COREXY XL Printer (X3D XL COREXY by Unix)

by Fireflynj, published

COREXY XL Printer (X3D XL COREXY by Unix) by Fireflynj Jan 24, 2016
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Remix of http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:730199

Made some improvements/changes and will add anything new here.
  • Modified box dwg to use 12mm (11/32") plywood, removed LCD window and bolt slots. outside box dimensions are 408mm W x 351mm D x 386 H, print area 200mm x 200mm x 213mm Z.
  • Center carriage - 4mm hole to install PFTE tube from hob-bolt into J-head to hold flexible filament from bending, strengthened motor mount.
  • Left and Right carriage - modified to allow 8mm rod go in deeper, but now the pair of X 8mm rods needs to be longer (328mm long on XL box) also removed the rib that separated the pair of bearings, and I just put a dab of RTV silicone on it, I wasted a lot of time sanding the original one off trying to get it to fit
  • right extruder - spring mount modified to fit the above center carriage.
  • extruder arm - added a cup to hold PFTE tube in place, resized width for it to center bearing over filament better.
  • bracket - a pair of these to hold LCD frame on edge of 12mm plywood
  • Moved Arduino/RAMPS and power supply to back of box, easier to clean debris in box and looks nicer. Personal preference, put it wherever you want!
  • redesigned the filament spool holder, 31mm diameter
  • open pulley.scad file with free OpenSCAD where you can customize its size for nice tight fit over bearing

To Do

  • make a different LCD frame bracket to hold higher off top edge of 12mm plywood or install longer ribbon cable to bring to front edge.
  • adjustable Z end switch flag
  • enclosure for Arduino/RAMPS with fan mount.
  • adjustable spring tensioner on filament feed

I bought the electronics from http://www.sainsmart.com/3d-printing/3d-printkits.html

Print Settings




.25 to .35


3+ perimeter,
would be a good idea to print hotend mounts in ABS

How I Designed This


Use DesignSpark Mechanical for .rsdoc files
123d Design



Print all idle pulleys instead, the GT2 belt does not ride smooth on the printed teeth pulleys.

Side cut outs are optional on case, or make plexiglass windows to keep heat in box for printing ABS.



  • Easier for first time builders
  • Belt on Z table lowers cost, but also slips or jumps if it hits the table due to newbie errors, but better than breaking the glass.
  • Wood absorbs vibrations, quieter than aluminum or plastic.


  • Belt on Z, can slip or stretch, only good for going down, inconsistent going up.
  • 8mm rods are not perfect, making nozzle gap from print surface inconsistent.
  • Linear bearings do not ride smooth, could do bushings instead.

Possible Improvements

  • Leadscrew on Z table, slow, strong and consistent (careful, will break glass tables)
  • lighter/smaller extrusion stepper motor
  • V-Slot rails instead of 8mm rods and Linear bearings, I had nothing but trouble with Linear bearings binding and having too much play.

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Hi! Do you have the stl for the fan shroud/mount? Did you do it? Thank you.

This may be a good Z axis upgrade

The axis Z, for CoreXY, or similar.
by Venik

Hi, in the pictures there is as far as I can see yellow (adapter?!) plate under Z and X or Y endstop. Do you perhaps have the model for it? I am also using regular endstops with two parallel mounting holes. Thanks for sharing!

sorry for the delay, I couldn't find the file, It was a piece of cutting board I had milled out using a dremel on a CNC table.

Comments deleted.

New change, the Left and Right carriage - modified to allow 8mm rod go in deeper, making it stronger, but now the pair of X 8mm rods needs to be longer (328mm long on XL box) I also removed the rib that separate the pair of bearings, and just put a dab of RTV silicone, I wasted a lot of time sanding the original one off trying to get bearings to fit.

Hi im just got one build !!!!

but struggling to home X axis all it does is its homes X but starts to move in Y then jams

what causing this?


Hi Darozas,
I struggled when I got to this point too. make sure your software is configured correctly, Directions of stepper motor movement and then the end switches for X and Y are on the Zero side (X to the left & Y to the front). change one setting at a time and retry and always be ready to turn power off if it all goes wrong.
do 'Home X' is carriage moving towards the left? you can always trip the end switch with your finger to make sure it stops instead of letting it jam. if it keeps going then you may need to change end switch settings.
Now you said it moves in Y then jams? does this happen when you do 'HOME X' and not doing 'HOME ALL' , is it jamming during it's travel or hitting the end? If HOME X is good, then do HOME Y, and edit settings to get it going correct direction and end switch responds.

Thanks got it runin endstop was the problem replaced boom works now.

But it realy bad noise wise ??
Runs really loud

bearings? did it move smooth when you moved it by hand before you put belt on?
then the stepper motors are making the noise, you need to adjust the drivers, most likely lower.
my motors were getting very hot running bigger projects (70 degrees C), Then I borrowed a very precise meter (reading #.##) and adjusted them, now it gets just warm (50 degrees C) and much much quieter.

Hello , and could you share the printer firmware

I uploaded the firmware, also checkout the Repetier-Firmware configuration tool for version 0.91 Rev 8
I did not update to .92 yet

Hello, is the print volume larger than the original X3D printer (Thing 730199)? If so, could you share the print volume? Thanks!

I can use the entire 200mm x 200mm glass surface I have, well almost
Y axis I get 197, but might get a little more if I move the endstop switch.
X axis has plenty of space, If I put a wider glass in I could get 240mm, but with my fan 220mm
Z 213mm

with the extra X space I thought about doing dual extrusion.

Someone made a great improvement on the Z axis http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1307707

Corexy X3D XL bed support bearings fi 12mm
by maglo18

Hi! Could you re-upload the drawings? Autocad don't open them. Thank you!

Sorry about that, I am using QCAD, I checked and re-uploaded file, I found I had layers hidden.
I also uploaded front.dxf , this is where I removed the LCD window.
QCAD says DXF files are format: R21 (2007) hope this helps.