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The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

by Toranado3D, published

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1 by Toranado3D Jan 5, 2016

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Summary

Update 3/31/2017 - Side Mount Build Instructions are now released (these show the new NEMA-14 gasket for heat isolation). I still need to update the standard build instructions with views showing this gasket.


Hardware Kits - v2.1 Toranado Kits

Hardware Kits are not available at this time.


Why the Toranado?


Available Toranado Versions - Files and Build Instructions

Rear Mount Precision-Geared Versions

Side-Mount Precision-Geared Versions

Legacy Versions

Original Rear-Mount Build Instructions

Side-Mount Build Instructions


E-Z Hotend Removal - Instructional Video


Thingiverse Community Involvement - The Toranado is well supported by the Thingiverse Community and MAKERS have added the following THINGS to support the Toranado:

TORANADO X-CARRIAGE MOUNTS

Also compatible with i3 Rework and typical 23x23mm x-carriage hole patterns.

BED-LEVELING SENSOR MOUNTS

ACCESSORIES


How I Designed This

I met a guy named Big Cooter, and he pushed me over a cliff.

Technical Data

Fine Tuning Your Extruder

Setting the Extruder Steps Per Millimeter:

e_steps_per_mm calculation


Ultibot 1.75mm Drive Gear

Several Makers have tried to use Drive gears other than the one I spec'd from Ultibot. Unless you can find a drive gear that has the same effective diameter, I do not recommend using it - as the tangent point on the bearing will not apply force in the proper area on the drive gear. It is essential your bearing align well to the drive gear. I am currently looking for ways to include proper drive gears in future kits.


The NEMA-14 Stepper Motor

The motor I have spec'd is rated at 500mA, and even at the rated voltage NEMA14's run hot - be sure not to exceed the rated voltage. Also, You MUST follow Item #9 of the Build Instructions as well - isolating the motor heat from the extruder mount is critical.


How to set the NEMA-14 properly For the popular RAMPS 1.4 setups:

DRV8825 1/32 stepper - you should take a DC voltage measurement exactly like this. To properly set the motor current, you should adjust your potentiometer to get the reference voltage as close to 0.25V as possible. 0.25V = 500mA (0.5A) to the motor. (Any VREF measurement between 0.24-0.26 should work fine). Formula: Measured VREF x 2 = Motor Current

Pololou A4988 Driver - measure to voltage exactly like this. If you are using drivers from Pololou - to properly set the motor current, you should adjust your potentiometer to get the reference voltage as close to 0.2V as possible. 0.2V = 500mA to the motor. (Any setting between 0.19-0.21 should work fine). Formula: Measured VREF x 2.5 = Motor Current.

NOTE: If you are using certain Chinese clones of the A4988 Driver, the formula is different. See This Post about adjusting your voltage setting on the stepper driver, depending on the type of A4988 that you have.

NEMA-14 WIRING to RAMPS1.4 w Ardino Mega 2560


.STL File Print Settings for a 0.4mm Nozzle

Recommended Print Settings

  • 2.1-30mmfanmount.stl: 4 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 25% infill
  • 2.1-LH-decorationcover.stl: 4 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-LH-extruderbase.stl: 3 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 50% infill
  • 2.1-idler-wpad.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 80% infill - Remove Print Pads After Printing
  • 2.1-idlerholder.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 25% infill
  • 2.1-idlertensioner.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 80% infill
  • 2.1-30mmvent-wpad.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 25% infill - Remove Print Pads After Printing
  • 2.1-LH-gearprotector.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-40mmfanduct.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-LH-lowercover-wpad.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill - Use same settings for BLTouch Version, Remove Print Pads After Printing
  • 2.1-LH-decoration-spacer-.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-LH-conncover-base.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-LH-smallgearcover.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-conncover-hotend.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-LH-bearingholder.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 80% infill - PET-G Material Recommended if possible
  • 2.1-washer-M5.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.2mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-gearcover.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill
  • 2.1-30mmfancover-lownoise.stl: 2 Perimeters, 0.15mm layers, 21% infill

What You Will Need to Build

Complete Toranado Bill of Material - (Needs updating as of 3/25/17)

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Out of curiosity, what is the benefit of the side mounted vs the end mounted designs? or is it just persona preference?

While I'm no engineer, I picked the side mount because I feel the closer the unit's center of gravity is to the X rails, the better. This should provide more stability at higher speeds, because the mass is not cantilevered out like the end mounted units. Plus . . . . I think the profile of the side mounted design just looks cooler!

Wow this is amazing, a great alternative to Titan Aero. Anyone tried to mount it on a Hypercube Evo?

Thanks!

Hi, when will be available the next batch of gear? you choose a very strange gear so no way to found around.....

anyone else having feeding issues? i have used the explicitly specified drive gear from ultibot but my toranado is just not feeding properly...

Jul 31, 2017 - Modified Aug 10, 2017
Augermeister - in reply to KautschuK

I just got mine put together today and noticed the same thing during test prints. I've tightened up the two screws on the latch that holds the bearing holder a bit at a time, until I minimized the slipping. Still working on it.
Did you get hard springs or soft with your kit? Mine are like those from a ball point pen and may be too soft to hold proper pressure.

EDIT - It's probably the idler holder and bearing holder causing the problems for me; as noted in printing details, I should print out the bearing holder with PETG. I also only used 20% infill for the idler holder, which should be fine in PLA if I use 100% infill. These two items have enough "give" so-as to not apply enough pressure on the idler bearing, thus allowing the filament to slip and skip.

Trying to find an x-carriage for the side mount version. I have a p3steel. Am i missing it somewhere?

Only difference in front and side mounts for the carriage is that the side-mount version mounts higher on the carriage. If you use one that is designed for front-mount you will be disappointed. I personally use one of the variants of this:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704855

Make sure you get one with correct hole spacing, rod spacing, and provides extruder clearance.

BTW- for side-mount I do not recommend the first one listed on the main page. You will not be able to mount the side-mount version correctly because of how high it sits compared to the OG version. The only option with that one is to flip it 180... but then the Toranado is listing to starboard because it is mounted soooo low on the carriage. GL !!!

Zip-tie free Prusa i3 X-Carriage

Finally putting my kit together, and realized you didn't send me the springs... any recommendations on how strong the springs should be?... sadly I seem to have wayyy to weak springs, or wayyy to strong ones....

i got the f***ing strongest springs the universe has ever seen. couldn't compress them if my live depended on it. so you didn't miss out on those - i had to get them from somewhere else anyways...

progrock - I got the kit and the springs are similar size and strength to what you'd find in a ball point pen, just maybe a little larger diameter. Hope that helps!

Is there any way to be notified when you have more kits?

cdeerinck - it sounded like wouldn't be available again until later this summer. I think you can setup a notification for this seller in ebay, so you'll get a message when they're for sale again.

Augermeister - I cannot for the life of me figure out where in eBay to set up a notification. I did subscribe to the seller, but I don't usually check eBay often. I guess I just keep checking when I remember to.

So no way to make it without you making the kits. Dang that sucks. But gotta respect what you doing

You can make these without the fastener kits if you source all the pieces yourself, but I don't know how to do it without the gear kit.... Some folks have tried printing gears, but not sure how that would work out.

Really sorry to see hardware kits are no longer available; I hope that's only temporary. Will you be fulfilling the ebay orders already placed, or providing refunds?

All of the e-bay orders are being shipped tonight and then in the next couple of days... My plan is to spend the next several weeks getting organized, and offering more kits later this summer.

I am taking the next couple of weeks to work with some young kids at a camp in Ohio, and between that and work my time is limited until August.

Thanks for the update. Sounds like you are spending your time helping others, so gotta respect that! Very happy to hear you'll be helping others on Thingiverse too, by continuing to offer your kits in the future. I sourced my own hardware for the v1 I built and it was a nightmare! Your kits are the only way to go.

Have a great summer!

I love the extruder. Is there any way that you can do hardware kits for spare hotends

My mks gen 1.2 board fried when switching on hotend heater after installing the toranado. Im sure the right connections are made becouse hotend fan and thermistor worked as expected. Plus/minus shouldn't matter on heater right? I can't see any other change made exept maybe swtching heater cables. Luckely i have a ramps board laying around to reinstall but i want to make sure it doesnt happen again

If the heater uses more power than the original one, it is not unusual for a board to fry as it is delivering more power to the heater than it was designed for, thus fails. When replacing heaters you need to know the wattage of the original one and the wattage of the new one. Going to a less powerful one is no problem, to go to a more powerful one can lead to frieing the board.

Thanks for reply, It's the same heater on the same hotend. The only change is I rewired it to the JST connectors on the toranado. Everything went fine at first. Powered up, checked temp readings wich where consistent with bed temperature, the fan on the hotend worked ok. So I thought I couldn't have connected the heater to the wrong jst connector in the toranado (if that makes sense). I then set my extruder temp to 100 degrees C and all fans died for a half a second. Then there was a big cloud of smoke and flames streaking my board =( . That's why I think it had to do with the extruder heater, but I guess it could have been anything with power regulation coming to think of it, as there seems to have been a big power surge when heater activated. Checked the board more thoroughly this morning and it seems to originate from something between the heated bed screw terminal and the power input terminal. What struck me as odd is the cable and screw terminal to the heater seems fine, so there must have been some other component that burned, hard to say as it is all melted and full of sooth.

There shouldn't have been a problem if you use the same heater. Could be just about anything. It sounds like a short on the heater wires if it happened the moment you applied power to it and you lost power to everything else as well. The moment the component to the heater burned out on the board, you got power back for everything else.

Good luck with fixing it.

do i have to use a NEMA-14 Stepper Motor? can i just use the one that came with my anet a8?

You do have to use the Nema 14. It is smaller and the Nema 17 will not fit.
On a plus side, the Nema 14 is only about $15 in the US and the Nema 17 can be a spare for any X, Y or Z motor you may need in the future.

Sadly, due to shipping costs to Canary Islands, I don't think I can afford to buy your gears :(. However I have been checking RC Car spur gears as feasible alternatives and I think they might be up to the task. Whats your opinion on this?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Metal-48P-Spur-Pully-Gear-92T-for-SAKURA-D4-AWD-RWD-1-10-Drift-Racing-Car/32508012289.html
https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Env-o-Gratis-2-unids-3-RACING-engranaje-recto-48-pitch-92-T-para-SAKURA-CS/937664_32669906586.html
https://es.aliexpress.com/store/product/Aluminum-Spur-Gear-Mount-Cover-Adapter-for-1-10-3Racing-SAKURA-D3-D4-CS-Sport/335759_32615914822.html

What's your opinion on plastic gears? They are 3 times lighter (15-5gr, is not much really anyway) and they might wear less with time.
I might combine them with a 21T or 17T 48P gear for the motor but they won't give the gear ratio of the original model anyway :( [4.38, 5.41, 6.71 respectively].

On another note, I have a slim nema14 with 3 times less holding torque. Do you think its enough or should I get a bigger motor?

Which stepper is preferred? Thin version Nema 14 or regular thicker Nema 14 stepper?

I used the regular thicker Nema 14. I am pretty sure that the thinner one would leave quite a gap and not look as pleasant.

Awesome thanks for the reply!

I'm absolutely in love with this thing and waiting for the dual extrusion version like a mad man!

I'm hoping you're close to completion.

I have a original e3dv6 hotend right now, but planning on making a multiple hotend parts to quick swap between. Ordered two e3dv6 clones from china. But realised later those where for directdrive and not bowden setups. I don't know how they actually look in the top. Anyone have that, and will it be possible to maybe print a converter and pressfit or similar into the top of the hotend to mount the tube into?

In my experience, the clones you describe work just fine for rigid filament. It's the flexible filaments that need the added constraint. Maybe set your original up for that...

Thanks for reply, sounds good.

Cant seem to get any answers by maker anymore. :(

He replies. It just takes a while. Took 2-3 weeks to get a reply to something I asked.

Where can I get that 94T gear ? Saw one on ebay but the shipping cost to Central Europe is too damn high

Do you happen to have any update on the dual extruder from a few months back?

i have a question if i wanted to use an inductive proximity switch insted of touch switch how can o modify the design ?

Sorry admin, I have personal experience with some of these questions so I thought I'd chime in...

Don't modify anything. Just print correct sided BL touch lower cover with the cradle on the correct side, pick and print your "Bed Leveling Sensor Mount" (in the Details section). I used the 18mm mount and it fits into the BL Touch cradle perfectly. Just remember that you need the "BLtouch-cover" to cap it properly and the right sized screws. All the mods have been completed already.

Does the side mount version of the TPGE work with the prusa i3 x-carriage mount that you uploaded or does it require a different mount?

May 29, 2017 - Modified May 30, 2017
chillysmokes - in reply to jdtough98

I am using it now. TPGE will mount to any carriage that has NEMA 17 holes. EDIT That's wrong, TPGE uses 23mm... either way it works.
I recommend using a carriage that has its mounting high if you can afford the length on your screws (top mounted z-motors and short screws over here). The only drawback to this carriage is the 3 screw design. I like it. The uploaded one is very good for LM8UU bearings as it uses clamping compression and the metal wont compress on the rod. IGUS not working great atm, though. I'm moving to this one...
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:704855

EDIT Just installed the new carriage and I had to modify it to 23mm mounting but otherwise it works like a dream.

Zip-tie free Prusa i3 X-Carriage
May 19, 2017 - Modified May 20, 2017

Hi, Gentlemen, I would like to buy the v2.1 Combo Kit +, but unfortunately its stock is exhausted. And if I buy it separately the two available kits charge me two shipments. Could you sell me the complete kit (The v2.1 Combo Kit +) in a single package for a single shipment? Thank you!

I second this. Any idea when you will be back in stock? This is my next major upgrade planned for my i3 clone. Already started printing the parts. Thank you!

Yes.. people have been ordering the two separate kits and I have been refunding the extra shipping paid - I'm getting caught up this weekend and will refresh the kits based on available stock.

I have all the parts printed for the v2.1 and am upgrading from v1. I ordered the fastener kit on ebay over a week ago and it still hasn't shipped. Any idea when you might be able to send it?
Thanks!

Any chance of a 3mm version?

I didn't bother with the fan cover - on that fan the blades are pretty short, not sure a cover would offer any benefit with that small a gap between motor and frame

Yeah, best I can tell, its just an oversight. It looks like there didn't used to be a fan cover, and that's kind of a new feature. So I think the screw lengths are just wrong / for without a fan cover. They literally reach to the back of the fan with the cover on, so another 1/8" would give you 1/8" bite into the plastic.

It is an oversight - I am going to modify the grille soon.

I'm building the sidemount version and I'm up to putting the 40x40x15mm fan on, and the fan bolts on fine without the fan cover. With the fan cover the screws are just too short... I've measured the thickness of the fan cover, the thickness of the fan, and length of screws, and it seems as though the screws should have been 1/8" longer. Did anyone else run into this?

hello every one thank you to make this very nice extruder !!! can use it for flexible filament ? thank you

Yes I print flexible with it. I just lengthened the ptfe tube from the hot end to go as close as i could make it to mk7 gear and it works fine.

GREAT I WILL PRINT TIS AWESOME EXTRUDER !!! THANK YOU

Hi awsome team!

Alright, I am going too try to break my problem down here. I have heat issues and i got the 1.0version.
Exactly what do i need too buy for a Version 2.1? Seems unnecessary for me to get yet another postage cost from USA.

Question 2. Is there any way of getting a version without the JST connection and like ONLY get better cooling couse thats the only issue i got on this beuty!

The kits from 1.0 to 2.1 have changed significantly.... please private message me your info, I will arrange to get you an updated fastener kit (your 1.0 gear will still work fine).

Awsome,I have sent a message! :)

I am just completing my build. Can anyone give me an idea of how the filament is supposed to go from the drive wheel to the end of the tube that feeds the V6. I extended the Bowden tube all the way up to the drive gear (opposite of the incoming feed tube). The tube just flops around (ok it's stiff but you get the idea) with no support. I could cut it near the top of the V6, but then there is no support for flexible filament from the drive gear to the top of the V6. Also, then how do you change the filament without taking things apart. Maybe I'm missing something in the assembly. Any help would be appreciated.

make the PTFE tube as high as possible and try to get it to make the bit between the MK7 great and the bearing. Doesn't make a lot of difference when printing stiff materials like ABS and PLA but helps a lot when printing flexible.

I made my cutom 2.1-canncover-hotend with additional, tappered filament guide (inspired with E3D titan extruder guide). Unfortunatelly it was not properly designed so idler didn't put enough pressure on filament. Now it's OK after some knife cuts ;D. When it will be redesigned and ready to publish, I'll upload and share it with you.
BR
Tom

I cut mine at an angle that compliments the shape of the gear (about 45 degrees) as close to the gear as I can without it rubbing. This can also be done from the top feed tube as well.

This extruder is over $100, not even including the e3dv6, if you got a genuine one. One simple question, is it "worth it"? Is it that much nicer/better than a bowden setup? I'm seriously contemplating making this, and wanting to justify the cost.

I have been using this extruder from the word go... (actually a little before go) and I have to say in my opinion it is the most accurate, trouble free extruder I have ever had the pleasure of working with. I find it to be extremely reliable and easy to maintain. I cannot compare it to a bowden setup, as I have never used one but then again I haven't had a reason too. :) Yeah it costs more than a conventional setup but I think in terms of the results it produces it is well worth it.

this is an amazing piece of machinery it should work on the prusa clones? ie anet a8, tronxy p102 or 105 or what ever the number is lol ( almost identical to the a8) just some frame differences! last but not least on the rasecube r2, also identical to the a8 except frame lol

I just got a message that A8 has 46mm rod spacing on the mounting carriage and a diffrent mounting pattern. I'll try to make a x-carriage for it, but man would it be nice if someone in the community could take it on.

I've got it done Wes - It's up and running on my Anet right now. Where should I send the file?

Go ahead and post it as a THING, and I will link to it.

ANET 8mm X Carriage Mount with 46mm Spacing

hey, did you use the motor from the A8 on this?

The A8 motor is nema 17. This calls for a nema 14 motor. Also, the stock settings for the extruder are 750ma, and the nema 14 requires 500ma. You can replace the SMT resistor on the original board with a potentiometer (10k) if you're feeling adventurous to adjust the output.

I also have a configuration.h file with the proper offsets for the ANET A8 to support auto bed leveling. I'll get you guys a link later this evening.

i would like a copy.

I've got mine together, but the JST connections seem to be a real problem. First the hot end bracket clips for JST plugs keep breaking. I've made like 4 of these parts and it has happened in every one. (I even did one with 100% infill). Without those stabilizers, I can't get the JST plugs to mate successfully. Everything is printed in PLA. Part of the reason I'm doing this new setup is to get a hotend installed that will stay hot enough for ABS and other materials. I'm getting close to just hard wiring it together and then seeing if I can get an ABS print. Any other ideas?

Which part is breaking exactly? I have not had issues w my JST connectors at all, but I need to understand what you mean. I'll send you a msg and have you e-mail me some photos.

Thanks for the help and ideas you sent via email. I've got it working and seem to have discovered the culprit. One of the 3 JST connectors in the parts set was a little out-of-spec in the width at the rear of this connector. This made an extremely tight fit which was what was popping the fragile "teeth" that hold the connectors in place in the right position. On my reprinted piece I still "popped" one of the teeth, but got two two connectors installed with one tooth in place. I was then able to wedge a little piece into the space of the missing tooth to hold it upright. (As it turns out, one of the little pieces of the support you cut out of the base was perfect for this). Rather than try to old it together while tightening those ***** tiny tapping screws, I glued the whole thing together with a hot glue gun and everything is fine.

What options are there for mounting to a Geeetech i3 Pro B?

Anyone want to buy my tornado extruder? Printed it out a few weeks ago and assembled it with everything, even the hotend and stepper. PM me if your in the USA and want it.

have you sold this item yet?

Apr 15, 2017 - Modified Apr 15, 2017

I am done building the Toranado V2.1, but sadly I am having some mayjor problems with calculating the correct DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT.
My hardware: Ramps 1.4 with A4988 clones (1/16), a Nema 14 with 200 steps per rotation and the gear set you guys are selling on ebay, along with a MK7 extruder gear (effective diameter 10.3mm).

So my formular looks like this: (200x16)x((94/19)/(10,3x3.14)) = 489,5
But I decided to measure if the extruder really took in as much filament as it should, by putting a mark on to the filament 150mm above the spot where it vanishes in to the toranado and using my external controlls to let the extruder extrude 100mm of filament.
But measuring up to the mark I have made has shown, that the extruder was only sending 89,8mm in to the nozzle instead of 100mm.

I have checked if the ballbearing was putting enough preasure against the string. It was.
I have checked if the nozzle was clean. It was.
I have had the nozzle at 200°C, so there was no chance that the nozzle was too cold and 'keept back' some of the filament.

So after a while I was thinking "So when I ask my printer to extrude 100mm of filament and it only extrudes 89,8mm, than it did only 89,8% of the job. Meaning, that the value 489 is only 89,8% as well. Therefore, 100% is equal to 545 steps per unit."
And what can I say, 545 did the trick and only off by a hair.

So that brings up the question: Where did I mess up in the first place?

You may have a lot of trouble with that MK7 effective dia being different than the drive gear I spec'd. Most everyon who has tried that has issues with getting enough spring force on the filament because the bearing won't align properly to it.

Apr 20, 2017 - Modified Apr 20, 2017
Grevan - in reply to Toranado3D

The pressure the springloaded ball bearing is putting on to the filament is good enough to make it hard to pull out the filament by hand if I want to. So that is definitly not the issue.
I spent about 2 to 3 hours the other day, extruding 100mm of filment in two steps of 50mm (to compensate for possible pullup difficulties), meassuring how much filament has exactly been extruded and letting the RepRap calculator for the steps_per_unit do the math. I did so until I reached a 99.6% of accuracy. 100% is simply not possible with the limitations of my meassuring tools and the filament I have got.
But the result is a steps_per_unit value of 539.0634 and that is way off of what the formular of yours gave out. So in the end I guess there is just no short cut or easy math. You still have to do the calibration by hand.

And yes, I did tripple check if I have put the right number of teeth, the correct diameter of my MK7 and the right steps per revolution of the Nema 14 in to the formular. ^^

Print in pla of abs?

I printed mine in PLA. The bearing holder I am going to print in PETG.

I print mine in ABS but if you purchase the parts they are printed in PLA, so I think it is what ever you want. But there is one part which does specify petg

Hi, i finally use my toranado..... great extruder but the cooling system is not enough while printing tower.. any chance to fix it with a better fan duct?

Apr 8, 2017 - Modified Apr 8, 2017

Wes, question about the gasket. Does the gasket help lessen print artifacts cased by vibration? That is did you play around and notice any significant different in print quality with the gasket on the motor as compared to no gasket. (Realize you did this for thermal properties.)

St. George
Thanks

I am assembling my extruder using the bearings and fasteners kit that I ordered off of EBay. When I get to the step to mount the stepper in the assembly instructions, it shows using 6 PTFE washers and 6 Blind Rivet washers in a sandwich configuration to provide thermal isolation from the motor for the plastic. Unfortunately, the kit only provides 3 of each. Have you found the other three are unnecessary and the instructions need to be updated or are the kits incomplete in this regard?

Yes, I need to update the build instructions for the rear-mount. Refer to the build instructions for the side mount - that would be current. Yes, the gasket replaces those other PTFE sandwich parts. I am sorry about the confusion!

Apr 7, 2017 - Modified Apr 7, 2017
Spidematt - in reply to Polymerman

I think the new kit comes with a gasket for the steppermotor. Also can get extras at local parts store

Yes, I found it. That would mean gasket on the stepper side and the PTFE/Blind rivet washer sandwich on the other side. Thank you for the clarification.

Can you use a 40x40x20mm fan in place of the 4015? it will make sourcing 24 volt parts a little simpler

It won't fit on the rear-mount on a standard x-carriage mount. It may work on the side mount, I am not sure.

I found that i only needed to print 2.1-FM-lowercover.stl, 2.1-FM-rearmount1.stl , 2.1-FM-40mmfancover.stl and 2.1-FM-rearmount2.stl for the side mount version when compared to my regular version of the Toranado.

Ok, the removable hotend assembly does not need to be reprinted for the flush mount version. Are there any other parts that do not need to be reprinted?

The 94T aluminum gear cover, M5 washer and entire hotend sub-assembly are identical.

Side-Mount vs. Left-Hand-Mount...

It seems to me, the LH-Mount is less wide but higher than the S-Mount.

Can anybody provide me with the dimensions of both versions (Both with BLTouch-Option).
I am unsure which one fits better to my setup...

Thanks,

I will do that soon. The width on the back of the side-mount is for housing the m3 nuts that hold it to the x-carriage. With the side-mount, the nozzle is MUCH closer to the rails, and I designed it to work with i3 setups where you cannot adjust the y-bed (like Orballo's P3 Steel.

This looks really good. Are you going to release the CAD models for 2.1. It makes it a lot easier to create mounts for this.

Also the mount that you have depicted on in the picture of the side mount version. Are you going to release that along with the CAD files and the STL's so we can use this? The main reason for the cad files is to get the x axis mesurements so I know how much additional length on both sides my X Axis is going to be.

I am going to be rebuilding my printer and would like to know how much additional length I am going to need to allow the X Axis to reach from side to side of my bed.

Thanks
Gordon

Yes, I need to release the latest package models for those who want to create their own mounts... will try to get to this to help the community.

Thanks that would be great. Also the mount that you have used in the renderings of the side mount.

Also I have printed all of the original 2.1 version. Could you also list what STL are different between the 5 versions or the very least between the LH and the FM versions.

Thanks.

Many thanks for this new version, you’re the boss !

I take it the kits haven't been released yet? Is there a realistic time when we can expect these?

Sorry for the delay, they are up

When are the other kits coming? It says 2/20, but that was a couple weeks ago.

What is total weight of fully constructed extruder?
I have now http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1323225 2-in-1 UltraCompact HICtop Bowden Mount
and my noise vs the original setup(i got prusa i3 copy, hictop 3dp12) where extruder motor sits on X-carriage too has gone down a lot.
Also I noticed that my printer does not shake so lot since there is not lot weight on X-axis to shake it.

Can someone give me pros and cons for this item?
Keeping in mind that I have now that carriage mentioned above with E3D V6 hotend and bowden extruder.

How much "accurate" this is vs my setup atm?

Im just very curious

2-in-1 UltraCompact HICtop Bowden Mount
by MMendel

so the gear kit what is on ebay, must be bought to build this? you cannot print all parts?

anyone who has links to gears, please post here. atm I cannot afford to buy the metal ones

PETG printed gears for the Toranado v2.1

You can print them some people have links but it's worth it to buy gears.

thing is that if I order from USA and I live in Finland, your pricing is it too high for me plus it goes over 22euros so I have to pay taxes and customs too.
Its near 50dollars for me to order. That is the problem.

Unless you want a retailer for europe, then I might be interested. I have a tiny company. I mainly work on other company and do some lil things throught my company, like retailing, programming etc.

Got it all up and running on robo3d the nema runs really hot to hot to touch but not enough to melt pla is this normal?

yup, it will get hot, but make sure you set the current level on your driver (ref instructions), this is VERY important .. these NEMA 14 motors use much less current than a NEMA 17 ... but the smaller NEMA 14 must be run harder to produce high torque, that is the trade-off, small size, more heat. Doesn't hurt to recheck screw tightness after running a few hours (all screws near motor) ... and re tighten ... then they should not get much looser unless there is an overheating issue.

Feb 24, 2017 - Modified Feb 27, 2017

Has anyone have ever had a problem where the motor like jumps back. it isnt retraction because it isnt as smooth and sometimes does it in the middle of a layer. It is weird to me. Is my motor broke or is it something else?

And I mean the motor itself jumps back. I dont think it is slipping because the pinion gear on the motor and shaft jump back.

I don't have the Toranado yet but I have seen this behavior before. In my case, I was pushing the motor too hard and trying to extrude too fast.

im still waiting for the combo kit

Me too! I find myself compulsively refreshing the eBay page so I can buy!

I'm sorry for the delay.

I was sent out of state for a brief trip with my employer... I will have the full kits up next week.... sorry about the delay!

Hi, any time frame for the combo kits to be posted on ebay? THANKS! :D

Any updates on the combo kit availability?

Just curious about status on this as well. Is there a chance they will be ready to ship by this weekend or should I start to order hardware individually? I have my stepper, hot end, and printed parts ready and waiting! Many thanks and respects for your design work and contribution to the community.

Another question. I am only have a 1/16th step controller so I want to make sure my step per mm are right. It is 451 steps per mm right?

That sounds pretty close, but a calibration of the extruder will put you spot on. You know, tell it to extrude 100mm and see how much it actually extrudes. Work from there with it.

I went through the same thing... Better solution is swapping out the stepper controller for a 1/32 setup... It might be as simple as configuring pins if you already have DRV8825 drivers. If not, it's pretty much plus and play. My experience is that the tornado runs much better with a DRV8825 at 1/32. Plug it in and check your voltage per instructions and you will be fine. see link to part below.

https://reprapchampion.com/products/drv8825-stepstick-module-driver-stepper-motor-cnc-mill-3d-printer-ramps-reprap?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=googlepla&variant=7734253571&gclid=Cj0KEQiA25rFBRC8rfyX1vjeg7YBEiQAFIb3b4_9qrRjW5ISwPy8Fsgl3MirGLmtLf0am1vAMLw-rs0aAu2s8P8HAQ

Cant use an 1/32 step because I have a Original Prusa Mk2 which uses a Rambo Mini. But thanks for the response.

I was thinking are you possibly planning to make a bowden setup with the exchangeable hotends. I am building a XY 3D printing and I would like it in bowden but I love the exchanges hotends and there aren't really any like that for bowden.

I think Wes is working on that as a back burner project - a bowden Toranado hotend mount/carriage and conversion adapter to plug in the extruder to bowdenize it .. I know he has been busy with "real work" activities lately .. maybe he can respond soon.

Comments deleted.

any chance the import issues with the cad files will be fixed anytime soon?

Thank you for designing this beautiful extruder. It prints flexible filament without any problems. Good job!

I have the Original Prusa Mk2 with Rambo Mini board. I am not sure anyone knows anything about it but I want to see if I am understanding what I found right.

This is from the Rambo firmware website.

Motor Current
The current for the stepper motors is set by firmware controlling the 8-bit digital potentiometer. For the end user this is seamless. The firmware sets the current at every boot and The following formula from the Allegro datasheet describes how to set the reference voltage: ITripMAX = VREF/(8 X RS). RS, the value of the sense resistor on RAMBo is equal to 0.1Ω. ITripMAX is the current the stepper motors are rated for. Ideally you should start with 70%-90% of maximum. You can verify the voltage for each driver by plugging the reference voltage (VREF) measured at the X_REF test point (Y_REF,etc for the other drivers) in the following formula:
VRef = ITripMAX * 0.8

My VRef form my exturder is 408mV. So if I understand this right it is 408mA / 0.8 = 510mA.

It says it should be like 500mA for the NEMA-14, so would 510mA be alright or should I change the current of it to from 510mA to the 500mA or lower?

Comments deleted.

Can we hope a belt version for the main gear ? Like this option on L3K http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1127022

Less noise, greater accuracy :)

GT2 Pulley For L3K Extruder

I use the toranado, but with petg gears. And it is not noisy at all. At normal speeds there is no howling from the gears.

I am trying to configure Marlin for this extruder. Your calculation page assumes 1/32 stepping. Is that optimal? I have the V1 toranado, clone 4988 drivers. Can you tell me what the Marlin settings should be, and what the stepping setting should be for the extruder driver?

4988 only do 1/16 so take your calculation for 1/32 and half it ;)

Any update on the kit availability?

is there a version for the nema 17 ?

Jan 27, 2017 - Modified Jan 29, 2017

Hi,
I have a Toranado v2.1 already built for sale. It includes: Fan 30mm, Nema 14 motor, Ultibots MK7, Toranado 2.0 gears, shafts, fasteners, bearings and collar, LM8LUU linear bearings and ABS (black) Toranado extruder parts and X axis carriage. All that is missing are the E3DV6 hot end, the BL-Touch probe and the 40mm fan. Make me a serious offer.

Hello,

We are building a D-Bot spec printer sponsored by OpenBuilds @ MRRF on 3/25, 3/26. We would like to use your Toranado design for the extruder. This could get you additional advertisement as we will be streaming this as we build it on site at the fair. We don't have a problem paying for the mechanical component set, we can print the rest based on your STL files on thingiverse. Please contact us if you would like anymore information and please let us know when components may be available. We look forward to hearing from you!

--
Eric

WIll this mount to vslot? Looking at the D-Bot specifically.

Jan 25, 2017 - Modified Jan 25, 2017

I tried to design the Main Gear as STL. You can download it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2061670

Haven't printed util now. I'll try it next few days.

Gears for Toranado Extruder V2.1
by Souko

Just got the parts in the mail and got everything built - finishing up an X-Carriage and will post up some pics. Instructions were very clear and helpful and all things went together extremely well! Great build, thanks!

That is good that you will have parts back up soon cant wait !

Hi looks very good. It would please be adjusted to to 8mm diameter rails with 50mm center spacing?
Thank you very much.

anyone have a workaround for this 48p 94t aluminum gear

Has anyone set this up with a Smoothie Board? Looking at how to set up the config file.
Thanks!

I would imagine it is not too terribly different than marlin. I just got one myself (a smoothie) I will update you on my progress... But if anyone has set one up, I would love to hear about it.

Hey Damrin, yeah not too sure if I am doing this right... I am getting major chatter...
here is my current config settings;

delta_current 0.2 # First extruder stepper motor current

Extruder module configuration

extruder.hotend.enable true # Whether to activate the extruder module at all.
extruder.hotend.steps_per_mm 1067 # Steps per mm for extruder stepper (DEFAUT 140)
extruder.hotend.default_feed_rate 600 # Default rate ( mm/minute ) for moves where only the extruder moves
extruder.hotend.acceleration 500 # Acceleration for the stepper motor, as of 0.6, arbitrary ratio
extruder.hotend.max_speed 60 # mm/s

extruder.hotend.step_pin 2.3 # Pin for extruder step signal
extruder.hotend.dir_pin 0.22 # Pin for extruder dir signal
extruder.hotend.en_pin 0.21 # Pin for extruder enable signal

If you are unable to find a supplier for your gear, it may be nice if you uploaded the gear .obj/.stl/or even just tech drawing so this could be remade on a home lathe / mill.

Just an idea!

That sucks I was going to buy one of youre kits friday so I can build this thing.

same here, wanted to buy the set soon, too. Anyone located in Europe already bought and do not need it?

I have a complete Tornado that I've never used. If you want to take it off of my hands, then PM me. I'd be more than happy to let it go for a good price.

Any advice on the wiring? I count 8 wires needed, but only 6 pins in the connectors.

40MM Fan GND and PWM Power (D9 on Ramps)
30MM Fan GND and +12v Constant
Heater GND and PWM Power (D10 on Ramps)
Thermocoupler T0 GND and Signal

Obviously some GNDs must be shared. My thoughts are to keep the heater GND separate, since it will be carrying the most power. Are there any issues with noise sharing the thermo GND with the fans?

Thoughts?

Thank you for the clarification. Now that you mention it, I suppose it is obvious the 40MM fan is not wired in the plugs, as that isn't removed when taking the hotend out.

Hello.
The 40mm fan/Print fan does not go through that "6 pins" connector.

I have a Original Prusa I3 first generation with the Mini RAMBo 1.3a card inside, will this card work with the Toranado extruder? I do not believe ther will problem with the two fans and the E3Dv6 hotend, but I am not sure if it will work with the NEMA 14 steping motor that drives the MK7 gear. Any suggestions?

anybody do this swap for the anet a8?

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

What kind of filament would you use to print this? Also, is the extruder compatible with the Makerfarm Pegasus printer?

Hi, nice project, I'm seriously thinking to make one.

I read about a Chimera version. Are you really thinking about that? It would be great! :D

Comments deleted.

I am a bit confused by the mixed use of imperial and metric discriptions for the screws used to assemble this thing.
I am working in metric all the time and I don't know a single store here in germany that offers decent prices for imperial screws. So a "#2-32 x 3/8 screw" will be hard to optain.
Also seperated "shopping list" for parts that have to be bought to make this extruder work would be awesome.

AH okay, my bad. Just found a link to your ebay profile in a comment below.

Jan 5, 2017 - Modified Jan 5, 2017
MKSA - in reply to Grevan

These are standard self tapping sheet metal screws suitable for plastic. Their equivalent expressed in metric can be found everywhere. It is true that the vendor should give the standard measures and not the "inch" as nobody uses that outside of the US and even Americans can't use :) (never saw so many rounded bolt heads than in a US automobile shop). 32 means 32 threads per inch, 3/8 is the length in fraction but guess what diam is #2 !

Here a 2 or 2.2 by 10 self tapping screw is OK

What about drill bites? NO WAY to buy it in europe, i had to buy it from US for 30$ plus ship and taxes for a total of 70€ americans is the time to start taking care about the world. 3/32 is not 2.5mm ..... bad choice anyway.

And why did you buy US drill bits ???? THERE IS ABSOLUTELY NO NEED TO ! US drill bits standards are even worse than fasteners, they come in fractional, number, letters, decimal etc all that dating back from the 19° century and nobody able to use them properly anyway.
For the same cost you can buy metric drill bit in 1/10th increment and you cover ALL your need.
Anyway, drill bits are NOT to drill ACCURATE holes, you use reamer for ex. Here too, ONLY METRIC ! If a design is not in metric, simply ignore it.
Do you think the Ford, GM, Caterpillar, John Deere, IBM, Intel etc... still design in "inch" ? No, they have understood that they can save money, produce better design and often they couldn't compete otherwise. Fact is, the US automobile industry would be bankrupt if they hadn't gone metric.
All US standard are in metric anyway :)

Why? so after buy from US an Alu gear, pay the custom fees and shipping cost and VAT i take a 2mm drill bit and then enlarge the holes like the worst hobbyist ever? no thanks, i think toronado is really a good extruder, that can make the difference on my prints. So i want to do everything in the right way. Anyway the best thing will be take 1 standard and use it in all the world....

In your case a 2.4 mm and even a 2.5mm would have worked.
There is one standard used the world over, it is metric. Most of the machinery and mechanical products sold in the US are in metric at least inside. The metric system is legal in the US and all US standards are in metric.

Too bad you have lost money buying these exotic tools, you could have invest it in usefull thing.

You should have required the vendor to give all specs in metric or simply don't buy it.

Hello and happy new year! Just wanted to stop in and say that I took the liberty of giving your thing a name drop on my amazon review of the E3D nozzle assortment fun pack.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013VBTM80/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hope it brings more business!

Comments deleted.

Would this 2.1 model work with the 2.0 full kit purchased from ebay?

Yes, they are identical kits.

Yes, they are identical kits.

how much would you sell one thats fully assemble complete with x carriage????? i would do it but my wanhoa i3 is a pretty much down and im looking for new extruder and this one looks cool

how much would you sell one thats fully assemble complete with x carriage????? i would do it but my wanhoa i3 is a pretty much down and im looking for new extruder and this one looks cool

how much would you sell one thats fully assemble complete with x carriage????? i would do it but my wanhoa i3 is a pretty much down and im looking for new extruder and this one looks cool

how much would you sell one thats fully assemble complete with x carriage????? i would do it but my wanhoa i3 is a pretty much down and im looking for new extruder and this one looks cool

how much would you sell one thats fully assemble complete with x carriage????? i would do it but my wanhoa i3 is a pretty much down and im looking for new extruder and this one looks cool

Comments deleted.

hi would I be able to replace the extruder on my original pursa i3 with this one thanks

I am not sure which printer model you have.

Comments deleted.

Hi,

Is there a way I could get separate STP files from all these parts.
Thanks..!

Nice job btw...!!

Chris

Would there happen to be an upgrade path from RH v2.01 to v2.1 without printing most of the parts over? Thanks!

what about the contest? :)

Still need to upload all of the submissions, test, and pick a winner. #Busy!

I'd just like confirmation on what voltage and current ratings the connectors in the kit are good for. At 12V it would be about 2.5A for a 30W heater cartridge. Can the connectors/wires in the kit handle that?

With a little Google search I found this. http://www.jst-mfg.com/product/pdf/eng/eRCY.pdf

With #22 AWG wires the connector will safely handle 3 amps.

That doesn't exactly answer the question of which gauge wires are in the kit.

Dec 5, 2016 - Modified Dec 5, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to timeshell

The JST connectors come with 22AWG cut leads. I'm running a 40W cartridge heater, and a 12VDC system - meaning I have thrown 3.33 Amps at these connectors for hundreds of hours. As always, it is up to you with whether or not you want to exceed the 3A rating of the connector, but I have not had an issue yet with any of my hotend sub-assemblies, and I use the same connectors on mine that I sell in my kits.

Video showing heating pattern in heat sensitive PLA up to 260C.

https://youtu.be/vVsFcmJ86R8

Thank you VERY much for these vids. I would recommend that you upgrade your 40mm bed fan to the one I am now recommending. I'm very happy with how the v2.1 is performing.

I have learned a great deal about the need to properly vent the 30mm cooling fan since the Toranando v1.0 - and the 2.1 is performing as I hoped it would.

Thank you much!

What is the size of screw for the BL-touch?

The screws that come with the BLTouch should work.

M3x10mm or 15mm button cap should do just fine.

can this extruder print flexible filament?

Absolutely. I print with Hatchbox TPU all the time. Just position the PTFE tubing both in the extruder and on the hotend sub-assembly to allow the smallest opening for the idler bearing possible.

hi, i had buy the 42$ kit on ebay but i seen that to buy the motor and the mk7 gear i will spend 90$ for shipping.... any chance to have both from you within the kit?

I didn't see in the instructions which plug is which. Is there a standard arrangement for the fan/heater/temp probe wiring plugs? I mean, I realise it's unlikely I'll be sharing nozzles but was just wondering.

I need to make an interface spec. Look of it in the next couple of weeks.

Any progress on an interface spec? The wiring is not complicated, but I would like to keep it to a spec of possible.

I am using the Prusa i3 Mk2 printer so it has a RAMBO Mini 1.3 board in it. I know it has PWM for the extruder motor. So this can I just change to setting for it instead of getting a ramp board? If so do you know how to change the PWM setting?

Maybe you should refer to this wiki to setup your extruder. http://reprap.org/wiki/MiniRambo#Changing_Motor_Current_.28similar_to_Trimpot.2FDigipot.29

Have fun. ;-)

I am only familiar with an i3 and a RAMPS setup. I am sorry, but I am unsure of how PWM works in your setup.

Thank you for the response.

Would it work right though if I could change the PWM of the board. To it be ok if plug in the motor to it if I set it right? Also I think it board is 1/16th step for the steppers. Is that ok?

I think so.. but I am not 100% sure, being unfamiliar with your hardware.

Would it the Tornado extruder still work fine with a 1/16th step instead of a 1/32nd step like you have in the equations? Because I did the equation with 1/16th step and it is like 431 steps per mm. Will that be bad?

451

I just had my setup running that way. It works, but I recommend upgrading your stepper driver to a DRV8825 and you will be set to go at 902 for the e-step. It was a big change worth the $8? controller. I was concerned about the motor heat, but it is normal... Scroll down a few comments to check out the comment string...

How do I connect a DRV8825 stepper driver up to the Rambo Mini though? There is no place for it on the board.

@Toranado3D :

Do you have the Toranado 48p 94T Aluminum Main Gear in stock yet and will you be listing it as an individual item to purchase?

This is the last part that I will need once the printed parts and fastener kit is shipped from you.

My printer is currently down, due to a busted extruder and head, so I'm excited to get the Toronado together and running!

Kits and individual gear is posted. New gears arriving Saturday.

Any update on the full kit being available? It stated Nov 28th in the details section. Eager to get going on this :)

Updated. New gears arriving Saturday.

Dec 1, 2016 - Modified Dec 1, 2016
3dtronx - in reply to Toranado3D

Can I reserve a complete kit? Everything except printed parts

I sent you a message on ebay already ([email protected]). As soon as you message me back I will send money

HI Everybody! Seeking some guidance, HOT MOTOR...

I just got my i3 rebuild completed and started successfully printing with the Toronado setup. I love the design! My extruder motor is running really hot. Is this normal? Here are a couple factors that might give some background on my setup.

  1. I am running at 1/16 step. That is the finest resolution that my Geetech control board/motor controller will support. It works great. Just cut the e-steps in half (step = 451)

  2. My voltage is set at .41v. I suspect this why I have the heat issue. I started at .2v but had a stalling condition (if I manually bumped the drive wheel it would re-engage). Note: this is not a mechanical build issue. It worked at very low print speeds (25%) and I was able to increase speed with incremental increases to the voltage ending up with stable extrusion at 100% speed at .41v.

Advice is very welcome!

What kind of driver is it?

Its was a Geeetech A4988 but I swapped out a spare SainSmart DRV8825. SO the 1/32 step issue was resolved. Much smoother at 902 e-steps, but still hot. I am using one of the Stepperonline .04A motor. It was hot so I dialed down the voltage to .21v without a performance issue at 100% speed, but still hot. I was planning on slowly dialing down the voltage until it fails then bump it up a hair until stable.

Thoughts?

Correction---> The DRV8825 is a Hobbypower or Witbot

halfliterpete,

My experience with hundreds and hundreds of hours printing:

  • Even with your reference voltage set optimally, the NEMA-14s run hot. THis is why I developed the PTFE system with tubing and washers for isolating the motor heat from the extruder mount. I have not measured the actual running temp, but I am running mine at the rated voltage, and it is hot enough that I don't want to keep my finger on the motor for more than a second or two.

  • I have never cooled my NEMA-14, and I have run the original motor at rated voltage for over 700 hours of printing without issues, except 1. The one issue I had was that I had to print the 2.1-LH-bearingholder.stl in PET-G because the motor heat allowed the PLA one to relax a bit causing the bearing to loosen too much. I updated the print settings when I noticed this issue.

I know you are concerned about running your motor hot, but so long as you run it at the rated voltage - I can tell you with confidence that this is precisely how the Toranado was designed to run, and I am sure yours will run as good as mine, hot motor and all.

Thanks for the thorough reassurance! I printed all my parts in ABS so that helps too. I'll run updated parts onceI get thereat of my rebuild settled and dialed in.

Thanks for all your hard work!

@Toranado3D - disregard my last comment - the shortened length of the extruder is from V5 to V6, so all good.

I am just getting around to assembling my V1 extruder. Looking at the E3D V6 extruders from MatterHackers, I see that they have shortened the overall length of the extruder. So I'm guessing this won't work - do I need to look for an older version?

Just letting you know that the build instructions show how to use your v1 gearset in a v2.1 toranado if you ever want to get current.

Any news about the availability of the ALL KIT on ebay ? The date grows every week ? I have all the printed part allready and need the rest.

Thank you.

Yes, I received word from my gear supplier yesterday that I can expect them at the end of the week. There is a holiday in the USA on Thursday, so this may delay shipping them to me slightly, but as soon as I have the gears in hand the kits will go up.

Sorry!

Wes

what about shipping cost to italy?

All of the kit links are now active.

Pardon me if this is already asked and answered somewhere (lots of discussion to dig through) but can anyone give me the total height of the fully assembled Toranado from the tip of the nozzle to the top of the very housing? Likewise, the distance in the y-axis between the rear-most portion of the mounting and the center of the nozzle.

I'm debating whether or not to get one of these, but don't want to lose too much print volume.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

Any tips on tuning the idler tension? My previous extruder had a set non adjustable tension, so really new to tuning that part. Any link to guides of how to check it would be great. Thinking it's my issue with under extrusion when any resistance, even the slightest, is put on the filament being pulled in.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

HI Wes, I've been using the new 40mm fan duct and the new fan (Delta AFB0412SH Fan 12V). It really has more air flow! But, even after a new pid tune, it's difficult to maintain the temperature due to the airflow.

Have you ever thought about designing a duct that goes to both sides of the e3d?

Hmm... I am using the new E3d "Socks" on my heater blocks. Are you using those?

The airflow of these Delta fans in the new 40mm fan duct is directed as best as I could at the tip of the nozzle.

What do you mean when you say you can't maintain temp? Your heater block?

The temp of the heater block is taken at the thermistor in the block itself which is shielded form any 40mm fan airflow.

If I have this dialed in properly, you should only see significant airflow at or under the very tip of the nozzle... let me know what you are seeing.

I will check if the thermistor is well mounted and isolated.

By the way, how is the chimera´s toranado design going?

Any chance you might incorporate this concept into a new version of your design?: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1643906

This allows for a solenoid to switch pressure between two separate sides of the extruder hobled bolt in order to to allow for two separate filaments to be fed from either side through a single hotend. Marlin incorporates this and I believe that Repetier firmware does as well.

Addition of this feature would REALLY kick your design into the stratosphere! Lack of dual extrusion support has been one of the reasons that I have not gone with your design yet. That, and ALSO that I see advantages (and disadvantages) in the Bowden setup, which I use. A hot-swappable Bowden option would be nice as well.

Lastly, How do you compensate for the PID tuning of different hot-ends? Different thermistors and heater cartridges can give vastly different results. Are you aware of anything available for Marlin that will allow the possibility of AUTOMATIC Encoderized head selection? Or at LEAST manual (head "A", "B" or "C", for example) selection direct from the LCD screen UI?

Direct drive dual extruder (single-nozzle and single-drive)

I PID autotuned my hotend with my 0.4mm assembly. I have a 0.8mm and a 0.6mm assembly that use the same thermistors (the newer e3D thermistor cartridges).

I haven't needed to autotune with the diff assys... they seem to be pretty much the same and function just fine.

Yes, I have seen this extruder. I'm always looking for new features to add to the Toranado that make sense...

I have several projects already in the works. A dual-chimera, a bowden that uses these same hotend assys, etc.

I do think it would be nice to proliferate these hotend sub-assys for use in different extruders the community.

Wes

I keep a list of PID values for each hotend I use, and I switch between them using M301 in the terminal. My printer is run by Octoprint so it's very easy for me to do. I'm not sure if this can be accomplished with the LCD.

Nov 2, 2016 - Modified Nov 2, 2016

Thanks jakep_82 for the info about the heat related issues. I wished I had known about this before I purchased the plastic kit back in October. If Big Cooter is running a PET-G rig, he must has known about this for some time, but surprisingly enough, he did not mention it here.
Not impress.

Nov 2, 2016 - Modified Nov 2, 2016
jakep_82 - in reply to MyP3Steel

I don't think this problem was obvious or easy to identify. I probably had 80-100 hours of print time on mine before I noticed an issue, and it took me quite a while longer before I was finally able to diagnose what was wrong. My extruder is now back to 100% functional with just a new PETG bearing holder. I'm also replacing my base with a PETG part because mine has sagged slightly, but it still works perfect with the original PLA part.

If I had been using a cooling fan on the stepper motor the whole time I probably never would have had any problems. The mount for the fan helps shield the bearing holder, and my motor runs noticeably cooler with the fan on (but still somewhat hot).

Nov 2, 2016 - Modified Nov 2, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to MyP3Steel

I'm still testing mine... but simply updating to PET-G on the bearing holder is perfectly enough. It is a tiny part, and every other part on my Toranado is 100% PLA with not a single issue.

You can build your Toranado, use it to print a PET-G bearing holder, and then spend about 2 minutes upgrading it. Or, if that won;t work for you for some reason and you are greatly concerned, I will gladly ship you a PET-G bearing holder. Just lemme know.

Again, all you will need is the one part printed - it is the only part on my rig that is PET-G.

I'm sorry you are not impressed - I have tried to stay current with the comments here, and to offer updates to the community as we go along.

Wes

Nov 1, 2016 - Modified Nov 1, 2016

I thought I would post my experiences here so others can avoid my mistakes. I bought the full kit with the printed PLA parts. The extruder worked great at first, but after a while I began to have issues with the filament slipping which led to some failed prints. Eventually I took the extruder off my printer and discovered that the heat from the stepper motor had caused the bearing holder to soften and warp substantially. This resulted in a ton of play in the end of the shaft, and I was no longer able to get good pressure between the idler bearing and the drive gear. After further inspection I found that the entire base piece was also starting to warp due to the heat from the little NEMA 14.

I've now reduced my stepper voltage slightly and added a cooling fan, but even with these changes it runs very warm. I was able to shim the bearing holder well enough to print a replacement piece in PETG, and I'm now in the process of replacing all of the other PLA pieces with PETG in the hopes that it will hold up better over time.

I also think adding a fan to the stepper motor is a necessity if you want to run it close to the rated 0.5A.

Nov 1, 2016 - Modified Nov 1, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to jakep_82

Thank you for your input.

I have noticed two things in my prolonged use of the Toranado:

1) The idler itself tends to warp under the load over time, decreasing the distance between the ider and the housing. If the idler touches the extruder housing, you will not have proper force on the drive gear. I now print my idlers at 85% infill. I might as well print them at 100%. Any time I notice the space between the idler and housing decreasing, I just print a new idler.

2) The heat from the NEMA-14 motor is affecting the bearing holders. I also upgraded to a PET-G bearing holder about a month ago, as well as slightly under-running my NEMA-14. I had the same issue with PLA bearing holders.

Going forward, I am going to have to print the entire Toranado plastic Kits out of PET-G. Since doing these two things, I have printed for hundreds of hours without a failed print (since August) - not a single failure, which is very good.

I am confident that you will solve this issue rather easily by doing what you are suggesting. But it is soooo important to control the motor heat. I do not cool the motor, and have never had better prints... but I am thinking PET-G is the way to go in the future.

I know Big Cooter also runs a PET-G rig... and he has had much success with it.

Since I do the plastic kits as print-to-order, I will update the listing to PET-G going forward, thank you for bringing this to light.

Wes

Thanks for the quick response and info. The new bearing holders I made (I made an extra just in case) were printed at 100% infill. I'll take your suggestion and also print a replacement idler at 100% infill.

I definitely think PETG is the way to go. It offers better heat resistance than PLA, but doesn't have the warping issues of ABS. The only drawback is I have trouble printing it any faster than about 40-45mm/s.

Yes. However, once you have your Tornado up and running and made with PET-G... you can print anything in PLA at higher speeds.

I have been swapping nozzles out quite a bit lately; switching between 0.4mm, 0.6mm and 0.8mm. Since the assys all have 85% infill on the idlers, I haven't noticed any issue with them warping yet, but wonder if they are doing better because I am swapping them a lot... time will tell.

I REALLY need to create a FAQ and technical document for new adopters.

Wes

I meant to say I can only print PETG at around 40-45mm/s. It seems to be slightly more viscous than PLA, and when I try faster print speeds I have some quality issues. Perhaps after I finish replacing a couple more parts on my Toronado I'll experiment and see if I can push those speeds up a bit.

I'm already running PLA at 60mm/s with no issues, and I plan to go faster once I finish adding a few more braces to make my printer frame more rigid.

I'd also like to make it clear that even with these issues I still love this extruder. Print quality was great before the bearing holder warped (and it's great again now that I've replaced it). The ability to quickly swap hotends is also awesome. I have one dedicated to PLA, one for PETG, and another for ABS. The clones are so cheap I'm also thinking about a getting a few more setup with different nozzle sizes.

Anyone getting heavy clicking on retracts? My gears are meshed paper width apart.. Anyway to silence? grease maybe?

If you mean a clanking noise, the big gear "ringing"? That can occur if backlash is excessive, the pinon wacks the back gear on retraction, making it sound off with a "ringing" noise. To reduce backlash, move your motor closer to the big gear. Personally, I do this by feel, idea is to have near zero backlash (slop when reversing), but no binding through a full rotation of the big gear (friction/resistance should feel smooth or constant through a full big gear rotation). Achieving very low backlash is one of the big benefits of using these precision hobbed gears from Toranado 3D .. with 3D printed gears the run-out and irregularities are so large that it is impossible to get near zero backlash without binding of the gears. Make use of those awesome gears, tighten up your clearance, until you hear retraction "clanking noise" go away.

However, if you mean "clicking" as in the stepper motor missing steps? ... then your motor driver needs adjustment (refer to Toranado instructions on how to properly adjust your motor driver ... this is VERY important ... failure to do this will most likely result in a motor missing steps, or a motor running too hot (bad things can happen ... motor burn out, loosening of mounts, distortion of extruder components, etc....).

If you don't know which of the above is going on .. no problem .. you need to adjust both anyway.

I recently printed this project in all abs and I think the gear i purchased is out of round. I have tried adjusting the stepper motor several times but there is no good place to set it. It binds on one side and has slop on the other. Should I be using grease or something between the gear contact surfaces? I have been not using retraction because of the way that it sounds and it has been ruining some of my more difficult prints. I love this upgrade but I am having a difficult time honing in this one adjustment. Please help if you can.

It is highly highly highly unlikely that your gear is out of round. All of the ones we have expected are exceeding the total runout spec. The gear is fine.

You are probably having an issue with alignment between the bearings (your shaft is tilted). Check the fit on your bearing holder bearing to see if it is still snug in the holder and make sure both bearings are inserted into the plastic true.

Nov 14, 2016 - Modified Nov 14, 2016
cyamate - in reply to Toranado3D

wow thanks for the fast response. I will look into taking it apart and making sure the bearing axis' are co-linear. What about using some high film strength lubricant? i just don't want to destroy my gear by running it. thanks again for your help.

has anyone created a spacer for the air gap if you don't have a bowden version of the hotends?

I am so glad that E3D are making a big change to the BigBox, now it will have the X-axis rods running vertically like the Prusa instead of horizontally. Means I can adapt this to the BigBox soon. They are setting up a dual x-carriage with independent extruders, I just need to see if this will also work in such a configuration.

I am sure it can be configured for the horizontal rods. :)

Yeah, but this way I could get it up and running faster. How wide are these?

Is the new 40mm fan duct up yet? The one under Files says last updated June 29.

It is posted

Thanks. I now have it in my hands. Now I just need to figure out how to install it without removing the extruder from the printer completely, it's such a pain to mount.

Oct 20, 2016 - Modified Oct 20, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to AbuMaia

Got it figured out. Remove the big gear and three screws, and the bottom piece falls out. Quick swap, and it's already up and printing again.

A bonus of this new fan duct, is I think there's enough room now on the bottom to place a self-adhesive LED strip. The side-shining ones that you can find in the automotive section in WalMart.

Successfully added lights to the new 40mm fan duct. Pics are in a Make.

No - I am so sorry - will try to get it posted tonight... :)

Hey, hello, I made a plastic gears for your extruder!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1828934

Experimental! the Toranado plastic gear

Expect your plastic printed pinion gear to loosen and slip on motor shaft ... motor heat & plastic stress relaxation are my prior experiences. This is one of the big challenges with reduced size extruders (motors smaller than NEMA 17) .. size reduction comes from smaller motor + smaller diameter pinion gear. That smaller pinion gear has thin walls / features ... in plastic, the shaft set screw can't be torqued to a high level, and then the plastic relaxes quickly due to high stress in thin walls .. then add the heat from pushing a smaller motor with current required for job. Personally, I did build some titanium sleeved 3D printed pinion gears, and they worked Great! ... but fabbing them was a lot of work and material cost, made the pinions that Wes (Toranado 3D) is selling seem cheap. Also, 3D printed plastic gear runout and non-uniformity forces a setup with a lot of loose backlash through half the big gear rotation ... Wes' gears run almost dead perfect (measured runout myself), they can be setup tight, no sloppy backlash, and no binding. I admit, it's fun to 3D print gears and see them work, ... but for an extruder where I want the best print quality and can't afford failed multiple hour print jobs, affordable hobbed machined metal gears are a must have ... I'm done messing with printed extruder gears.

A simple piece to hold some leds for the Toranado.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1818847

Leds for the The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder

Is the BL Touch wiring fished through the JST connectors as well? In the video of the jack-nut removal process that is on youtube, I only counted 6 pins, which accounts for the heater cartridge, thermistor, and cooling fan on the removable hot-end fixture... And it doesn't look like the BL touch attaches to the hot-end fixture... so where are the wires routed?

The BL Touch wires be routed alongside the NEMA-14 motor wires, behind the extruder and up into the harness. You are correct that the only current provisions for the integrated JST connection system are the wires being used for the quick hotend removal (thermistor, heater cart. and 30mm heatsink fan).

thank you for the clarification. looks like a great thingi.

Oct 4, 2016 - Modified Oct 4, 2016

Is this thing mountable on a Anet A8??

It looks like an pretty standard i3. so I would assume it would work. Measure the mounting pattern and compare it to the available mounts on the Details page.

FYI:
Digi-Key sells the RCY crimp connectors for the JST male/female quick connectors used in the Toranado. Accepts 28 to 22 AWG.

Pin contact SYM-001T-P0.5, Digi-Key # 455-1909-1-ND

Socket contact SYF-001T-P0.6, Digi-Key # 455-2652-1-ND

I ordered 25 of each for $3.95, plus $3.40 for 1st class USPS delivery.
Have 2 assemblies, got extra connectors to practice with before cutting.
Really hate soldering, and shrink wrap :p

I enjoy soldering and pigtails, really just a matter of preference, just be sure you make good connections. :)

I had a small problem with the 5mm collar. I tried to order the one you recommended from McMaster-Carr but they would not ship the collar overseas. I found one on banggood http://www.banggood.com/8pcs-3-16MM-Drill-Bit-Shaft-Depth-Stop-Collars-Ring-Set-Wood-Drills-p-966196.html which has a 5mm collar but it turned out to have a 15mm OD instead of 13mm.

I altered the decorative spacer/cover in tinkercad but because of how tinkercad works it was basically guesswork centering the cylinder to remove the space required.

Can you please update the materials list to include the required OD of collar. Also if you could add the collar to the v2.0 combo as well make it easier to find the correct collar.

So far my build is coming along great and it is looking amazing. I am just about ready to commit and disassemble my current extruder and put this on.

Thanks
Gordon.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1758505 is another option. All you need is an m3 grub screw. :)

Shaft collar for Toranado Precision Geared Extruder

You beautiful bastard. This is awesome.

Thank you. However, my parents were married at the moment of my conception.

Any one want a completed Toranado? Way too many irons in the fire.
Just needs the E3D V6 hot end. Printed in MakerGeeks high-temp Raptor PLA-- Vivid Blue with Vivid Red accents.

See it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/make:255218

First $80 (more than what I have in parts) offered shipped Priority in the USA.
All new parts--recommended Pololu NEMA 14 motor, gears, shafts, bearings, screws, fans, wires--installed except hot end. Extra MK7 drive gear used as collar. Even throw in a set of ball-end 2.0mm and 2.5mm hex wrenches. -- [email protected] if interested.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1
by idig3d

80 bucks ??? A Titan extruder goes for 45 pound, ~60 $

Sep 27, 2016 - Modified Sep 27, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to MKSA

Actually, this would be a better point of comparison, since he is selling his fully assembled unit with motor, fans, etc.

You can pick up a good cloned hotend kit for $8-15 dollars on ebay.

Technically, he is violating the non-commercial attribution on this THING (which I watch closely), but it seems like he is just selling the unit he had intended for his personal use this one time. If you can handle the Superman colors, it looks like a good deal.

Sep 27, 2016 - Modified Sep 27, 2016
idig3d - in reply to Toranado3D

Thanks. I'm basically selling if for the parts I have in it. Someone could use it as is, or strip the parts and print in their favorite colors. With $8 priority shipping. not making anything on it. The motor was almost $19 shipped. The hardware and gears kit from eBay fro the designer. Big gear drilled.

Seriously, too many spinning plates and bowls in the air.
https://youtu.be/Zhoos1oY404?t=2m46s

$75 shipped in the US anyone? -- [email protected]

Hi,

Any chance of getting a cleaned up step file of 2.0-lowercover-LH-wpads?
Have a home brew bltouch type probe that I'd like to interface in.

Thanks

Private msg me please.

Hello
could you make a price for 10 piece
v2.0 - Gear and Shaft Kit Only
without ebay for avoided costs
thank you

Any ideas on the kind of springs to use for the idler? I have everything else on the BOM, springs are all thats left.
Thanks :)

Actually, these are one of the most difficult items for me to source. I still get my kit springs from a local hardware store. When I was building the extruder for personal use, I just took the M3 bolt to the hardware store with me and found springs that would do the job.

Do you have a rough overall length and diameter of the wire used on your springs? ID or OD of spring is not all that critical as long as it fits the bolt, but the length and wire diameter determine a lot (force and compressibility)

Word.

Can't publish a remix so here's my modified cartridge parts for the Prometheus all metal hot end:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1774546

Maybe post some pics in the MADE section, along with the E3Dv6.

Prometheus for Toranado

VERY VERY cool.

Please let me know how it works when you test it, etc. and I will add it to the list of addons.

Cheers :)

Had to modify the Extruder Base. Not for the Prometheus, so I can mount it to my X-Carriage by adding a 4th hole 46mm above the two horizontal holes. Plus a hole for a 1/4" tube as a filament guide from the spool. Have V groove idler bearing to use as the tensioner, so don't need the kit's 2mm I.D. PTFE tube.

ExtruderBase-RX.STL file is with the above linked Prometheus stuff.

Comments deleted.

Waiting excitedly for you to re-list the fastener + gears kits...

it says buy kits ?? you sell them ? what typically comes with the kit and would you ne to willing to sell a fully built one of course sold for more?

Yes, I will be listing them tonight/tomorrow.

Yes, I plan on doing that (fully assembled units)

Hello ;)

Where will they be listed ? On the first page ?
I just don't want to miss when they come ;)

Best regards,
Sebastijan

Sep 15, 2016 - Modified Sep 15, 2016
kingkuul - in reply to Toranado3D

well if its compatible with a wanhao i3 consider me sold for a fully built one :)

I really like this design it looks amazing. I was wondering if there is a modification file that will slow for this to mount in a robo3d?

wondering the same lol

I actually found one on the deep dark web. One more question is E3d v6 the only hot end that will work for this or will the stock metal hotend on the Robo3d fit?

You have a Robo3D mount that will work with this v2.0 Toranado?

It took awhile to find but this guy did it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1380864

Toranado Robo3d R1+ Carrier and Fan

Yes, I worked with Jaystar a few months back, he made that for the Toranado v1.0 - it is not compatible w 2.0.

Lol dang I feel like an idiot. I thought I found something sorry to wast your time.

Wes&BigCooter: Have you folk had a chance to play with:
URL:=http://e3d-online.com/V6-Block-Sock-Kit
The sock looks like it would complement the removable hot-end of the Toranado --- (don't if the clearance around the block would allow the sock without modification)
Anywho, what do you guys think?
Thanks St. George

Sock kit looks like a great product from E3D, but I believe it only fits the newer V6 blocks which use cartridge thermistors (the heater block is a few millimeters longer)??? The sock should help to keep plastic from sticking to the the brass nozzle, and of course insulates the heater block, which is a MUST for best print quality! Currently, all my pluggable V6 hotends are the older style and are insulated with ceramic felt wrapped with Kapton tape, ugly, but functional.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1
by dkcsn

Thanks
Looks Good
St. George

Does anyone have an STL file of the Toranado fully assembled? It would make my life easier if I didn't have to make the file myself. :-)

There are package models you can download for this...

A simply beautiful piece of engineering design! Always inspires me whenever I look at it.
I'm currently doing a redesign for my own-design CoreXY. The issue is that while the carriage is very compact, robust and simple to put together, its not easy to swap parts! This is definitely helping me with the new design! :)

where are the kits sold?

I'll have them up in the next couple days

Ebay when they're available. Wes puts up links on the Thing Detail page.

Hello Sir

I'm looking for a compact extruder for my custom printer that I'm about to build. I came across your design and I think it looks (and for what I've seen preformes) very good. I'll build dual x carriage printer and your extruder would be perfect for this. I have several questions:

  1. I'm from Slovenia (Europe) and I would like to know where to order gears for this printer ?
  2. Will you made 3mm filament version of this extruder ? I have 3 E3D 3mm extruders already and it will be very usefull if I could use them. Also I already have 5 MK8 drive gears for 3mm filament from my previous build. Are those gonna work ? What parts would I have to change in order to get 3mm filament working ?
  3. I have K8200 as my work horse heavily modified and I can't find mount for it ?

I'm building new printer from scratch because I want to eliminate all (or most of the flaws) that I've seen in cheep 3D printers. It's gonna have all the bells and whistles that are on the market and some more. So I think your extruder would be a great asset for my design. I'll post build instructions here and on instructables.com when I'll have my prototype running, because I want everyone to have a chance to build proper 3D printer that has both precision and repeatability. No more problems with first layer not sticking and usual stuff. I like to incoporate your extruder with that design.

Best regards,
Sebastijan

Sep 10, 2016 - Modified Sep 10, 2016
Prot0typ1cal - in reply to spetovar

I think they're out of kits at the moment, hopefully will be relisted soon on eBay. Seller is Toranado3D.
There.s a 8200 mount here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1757141

I'm building a dual X carriage machine myself, with Toranados :)
Like this, only more robust for a CNC option:
https://www.bcn3dtechnologies.com/en/catalog/bcn3d-sigma

Suggest you use a 625 V V bearing for the idler, the Mk9 upgrade.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400863307280

TORANADO Support for K8200 Alu Profile

Thank you for your reply!

Thank you for mount. It was strange I didn't found it... I looked for K8200 Toranado and nothing. Well there it is :)
I looked for Sigma and it seems to be solid build. I'm building big 3D printer with CNC and laser support. So it will be very robust.
I haven't work out all the details, but when I do I'll post it.
I have some MK8 lying around I'll go with those. But thank you for suggestion.

All I need are those gears for extruder other than that I'll build everything myself. So I'll have to wait, because the seller you've mentioned doesn't exist. I could make gears myself (I work with CNCs) but it seems only fair that we buy something when gentlemans put so much time in this.

Do you have any info on 3mm option of this extruder ?

Best regards,
Sebastijan

I haven't been able to locate the 2.0-shaftcollar.stl to use instead of the metal version. Is it in a different set of files than The_Toranado_Precision_Geared_1.75mmExtruder-_v2.0.zip?

I am sorry but I forgot to include the .STL on this page.

It is now uploaded.

It is now in both the LH and RH .zip files as well.

Enjoy!

Wes

I finished printing the 2.01-bearingholder-LH - i really can't tell the difference to the 2.0 when they are on the table. - Just love the design of the Extruder

Look at the neck area where the tensioner interfaces with it... I added large angles to reinforce it.

The link for the k8200 mount is broken, anyone have a mount?

I will post you again the file

Trojan, if you have the file please send it - looks like Merlin is no longer on Thingiverse. For now, I have to remove the link.

The K8200 support is uploaded

Thank you, linked to your THING. :)

No Worries :-)

Sep 5, 2016 - Modified Sep 5, 2016

Wes & BigCooter,

I'm in the midst of printing two Toronado 2.0 extruders. In doing so, I'll need to measure and making a mounting plate suitable for the TAZ 4/5/6 series of 3D printers. The TAZ 6 integrates an auto-level mechanism that requires the hot end to make contact with four metal discs on the periphery of the build plate.

I'm not up to the task of modifying the beautiful design you've put together, to add another pair of wires to the JST connector on the removable/replaceable hotend.

Would you consider making a variant version that has 4x JST connectors? I need one more pair for the feed/return wires. Having an extra pair of wires could be useful for a number of other leveling probes ( including the already supported BLTouch ). As a corollary question -- is there a better way than to add another connector?

-Martin

I am currently working on a connection system upgrade... let me finish that, and we can use that as a starting point for considering the possibility of what you are thinking here...

Wes,

I know you're busy with the side-mount version of the Toranado.

Any progress on the connection system upgrade?

I finished my build of the 2.1, but have an ugly hack-workaround for the probe wire. It basically goes along the outside of the unit, so that I can complete the circuit between the toolhead/platform contact pad/connector.

I have finished both extruders ( Will be posting the make -- it's also a "StormTrooper White/Black" since I used white PETG to print them ). For now, I'm routing the auto-level lead directly along the side... not the most elegant, but it works.

Definitely looking forward to the connection system upgrade. Looks like everything works well at 24V, and the JST connectors are handling the amperage well so far.

-Martin

Cool. Will the upgrade have higher gauge wires for the heater cartridge or the possibility of using two pairs of smaller wires? I have a fully built Toranado with an E3dv6 that I've been reluctant to install due to the JST pigtails, which are 22 AWG. I'm no EE, but a 12V 40W heater can draw 3.3A. 22 AWG is only rated at 0.92A maximum power transmission (bundled), 7A open air; our wires are somewhat bundled and partially enclosed in an elevated temperature environment, so I'm a little uneasy. Anyone having heating performance issues or melted wires related to this?

My wires have been bundled and covered, hundreds of hours of printing, they do not get warm at all in my open air environment (My i3 rework). .92A for power transmission must have other assumptions built in other than just the fact that it is bundled - to explain the drop from 7A to 0.92...

Anyway, I am running exactly what you mentioned above... 12v 40W heater @ 3.3A. This slightly exceeds the JST terminal rating as well (3A) - I have had zero issues in hundreds and hundreds of hours of printing on my setup, and I have yet to troubleshoot any issues with the JST terminals and 22AWG wire.

Great, thanks! And gorgeous design work!

I used just the JST connectors from a connector kit on my builds. Some black and some red see pics http://www.thingiverse.com/make:241934 . I used the "cut-off" for the run between the connector and the controller. From what I gather, the connector itself is capable. I would have hesitation about the pigtails too. If you go this route, the crimping too is a must!

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

I soldered all of my splice connections - and then used heatshrink over the soldered splices. Works great.

Comments deleted.

Sure, works for me.

I'm printing a the time Left-Hand and Right-Hand extruder. I've problem to print the ilder 2.01. The part touch not the heating bed, because the wpad haven't the same level. That make problem by the printing process.
A good modification would be also to fix the axis to the ilder with to screws.

Thank you very mutch for this genial exdruder.

Re-download the files. You will see that when I originally posted them (8-26-2016) there was an error in the file - the error that you are seeing. I fixed this issue on 8-29-2016 and re-uploaded the proper files.

Wes

Findus,

I just printed a couple Toronado parts, both LH and LR for the idler. Here's the output from Simplify3D showing the model from the side. This is sliced at 150 micron, and the wpad is level with the bottom. What slicer / planner are you using?

http://imgur.com/JbeVAYU

http://imgur.com/vsyffhp

Hi Martin

I use the software Simply3D and have a Reprap prusa i3 3D printer. The model where I use have the index 2.01.

Nozzle 0.3mm, Layer step 0.15mm, 240°C with ABS-X

Look at my picture the first layer of the parts has not the same level as th wpad.

http://imgur.com/mkghzQN

Did you use an other index of the parts

Kind Regards

Urs

You have the wrong version of the file - re-download it.

Thank's a lot for the advise. It's works know. Do you know, if there some other issue at the old version?
Becouse me printer is working 24h per day to make the parts for the extruder.

Thank you for your help.

Urs,

Simplify3D 3.1.0 on OSX Sierra, part is 2.01-idler-RH-wpad, settings are nozzle 0.30mm, multiplier 1.00 w/ extrusion width 0.38, Layer step 0.20mm ( this is from the specifications given for this by Wes ), infill 80%, 2 shells, 4 top and 4 bottom layers, rectilinear infill with ABS settings -- layer 1

http://imgur.com/dyY8ApM

The file hasn't changed recently, but your layer height of 0.15mm vs 0.20mm may make a difference?

-M

Hi Martin

I've tested all parameters, but I get alwas the same result.

Did you have a idea for too fix this problem?

Thank's for your feedback

Urs

My only suggestion would be to re-download the file, or change slicer?

Did you test both the LH and RH variants?

Testing out the 2.01 parts this morning. I had to cut my tensioning springs a bit because I was putting so much pressure on the filament that the motor stopped even at max current. There's a nice gap at the top between the tensioner assembly and the frame now so I know I can actually adjust tension at this point. The first print is looking very good, so far. One minor change I made was adding a small tab on the front of the tensioner to make it easier to grip. It almost looks like a Killroy face when you print the part but it works well for me.

It looks like a great job on the modification.

OK, I've used it for a full day and my initial impressions were correct; the 2.01 parts are a big improvement. Two rolls of filament that were unusable before are now feeding nicely. Thanks for this fix.

Thank you. Always ensure you have noticeable room between the idler and extruder base.

Sep 4, 2016 - Modified Sep 4, 2016

Another comment to the 2.0 Assembly Instructions.
It could be great having arrows on the Assembly Instructions indicating the airflow of the fan - to be 100% sure :-)

Best Regards
Christian

Thank you for the suggestion.

Almost finished building my Prusa i3. I its gonna be so cool with the Tornado Extruder and BLTouch - right now printing the 2.01 updates.
Two Questions
Using this Nema 14 Bipolar Stepper 12V 0.4A 14Ncm(20oz.in) 14HS10-0404S -
with DRV8825 1/32 stepper

How should the bridge switches be set on the Ramp? all three, like this ?
http://makershopbcn.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/drv8825-en-la-ramps.gif

Measured VREF should be 0,2V right ?

Best Regards
Christian Søgaard Nielsen

1) Yes, all 3 should be jumpered.

2) For the Pololu 500mA stepper that I spec'd, you will need your vREF measurement to be between 0.25V and 0.29V - this will work great if you get it there.

Wes

HI Wes.
Have you ever thought about using a 50mm blow radial fan?

Yes. I purchased 2 of them from Banggood. - and am looking to try to find a way to add this as an option w/o blowing up the whole design (simply replacing the 40mm fan duct with something to accommodate it would be nice. Yes, I stay current with these kind of trends and I know these fans generate more pressure in the duct... '

Looing into it - Yes. Although, I still question it as a necessity because... using my current fan, and extruding about 25mm of plastic (allowing it to hang from the noozzle... and turning my fan 40mm bed fan to 100%... there is enough airflow to bend the filament string 45 degrees, it is moving plenty of air to cool the print bed.

E3Dv6 Bowden X-carriage mount v2 for Prusa i3
by Tech2C

The main idea would be improving the overhangs, so we could use less support.

When I was using the E3Dv6 hotend with a bowden extruder, I had two 50mm blow radial fan and it was amazing!

This looks great and I have ordered all the parts I will need and now I just need to get and not just waiting the 2-3 weeks for everything to make it's way from the US to Australia.

So I can get a jump on this I would like to start redesigning my x-carriage to be able to accept the new extruder. I have look at the documentation and I can't find anything on the mounting layout. I was wondering if you have a CAD diagram with all the dimensions to where the mount points are and the distances between significant points such as the tip of the nozzle and layer fan. Also if there are any consideration like the space between the layer fan and obstructions directly in front of it (directly behind the extruder)

Thanks for all the great work and I can't wait to get it going.
Gordon.

The Toranado Precision Geared 1.75mm Extruder - v2.1

Thanks I did notice this after I posted this but when I compare it to the package model it looks different.The bottom bolts look like they are not on the aligned at the bottom.

I am going to have a play and see what changes have been done.

Gordon.

I just checked and they are the same level. Must have been how OnShape is displaying the 3d object,

I really need to do that... ,make a drawings.

What you can do for now... is download the package model that I uploaded, as well as the .STP file for the x-carriage plastic. Put these together and you should have what you need to start a carriage design.

Wes

At my wits end. Printing great all day and then it stops feeding again. Took apart, cleaned what little dust it had and put back together. Still not feeding right. Not the filament this time. I'm out of ideas. Anyone else having this issue?

Changed out idler, bearings, drive gear. Printed for about 1 hour and wont feed again. Acts like not enough pressure is getting on the filament from the idler. I can shove through with my hand so no blockage. No idea what to try next.

Aug 22, 2016 - Modified Aug 22, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to krwynn

Krwynn,

We are going to figure this out... so frustrating.

When it stops feeding, are you trying to push the filament through at the moment it stops, or are you waiting till it cools, heating it back up and then trying. The reason that I ask is that your failure mode = "It extrudes well for an hour or so then stops feeding" almost always means that the heat break is getting too warm, and it wont feed because the filament is meting into the heat break zone. I know you said your fan was good to go... but time and time again this failure mode was due to the heat break getting too warm. (Even a 30mm fan installed backwards). I know you would have checked that... but I had to mention that your failure mode exactly matches a cooling problem.

Do you still have clearance between your extruder housing and idler bearing holder? If they are touching, force will not be properly distributed to the drive gear. if you manually push on the idler bearing, does it then begin to extrude? The force exerted on the drive gear should closely match the force required to open the idler. If your springs are compromised in some way, and not enough force is being distributed, I can send you some new springs to try. Again, this does not seem to match an "It extruded well for an hour" problem.

Lastly - If you look at the drive gear teeth under a magnifying glass - are the teeth worn smooth anywhere or are they still sharp and able to engage the filament. I am not thinking this is the issue, or it would not extrude well for an hour - but worth a look.

Wes

The 2.01 versions seem to have done the trick. Well done sir with figuring out the issue. I'd declare this issue resolved. Thanks Wes!

Kevin, I have about 25+ hours with the new setup, working perfectly too.

Good stuff.

Wes

Awesome. Have been printing all day. Working flawless. I bumped up the speed to where it use to take 3 hours now only takes 1.5 hours. Love it!

Hi Wes,

We are going to figure this out... so frustrating.

Yup, as I love it otherwise.

When it stops feeding, are you trying to push the filament through at the moment it stops, or are you waiting till it cools, heating it back up and then trying. The reason that I ask is that your failure mode = "It extrudes well for an hour or so then stops feeding" almost always means that the heat break is getting too warm, and it wont feed because the filament is meting into the heat break zone. I know you said your fan was good to go... but time and time again this failure mode was due to the heat break getting too warm. (Even a 30mm fan installed backwards). I know you would have checked that... but I had to mention that your failure mode exactly matches a cooling problem.

The moment it stops or starts acting up I can push it through. Checked the fan last night too. All working good.

Do you still have clearance between your extruder housing and idler bearing holder? If they are touching, force will not be properly distributed to the drive gear. if you manually push on the idler bearing, does it then begin to extrude?

Yes. But its very small. When it stops if I push this in with my finger it will sometimes take off again. However, its not at the top of the idler I push, but rather the middle, around the bearing area.

The force exerted on the drive gear should closely match the force required to open the idler. If your springs are compromised in some way, and not enough force is being distributed, I can send you some new springs to try. Again, this does not seem to match an "It extruded well for an hour" problem.

I've tried both loosening and tightening the screws. Doesn't seem to make any difference either way.

Lastly - If you look at the drive gear teeth under a magnifying glass - are the teeth worn smooth anywhere or are they still sharp and able to engage the filament. I am not thinking this is the issue, or it would not extrude well for an hour - but worth a look.

Looked at that too. They looked fine but I changed to a new one anyway. If still didn't feed right.

Wes

I didn't change anything other than what I mentioned earlier. I took off about a 1m section of filament and started again. Have had 2 successful 3 hrs prints since. Nothing about the filament looked odd or suspicious.

Thanks Wes.

Are you 3D modeling bosses still working on a Chimera design?

krwynn - in reply to

Look 3 lines down.

I'm digging the design. But I have clone heat sinks. Do you have any other files than step I can use. I need to bump the diameter from 22.5 to 25.0 to fit these clones.

Don't use clones, I know, but I have like 20 of them so... a scad or something would be cool, just for the parts I need to change. Trying to out my clones in this setup just cracks the parts. I'll post my updates so they are avaliable for evwryone if you'll just "loan" me something other than stp files that I have to piece together.

I have the same issue, Please let me know if you get a hold of the files or anything to help fit those clones.

I actually wound up just ordering the right V6 extruders. I talked to the designer and the tolerances are too high to rework it for a v5. We bought a new house and I've been offline for about 5 months now. I have these built and ready to install, but just little to no time to actually work on printers right now.

Hi Troanado3D,

I love to see your work.
Haven't you mentioned you will look into a dual extruder ?
Not sure if you meant this for two v6 or the multiextrusion systems from E3D. I was hoping you look into the Chimera / Cyclops hotends.

Do you have any plans for this multiextrusion hotends from E3D ?

Is there any chance you might know how one could possibly trick a Makerbot Rep2 to think it is a 2x and do dual extrusion ala Chimera/Cyclops with a E3D + Volcano Hot,

Yes I am designing the chime era version now

That are good news :-)

Aug 17, 2016 - Modified Aug 17, 2016

Hi Wes,
I am building my second hot end holder (V2.0) this time for an original E3D V6 ( the last one was for a clone E3D) and I have noticed the same thing with both and that is a gap of about 2mm or so between the fan mount and the idler holder/ hot end clamp. This makes the installation of the single screw not effective. The hot end fits the clamp, as does the fan on the fan mount, so my calibration is O.K.,
I'm tempted to add a spacer but I thought I'd check with you first.... did I miss something? BTW I love how the V2.0 is working!
Regards Dennis

Any chance you can send me a photo of what you mean?

Request --- LulzBot TAZ 6 mount ( not neccesarily a carriage mount -- the TAZ has a quick change system that only requires the removal of one screw at the top of the X carriage ). TAZ 6 uses an electrical contact leveling at four corners, so I'll probably have to add another wire to accomodate and screw it into the e3dv6.

I guess I'd need dimensions and pictures....

Lulzbot is open source -- all the parts for the Olive ( TAZ 6 ) and previous printers are available for download ( including the source files ) at:

http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/Olive/production_parts

The particular part that carries the toolhead is the X-Carriage, and it has a guide attached to the bottom that allows the exchangable heads to V-slot and self-align into place.

http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/Olive/production_parts/printed_parts/x_carriage_taz6/
http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/Olive/production_parts/printed_parts/x_carriage_guide/
http://devel.lulzbot.com/TAZ/Olive/production_parts/printed_parts/extruder_mount_taz6/

The completed assembly looks like this:

https://ohai.lulzbot.com/project/flexystruder-v2-install-lulzbot-taz-6/accessories/

Any way you can revise the file to get this adaption to be compatible with the ANET A8 i3 X-carriage(Zonestar, hesine m505, etc)? Also for those who have ABL where are we going to place the proximity sensor(12mm LJ12A3-4-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch NPN)

did you look at the prox sensor brackets people have made for he BL Touch mount

Aug 11, 2016 - Modified Aug 11, 2016

Hi All -

Use coupon code TORANADO and save $5 off each spool of filament PLA, PETG, TPU, & ABS when purchased with our MK7 drive gear and a genuine E3D V6 hotend. Our filament is made by Toner Plastics in the USA. They guarantee roundness, size, and purity. Offer ends August 31, 2016.

Happy Printing!
Brad www.UltiBots.com

I see you're offering the full plastic kit on ebay. Is it correctly stated on the sale page that it is printed in PLA? Is that not going to cause a problem, especially with the parts around the hotend?

In the last 3 weeks, my Toranado (completely printed in PLA) has been working 12-15 hours a day, without any heat or issue. And I'm still using V1.0.

All of my Toranado Extruders for my various printers have been printed with PLA, I have never had a problem with it.

The parts around the hotend are not affected by the hot-end heat, the plastic is far enough away from the hot nozzle to affect it. The cold-end is cooled by the 30mm fan, this keeps it well below the reflow temp of PLA.

As far as the NEMA-14 motor is concerned, that is why we inegrated PTFE heat isolation into the motor mounts.

I am 100% confident in PLA, have never had an issue, and the majority of Toranado users have printed theirs w/ PLA.

Aug 16, 2016 - Modified Aug 16, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to Toranado3D

I just received today the hardware and plastic kits. I have it mostly assembled already. One problem though is there was no drill template in the plastic parts or in the hardware. Was that something I should have requested specifically? I think I can print one out no problem, just wanted to check if it was overlooked.

Edit: one other question, how tight should the idler retainer be?

I am sorry - and you are right - If I am going to offer plastic kits to those wanting to build an extruder from the ground-up (especially those w/o printers yet) I need to include the drill template! It was an oversight and I'd be happy to send you one, just message me your address and I'll get it out in the morning.

I usually tighten the screws on the idler to be about flush with the bottom of the M3 nyloc nuts. However, I haven't done any force testing. Too much force and the idler retainer is too difficult to open, not enough and you won't have enough force on the filament. It should be hard to open the idler retainer, but not impossible... How is that for an exact science? :)

I have a 3/32 drill bit, but I don't have a 9/64, or the metric equivalents. I do, however, have a 5/32 drill bit. Since this hole is to permit access to one of the motor mount screws, I take it making this hole slightly larger won't be an issue?

Correct. So long as your Allen key can pass through

Aug 29, 2016 - Modified Aug 29, 2016
AbuMaia - in reply to Toranado3D

I have finally finished assembly. Today I updated Marlin with the new measurements, and made my first prints with the Toranado. No problems at all. :)

Now I need to get either a capacitive sensor or a BLTouch so I can re-enable bed levelling. Well, maybe not need, I'm a few prints in using just a Z min endstop switch and no auto bed levelling, so maybe I can just skip that part. :)

Next up is printing out some replacement parts to get the dual-tone colour scheme going.

I did adjust my stepper drivers to 0.2V, but the motor was having too hard a time pushing the filament through the E3D, so I bumped it up a little. I checked the motor during the last two prints, didn't seem to be getting too hot, I could keep my hand in contact with it.

hi! just setted up all toranado and it dont extrude well, too slow extruder, i think its thing of mm per step but i cant find my mistake, any ideas?

I have 8825 drivers, vref set at .25 and had to set my extrusion to 949.5. Its a perfect 100mm.

Almost everyone who has built a Toranado extruder has had to dial it in. Now, to dial it in you will need to use this calculation and update your Step_PER_MM in your firmware. You will also need to make sure you enter the proper data into the calculation (i.e. you need to know if you are using 1/32 or 1/16 drivers, etc.).

Comments deleted.

Even with my vref dialed in to .24 (8825 Drivers) my NEMA was still getting extremely hot. I made this fan mount and hooked up a 40x40mm fan and it cooled it down 25c+. I can put my finger on the NEMA now and its just barely warm after long prints.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1708578

Fan Mount for NEMA 14
by krwynn

Will add this to the accessories. Thank you! If you can, post a pic to your make, i'd like to see it.

Done! Fits like a glove.

Went from printing like a champ to now I can't get a grip on the filament. Anyone else? Solutions? Something I can try?

Same trouble for me. Been trying to figure out if its the hotted or the grip on the filament. I have tried multiple filaments and a couple of hotends now with the same result. It takes a bit of force for me to stop the large gear with my hand so I don't think the motor is to blame. I have dialed in the drive current. I had no issues at all with extrusion with my old wades setup and NEMA 17. I really wanted swappable hotends for different nozzle sizes and I love the elegance of the toranado but can't seem to figure out why the filaments goes slow then fast when extruding... :(

Did you figure this out?

Aug 7, 2016 - Modified Aug 8, 2016
krwynn - in reply to Toranado3D

Not really. I has in the middle of a roll and noticed some really thick sections and then some really thin sections in it. Most of it was still in the 1.77 range though. When I first built the hot end assembly I made sure everything lined up perfectly. Fed some filament into it and could not pull it out with my hand. Today I could push or pull it through. Anyway, I switched out the roll and so far so good. I printed off another idler just in case it starts acting up again.

Aug 9, 2016 - Modified Aug 9, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to krwynn

I'm doubting it is the size of the filament...
If your filament won't push/pull manually you may have a clogged nozzle or large filament as you are thinking (but I have yet to see that as a failure mode).

Check four things.

1) Make sure there is no filament in the drive gear teeth - I usually take mine out and clean it with a toothbrush.
2) Make sure there is a gap between the idler and the extruder body.
3) Make sure that the gear rotates without getting bound up gear to gear. There should always be a slight slight gap between the gear teeth.
4) Make sure your 30mm fan is not full of dust or wearing out. Sometimes the bearings wear out and they don't push as much air (CFM too low). If the hotend won't stay cool and the melt zone is too far up the heat break, it won;t extrude well even if everything else is good to go.

It just happened again. I think I have it narrowed down to the PFTE tubing. It either stopped feeding at the top of the extruder or the top of the E3D. Not sure which. The drive gear almost ground through the filament either trying to push or pull. Oddly enough it was in the middle of another roll and make of filament. Not noticing any glaring size difference in the filament this time though. Hot end isn't plugged as I can get it up to temp and shove it right through. Stumped.

It was the filament. Roll is garbage from the center of the roll on. Varies from 1.50 to 1.82. Chalking it up to a bad roll since I've probably been through at least a dozen rolls of this same filament. Its been fine since I started a new roll.

As for the rest:
1) Make sure there is no filament in the drive gear teeth - I usually take mine out and clean it with a toothbrush.

Clean as a whistle. 1st thing I always check

2) Make sure there is a gap between the idler and the extruder body.

Have used the second version you uploaded from the beginning. Clearance was and is fine.

3) Make sure that the gear rotates without getting bound up gear to gear. There should always be a slight slight gap between the gear teeth.

Set perfectly. Hasn't changed

4) Make sure your 30mm fan is not full of dust or wearing out. Sometimes the bearings wear out and they don't push as much air (CFM too low). If the hotend won't stay cool and the melt zone is too far up the heat break, it won;t extrude well even if everything else is good to go.

No dust. Only had been in operation less than 1 day before I had issues.

Thanks

Aug 17, 2016 - Modified Aug 17, 2016
flyingnut40 - in reply to krwynn

I had the same issue with an extreme variation in filament that would not pass the tube. I pulled 20' off the roll and ran my hand down it and WOW, the variation was disgusting. This roll was from Folger Tech (black PLA) and I got similar results from some blue Chinese stuff as well..... lesson learned I guess..... unless there is a certified (guaranteed) quality filament that you are willing to buy there ARE going to be bad batches from just about any source. I'm now thinking I may have had some beginners luck in that my first 4-5 rolls were problem free..... I have since ordered a filament width monitor based on the ATTiny 85 to help with any quality issues around undersized sections but the fatter parts still get stuck..... either way the on screen readouts of the size will be easier to monitor in real time.

i have a minor issue. Filament retraction is a bit to much. does anyone have a suggested setting? the gears will retract the filament so much and not be able to push the filament through the throat because it becomes deformed.

I use 1.0mm retraction.

I'm set at 2mm and haven't had any issues.

Printing! Working flawless so far. Has a rattle somewhere driving me mad, Anyone else have that? Not the linear bearings, I use sleeves.

I have the gear rattle too. I have an enclosure so I can drown it out. :)

I didn't have gear rattle. Never actually said where it was as I didn't know. However I did find it. Was the x carriage. I had forgotten to finish tightening up.

im having gear rattle as well. i was about to ask the same thing ha

Gear rattle is caused by the metal-metal on the gears, when there is sometimes just a bit too much gap between the gears. You will hear it "Click" when the gears touch. Try to ever so slightly tighten the gear-gear spacing, but not too much!

Aug 4, 2016 - Modified Aug 4, 2016

Anyone using the BL Touch with Repetier-Host? I upgraded to Marlin 1.1.0 RC6 and everything compiled great. However, I can home X and Y fine. But if I try to raise or lower Z by more than .1mm manually it acts likes it being held back by something in Marlin. Works fine in Pronterface but I hate using that. Any clues to what might be going on? If I try to move up or down 1 to 10mm the probe acts like its trying to home but no movement at all. Motors sound like they have hit a restriction which isn't the case. Like I said, up and down is fine in Pronterface. Thanks

SOLVED

Had to change the following:
Changed the following and I'm good.

//#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25}
//#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {3000,3000,100,10000}

define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {250, 250, 2, 22}

define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,5,1000}

//#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000
//#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000
//#define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 3000

define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 500

define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 500

define DEFAULT_TRAVEL_ACCELERATION 500

So, you have solved this issue, correct?

Yes sir. Works fine. Just needed to slow it down a bit.

FYI, Just tried Marlin 1.1.0 RC7 that has a new BL Touch section and still the same results. Everything else is working great.

I am in the process of printing and assembling the Toranado, and it appears the 5mm shaft collar model is not available. Was this removed due to an issue with using a printed one vs a metal one?

Aug 3, 2016 - Modified Aug 3, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to gsimpson2g

Yikes! I need to add info on that. No, it is the same as it was in the legacy versions. You can get the shaft collar .STL on the Legacy Site Here. I will update this today, thanks for noticing this.

Thanks! I am amazed at how easy the parts are to print, this extruder is extremely well designed.

Hey Wes and BC, great work, looks incredible.
I made one but now i`ve some trouble to configure the extruder in the right way.
Can somebody send me his slic3r configuration or the required repetier configs f.e. :

  • correct ratio of extruded filament (???set the extrusion multiplier on 9, to get enough extruded Filament ;) ???)
  • travel- and working-speed
    all materials are the required one.
    Best Regards, Chris

Did you set your Steps_PER_MM properly on your extruder per the instructions?

What drivers are you using?

Wes

Yes now it works thanks.
I haven´t found the setting where to set it up befor but now its all ok.

Jul 30, 2016 - Modified Jul 30, 2016

Hi , i live in Portugal and i would love to get all the metal parts to make this extruder.
Do you have a link where i can get everything in a single package? Because the shipping of everything i need to order brings the extruder cost to 180$.
Please let me know if there is a single kit to order.

Also i at what print speed can reach?

Best Regards, Pedro

I am going to offer those in August.

That will help a lot thanks.

gvalente take a look at LED strips. Each strip is 10x50mm and it looks like it could fit for both versions. Yours is a nicer option to what I threw together that the BLTouch mount. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1662074

LED Light Strip Mount for Toranado v2.0

If you want an LED light on this extruder, I would suggest not mounting it on the removeable hot end assembly ... and locating it where it will not block your view of the nozzle. Personally, I have found it more practical to light the entire heat bed area, instead of just a spot of light under the extruder .. most cameras do not get along well with just a bright spot of light like that. Have a look at the pair of light bars I put on my PRUSA i3 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1398522 very inexpensive leds strip lights, VERY bright ... and with a sheet of paper, your print bed can also serve as a nice photo studio for your printed masterpieces!

LED Light Bars for 3D Printer

It looks like it would work to me. It all depends on how far down the LEDs go.

That is very low for a BLTouch adaptor. It needs to sit higher compared to the nozzle.

This is not for the bltouch itself. It's for leds.

Looks good. I'll be watching for it. I second the recommendation about making it BLTouch compatible.

Thank you, working on it :)

Very nice.
I like the renderings.

Have you thought of merging the fan cover and your design as one.
And please don't forget the BLTouch version. ;-)
Cheers!

Thank you :)

I thought about merging the fan cover but I think I'll keep it like this.
And yes, the BLTouch version will be available :)

I'm nat able to get the idler to put enough pressure on the filament to get good filament movement without slipping. I've printed the new idler part and ordered the drive gear that you link to. Any ideas about something I might be missing?

Check carefully... this is exactly why I created the new idler. You should be able to see a space between the extruder base and the idler. If you do not see this space... and it bottoms out, this is your problem. Be sure you press the hotend sub assembly in tightly as you tighten the screw. to hold it in place. Again, if there is no gap between the extruder and the idler... it won't work to put tension on the bearing.

Also... if there is a gap... it is always wise to remove the drive gear occasionally and clean it with a hard toothbrush or light wire brush. Especially is you have had a nozzle clog, etc, that caused the drive gear to slip on the filament. Check the drive gear closely and see if there is any filament packed into it.

Update: I think I've got it working OK now. I trimmed a bit off the upper section of the idler and also moved the pivot hole on the idler holder about .5mm towards the filament drive gear. My test prints seem to be working now.

That certainly seems to be what is happening. I'm tweaking some parts to see if I can address it.

Comments deleted.

Any news about the Dual Toranado with the Chimera? :) You bought the original E3d Chimera or the chinese version with the pneumatic coupling? I want to buy it but don't know which one to buy, with or without pneumatic coupling.

Thank you.

I have it framed into 3D space - and have been preventedd from working on it due to my summer schedule. I bought the one with the pneumatic coupling... trying to make it work with both though.

So if I buy the same as you - with the pnematic coupling - it will work with your design..

Yes sir.

Let's see a sneak peak of the dual extruder!

Jul 28, 2016 - Modified Jul 28, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to alanacial

This pretty much sums up the Dual development at this point. ;) The design will be released on the same day the THING is up.

LOL I can't even imagine having to answer that question time after time after time.

Thank you!

Hello, Do you know if a mount exists that would allow me to mount this on my c-bot/D-bot.

probably, not. though it wouldnt be too hard to design and use with some countersunk M3's

I thought about using a toranado for my triple C-bot but went with a titan instead. I hvae 2 Toranados on my i3's

Hello! Here is an idea I have been pondering for a while. How about embedding a photo interrupter in the path the filament in the upper end of the extruderbase. I'm thinking that something like an HY301-19 or HY301-21 or HY860D might fit the bill. Adding this component could be use as a end of filament detector. I think it would be a great addition to this already amazing extruder.

Good idea!

Great!
Would it be possible to get some dimensions of your design so I can make an educated guess at which of those photo interrupter I should get?

Hi, wanted to rework the BLTouch mount for a similar touch probe of my own design but the step files are not solids so I can only edit one surface at a time.
Can you re post the step files as solids and not collections of surfaces?
Really looking forward to trying this awesome design.

Thanks

I am gogin to try and figure out why it is coming in as sheets... as soon as I do I will upload the new CAD.

Hi, Any progress on this?

Comments deleted.

Excuse me for my question , but do i need to print some parts with ABS or all in PLA or PetG ?

Thank you.

Wes and I have tried PLA and PETG .. for all the parts, either should work well. Neither of us do much printing with ABS (shrinks a lot and bed adhesion is more difficult IMO), but it should work also for any of the parts. Print quality with PLA will be very good .. PETG less so .. but PETG is a very good material, tough, stiff and high temp like ABS.

Thank you.

I have to say that I'm glad I waited for v2.0. The design of the extruder is extraordinary. Everything fit like a glove. There were 3 or 4 times during the construction I thought; this is not going to work. I was wrong. I really cleaned up very little before I started the build. I can't say enough about the design and how well everything fits together. I can't wait to see how it prints. Well done Wes and Cooter. Well done.

Thank you.

It is cool. I want to use it in my UM2 printer. Some parts that I have to redesign.

Just got my kit today. Thanks! I'll post a Make when I finish printing the parts.

I have two question, 1. the ptfe tubing once you have that in place you cut the extra ? 2. is there any sugestion on how to run the cables from the e3d to the quick connect or any guides ?

Do i need the PTFE tubing in there ? my filament will not go in,

Jul 26, 2016 - Modified Jul 26, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to fvargasfrank

The PTFE tubing in the extruder housing will allow it to fit. You didn't use too long of a screw on your decoration cover by the filament tube did you? This might compromise the tube and make filament get stuck.

Stupid question maybe. But here it goes. Should i just cut of the wires on my nema17 extruder (sunhokey prusa i3) and solder the connections on my nema14 or is there another connection entirely on the ramps?

That'd certainly work, just be sure you connect the wires like This. Also read the technical data on the details page about setting your stepper reference voltage.

Jul 14, 2016 - Modified Jul 14, 2016

Can you please make a version of 2.0-decorationcover-LH.stl for m3 nut?

I noticed on my hotend assy that if I remove the 40 millimeter mounting screw I have no clearance between The Idler and the Extrusion base but when I put the screw in place and snug up I have at least 2 to 3 millimeters of space with the filament inserted. Ive made three assy and theyre all the same. Im gonna hold off on making the new version.

Jul 13, 2016 - Modified Jul 13, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Tinroof866

Tin roof, short-lurker, thanks for the feedback. The new .stl was only a precaution and it only helps, but continue to keep an eye on this if you can. Just take a peek from time to time to see if the idler is properly in place. Thank you!

It might be the case where if you were checking the gap between the idler and base without the 40mm screw that the removable assembly shifted out. This happened to me as I forgot to replace the screw and it shifted out as I locked the idler and tried to prime filament and it didn't move.

Prior to the updated idler part I just ran the part across a metal file which worked just fine.

Where did you get your stepper motor from? I have been looking all over and everything is really expensive, out of stock, or with overpriced shipping.

Jul 12, 2016 - Modified Jul 12, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to Bsbarbaro

Obviously, I got mine from the link I spec'd below. If the shipping in prohibitive (and larger items shipped from the USA usually are), you will have to find a local stepper motor supplier.

That was the one I found, but it is out of stock now :(

I have purchased one of These but have yet to test it. However, several makers have used it successfully., It is actually lighter than the one I spec'd and has a slightly higher holding torque. Feel free to give it a try and post your findings.

That's the motor i'm using. It seems to work fine.

Comments deleted.

Tell me please, can be replaced by something 3x M3 PTFE Washer?
I can't find them
May be it can be printed from PET?

Maybe also try making your own from proper OD and ID PTFE tubing... might be worth a shot.

The PTFE washers are used for heat isolation between the NEMA 14 and plastic. You are free to try other methods... But notice that the slots in the Extruder base are also designed for use w the PTFE tubing.

What is the best way to get an X-carriage mount for a specific printer? I have the STL file for my printer's X-carriage, but am not sure how to make it compatible with the Toranado.

Also, my printer (gMax 1.5 XT+) has a board on the side that connect an Ethernet cable to in order to connect the hot end wiring. Is there a good place on the Toranado to be able to add that as well or should I simply mod the wiring to use standard wires instead?

Jul 11, 2016 - Modified Jul 11, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to davec3275

Well, I certainly cannot create mounts for every printer on the market. What kind of printer do you have? gMax 1.5 XT?

I don't expect you to be able to do that. I was just asking about how to go about it? While I have been using 3D printers for several months now, I am still very new to the 3D design aspect of it.

Yes, the gMax 1.5 XT+.

He has STP CAD files zipped up in the Things Files section.
I used it to figure out the mount pattern and distances from nozzle tip.
http://www.idig3d.com/transfer/toranado_mount_pattern.pdf

The hole patterns looks to be 23mm square, and the nozzle is about 65mm down from the bottom hole, and about 58mm from the back of the the extruder.

Have to figure out why my .STP files are importing as surfaces and why the .STP translators can't close the volume. Did you have that issue as well?

Yes. Surfaces only when importing into Onshape for me. Tried using Rhino (over my head--forgot how to use it) and export in various format, all resulted in surfaces. Currently, only need the mounting pattern and nozzle offsets for my ideas.

Well, I need to fix that - but it will work in the meantime. First things first - I need the Right-hand files released, the dual-design completed, then clean up these things.

Wes

They come into Creo as just surfaces also.

wow answered some one else's question that was posted after mine but not mine.....and I have my EBay order of the other parts needed in my EBay shopping cart awaiting payday..........

Sorry I missed your comment. I replied below.

Anything change with 2.0-30mmvent-LH-wpad.stl besides the side of the pad? Thanks

Nope, just reduced size of print pad.

Thought so, just wanted to make sure. Thanks.

hello thanks for putting this up for downloading... I have a question .. will the extruder still work and be structurally sound if I print all the parts at 1.5mm layers with 40% infill ?..that way I can print all the parts at once in a single setting..

Jul 11, 2016 - Modified Jul 11, 2016
Toranado3D - in reply to cward91279

What do you mean printing the parts at 1.5 mm layers?

There is no disagvantage to printing all of the parts at higher infill (other than total weight of the plastic).

I want really good detail in the print... So thinner layers..

I think you mean 0.15 not 1.5. That makes sense now

I would think that would work OK but it might be overkill on some of the parts. The best way to find out is to give it a try. FWIW, I printed mine as specified here.

Jul 11, 2016 - Modified Jul 11, 2016
cward91279 - in reply to mperdue

Thank you for the input I'll let you know how it turns out... I will be printing with clear transparent pla ...

Very clever design and idea, particularly like the ability to swap the hot end over and the removal method.

One question, how much does the whole assembly weigh approximately?