Tony Stark's Arc Reactor

by Skimbal Feb 15, 2012
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To be honest, I never understood the whole voltage-current-resistor thing. I know what each of them is but I cant work with it so I need some help here. Have installed 10 white 5mm LEDs in the ring, eight white LEDs in the main crystal and one blue LED in the main crystal. all of them are soldered in a parallel circuit. I later want to use a 9V battery block to power the thing.

My problem: What resistors do I use? I also kinda messed up because I lost anything that contains information about what the LEDs can handle so I guess one needs to stick to average values.

tl;dr What resistors do I use?

can someone upload a video to youtube and shoot me the link cause a have NO idea how to assemble this and what parts i should print white and what i should print black

what size screws did you use?

why not have one cap and, in the instructions, say "print 10 caps?"

Comments deleted.

I managed to repair all the files make them fit together. I uploaded the repaired files here, and also added references to other models that work with Skimbal's original design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2069812.

Tony Stark's Bluetooth Controlled Arc Reactor
by balassy

For people who have the same problem as me with some holes filled for Upper_Center.stl and Main_Crystal_PLA.stl.

I found that is due to auto fixing problem on my slicing configuration in Cura.

Go to Expert > Expert settings > Fix problems > Uncheck option A

I'm having some issue with Upper and lower center, they are both printed filled up. Tried to fix with Cura by unchecking option A but I'm stuck at this point (same problem with lower_center). Any advice please?


Do you have any other "fix problem" option checked ? :/

Retried unchecking option b, it came out well!
Thanks ;)

Comments deleted.

Could any body give me some advice please as when I put the STL file into Cura the objects only have one layer thanks everybody.

How do you wire it without wires exposed extremely? Thanks

What size led do you use? 3mm or 5mm?

Sorry forgot to mention this is a great model none the less! I'll be remixing a smd ring for it soon!

Just a heads up, the outer diameter should be 75mm to be "Movie Accurate" i.e. this needs to be scaled to 69.5 percent. It is an Amazing model! If your looking for a movie accurate Vibranium model, I made one that beats all the other competition that I will probably be posting in the future.

Thanks a lot for this simba!
Just got a question, maybe someone else can answer possibly?

I started to print the pieces on my ultimaker 2 at work, came back the next day and a lot of the holes are being filled over?
Can't seem to stop it printing where it shouldn't, never had this problem, before. CURA shows the holes as they should be.

Same problem for me, i tried to save the model again with Cura, but Octoprint fill most of the hole in Upper_Center piece :/

It sound like an issue with errors in the mesh. Try running the model through Netfabb's auto repair feature and reprinting.

Is there any chance of getting one of the caps in a separate file? I lost one and only want to print a single cap. It would be appreciated!

You can go into Cura and separate the files into singular pieces

How are you guys printing the caps? It comes up in Repeteir as an upside down U but I'm worried that it will take a ton of support (that won't clean up well) to print. Flipping seems the best option but the ends will have the same problem. Anyone have a tip on how to do this?

I printed it as is on my Lulzbot Mini and Cura using supports. The supports that it added within the "upside down U" came out with only a little bit of fiddling. I just dug at it a little with a pair of needle nose pliers.

Stick the stl in 123d flip it 180* and export new stl file. Or if you use cura rotate in that. Simples

I used netfabb to fix the crystal problem

Comments deleted.

Why the elements and .skp file seems different? Support_Cage was changed after giving us the .stl files? it has less sharp edges on .skp file

You may be seeing differences in the smoothing settings in SketchUp. Alternately you may be seeing the difference between a triangulated stl file, where every face must have 3 sides, and a native SketchUp the where a face may have any number of sides.

I used 10% honeycomb infill and it turned out fine.

How much infill? 20% ? 50%? 100%?

What infill ratio should I use on each of these pieces?

thanks for the great files... I printed all the parts except the caps.. I cannot for the life of me get them to slice or print, it always says unknown slicer...I am sure you used the same for the other parts... ran the files in netfab...and still no luck...do you know why this is happening...thanks...

I haven't encountered that error before. Have you tried slicing something else? Could it be an issue with the software configuration?

How fill density (%) are crystal ring and main crystal?

I am having the same problems trying to slice these files!!!????

what gage wire did you use ?

help with the lights. what kind, how to wire. thanks

Is bleeding after step 7 normal? printing now. will post pics when done.

Epic Comment! hahaha

Hi, the skp file is an old one...can you upload an actual sketchup file? I have problems to slice the main crystal because of some holes...netfabb will close ALL holes, so the big one in the middle won't exist any more ;-)

How did do you attach the center crystal to the support cage?

I've been having similar issues with Slic3r, it seems to be crashing when I try to process the parts. Skeinforge managed to slice it and so far I've printed the upper and lower ring. The lower ring came out pretty good, but the upper ring didn't come out nearly as well as yours in the picture. Ive got a lot of gaps between the oval holes lining the outside of the upper ring and the perimeter. Not enough fill maybe? What were your settings when you sliced it? What slicing software did you use?

Slic3r keeps crashing on the crystal ring, it also gives an error as it loads it as "Input file contains a hole near edge 0.0-1.0".

I just ran into this site and was floored to see these designs, I was wondering do these designs have dimensions? I would love to machine these out of the material as the original props.

The main crystal is showing up with a bunch of errors. Any way to fix this? Im building this right now. (Printing with BFB 3d Touch)

Do you think clear blue PLA will work for the Main Crystal and crystal ring?

Is there a way to print individual Caps? One or two of mine got messed up in printing, and I don't want to print another whole tray of them.

I like how the wiring photo is vaguely movie accurate. :)

I've tried to load this in slic3r, the file is 1kb (I guess that's wrong).

And Pronterface doesn't display any lines.

Help? :P

Awesome, is everything black except the crystal ring? And is the ring white, or something else?

Finally got mine all printed!! Ended up with 28 LEDs, it's VERY cool.

The ring an main crystal are printed in clear PLA. They can also be printed in natural ABS.

Everything else is black

cool, I've got natural ABS, the LED should still shine through eh?

what gauge wire did you use

We'd appreciate some juicy (sort of) tutorial details and pictures of phases (7) and (8)...

I was with Skimbal when he made this... in a cave. WITH A BOX OF SCRAPS!

So that's how he got out of our cave! I've been wondering that.