Loading
Pergo

Pergo Robo3D Upgrade, NeoCeram Glass and 600 watt(110v) heater

by Pergo Jan 28, 2016
Download All Files

Thing Apps Enabled

Please Login to Comment

i was thinking about switching out the main power supply with this 1000watt one and doing your awesome bed upgrade. What do you think?

Are you using a separate or new power supply?

it's a 600 watt heater at 110 volt so there is no power supply, it's AC line voltage. A solid state relay has it's +/- feed from what was connected to the original bed, this is used the switch the 110v on and off.

I’m still confused. I don’t need to upgrade the power supply?
“1250 watt APC UPS“ what does this mean in your post then. Thank you I ordered all the parts and they’ll be here in a bit just making sure I do everything right

Thanks for the tip Pergo. I'm new to 3d printing having just bought my first. A used Robo 3d .. with a broken print bed. Ordering a NeoCeram plate now ;)

the Neoceram does chip more easily. I'd recommend that you let items cool rather than snapping them off while warm. But I still Love the Ceramic much better.

Would it be possible to see a more organized wiring schematic.
I have a few chips in my print bed, and may want to upgrade to this, it seems like a great deal.

Pergo, thanks for the info.
I'm going to install the same heater on my D-Bot. Did you use an inline fuse with this heater? If so, what size did you go with? With the draw when starting up, I don't see a standard 10A fuse being enough.

Thanks

I didn't fuse it but... 600 watt at 120 volt is 5 amp and double that is 10 amp. I'd try the 10 amp.

I didn't fuse it but... 600 watt at 120 volt is 5 amp and double that is 10 amp. I'd try the 10 amp.

This is too narrow.
You need at least 225x300 to get even heat on the entire print surface.

This is the reason why i dont print ABS. Stock heat sticker is only 200x200. -10% its not covering entire print bed, not even the outlined area.

With the stock X carriage I can't really print anything wider than 220m. but I have the E3Dv6 hot end that is a little bit larger. I would not go back the the Hexagonal! So I get the entire area heated.

Pergo, great finds. I bookmarked the glass supplier. Considering the new bed from Robo is $89 wo shipping, this upgrade isn't too far off for something custom. Are you just having the glass plate fit on your new y axis ends by just freely sitting on them? No magnets like the stock?

http://store.robo3d.com/collections/parts/products/replacement-heated-borosilicate-glass-bed

BTW, do you have something on your y axis pillow blocks? One of the pics look like there is something on them.

Yes, using my 330mm ends if fits snugly and held very firmly it almost "snaps" into place. Very stable. Did you print the ends yet? Installed? I would love to see the results. If you haven't yet this make sense why your asking about the magnets, Once you use it you why see why I'm not going the magnet route. I have actually turned my printer on it's side many times and the glass does not come out*, it's held firmly. I have months of daily use on these ends and have NO desire to ever see the stock ends. WIth this glass upgrade, I removed the bed stabilizers I made (see my created things). I now use the old 8mm rods as part of the back scratcher someone posted on Thingiverse.

*DISCLAIMER: the glass is expensive, do the right thing. take the glass out if you put your printer on it's side!