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Shipbrook

Star Trek Original Series - Hand Phaser Type I - Midgrade

by Shipbrook Feb 8, 2016
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hey Shipbrook,
I've been in awe over your model for a while now and i am in the process of printing both the p1 and p2 Phasers. this turned into a bigger project as time when on mostly printing, finishing wet sanding then then not liking the results and discarding it all of this was happening while im trying to dodge other responsibly like high school :) i decided to make molds of the emitter and cast ti in clear resin which is still a WIP. as the (hopefully) final p1 body gets printed out i had the thought to make both the thumb-wheel and P1 emitter on a lathe out of aluminum or brass! i was wonder if you could shed some insight into of you deign the thumb-wheel as i see its not a perfect half circle.
so I guess my two questions are...

how is the thumb-wheel designed?
and how many knurling are there in one revolution?

thanks for the amazing models,

Jimmy.

Jimmy,

You're correct; it wasn't cut directly across the center. The center point actually lies deeper within the body of the phaser (see attached image). The complete thumbwheel would be 2.1226 cm in diameter (and 4.107 mm thick), with 60 ridges around the circumference.

Thanks for the reply

I thought would be notified but apparently not ;)

now i just need to learn how to use a lathe and knurling tool!

also I've seen a WIP picture of the actual hero prop you are working on and it looks great! there are very few people who have put the amount of effort into props that you do or your doing it for free!

Good luck! I'd love to see how your metal parts turn out.

And thanks! When I reproduce a prop, my primary goal is to make something accurate enough that I wouldn't be embarrassed to show it to the creator of the original. Once I'm satisfied with my results, the model files don't really do any good just sitting on my hard drive, and I figure there are probably other fans out there who might enjoy having their own copies, so I put them up here.

What are the dimensions for the clear acrylic piece? I think I might try and print it to mold and cast it in clear resin.

If you're modeling it, I'd make it basically similar to the instructions in step 5: model a cylinder 19mm in diameter and 8.5mm long, then use a plane or cube to cut away everything below 2mm above the centerline.

Polishing the cut edges of the acrylic piece left it slightly smaller than those dimensions, though - it left me with a footprint of about 20.5mm long by 8mm wide, and 7.25mm high at the top of the arc.

Unfortunate that you never completed the "hero" version or the type II.

I am planning on making this the next print of mine. Already found a tricorder to print, looking for a communicator too.

How are the other projects and the P2 coming along?

Sadly, all my projects are on hold - moved to a place with no central air, and I can't get the humidity under control. Trying to find a solution so I can print decently again and get back to making things.

Sorry to hear that. Any off the books WIP to share our keep posted?

I am considering designing a hero class phaser of my own. When I moved to the UK, my Star Fleet Technical Manual didn't come with me, but there is a lot of info online nowadays. Might be able to draw up a prop from them but don't know how I would go about making it actually printable and compatible with your rather good design.

I really would prefer not to release any files until I'm satisfied with them.

But I've bought a couple of dehumidifiers and they're pulling the humidity down (unfortunately, the only place I have room for the printer and filament is in the basement, which was at 87% humidity when they started; I'm aiming for at 45% at the most). And I've made some big bags of silica gel for the containers I keep the filament in. Hopefully this week I'll have the chance to print and tweak the P2 body.

Great work! printed all but the meter dome, is that not included?

It isn't, because it really needs to be completely transparent and perfectly smooth. See the mention of the clear acrylic rod in the last paragraph of the summary, and the preparation method in step 5.

I'd almost rather be able to print SOMETHING to put there than just have the empty space... tho maybe that's just me..

I suppose I can print "something"... and maybe I will...

You can print the early first season version, and glue on the numbers. Or buy an acrylic rod (they're cheap!), cut off a slice, cut it in half, and sand/polish. It takes a lot less time than just sanding the phaser body.

But if you just want something where you can pull a finished object off the build plate and display it without doing any further work, this probably isn't the right model for you.

Oh yes, sorry saw that right after I posted. Thanks again for the great model! Trying to scale it down just a smidge to get it into my Art Asylum P1 :)

Good luck with that - if it works, I'd love to see a pic of it. But if not, the P2 shell is the next project in my queue after I'm finished with the current ones.

Neat design - I made one and it looks great.
How about a Type One phaser to go with it? There do not seem to be any good ones on Thingiverse yet.

Thanks! I'd love to see pics of your make.

I'm still tweaking out the hero version of the Phaser I. Once that and a couple of other projects are finished, I'll be tackling the Phaser II (which should be able to accommodate both the hero and midgrade versions of the P1).

Nice work. They look great.