Flashforge Creator Pro Glass Adjustable Bed Bracket (MOD)

by omegatron Jan 27, 2016
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I've printed these with PLA and it printed perfectly. However, the screw initially screws on tight but than after a few prints...it's gets stripped. Now it just keeps turning and not tightening the bracket. Will ABS fix this issue?

Why are the pins Hollow ?
Surely this makes them quite weak?

Tried ABS, but they got soft @110c bed temp overtime. Printed these in PC-ABS and now it's not an issue. These do work great. Did you use a particular thread for these?

Best corner brackets I have ever used. I have done at least 100 prints without my glass shifting and no adjustment to them since first installed. Thanks for the great brackets!

I was looking at the rear corner pieces and the bolt seems to be off a fair amount. I may try to just drill a new one but when I put it on the bed it has a gap between each side and the bed. Is this intentional or larger glass? Do you normally use the screw setup on all four corners? Just wondering.

I find having the screw setup on just 2 corners works well - it holds in place and also allows plenty of adjustment for different sized glass plates

Maybe you misunderstood me! The blank corner pieces have the hole drilled so the edges of the corner piece are no way near the bed. There is about a 4 mm gap on each side. The hole needs to move more toward the middle of the piece where now it is right out on the tip (corner point). Easy enough to drill a new hole.
Right now I am using some of my solid pieces that account for differences in glass size vs. bed size and it is still tricky to get the thing aligned ok!. In one dimension the glass is larger than the bed and in the other it is a little smaller. I was thinking to try the adjustable setup on all four corners and see what happens.

Would you mind either making an adjustment or sharing a design file? my glass is 3mm thick so I either need to modify the design to have a slightly shorter top lip so the glass bed is the same height as the bracket or I need to print a shim which I can do but I feel like modifying the design for 3mm glass vs the standard 5mm glass is the best long term solution. excellent design though I love it!!!

*** after looking at this closer really on my printer what needs to happen is the notch the bed and heating element sit in needs to be ~2mm shallower so the bottom edge of the top lip will actually sit flush on the original metal bed.

I went ahead and made some brackets based on the measurements of my bed and glass and its working beautifully! Thanks again!

So I've been having trouble finding an answer to this question and I've been holding off buying a glass bed until I can get it. I'm hoping you can help since I'm planning to print this design to hold the bed. Question: Can you still use these when using a heated bed? I do all of my prints with the bed heated and I can see how this could be an issue. I never heat above 105ºC and I assume this item needs to be printed with ABS for exactly this reason, but still, it's right against the heat. Would it be ok?

My prints run at maximum bed temp of 110ºC so that's the highest I can vouch for but yes that's the reason I recommend printing in ABS and I've been using mine for about 8 months without having to replace.

Thanks! I'll get them printed today.

This doesn't make sense to me. If I put the screw part on and tighten the bed bolt then the corner piece wont slide on. It hits the bed. If I leave the screw piece loose, slide on the corner piece then tighten down the bed bolt it pinches the corner piece so it doesn't move. If I leave the bed bolt loose enough so the corner piece will move then everything is loose.

You slide the corner piece on and then tighten the vertical screw+nut using an allen key from the top.

Once this is secure (not tight but not loose) then you should be able to slide the corner piece in and out (screwing on the 3d printed nut to prevent it from coming off).

The screw for the bed won't go anywhere because the 3d printed screw is holding the nut captive and the corner in turn is holding the 3d printed screw in place.. make sense?

The problem is that the heating element is not tight to the bed on the corners in this case. In order to move the corner piece I have to leave the bolt loose or it might as well be a stationary corner.
Thanks for the reply and nice design but not working for me

You could possibly add an additional nut after the original nut that holds the bed corners. This would push the corner pieces down a little but there should be enough height in them they would still work as intended - or could be slightly extended to service this requirement.

I'll take a look at that, it gives me an idea. I think if I can space the screw part down enough so it can be tight but not completely pinch the corner piece I could eliminate the looseness. The problem I was running into is that vibration from certain prints is causing just enough for the corners to loosen slightly and allow a small shift in the glass plate.
Thanks for the info.
For the time I went ahead and built my own corner brackets but I do like this concept and will explore some more.

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For the blank corners, the screw hole and corner don't match up it seems. With a screw in, the corner sits a few millimeters away from the corner of the bed.

The adjustable corners work great! I bought them to replace the corners that came with the Makersome glass bed kit and they're way better.

It was intended to be a fixed one so you would just adjust at one place instead - IE print out one fixed and one adjustable to work together - I just wanted to give some wiggle room so it wouldn't hit anyones bed. :-)

Do you use a glass bed that's larger than the build plate? If I used a fixed corner and an adjust able corner on the opposite side, the adjustable corner will bottom out and the glass plate will not be secure.

It's not a big deal though, I've been using adjustable corners on opposite ends and I have been super happy with them, and they allow me to center the bed very well and hold it down tight.

What are the dimensions of your glass bed? I've gotten a few from Flashforge that varied by a 1mm or so and so I'll need to make minute adjustments to make my beds fit snugly.

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I just made this. It seems it'll work pretty well. I like that it clamps the glass horizontally and is below the glass surface. The only thing I'm not a big fan of is that it utilizes the existing nuts underneath the heating plate in a way that you can't tighten them down fully. Because there is a hexagonal inset in the printed screw and the screw needs to come out diagonally from the build plate, you can't fully tighten the metal nut down onto the printed screw.
Some advice for printing: you only need supports for the corner piece. I wouldn't use the one with the tapered bottom, the squared one works fine. I printed 4 sets: one for each corner. A drop of 3-in-1 oil helps the screw. we'll see how it holds up to the heat over time.

Thanks for the constructive comments! The one with the tapered bottom was the original piece and I also find it's easier to go with the squared so I think I'll end up just removing it. A 5mm~ shim would probably go nicely as well right?! I'll get onto this when I have some spare time.

Regarding getting it tightly mounted: I would recommend removing any kapton tape etc from the corner of your bed allowing access to the top of the bolts so they can be fully tightened, which should resolve the issue you're seeing with not being able to tighten them fully from the base. The hex insert in the screw piece should act as the wrench while an allen key in the top will tighten the piece.

After you've finished this, then slide the clips on and put the glass in place and you should be fine.

Let me know if I'm missing something though!

Regards - Andrew@Fabricat3D

Well I feel stupid. Yes, I hadn't taken off the surface covering yet and I can see the tops of the screws (which I assumed were embedded). Therefore, the screws can be tightened just as you describe. It would be helpful to have pictures of the top and bottom of that screw as well as have some limited installation instructions. I'll upload some of my own when I get to it. Thanks for your design!

Is this designed for 1/4" glass?

As long as the glass is thicker than 3.5 mm, it should work since it clamps from the sides. Make sure you print a proper z-stop adjustment piece.

Great work. The glass cutter at Lowes was unable to cut a 6"x9" piece of glas, was off by 1/4-1/8th and this did the trick.

Glad to hear it! :-)

180 degree flip with 30% infill and supports did it for me. Thanks for the design. Now my prints stay still and my wings nuts do not come loose. Perfect

No Matter what i do i cant get this to print. The extruder tip grabs the print once it prints supports material and pulls up the print. Im not sure what the purpose of the curve on the bottom is but it would be much easier to print with out it

They were part of the original design I remixed but I've just uploaded a squared off version that's easier to print.