy if i get some help :-D

Yeah the files should be now online on Github i had some troubles with the Github software it doesn´t want to upload my files... But now they should be online.

Thank you for the response. I'm just starting out so not sure how much help I could provide on the design and troubleshooting but will try to put one together and let you know how it goes!

Hello Westachio,

hope you enjoy the rover as much as we do. I'm not the designer of the brain, it's a friend of mine. He made a small production for us so I'm not shure if there is one left. I'll talk to him to give you a quick reply.