The Scan-O-Tron 3000

by fredini, published

The Scan-O-Tron 3000 by fredini Aug 5, 2013
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The Scan-O-Tron 3000 by fredini is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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Its here- The second half of my full body 3D scanning setup is ready to be shared with the world! Building upon my Scan-O-Tron Turntable v.2.0 for Full Body 3D Scanning (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:729923 ), this 3D Scanning rig greatly improves the quality of full body scans captured with a Microsoft Kinect using ReconstructMe or Skanect software. I have scanned over 5000 people with this rig (in groups from 1-4 people) and get consistently great results that can be cleaned up in just moments using Netfabb basic.

In additions to the instructions posted here, you can also see Make Magazine's project build instructions here:

BOM on Inventables (I earn 10% royalties if you buy your materials from this link, so please support the project by buying your parts here):

Kickstarter Campaign

This thing was published as the culmination of my Coney Island Scan-A-Rama Kickstarter campaign http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/fredini/coney-island-scan-a-rama

Special thanks to our open Hardware Backers: Rachel Uwa, Chris Thorpe, Chee Yue, Matt Griffin, Marco Barnig, Paul R, Theron, Trowbridge, Dillon Zwick, John Dimatos, B Alan Eisen, Seth Madej, Tony Buser, Bridget Dearborn, Victor Bourdon, Sergey Key, Nick Blackledge, Opal Lechmanski, Mike and Brenda Sessums, Gael Langevin, Marianne R. Petit, RFimages, Britt, solids2go.com, Mike Kaltschnee, Edith Harari, Ross Tsukashima, and more.

Video link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6eKOEgXxdUw
Video link: http://youtu.be/9ZVc-CpVLrs


See the Make Magazine project build instructions here:


I bought my materials from Inventables. The list of hardware is listed on their site with one click to add it to your shopping cart ( I earn 10% if you buy your materials from this link):

Additionally, you will need:

Assembly Instructions:

1) Print parts- I printed mine 100% solid. You will need 2 makerslide endcaps
2) Assemble the two 3D printed parts of the hinge- I used a piece of 3mm filament as the pin.
3) Glue together the two parts of the guillotine drop piece and place it on the hinge.
4) Drill the back of the smaller hinge part and bolt it to the carriage plate
5) Splice the 1800mm and a 600mm section of Makerslide together.
Assemble the cart
6) Cut four 200mm segments of aluminum extrusion and attach the Makerslide to the 1800mm piece of extrusion using the angle brackets. Fashion a base with 2 lengths of 560mm aluminum extrusions and one 46mm Extrusion.
7)Use the 2 20x20mm lengths as diagonal supports.
8) Assemble filament spool with the "bearing discs", and mount it on the threaded rod.
9) Put skateboard bearings into Rod Bearing 1 and 2, then mount them onto the extrusion at about waist height
9) Mount the carriage on the vertical rail and attach the string on it.
10) Put the endcaps on the tops of the rig and then put the clothesline pulleys in them. Thread the string over the top of the rig and back down to the filament spool.
11) Put several rubberbands around the two sides of the hinges and mount the kinect onto the hinge (yes its a little frankenstein, but I am using rubberbands to mount the kinect here. I will update this part soon with a more graceful solution)

You are now ready to begin scanning. The video should get you started. Look for updates to this project coming soon.

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Good afternoon. What software is used?

Try reading the description.
ReconstructMe or Skanect

Nice rail! This design is very pretty and professional looking. Why not just make a stand using two pieces of tall PVC pipe and stick a slightly larger piece of pipe over the long piece for a carriage, then drill holes for a drop pin to anchor the Kinect at different positions? Seems like it would be cheaper that way.

Good idea- Maybe you should make it as a derivative?

Just bought the materials thru your inventables link. Can't wait to get this and the turntable made.

This is a great idea, my build is coming along nicely if a little expensive getting parts here in the UK. How do you anchor the cable drum in place once the weight of the Kinect is on the scanner mount?

What do you mean by Cable Drum- attaching the string to the filament reel?
I tied the string around the reel and used some gaffer's tape around that to prevent it from spinning.

Filament reel. exactly so, good old gaffer tape is always a solution, I was just fishing in case someone had an elegant way of keeping the scanner from free falling when not attended

If you look at the detail photo of the filament reel, you will see how I added a cabinet knob on the reel to crank it. You can loop the string around the knob to hold the reel in place. This is what I do to suspend it at any height.

Ah, MS is releasing a new version of the Kinect for Windows shortly that has a USB3 plug on it. It should work a treat.

Has anyone had a look at the new Kinect sensor that comes with the XBOX-ONE? I'm wondering whether the resolution and or scanning speed might be increased?

I know that the ReconstructMe team is developing an update based on the new Kinect, but it lacks a USB plug and currently there's no software options available to work with it.

What kind of connector is on the Kinect sensor that you are plugging into the Mac in the photos? I didn't know you could do that or that it worked with a Mac. Cool project.

="thingiverse-48e7000c9e590e581b8dbcc464637d3f:disqus" href="http://disqus.com/thingiverse-48e7000c9e590e581b8dbcc464637d3f/fredini

A few questions if you don't mind. Thanks for the schematics to build this by the way. Can a high res web cam or the Playstation eye be used in place of the Kinect? What would you suggest to get the best possible resolution on the prints? Multiple scans?

Thanks for taking the time to read and respond.

I have used Kinect, Primesense and 3D Systems Sense sensors, but you can attach other types of sensors to the rig. However, I have no knowledge or experience with the Playstation Eye and cannot advise on that. You will need to find software that works with it as well.

The resolution is pretty good and about as good as can be gotten with these type of IR scanners. Scaling a 6' human down to 6" and printing on a desktop 3d printer, some details are lost, but overall the quality is great given the tech powering it. The whole point of the rig is to get a complete mesh in one scan that will clean up quickly and easily. I don't understand the question about multiple scans. It is what it is with one scan. A second scan would never align and would be a lot of additional effort to merge with the first.

Thanks for the addition info. I look forward to building this and having fun with it.

The multiple scan was more along the lines of letting the imaging camera to get another pass at the model (2 or 3 full turns) to refine the detail. but it could always be touched up in an editing program. Thanks again for responding.

A full scan is typically 2-4 rotations to capture the full body. The danger with longer scans is that the subject moves and you get multiple nested shells which means a messy and noisy scan.

Making one of these for our University, since we have a 3D printer for students to use we are now making a large 3D scanner to go along with it. We have all the pieces printed, and now for putting it all together. I'll keep you updated how it goes and will post pictures of the finished product to!

Nice! I'd like to work on an auto locking chain drive for the turntable this spring. Not totally happy with the wheel rotation mechanism... But if you buy the vertical rail from my BOM on Inventables, I'm supposed to earn 10%: https://www.inventables.com/projects/the-scan-o-tron-3000-full-body-3d-scannerhttps://www.inventables.com/pr...

Do you use the lite or pro reconstructme software? Also how do you have it setup on your Mac?

I run Windows 7 under Bootcamp with ReconstructMe QT (Now known as PRO).

why you don't use skanect when you're using a mac? It's much better in handling and you can make your datas direct printable with only a few seconds.

I do own and use Skanect sometimes, but I find the ReMe process to be much faster when I'm scanning lots of people in rapid succession. Skanect also has a much bigger file size, due to storing so many images and depth data. Either way, the mesh needs post processing in Netfabb to be printed.

what soft are you using? Thank for answer

ReconsructMe primarily, also Skanect and 3D Systems Sense.

Hi Fredini, really cool project. I'm thinking of replicating this rig for a scanning display at my University. Could you give me a basic idea of the total cost?

Personally, It has cost me around $500 for the whole thing; turntable, vertical rail, kinect, foot pedal etc.

Yes- Have used both Skanect and ReconstructMe, but still prefer ReMe.

This is great! Thanks for sharing. Have you tried Skanect with your setup?

for the Scanner holder -- do you recommend using support and 100% infill?

I printed all parts with 100% infill( Make sure its rectilinear not hexagonal infill!), and no support.

I took the plunge and ordered the parts to build this. Thanks for the parts list. The biggest issues I have run into with Reconstructme is cable management when I am trying to walk around someone or something to scan it. With this and the turntable, it should be a breeze. Thanks for your work and congrats on the Kickstarter campaign.

Please note my update on the lazy susan thing. I am looking for advice on creating a braking mechanism for that when no power is applied.

If you use a worm gear for the lazy susan it would not rotate unless the motor were spinning.

I'm working on a 2.0 version of the wheel and any advice on a specific piece of hardware for this would be greatly appreciated! Send links!


This is a small cheap worm gear motor

search ebay for worm gear motor and you will find many. Watch for the power required and the rpm you believe you will want. This one is 12 volt and 0.3 amp you should be able to run it from a wall wart.
A worm gear motor will only spin if the motor is turning

Aside from the actual motor, what gears would you have interfacing? I will need something in the area of 12" diameter under the turntable.

I keep thinking about a rubber wheel spring loaded against the bottom of the turntable? If you design it adjustable you could make quick rpm changes by moving the wheel and motor more to the inside or outside of the turntable? I like the way you designed your other turntables you are much more expert in this than i am i would only suggest this type motor to drive because it also adds the break function you are looking for.

I am going to build a much smaller turntable and ill think about the drive and share it with you. I am having a hard time envisioning how much torque you will require to spin multiple people as you do....

My little turntable will most likely be dirt simple. I believe i can make something that will work with a small drill motor. It wont have the breaking function but i think it will have allot of torque and easily adjustable speed control.