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lanyx

Makerbot 5th Gen Heated Print Bed (HPB)

by lanyx Jan 9, 2016
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can we just place the glass plate on top of it? or do we need the metal plate?

Hey, i dont know really much about electronic but can i use a mosfet instead of the Relais? I dont like the sound relais make :)

Do you sell these prebuilt?

I do have a k-type thermocoupler

I will update wiring when I get home tonight

Thank you so very much for your help

This is what I have so far plus all the cables
Power source: 12v 30a model: s-360-12
Solid state module: ssr-25- da
Relay: mah-s-112-c-3
Inkbird timer: s/n- 3259
Inkbird temp gauge: model number- itc-100vh
Pcb heatbed mk2b dual power
am I missing anything else?
and thank you for taking the time for me

Have you had the time to draw up the plans yet? Trying to get back to building the HBP

Have you had the time to draw up the plans yet. Trying to get back to building the HBP

Do you have a k-type thermocoupler to go with the Inkbird itc-100VH? Also you will need connectors for disconnecting the thermocouple, power to the heatbed and on/off switches (power to whole unit)?

I assume the timer is just to ensure that the unit only runs for the length of time you want to set. I could not find that part number online.

The SSR-25-DA is for controlling 110V AC resistive loads. Not 12V or 24V DC which is what would be needed for the MK heatbed. In my design, SSRs weren't really available economically so I just had it using the internal relay on the Inkbird for on/off. SSRs are MUCH better so a slightly different design will be required.

Will draw up the connections tonight with recommended changes.

Thanks!
Danny

Good day, Have you had the opportunity to draw up the connections with recommended changes?

DO you have an updated schematic with the upgrades included. I have been trying to figure it out but cant get to the point of hooking everything up. ie... I dont know how to hook up the timer or the other upgrades a video of the build would be awesome if possible thank you

I don't have a video as I built this over a year ago and have not had to modify it since. What all do you have exact part number wise and I can draw up a new schematic?

I hope I'm not just missing it, but what thermocouple do you use? Do they come in ratings or would any small one do?

Also, what is the second set of banana plug jacks on the left side of the front face for?

Just extra outputs for 12volts. Never have used them. :)

I wanted to thank you for this post and the clips. I had thought of doing this for a while, but your success gave me the courage to try it.
I have a little bit different setup, I'll list it here for others if they want to try.

Heated Pad with controller:
https://www.amazon.com/KEENOVO-Silicone-Printer-Evaporating-Controller/dp/B00WWLZSK2/ref=pd_sbs_328_11?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00WWLZSK2&pd_rd_r=SFBKHHMW29NTHB57KPT2&pd_rd_w=q4KwY&pd_rd_wg=8LB8g&psc=1&refRID=SFBKHHMW29NTHB57KPT2

Used a Aluminum/PCB board to adhere to the pad, (previous purchase when I was thinking of doing it)
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01BW9WD0C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Because of heat lose, I have to put the pad upto 140 to get the glass upto 120, but this is the printer printing a bunch of clips in ABS :-) -- working great!
https://ibin.co/3GpBxcnWA5NX.jpg

It also works great for PLA, (with a temp of 37). Thanks again!!

Awesome! I was thinking about taking a similar approach. Very convenient to have a heating pad that comes with pre-wired digital thermo-control.
Question though! It looks in your picture like you have the MakerBot build platform, the heating element, the Aluminum/PCB board, and then another plate which is covered in something blue (tape?). Could you describe your assembly and how it is held together? I see clips being used as well...

If you are asking me(?), the clips are from the original 3D model above. I followed that design but opted for the heated pad with integrated controller. You are correct in that I had the MB buildplate (without the top glass holder), the heated pad attached to an aluminium plate (which actually WAS a aluminium and PCB heater circuit) I had ordered prior when I was thinking of making my own heater/controller). I used this method for a while, but I ended up having some problems with the clips not holding the glass well enough and it moving so I no longer follow this method. I ended up removing the MB plate (4 screws at back) and drilled out holes through the metal and the MB and put computer standoffs to lift the glass to almost exactly the original level. This makes the platform very stable, and allows for levelling via MB as normal. https://pasteboard.co/H5ICk4E.jpg https://pasteboard.co/H5ICK1w.jpg -- so now its just MB, space, heatpad,aluminium PCB, and then the MB original glass plate (with the bluetape still on there) but really not needed.

Someone had asked if anyone had pre-built, well after I had made mine, I started to find some people doing them (but they are pretty expensive and making your own really isn't that hard) but here is a video example of one https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BXP7JW2gnlE

Thank you much. The only items are the MB platform, heater element, and the MB glass which is covered with painters tape. The MB glass and heater element are taped together using standard masking tape. In the 2 years I've used the printer, I've never redone the masking tape and it looks as new as when I put it all together. The clips are used to hold the glass/heater combo down against the MB platform. The original holder the glass was mounted to I removed all together. I would recommend going to solid state for the relay as the pricing has come down significantly even though my relays are still kicking perfectly. Good luck!

Actually, I was referring to 'IvanRaide's more "plug and play" version seen here.... https://ibin.co/3GpBxcnWA5NX.jpg ...and based of the parts included in their post above.
Still, I appreciate the info! I am trying to get into learning about computers, robots, electronics, etc. and am fascinated by the design you've provided.. though, admittably, a bit intimidated.
Simply buying a controllable heating pad and slapping it onto the bottom of a build plate does have its appeal! XD
We'll see tho!

Hey PurplePepperEater, not sure if you saw my reply above, but I talked about what I did/do (it really is simple) -- and mentioned a complete "just purchase" option which I won't really recommend unless money was not a issue (that complete one does look pretty nice!)

I have one of these printers at work and it is such a pain to make PLA stick. I was fed up and started a search and found your project. Thank you for posting it. When I get the chance, I am going to build one for my printer.

When you do, give me a shout on some enhancements based on my experience.

Hello, I built this just now but it keeps turn off and on. I was wondering if you ran into this as you made this and could give me a clue as to how to solve this?

How fast is it cycling? I've been using mine for about a year and it consistently cycles about every 45-60 seconds once warmed up to temperature. One thing to check if it is cycling fast is to check the dead band on the temp controller. The deadband was a bit small for mechanical relays on mine which is fully customizable. I've thought about going solid state since they are so cheap now but have had zero issues. Since it is mechanical relay based, you'd want there to be a dead band of about +/- 2° whereas with solid state the cycling is not an issue. The dead band is configured in the controller so that if you set the bed for 65°C, it will turn off at 67°C and back on at 63°C . Look for the setting to select the delta° or Hysteresis band for the high and low temperature points. For the Ink-bird, it uses a self-tuning capability. My settings away from defaults are at: HIAL=120° (sets alarm and turns off power supply if the heat bed exceeds), CtrL=0 (Originally did CtrL=3 to do self tuning), M50=71, P=284, t=110. Otherwise everything is at default.

It starts turning off and on while heating, it'll heat for about half a degree shut down the temp will still be rising and then it'll heat again and do it over and over until it reaches the correct temp.

What temp controller are you using? That is definitely incorrect as mine stays on until it reaches full temp. Can you provide the settings in the controller?

Im using the Ink-Bird model ITC-100RH, same controller you have linked. And I haven't messed with any of the settings so it should be at default.

Ah.. Good. Then you can just copy mine. Hold the "Set" button for 3 seconds to go to the settings menu. Keep hitting the "Set" button to cycle through each of the parameters. Set each of the below: HIAL=120° (sets alarm and turns off power supply if the heat bed exceeds), CtrL=0, M50=71, P=284, t=110. See if this helps any. The manual for the controller is at http://manualzz.com/doc/6563762/user-manual-itc-100-pid-temperature-controller.

Changed the settings to match yours, but it is still switching on and off starting around 47 degrees.

Could be a couple things. How do you have the temp probe connected to the print bed? Is it possible that it is sitting on a heater element or is it in the hole of the heater? is the temp probe the right type "K" thermocouple? Have you checked that the temp of the bed shown on the controller is accurate via an infrared therm or something. The error sounds like the probe is responding too quick as in it is seeing the temperature of the heater, not the print bed which would cause it to do something like you are describing.

If all is good above, Go ahead and run the self-tuning function shown in section 6.5. maybe something from the factory got set weird.

Also, you can launch the Self-Tuning function and see what impact that has. Look at section 6.5 of the manual for the details.

NICE ONE, i started my build, but did some minor changes, as i'm using a bigger bed :
https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01HM8RT8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
which is running at 24V (so even the power supply is 24V of course).

The PHB has aluminium on its upper side, do you recommend to print on this side (blue tape on the aluminium) or put a glass plate on the aluminium side?

rgds ax

I actually bought an aluminum plate to put on top of my heater at first and it worked perfectly fine. Just be sure to heat it evenly as it does warp a bit if not evenly heated. I only went back to the glass because I had it. I don't know if that model is thick enough to print on without warping.

Very cool! Should'nt users be getting the Inkbird RL version though?

Nicely done! I was thinking of the very same thing. Do you think there is a simpler way of doing this? IE Power supply 2004 lcd and a cheap reprap ramp 1.4 board for easier control and functionality?

I am interested in making a heated bed for my replicator 5. I want to print with Delrin (aka POM, aka Acetal). I have tried it already but it doesn't stick to itself well. It will go through the extruder though. I am looking into an all metal hot end but that may not be realistic for this printer.

Do you have any advice in this area? One thing that I noticed is that I don't see an option or an adjustment for the second layer of support. There are probably a lot of other issues too. I'm just getting into this problem.

Could you provide a buy list and qty to get this completely working
and photos if possible.
Thank you

vbonilla - Thank you for the interest in the MB HPB. In the original post, I included all the components required. What I have added since building this is a 110v digital timer so that I can set the HPB to run for 15/30/45/60/75 minute increments depending on the print I am doing. I have not switched to aluminum yet and are still using the yard sticks. I have been printing almost nonstop with up to 110° HPB temps. ZERO issues with the wood as I have checked several times and the wood looks brand new. For test prints I still print in PLA and all final prints I have been almost exclusively printing in ABS or PETG. I create my own quad drone designs and have found ABS to be the most resilient. The MB 5thGen is an amazing printer as I am the only one at an office with multiple printer brands that has near perfect success with 3D prints. If there is something more specific I can assist with, please let me know.

2 Things about this. (Great Hack By The Way)

1) I'm not sure about using wood directly on a heater.. There must be a better alternative..
2) I know you taped the wires up going through that bulkhead (4th Picture), but you really need to install a bushing. The tape will eventually fail if there is any movement in those wires.

Thank you for the feedback. I had already purchased some aluminum strips after a friend notified me of the same thing. I also plan to use rubber hose washers around the Thermocouple to hold it in place. Since I don't really plan to do ABS any longer, I am not cranking the heat up too much on the bed anyways. I really like PETG. All works are in continual improvement! :)