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ROBO3d Bed Leveler ~Revised

by Tesseract, published

ROBO3d Bed Leveler ~Revised by Tesseract Jul 30, 2013

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Summary

The solution for bed leveling with no loss in bed height

It is very simple yet very effective it is simply two hollowed out shafts that slide inside each other that the screw can pass through each shaft has a 2mm base or cap for support the key thing here is that there is an internal spring that pushes the two shafts apart.
as can barely be seen in the images

The problem before with just springs is that they generally have no horizontal support and could allow the bed to shift as the bolt tips the intermingled shafts help prevent this.

This was actaully but together with a spring from a pen but was designed for use with a spring from MCMaster-Carr but could be used with similar springs else where.
The important specs:
Item: Metric Compression Spring
Material: Music Wire,
Length uncompressed: 19mm Overall,
Diameter: 9mm OD,
wire width: 1.00mm Wire-WOW nice and thick should make it stable horizontally
compressed height: 7.5mm
so fully compressed the height will be 11mm current height is 12mm it expands about 8-9mm but you should not need nearly this amount.
The McMaster Carr product number is: 94125K633
and the link is: http://www.mcmaster.com/#94125k633/=p19bik

the cost for the springs is just over $10 for a 5 pack but should be extremely stable in the horizontal plane

The current shaft will have to be removed in order to implement this leveler as the new shafts take its place.

Have fun.

I am glad that so many people are printing these things out and using them I just added another it is called robolevel7mm.stl , it is very similar to the original. The only difference is the smaller piece only has a 7mm hollowed out section to allow for a 7mm spring as the 9mm may be hard to come by still focus on 1mm wire size and the rest of the specs as close as you can to get optimal use

I just uploaded the netfabb repaired version for both groups because I think something happened to the originals as some were having trouble with it, sorry if this caused any inconvenience.

Instructions

I recentely added the extra nut and washer(in the circle in the last pic) and it now makes the entire thing mush more steady and easier to adjust the main instruction is in the description but I am adding this as well the exploded view is a better way to install it on the rail system the Robo currently uses. Normally the screw/bolt coming through the rail and the original stand off was not menat to be moved so it was simply screwed down tight but when using the bed levelers some times that screw would turn when trying to adjust the locking nut on top so I added a flat washer and an additional nut that goes inside the lower portion of the bed leveler to lock that screw and the lower part of the bed leveler down and keep it all from moving. That potentially loose screw becomes a locked down stud and the spring then simply rests on top of the nut and makes adjustments very very easy now just a turn of the nut to raise or lower the bed without having to try and get underneath to hold the screwwhile turning the nut.

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How long are the screw they use now if I remember correctly the fully compressed state of that assembly is about 10-11mm and it had an expansion of 8-9mm so I would assume the length required would be about 15-20mm to give enough room for the nut to be securely on the screw and give some play. Originally they had a spacer that was about the same height about 10-11mm and I modeled this part with that in mind so that the screws could be reused. Bu tit has been a long time and they have made lots of changes. I myself no longer use them because I got the new y axis rails and the autolevel so these are not needed for me but the cost for a slightly longer screw is minimal as compared to the benefit received from these if you are using the older y axis system.

I would highly suggest adding the first nut inside the lower piece as this will turn the loose screw into pretty much a fixed stud and make things work that much better.

JusticeDude is correct. There may have been a revision in screw length as my screws were orientated that same way JusticeDude was referencing, before I flipped them around, however when trying to print these off it is very apparent that the combined height of the parts, without the spring, is simply too high and will not work. I'll be getting some longer screws to remedy this.

On my Robo3D the head of the screw is on the bed side and the locking nut is under the rail. Is there a reason it's inverted in the diagram? (I haven't installed my levelers yet)

As far as I know my diagram fits most of the printbed setups out
there now the orientation of the screw is pretty muc VERY non critical
in the original setup on the printbed so the ROBO guys may have changed
it although I can not really come up with a reason that really makes
sense on a standard layout other than it makes it more difficult to
install this mod. In a completely static situation it does not matter as
long as it is tight it works but change from that and you will
immediately see the advantage of having the nut on top it is much easier
to tighten or loosen it because the original screw they used would not
rune easily in the rails so in effect it iwas locked in place and the
nuts could loosen or tighten it down VERY easily.
In another
iteration we found that the bolts used could in the newer printers would
spin easilyso it became problematic in any orientation.
That is
why I added the revision to this original mod. Now based on the last
bolt head down configuration I saw this revision made it a VERY stable
platform by following the last diagram you essentially turn what was a
loose screw into a locked in place threaded stud that made it easy to
adjust the nut again. In a nutshell I know thread the bolt from below
through the rail AND the lower printed piece and then lock it in place
with a nut so it will not spin at all the finish the assembly normally.
Putting on the spring and the upper piece and the bed and then
compressing the spring to put the nut on allows for the spring action to
force the bed against the bottom of the nut so tightening or loosening
will raise or lower that point on the bed.
Reversing the orientation should not pose any problem other than you MAY find it
difficult for the head of the bolt too slip into the rail as it usually
did.
ask away if you have any more questions

Thanks for the response.
What size nut and washer do I need for this?

Sorry to say that is diffcult to answer as I was able to get my very early on andthings have changed significantly
since I did mine but I would guess an m3 or m4 washer and nut. I take the entire bolts and nut to the hardware store and just match it.
Also one thing to remember I have gotten question about getting a longer screw you should not need to all you would have to do to ge the nut on is compress the spring a bit as you add the nut. The uncompressed spring could be longer but with just a slight compression it should still work easily.

Here's a picture for comparison of what my bolts look like. http://i.imgur.com/KLlo7A1.jpghttp://i.imgur.com/KLlo7A1.jpg
My bolt is shorter and spring is bigger than what you have in the your photos. It looks like I'll have to get some longer m4 bolts for this to work.

The nuts and bolts turned out to be m4 size.
I have everything now and I'm trying to install it but having a really tough time. The screw is definitely not long enough to go through all the extra parts you suggest, and even without them I can barely get the spring between the two caps squeezed tight enough to screw down. On top of that, having to align everything properly and work on the underside of the bed is going to add up to a huge headache (and neck and back ache).
Not trying to be negative here, as I'm sure it will be great once it's installed.

Something is not quite right then it is actually very easy to do
The two parts should easily slide into each other with the spring inside and should be able to be compressed with finger pressure if not something is of in your print as several people are using these without issue.
Procedure
Current: Bed is removed and only rails are present on frame
Step 1 Insert Screw through hole in rail corresponding to the hole in the bed
Step 2 Insert lower half of bed leveler onto screw
Step 2 Place small nut on threads and tighten it down securely -nut should be at the inside bottom of lower bed leveler
Step 3 Repeat 1 - 3 for all remaining holes in rails
At this point you have turned the screw basically into studs and they should not in any way be loose
Step 4 Place spring on threaded area of screw resting it on the nut inside the leveler
Step 5 Place upper bed lever piece on spring screw should just protrude from upper piece so it all stays together
Step 6 Repeat 4-5 for all corners
Step 7 Place bed on levelers aligning the screws with the holes
Step 8 Compress the spring assembly so screw protrudes from hole in bed and place a flat washer on the screw
Step 9 Place locking nut on screw securing it in place--It is a good idea to tighten the screw down so some threads protrude so you will have some area for adjustment
Step Repeat 8-9 for all corners
Adjustment is done based on a readings from a dial indicator and simply turning the lock nut will raise or lower the corner being worked on. The adjust can be done entirely from the top as the first nut put in place locks the screw solid so it should not turn

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