Dial calipers by angry_monk, metric, resized and plated

by VanessaE Jan 16, 2016
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Yeah, I have no idea how to put these together

I had to muddle my way though assembly also, using the original project as my guide. :-)

is there anywhere that i can get assembly instructions?

I'm afraid I don't have any instructions, no moreso than the Thing I originally forked. Sorry about that. It's pretty easy to assemble, though.

Thank you so much for your resizing work. <3

Why are there initials "BD" on it? Is it supposed to be there or can anyone remove it

I'm not sure actually. I assume those are angry_monk's real name initials.

To let to be aware I used your design as an embossed image on my

Vernier Caliper Box KEEP OFF message sliding lid version :-

I don't think I can use your design as a remix because I already use a remix but I acknowledge your design in my description and on my video

Vernier Caliper Box KEEP OFF message sliding lid version Design :-

: Thank You

Vernier Caliper Box KEEP OFF message sliding lid version.

That's fine with me, though it's angry_monk's design so it's up to him. All I did was scale and re-plate the parts. :-)

can you post a link to get parts separately one piece broke and i want to be able to print just that piece

I never kept it as separate pieces, but if you your slicer to "split" the plate, you'll get them. Slic3r can do this.

This is super cool. Great job tweaking the files. Sorry it doesn't come out perfect - blame the gears. They need a really precise printer. Even the polyjet printer I used wasn't perfect. I could get the calipers to back drive properly only after some break in (dry) and then applying the right grease (I used Vaseline).

Actually, a large part of the imperfection is just due to the depth stick being wrongly-sized - for some reason, it came out too small, and I didn't bother to re-scale it. As such, it doesn't hold the carriage square against the main body, so the pinion that drives everything is not held against the rack gear, which causes it to skip steps.

That, and I hadn't yet gotten my printer well-dialed in when I printed this, so that pinion gear ended up kinda weak - not enough infill inside the teeth.

I'd like to redo the model at some point (or you could ;-) ) such that it's 1 cm between major marks, but without reducing the overall size of the apparatus or the "resolution" of the dial. A suggestion along those lines: when re-modeling it, also cut larger, deeper teeth into the gears if possible - the bigger gears afforded by my upscaled version of your model are already easier to print, but there's enough side-to-side play between any two that sometimes they don't mesh (the large gear on the pinion gear's axle not mating well with its small counterpart on the middle pair, for example). Deeper, bigger teeth would help to remedy that.

Can you possibly give every individual piece its own STL file? It will print much more accurate that way. Thank you!!!

You should be able to just split the model to achieve that.

I am attempting to print your model now. 01/23/2016 3:13 pm Utah.
I am hoping my printer has the accuracy and your model is good.

Printing it wasn't much of a challenge once I got my printer properly calibrated, but the size makes it less useful than it could be (3 cm between major marks plus 20-step dial scale for minor marks = ...erm...hard to read it :-) )

about time... Very well done, thanks!

You're quite welcome :-) There's still a couple things that need done though. A, the depth gauge is messed up (it's neither Imperial nor metric, and it's too narrow to fill the width of the cavity in the main body - probably the whole thing needs scaled up some). And B, while the major marks are at 3 cm, there are only ten minor marks between them, making them ...well not metric. ;-) So really the scale needs to be made to 1 cm major marks, and 1 mm minor marks if there's enough "resolution" to do it.