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WANHAO i3 Fan duct

by Thorped, published

WANHAO i3 Fan duct by Thorped Jan 5, 2016
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WANHAO i3 Fan duct by Thorped is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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64998Views 7222Downloads Found in 3D Printer Accessories

Summary

I found the original fan insufficient and it blocked the view of the hotend.
This asembly requires that you cut the M4 thread, so it goes all the way through the bearing block.
Bolt holes for the blower is tight enough in the print for the m4 screws cuts threads.
M3 screws and nuts to asemble the two parts
The fan is a standard 50x50x15mm 12v blower / radial fan

Charles Dill Made a spacer for the bearing block on the v2.1
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1650495

Print Settings

Rafts:

Doesn't Matter

Supports:

No

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Sorry, after making this cooling duct i discovered the cooling ons the open side of the duct is not sufficient. My 3D Benchy had one shiny side and one matt side. The shiny side is on the open side of the duct... Also i founded out that smaller and high peaces aren't cooled fast enough, so they flex a lot while printing. My fan (as in the part list) is always at 100% power now, and still not cooling enough.

May 17, 2017 - Modified May 17, 2017

Hey Thorped,

Is it possible to share the model (.step) of the carriage? I'm trying to create a BL Touch adapter and that would help a lot.

Thanks!

Hi,
is it possible to make a version that takes a 50x20 radial fan?
I have 50x15 lying around but i dont feel like it pushes much air!
Its a MX 12v should be 4500 rpm according to the website, but i cant verify..
Instead i bought sunon 50x20 which i hope will be much better!

What kind of improvements will I see with this fan shroud? I'm weary on changing the cooling of my printer. What's the theory on cooling? Do you want the plastic to cool as quickly as possible once it comes out of the nozzle, that way it will "set" in place where it needs to go? Thanks.

i have on my V1 and i only need 1 m3 Screw 10mm, 1 m3 screw 8mm and1m3 screw 25mm

I'm looking to install this on a V2.1. Would anyone who has successfully done this be able to provide a complete hardware list?

Comments deleted.
Feb 12, 2017 - Modified Feb 12, 2017

I see here it doesnt really come in contact with the extruder. Think the heat will melt PLA?

No. I have it on mine currently and I haven't had any issue with the heat.

Feb 9, 2017 - Modified Feb 9, 2017

Which will fit the duplicator i3 plus? Does it use the stock hardware and fan?

Doesn't look like it can use the stock fan, since this is expecting a blower fan style (more specifically needs a 24v 50mm blower fan for the Di3 Plus). Otherwise, not sure how it mounts on the Plus.

do have that model for the original carriage?

Jan 25, 2017 - Modified Jan 25, 2017

Printed this fan duct - I like it so far but seems to cool my hot end about 10c during prints
Target temp 210c, first layer fine while fan is off - then fan kicks in at 20% and cools by 10c (much more at faster speeds)
Is this due to positioning?

Just re-train your PID, no ?

STEP files or IGS etc. would be awesome for these. I'm trying to use Solidworks to "recognize features" so I can manipulate the stl file import, but it doesn't look promising.

I have the new 2.1 duplicator and this won't work since the blocks that hold the bearings are different. Bummed.

Read the comments. There's a link to a printable spacer for v2.1 printers.

Beautiful!
Thanks

This works perfect, thanks so much for sharing. I have to bump the fan down to 55%.

I made mine out of PETG and I needed the v2.1 bearing block attachment

Dec 28, 2016 - Modified Dec 28, 2016

How do we suppose to cut the M4 thread through the bearing block?

Can you also label the parts with the screw size of those bolts?

What parts + bolts do we need to buy?
Please add a parts list.

Couple of things:

You don't need to cut through anything. I know the instructions call to cut into the carriage but since that is a permanent alteration, you don't have to do it if you don't want to. You will just need a bolt that is smaller in diameter than the M4 screws that hold to the carriage and then place the nut on the front of the carriage.

You don't have to use metric machine bolts. I have a bin of random nuts and bolts and they work perfect for my projects. Besides, those M-bolts are more expensive and sometimes harder to find in the exact diameter and length. For this duct, I used a bolt that fit through the holes and trimmed the length.

bump, i would love a parts list for the screws/bolts.

I searched the comments, some say M3, others M4. and what is the best length? all one length or need different sizes?

Will a 30 or 40mm fan be powerful enough or do I have to use a blower fan?

Probably not, it's designed for a blower. So I see no point in downgrading

I have this one on my maker select and love it, wondering how difficult would be to adapt the mount to fit a D-Bot with the E3D v6 or Volcano?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1001065

D-Bot Core-XY 3D Printer

Hi Thorped
I have printed out the fan duct and cable chain mods and I am about to fit them along with new upgraded Wanhao supplied bearing blocks with Igus Drylin bearings. I have been trying to work out what x axis belt tensioner you have in your photos as I would like to upgrade mine and get rid of the tensioning spring. Looking through Thingiverse I can't seem to find the same one.
Can you help me out with a name or a link to an STL. file so I can print one off before the mod upgrades.
Thanks

Nov 15, 2016 - Modified Dec 28, 2016
Thorped - in reply to Morty1961

I use the stock belt tensioner which everyone complains about. Try to ask in the Wanhao group on facbook, maybe someone has good experiences there.

Thanks :)

Do you have a hardware list for this upgrade? Size and length.

Hi, I made a v1b hold remix with M4 threads for fan holding: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1857097

Nothing special, it's just easier to mount the fan to the holder with M4x20mm screws.

Fan duct hold with M4 thread

Hi Thorped.

Is there any chance you could make a version that is centred, and with a longer neck, to use with the E3D V6 hot end please?

I tried doing it myself but Sketchup really doesn't like the STLs and it's the only package I know :(

I am working on a model for an a8

Please keep us updated.

It'd be great if Thorped could share the CAD files.

Has anyone used this with glass plate holders (i.e. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:989523)? I finally got this installed and the front left fork catches the clips bad enough the y axis belt skips.

Wanhao duplicator i3 <=V1 - Glass bed XY corner clamp

Those I have not tried. I use ordinary small Paperclip

I printed out the original holder as well as v2 holder, but neither seem to play well with my fan. Please see the picture - the fan just doesn't fit, since the holder is not parallel to the direction of the fan intake hole. Any advice? http://imgur.com/a/TOjo7

You must trim the hole to fit the fan, it must fit into the hole and not rest on the edge. Hope this explains it

I'm curious though - is it that the part didn't print correctly (it really looks like it did), or my fan is too thick? I think most people get to mount it without modifications. I can definitely trim the hole, but I'm wondering what prevents me from using it without modifications.

It's a tight fit, and only requires a small deviation in your slicer for the print to be a little tight. Think you have to expect a little adjustment when printer someone else files.

I posted this question in the Wanhao i3 group on Facebook and, after much deliberation, it looks like my fan has a longer blower shroud (the rectangular piece where the air comes out) than regular. I just ordered a different blower fan that one of the members confirmed to work. Thanks!

I have a request if anybody is able to take it on. I have a bowden E3D v6 setup on my i3 and was wondering if someone would like to remix the mount for this blower as I used this before converting and it worked very well. I would try to design the mount my self but, I'm still learning CAD. Any help with be appreciated. The link below is the current setup that I'm using.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1483921

E3D v6 Bowden extruder for Wanhao Duplicator i3
by JonBAL

Hi I have the wanhao i3 plus would this mod still work ? thanks

Aug 28, 2016 - Modified Aug 28, 2016

Excellent Cooler! I've been using DiiiCooler but this is better for me as I need access to the nozzle. Cools enough I've lowered my fan speed to 60%, less noise as well!

Where did you get the 3d files of the printer? Would you mind sharing?

Any way to get an editable version of this? I want to remix it to work on a TEVO Tarantula.

Thanks for sharing. My Duplicator arrived yesterday and this was the second thing what i printed. Nice design, i love it. Images a bit later.

thanks for the nice words.

Hi! I made this thing and will post picture later on :-).
The Blower fan blows really hard and i presume this is right?
I mean, i see that the temp of the hotend has a harder time to keep on temp in comparison before this upgrade.
Does anyone see any problem with this, does in influance any prints that you have seen?
Or is it a "must" to have the extruded plastic to be as quick as possible being solid?
sorry, i'm just starting a bit with 3d Printing, so not sure on everyhing ;-)

This is an excellent question.

I ran into a problem yesterday with the DII cooler after first installing it. 100% fan speed on the blower style fans will actually cool the nozzle down to where it won't extrude filament! I can imagine this has a similar effect.

The easiest thing to do, is to change the max fan speed, a percentage, in your Slicer of choice. If it's simplify3D, you'll find it under the cooling tab in advanced options. You will see a "1" and a "2" with the fan speed being 0 on 1 and 100 on 2. Double click on that 100 and play with values until you find an appropriate speed. For the Dii cooler, I was honestly considering 50%. I do not know what this cooler will run best with.

In CURA, you'll find it in the expert/full settings under Advanced > Cool > Box with 3 buttons. From there you can set the min fan speed and max fan speed. My cura's default is 60%. You may have to drop this value if you're using CURA.

The direct way to do it is in the printer while printing. You can manually change the fan speed from the control unit. This may be great for testing, but honestly changing it in your Slicer is the best way to make sure you don't forget to do it.

are you still using DII cooler or this fan?

what temp are you setting for this cooler?

also is your fan on or off for layer 1 (PLA)

Does fan need to be off for ABS, PET, flexible filament and exotic filament?

Thank you so so much for you're answer.
I had a jamming fillament (literly) 2 minutes ago.
I will change the settings in my Cura, i was allready doing it manually but didn't know i could do it there.
Very nice you answered for multiple slicers because others will probable also bennifit from it cheers and thanks :-)

when your filament jammed are you using this cooler or the dii cooler?

what I remember was when i used the diy cooler. But i lowered the speed of the fan and all is running since :-)

so far i am seeing me 3 main ones used by ppl, with dii cooler might the most popular?
-dii cooler
-thorped
-cobra

which coolers have you used
and which one do you recommend and why?

i still use this one and have never used another than this modified one.
I have clear view on the nozzle and that was my main concern and its working great ever since ;-)

What is the ideal fan speed for ABS? I have the Monoprice Maker Select and it has preset 25%, 50%, 75%, 100%. Thanks

Anyone that is using this on a 2.1 could you tell me what length screw you used to mount to the bearing block?

Thanks

I used M4 30mm with the spacer to mount it on my Maker Select v2.1. I also didnt need to tap the blocks as they already were threaded all the way through.

Same here, although only the two bottom wholes were free and the two top had bolts in them from the hotend bracket. I just used on screw M4 25mm and it secured it just fine. Although with the spacer for the V2.1 it makes the duct sit back about 5mm or so from where it should be. Hope this doesnt affect the cooling.

Comments deleted.

Here's a spacer I made to adapt your fan holder to a Di3 v2.1 bearing block.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1650495

Di3 v2.1 Spacer for Thorped's Fan Duct

good job. I've put a link on the fan duct page.

Thorped

So I have the 2.1, got the spacer. It installed fine. Issue is that the spacer seems to push the fan bracket backwards a bit, so it doesn't surround the nozzle as pictured. Seems a little bit higher as well. Still seems to work, but not quite as well as intended I imagine.

I agree, I see the same thing on my Maker Select with the spacer.

can't manage to fit m4 screws through the back of the blocks. they just get stuck

Very neat design, love that it is on the rear, because yes, the fan blocks the view and THAT view is important to be able to see. Great work!!

For my Afinia (supporting the prints of the WanHao/makerselect) it took a bit of special cutting to make it work, but it can work.

I would like to design a remix of your fan duct and the CAD models of your X-Axis assembly would be really helpful for that and many other upgrade I have in mind for my WDi3. Can you upload your models please?

Thank you.

The demand is big so I'd better meet it. But i have only drawn parts of the printer and not the entire machine. It will probably take a few days before I have the time and opportunity to get it done.

Any chance we can get an upgraded bracket for v2.1? I made an attempt, my first experience with 3D design, and failed. :)

brilliant. My first print was awesome with this. If i was to do it again i might design some sort or rawl plug and use with an M3 so the bearing block doesnt need to be tapped. Many thanks for sharing.

Is there a way to mount this fan shroud without tapping a hole through the bearing?

sure, use zipties, I used them without the need of use any bolt, driller or whatsoever

Comments deleted.

Anyone have suggested PLA print settings for this?

Layer 0,2, Flor and roof 0,8-1,2mm.No suport. Raft is up to you. the rest is depending on your printer trim

Can you upload CAD file ?

Do you guys run this @ 100% speed all the time?

I run it at 50% for PLA
0% for PETG

looks like there's 3 different versions of the holder, which one do we print?

Apr 14, 2016 - Modified Apr 14, 2016
Thorped - in reply to shaiss

I would recommend the fil that is updated 01-17-16 v1b

What length screws do you need in the m3 and m4?

Where should I buy this 50mm fan? It isn't the stock fan right? Gettting my printer today in the mail.

You need a 50x15mm radial blower, it should be easy to find in a local 3D printer shop. It is this kind of blower:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brushless-DC-Cooling-Cooler-Blower-Fan-2-Wires-5015S-12V-0-06A-50x15mm-NEW-/400686050550?hash=item5d4abfecf6:g:KI0AAOSwo3pWc573

Do I need a thread tool for this or can I make new threads with a m4 screw?

For the bearing blocks you need a threading tool.

Mar 15, 2016 - Modified Mar 15, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Thorped

You mean a tap? An M4 tap? What if I print a new bearing block, do I still need the tap? I was planning on printing a new one with the cutaway so the belt doesn't rub.

M4 tap yes

Mar 15, 2016 - Modified Mar 15, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to Thorped

Do I need the tap if I am printing a new bearing block?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1172838

Bearing blocks for standard 8mm linear bearings (Wanhao duplicator i3).

I have installed 2 of these bearing blocks and can confirm this cooler fits perfectly: I could drive the screws straight onto the bearing blocks. Thanks Thorped, cool design

I was able to screw directly into those printed bearing blocks.

To me it looks like the threading is all the way through in those. I'm going to try and report back.

Comments deleted.
Mar 7, 2016 - Modified Mar 7, 2016
stefanli - in reply to Thorped

Thanks then I'll pick one up today.

Great design. Thanks!!

How do you print the main part with a single extruder printer? It's a hollow part with huge overhangs. Any tips?

Yeah, it's not at all difficult. I printed it without a fan and it was fine

This is a very simple print, there is no extreme overhang.
There are channels that help the overhangs when printing and guides the air on the finished funnel

Really like the design of the duct itself, but is there any easy way you can flip how the fan mounts? Maybe I bought the wrong one but with the blower mounted the inlet faces the extruder, would like for the inlet to face the back of the machine. Thanks!

Sounds like you've installed it correctly,
inlet should face the extruder, but it gets lots of air.
At the same time it is protected.

Hi Thorped, nice work fan duct works nice. Any change to share the complete carriage unit as an .stl file? So I can go from there as a base for an electronic Unlevel Bed Compensation shroud?

Thanks in advance.

Paco

Jan 17, 2016 - Modified Jan 17, 2016
CJR

Hello again Could you make a minor change to the v1 duct holder to clear the belt fixing screw. I guess v2 has only 1 fixing screw for the fan?
Thank you - John UK

Consider it done: v1b

v1b works fine, just finished printing. Thank you.

Nice design, great job and I agree with you, with the air duct at the rear you can see the hot end. Prints very nice ordered the fan from ebay Thanks

Could you add some pictures of how to actually install it?

Not sure what you mean with 'This asembly requires that you cut the M4 thread'

It's just that the m4 thread does not go all the way through the bearing blocks. you have to separate the extruder holder to cut the threads all the way through the bearing block. Then you can mount the fan holder on the back of the bearing block.

Hey Thorped. I think you should make that a little clearer in the description that that is necessary. The word is "tap" the threads. It's not really clear in your description if youre talking about a bearing block and what you mean by cut. Also a hardware list would be nice.

Thanks :)

it was super easy to print.
unfortunately i get nearly no airflow from the front.
you should change the shape of the air outlet a little bit, so it's a BIT more closed in the front

Ok. I will make a version with a narrower opening and perhaps a bit closer too the nozzle.

Awesome ;)

GOing to print one soon,

I LOVE the way it looks in my slicer, looks a simple print.

great work.

Printed and using it now, first impressions are superb!
many thanks

Looks interesting.
I'm printing it right now and will report how it performs.

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