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Luke Skywalker's Lightsaber (Episode VI)

by CaseStudyno8, published

Luke Skywalker's Lightsaber (Episode VI) by CaseStudyno8 Jan 12, 2016

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12270Views 4024Downloads Found in Props

Summary

Here's Luke Skywalker's lightsaber from Return of the Jedi! Be sure to print two of the triangular indicator pieces, those are very small prints, I would suggest printing them at the same time as some of the larger pieces to let them cool between layers.

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Awesome model! Thanks for all your hard work. This (or your Kylo model) may be my first foray into 3D printing. I've got two questions for you:

1) What program or resources do you think is best for beginners to learn modeling?

2) Have you considered a slight modification to the emitter to make it accurate to TFA/TLJ? http://sethmsherwood.com/pretty/tfa.jpg

I'd start with a program like Blender maybe which I believe his free and there's a lot of resources on YouTube that can get you started learning the basics of 3d modeling.

I don't have any plans to modify this saber

Hi, I am designing a display stand for this right now, could you please tell me what diameter the pieces that you have your stands on and how far apart they are?

I believe those are about 1.5 inches in diameter. I'm not entirely sure how far apart they are. I stopped using this stands pretty quickly, but I'd highly recommend searching thingiverse for some cool models for inspiration like these:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1147822

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2342193

Star Wars Full Size Lightsaber Stand Customizable
Lightsaber Stand
Comments deleted.

The triangle indicator pieces seem to be giant when i open this design. i really like this design.

Hmmm, I downloaded that part and it opened at the correct scale for me in Cura. The file's units is in millimeters, if it was opened and your program thought it was in inches that may cause this problem.

How big is the largest piece? I have a 140 mm build capability. Thanks.

You're in luck! the biggest piece (the grip) is 132.74mm

Hey, nice work. I noticed that you mentioned that your models produced in SolidWorks lay flat. I noticed the same thing when I use SolidWorks for 3D model creation for 3D printing. The key I found is to create the model on the front plane in SolidWorks for vertical printing. Which of course goes against all model building norms for 3D CAD design. Again nice work and I hope this helps you in the future.

Thank you for the confirmation! I figured that might work but have never tried it, not sure if I can get used to building off of the front plane. I've been just rotating the STL's after export.

Yeah, I only build off the front plane when only plan on 3D printing the object. You do get used to it but, it takes a few models.

For the parts named solid. Are those 100 percent infill or something else?

I originally designed some hollow spaces into some pieces to reduce filament use, and someone later requested versions without these spaces so they could hollow them out themselves for electronics.

So the solid pieces will use a little more filament.

Fantastic models!

The triangle up and down buttons are about 1mm too large. I wound up just filling the holes with green and red paint.

The post that runs up from the top of the grip snapped off (the washers and other components wouldn't fit on (maybe .2mm too small)) so I had to stack and glue them.

The grip is too tall overall for a maker bot mini (I had to shorten it)

Hey, there kinda new to this.

First of all, really like this model and the attention to detail!

I'm wondering if you used glue to attach the pieces, if so, what type and where did you administer it?

Another question I have is what type of paint did you use and how did you get it so shiny? :)))

Thanks.

The tolerances on this saber are pretty tight, so I didn't use any glue. If some of your pieces are a little loose you could use any cyanoacrylate(CA) glue like from super glue or loctite around the cylindrical joinery,

I haven't used any real fancy paints on my sabers, the silver and black are Duplicolor automotive spray paints from an auto store (primed with an automotive spray primer as well) and the red, green and copper are just acrylics from a wal-mart.

What a gread 3D model!!! Thank you so much

You spell great rong but I agree.

Gee whizz, if you're going to correct someone else's spelling, at least make sure your own is error-free. Ironically, you managed to spell 'wrong' wrong!

Thank you! I'm glad you like it.

great build, my fav ive seen, just a quick question. bit new to all this....when i put your files into my software for my printer, i notice they are lay down flat...do they print ok like that, or would it be better to stand on there end?
the one i loaded first was the first file, the grip...and like i say its lay down....so better to stand up to print or not?
thanks

Thank you! You should stand it up, I'm sorry that's not clearer. Each piece really needs to be rotated by 90 degrees I think, I just realized this myself, for some reason either when I export out of Solidworks or upload the STLs here, they come in like that.

Wow thanks for the quick reply, should be starting this tomorrow, I'll let you know how it goes.
Only just had my printer a few weeks, loving the hobby, even git me into airbrushing to , one thing I can't find us a decent saber stand, tried a couple on here, but none came out so good.
Just painting and finishing another saber on here ....
But definitely giving this a go next....

Thanks again..appreciated.

what program did you use?

This was designed in SolidWorks and sliced in Cura

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