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bdwalker1

XYZ da Vinci 1.0 Pro E3D V6 Drop-In Cartridge Mount

by bdwalker1 Feb 9, 2016
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Using XYZPrint or S3D, what is the highest temp I can print with this setup?

The maximum printing temperature would still be limited by the software and firmware. I believe that the current version of XYZWare for Pro allows temperatures up to 260C.

hi, i have a Da Vinci 1.0 Pro and I saw the video where I can replace the hot end for the E3D V6 now I will like to know if I could use the board from the OEM or can I change it for the better one like the one you're selling, by the way, how much for the board?
Have you come out with a better version of it if so please let me know.
Thank you
Victor Woods

I would like to buy the part that you make for the Da Vinci Pro

Why? Can't you include the other stl files for the filament holder??

I recently purchased your fully assembled E3dV6 drop in replacement for the original Pro 1 module, and I am printing petG at 250 deg with absolutely no problems. Thanks for making my Pro 1 usable again.

That is great to hear. Thank you for taking the time to provide feedback. I very much appreciate it.

Finished mine today. Now working on the upgrade!

Thank you for your time and effort in design and follow up. I have a 1.0 and a 2.0 that I have been able to upgrade with just a small amount of tweaking and adapting. Your fit and finish are the best I’ve tried; everything just snaps in place. All good things in this business take some adjusting. Thanks again!

hi great design just wondering what are the advantages of using your pcb over the stock pcb?

Primary advantage is you can keep your stock hot end module intact if you want to. Secondly, you don't need to cut/reconnect/solder the electrical connections. For the thermistor and heater I have screw terminal, and for the fan I include a pigtail which you can solder, butt splice, or twist connect to your fan leads then cover the connections with heat shrink tubing or tape.

Also, some people have posted that the alignment of the filament path through the PCB's filament sensor into the E3D hot end can require a little work when using the stock PCB -- I believe they have to shim the PCB out a bit to get the path to line up properly.

Hi.
I built this awhile back and finally got around to going for it on the install modification.
Couple of things that have come up I'd like to run by you.

1 - I can assume by how much lower the E3D hotend is than the stock one that I can no longer use the wipe tray, as it hits the box?

2 - The back fan housing runs into the bed raising bars at the back of the printer. I have not powered anything on yet as I'm just getting things finished out. Does this not create a problem?

Thanks for any help.

Larry,

I am not aware of any da Vinci 1.0 Pro model printers that have a wipe tray.

I have not had any issue with the fan housing hitting the Z-axis rods in my da Vinci 1.0 Pro printer, but maybe I have not been trying to print at the very back of my print bed.

Sorry, I should have been specific that this is on a Da Vinci 1.0a.
The E3D holder you created works for the 1.0, there's just some mods that have to be done to the carriage metal part to make it happen.

As far as I was aware my drop-in cartridge does not work with the 1.0a. If you found a way to make it work I know other 1.0a owners would like to know how as well. Please share the details here if you can. Thanks.

I made a list of what I did, but for some reason the post is "Flagged For Moderation."

That happens when you edit your post several times in a short period. Give it a day or so and the post should show again.

Thank you for taking the time to do this, by the way. I got the content of your initial post in my email. So what you did was converted your 1.0a to a Bowden feed system with the Bowden tube going directly to the E3D heat sink, correct?

That is correct. I cut this part of the metal bracket off that is part of the direct feed system for the 1.0a, which allowed me to run the filament PTFE tubing to the E3D. I bought the Bowden in the pic off Ebay for just a few dollars, and removed the brass drive gear from the stock extruder motor, then installed the Bowden gear that came with the kit.

UPDATE EDIT
I bought the wrong handed Bowden so needed to flip it around in order to have the right orientation. Because of that I had to reverse the extruder motor's direction of drive. This is very easy to do = https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-iubywKkNEE

Additionally FYI - This Bowden drive is VERY fiddly! Takes forever to get the filament loaded. Have to remove the threaded Bowden tube fitting to get the filament in because it has a small internal lip that catches the filament. VERY aggravating. Looking now for a better one!

I guess I should have taken pictures! lol
It was fairly straight forward to do, as long as you keep in mind there isn't anyway to go back stock unless you buy some parts.
I removed all the parts from the carriage, including the extruder and it's metal housing, the metal bracket and parts for the feed gears and the metal bracket that holds the upper clamp and extruder motor assembly.
I assembled your part with my E3D and used the old fan and the pcb board after removing the filament sensor from the board.
(You could of course also just hard wire the thermistor and fan instead of using the pcb.)
With the metal bracket that holds the upper plastic clip assembly (the part that clamps the extruder housing in place) I cut off the part that holds the filament guide, and also removed the 3 pressed in metal studs that are used to align the stock extruder gears. I reattached this bracket back to the carriage using some small screws, washers and nuts thru the 3 holes that used to hold the extruder motor.
Your assembled holder with the E3D was then dropped in place and clipped into the upper clamp, first making sure to feed the new extruder and thermistor wires thru the carriage.
I assembled and bolted on a new bowden extruder setup into the holes already provided in the back of the Da Vinci case, and used the stock extruder motor for it after replacing the drive gear with the one from the kit.
Really that is pretty much it.

UPDATE EDIT
The fan you use for the E3D extruder cannot be ran from the stock pcb. It must be hardwired to 12v constant. I found this out the hard way after constant print failures! (Bdwalker1's board he makes may already address this issue.) At this point the only thing running through the stock pcb is the extruder thermistor, and I think it would be best to simply directly wire it as well and leave the stock pcb out completely.

hello does the PCB still available, I would like to try the swap

Thanks

I cannot, for the life of me, determine WHICH of the DV 1.0's mine is. Any suggestions on figuring out which one? I've already flashed it to Repiter 0.92. I'm dearly hoping this fits ;)

Hello, If you have flashed your da Vinci 1.0 printer to Repetier firmware then you do not have a Pro model.

WHat did i wrong? It doesnt fit? I cant drop it in it stuck

Your printer is not calibrated well enough. Spend time calibrating, or you can buy them from the links the designer gave. If you have a failing rig, I would recommend the latter. Buy iy, install, and be done with it.

Okay i got it. The printquality is much better now (better than the original cartridge). I played with my S3D-Settings and it works. The first few layers are still a little bit tricky but i think i can solve this too.

The Cartridge is a must have for every DaVinci-Printer.

Thanks for the kind words, Chris. I know it can take a bit playing around with the settings to find what works with a new hot end.

Finally i received my Cartridge and it works. Thanks to Bruce.

But i have a few big problems. The prints have much less quality than with the original HotEnd. Is there anything i have to know when i want to print with E3D?! Other Simplify3D-Settings?! Its really hard to extrude the first layers with success, and then it seems that i have too much material / filament.

I'm getting a bunch of heat creep on mine. It will jam every time no matter what i do. There doesnt seem to be any way i can fix this issue unless the fan duct is adjusted to reach the bottom of the heat fins directly. Any ideas?

I bought your PCB, and I am trying to modify the cartridge.

Can you share the orange parts STL of the PCB?

newwar0@naver.com

OK, i just ordered a cartridge from Bruce. I am not able to make it working by myself. ;)

Chris, I got your order via the Tindie store. I'll get your cartridge in the post tomorrow. It will come with an instruction sheet that will hopefully get you up & running with it quickly, but if you run into any difficulties I will do my best to help.

Thank you very much. :)

Hello, HOw can I buy the PCB you made? do you have a Link or email to contact you?. Thanks Leo

Hola Leo,

If you read the "Summary" section on the "Thing Details" tab above you will find these instructions:

I also sell just my replacement PCB for the hot end cartridge for 50USD plus shipping. If you are interested in either an assembled cartridge or a PCB, message me here on Thingiverse for details.

Standard shipping via international post to Spain would cost 15USD. Your total cost would be 65USD (not including any customs duties/fees you may owe).

I am currently sold out of my PCBs, but I will be making another batch in the next few days. Once completed I will fulfill paid orders in the order they were received. If you would like to order a PCB send me a private message and I will provide a PayPal link where you can pay me.

Thanks, I will see when I will buy it from you, Thanks again. Leo

I've notice when you install the OEM PCB board to the cartridge, looking at the install side on, the e3d v6 extruder (genuine) when firmly seated sits slightly lower so when the filament feeds through, it catches the edge of the extruder. Where the PCB screws into the cartridge, I've tried lowering all 4 points of contact at the back of the board, hoping it will lower the board enough so it is centered to the extruder, but when you screw the board to the cartridge, the pressure inserting the screws raises it up again. If they had designed it with screws at he bottom too, it would have aligned perfectly. What makes it even more hard is with the PTFE tube inserted in the extruder.
Is the cartridge designed just for your board?

I designed the cartridge for the stock PCB, and at the time I posted the design I had built my cartridge with a clone hot end that had a slight funnel in the top of the heat sink. Perhaps the funnel hid any misalignment issues at the time. Once I developed my own PCB, the filament guide on my board has evolved to help provide a smooth, constrained filament path into the hot end. The cartridge design has remained the same.

I have had comments from some users saying they needed to add spacers behind the stock PCB to fix the alignment, and I have had at least one user say he had to cut several layers off the cartridge's four PCB support points to get the alignment right. I don't know if there is that much variance in the PCBs or the hot ends or if it is something else.

One thing that I feel is important with the E3D hot ends (V6 or Lite6) is that your PTFE tube extend up to the very bottom of the filament sensor/guide so that there is a direct transition with no air gap in which the filament can curl to one side or another. I also personally widen the inside diameter of the upper end of the PTFE tube to create a bit of a funnel so that the filament has at least a 3mm hole to hit instead of a 2mm hole.

trying to buy the E3D hot-end.
What should I choose between Bowden type and Direct type?

Hello, I was told u sell this whole extruder assembled with a new PCB. How much for the whole setup? I read in one of the comments that this is not compatible with 1.0A. Is it still not conpatible with 1.0A or have u designed one that works with 1.0A? Really interested in getting this. Thanks

My hot end cartridges are only compatible with the da Vinci 1.0 Pro and the da Vinci 1.0 Pro 3-in-1. The da Vinci 1.0A (aka da Vinci 1.0 AiO) as well as other da Vinci 1.0 models have a different drive/feed model -- direct-drive versus a Bowden feed system. Additionally, the da Vinci Pro models have a different PCB on the hot end to facilitate the option of a laser engraver module.

I only own a da Vinci 1.0 Pro, so I do not have the needed resources to adapt my design to the other da Vinci printer models. Some other Thingiverse users have worked on adapting my design to other models. I do not know with what success they have met, but you can find their designs on the Remixes page above and contact them to find out more.

I don't know why but it's not working. The Filament stuck right before the cartridge, so it won't reach the nozzle at all. I used the original pcb-board from the da Vinci 1.0 pro AiO-cartridge. :(

Have you determined if the filament is getting hung up in the carriage, in the cartridge, or between the carriage and the cartridge? For example, if you have no cartridge installed, can you feed the filament all the way through such that it is coming out at the carriage end? If so, with the cartridge in place, if you feed the filament in until it gets stuck can you easily remove the cartridge at that point? If so, you probably have an alignment problem between the metal funnel in the carriage and the black filament guide/sensor on the PCB. If you can't easily remove the cartridge there may be an alignment between the PCB and the hot end. With the cartridge outside of the printer can you easily feed filament through the PCB sensor and into the heat sink?

Hallo Bruce, thank you for your quick answers.
Yes i can feed the filament when the cartridge is not installed and yes the filament goes easily through the black sensor and the hotend when i try it by hand.
I put M3-washer behind the pcb-board (for a little bit more distance) and i was able to put the filament through. But the filament stuck again. I think my problem is the hotend, its not the all metal version. I have pretty much the same setting as jvamps.

http://www.thingiverse.com/make:262393

XYZ da Vinci 1.0 Pro E3D V6 Drop-In Cartridge Mount
by jvamps

You'll also find that the sheet metal that the cartridge clamp mounts to has a tendency to bend slightly which can affect the alignment of the metal "funnel" in the carriage and the black sensor on the PCB. Perhaps you need to adjust the funnel's angle to make sure the filament in transitioning from the funnel into the black sensor smoothly.

The Filament is reaching the nozzle and extrudes a few centimeters... but then it stuck again and its not possible to take the filament out or in. Maybe i should try the original e3d hotend?!

I don't know if this is what you are seeing, but I have heard of other people's clone hot ends having bad alignment from the heat break to the nozzle. They wind up with a bit of filament build up above the nozzle that can't fit down into the melt zone or back out of the hot end. A similar issue can occur with a poorly assembled hot end.

With a genuine E3D hot end at least you can be pretty sure the issue isn't poor quality parts. Quality workmanship is the main reason I only use genuine E3D parts to build my cartridges now.

Will this work for a da Vinci 1.0/1.0a (might be a stupid question but I thought I'd check)

No. The 1.0/1.0A printers have a direct-drive system that is incompatible with this design. Look at the remixes of my design for some that people have tried on the 1.0 non-Pro Da Vincis. Maybe some have made a successful design by now.

Hello! Iv'e just bought an original e3d kit and printed your files. I've assembled everything but I have a question: I had to set the zoffset to 9 mm . is there a way to change this in order to use also a glass bed?
Thanks :D

Yes, you can use something to extend the metal flag at the back of the print bed carriage. The metal flag is what triggers the Z end stop; so, if you extend that metal flag by ~6-8mm you can lower your Z offset by that much. Alternatively, you can tighten the bed leveling screws to get a few extra millimeters.

ok Thanks! I'll give it a try! :D

I am really looking forward to change my stock hotend into this one. But i have only one question left...

Does it work with flexible filament?!

I have not personally tried to print flexible filament with this design, yet. I'd love to hear from anyone that has. I do have some NinjaTek SemiFlex I may try at some point, but even on the direct feed printer I currently print the SemiFlex on it took me a while to find the right combination of temperature, speed, retraction, etc. to get the filament printing well and keep it from kinking up. I think with the Pro's Bowden feed system it will take even more trial and error to dial it in. However, it should work, but I'll probably have to print quite slow.

I have changed the fittings and the PTFE-tube for a better connection from the extruder to the hotend.
Like in this video... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xOYTMc_UDc4

The problem with the stock hotend are the small gaps where the flexible filament can stuck. By the way, the stock hotend is crap.
With the upgrade from the video, the extruder works pretty good. No problems with flexible filaments there.

I have printed your design and i am definitely gonna use it. I just need my E3D v6 hotend to finish it. ;)

Thank you for sharing your design. Great work!

Just wanted to add a comment. I've printed this in both ABS and in PET. The ABS lifted a little and curled, it was mostly working but hard to mount and unmount in the printer. Upgraded to PETG and this is much better now. Slides into and out of the printer with ease.

Only thing I needed to do on both ABS and PETG was to trim the area where the circuit board attaches. The mounts were too high in both prints making the filament path difficult. Some minor work with a knife and file to fix things and I get nice alignment. It was somewhere in the 2 to 3 layers areas that I removed or about .5mm.

I first used the V1, but now am using the V2 version, can't see much difference between the two.

Thanks for sharing your experience, Greg. I have wondered how well the cartridge would do printed in PETG.

I was ready to swop over to the bolt in mount, but the ease of removal from the printer made me reprint in PETG. If/when you have a clog, the only hard part is getting the filament out of the hotend. After that everything can be done on a workbench away from the printer. Since I was having a lot of clogs then, the drop in was pure gold. Then when I was messing with resistors to "correct" the temperature offset from the E3D supplied thermistor, I had that stupid thing out about 20 times in a short span of time. Once again it was pure gold.

And if I decide to give the laser a try, I can still make the switch just like XYZ designed. That was the thing that first made me decide to go down this road vs. the bolt in. In time I may do another hotend so that I can switch nozzle sizes more easily, still need to investigate this as an option. I'd need to buy the complete assemble from you at that time so I would be truly "drop and play".

The only downsides are that you need to crank the bed all the way down to the end of the springs, and that auto bed calibrate no longer works (doesn't work with any other mounts). Minor issues. The auto calibrate could be made to work with a bolt sticking down that is connected to electrical ground. At some point I may do this, but it hasn't been a big deal to manually level the bed, and you always needed to check Z offset manually after calibrating.

Now a drop in dial indicator holder, that might be something to design...

hi where did you buy that extruder board as doesn't look like the original thanks

I did not buy it. I produced it myself.

I looked quickly, but not extensively, my apologizes if this has already been asked.

Have you tested (or has anyone tested) your cartridge mount with an E3D-Lite6?

Thinking about swapping one in my Da Vinvi Pro since I only print ABS with it.
I am starting to get more frequent hot end jams also.
I think do to damaged PTFE liners. So I just replaced all my PTFE tube/liners with new.
Getting tired of attempting to clean the non users friendly nozzle on the Da Vinci Pro.

Also looking at purchasing a Prusa i3 MK2 kit to handle exotic filaments and higher temps with the E3D-V6 and expand my capabilities.
The compatibility of sharing sharing nozzles is also another plus.
Easy to pulled the plugged nozzle drop in a fresh one and keep printign while I clean the old one.

Thanks for your efforts!

Smose

Yes, User @conjor used a Lite6 with my design. He mentions it here: http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/da-vinci/topic:5379#comment-932555

I don't know why the link isn't going to the exact comment (it works if you copy/paste the full link text). Conjor's comment was on July 8, 2016.

bdwalker1,

Thanks for the quick response. For some reason I missed that post. I thought I had read it, but could not find it when I went back.

Smose

I'm muddling along using any photos I can find to help me. I've put everything together but I can't get the E3D mount to fit into the carriage. No matter what I try the filament gears in the stock extruder on the carriage catch on the fins of the E3D and I can't get the mount to go any farther. I've considered unmounting the extruder but just figured out that I'd be unable to put the screws back in as the E3D mount would block the access. I'm very new to all this. I must be forgetting something? The only other thing I can think of is your design is for the Pro, but I'm using it for the 1.0. I was under the impression that there weren't any real differences between the models?

Jerry,

Unfortunately for you, there is a major difference between the da Vinci 1.0 Pro and the other da Vinci 1.0 models. The Pro uses a Bowden feed model where the extruder motor and gear are mounted to the printer's frame, and the filament is forced through a tube out to the print head carriage. This means there are no feed gears near the hot end.

A couple of people have started/made remixes of my design for the direct-feed daVinci 1.0 models. Check out the remixes page, and contact those designs' owners to find out how successful their designs have been.

Best of luck!

I have always said I learn something new everyday, and today is no different.

Thank you for replying so quickly. After I wrote in early this morning asking for help I removed the extruder just to see how things fit together. Now that I know I can't have the extruder on the carriage, it'll make repairing my printer easier. It is also ironic as I was thinking about upgrading to a Titan and bowden feed, but I was going to hold off till next month. Now I have a good reason to do it sooner. Ha!

Again, thank you!

Ok, so I have my E3D v6 (genuine) and this part printed out. What is suggested? Should I be using the Da Vinci Pro thermistor and heat element? Or should I use the ones that came with the E3D?

To wrap this up. I was able to upgrade to the E3D v6 using all their parts (I had to clip the original connectors from the heating element and thermistor from the Da Vinci Pro and solder them onto the E3D parts). So far so good. Only strange thing is that Simplify3D is reporting the temps at much higher then I specify. So I said 220 for ABS and it is reporting 250 (I am getting a laser temperature device today to to know for sure). Is printing fine. Going to give some Taulman 910 in a little bit (I have it in the oven drying out right now). So far so good (although I had to make my z-offset the max the Da Vinci Pro would go, was getting nervous I wouldn't be able to get the clearance I needed). Not sure why...

Glad you are up & running with the E3D.

What is a "laser temperature device"? If you are referring to a non-contact IR thermometer like the ones discussed here -- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Infrared_thermometer -- be aware of the limitations in accuracy of these thermometers. I could never get a good hot end temp using mine. I think it has to do with two factors: 1) My thermometer doesn't have an adjustment for the lower emissivity of reflective surfaces, and 2) it averages the temperatures over its field-of-view so getting close enough to the heat block and also targeting the best spot can be difficult.

When I was doing some hot end temperature testing the most accurate readings I got were using my multimeter with a thermocouple and attaching the probe to the heat block with thermal paste and wrapping with aluminum foil.

Regarding you Z-offset, I'm not surprised you had to adjust it so high, but you may want to try to lower the bed another mm or two using the bed leveling knobs and then re-adjust your z-offset.This will leave you a little bit of adjustment room in the Z-offset setting. Another option is to extend the metal "flag" at the back of the Z carriage that actually triggers the Z end stop. Any sort of thin, opaque material can be used. You just need to be sure it will remain rigid and stationary; if it flexes or moves then the bed won't be able to return to a consistent position every time.

You can use either set. If you are using the stock PCB it will probably be easiest to use the stock heater & thermistor since they already have connectors.

Be careful removing the thermistor from the stock heater block, though. I found carefully cutting it out with a Xacto knife worked best for me.

I just started to take things apart so I can switch over to the E3D. Can anyone confirm what happens if I use the provided heat element and thermistor? I am concerned that I am going to trash the existing thermistor removing it (what am I removing with the exacto knife? The glue holding the thermistor?). And is the provided Heat element better? What are we missing not using it?

Oh, btw, my old print head is a freaking mess....

Can anyone confirm what happens if I use the provided heat element and thermistor?

I'm assuming you are speaking of the heater cartridge and thermistor with the E3D kit; please correct me if I am wrong. And by "what happens" I'm assuming you are looking for the answers to questions like: will it work? will it be better or worse than the stock heater & thermistor? would I be taking any risks by using the E3D heater & thermistor rather than the stock ones? I will try to answer these questions for you. Yes, it will work if you use the E3D heater & thermistor; I have assembled & tested about a dozen of these extruder cartridges using E3D or clone components including the heater and thermistor. Personally, I have not found the E3D or clone components to show any appreciable advantage or disadvantage over the stock components; however, with genuine E3D components the heater is properly sized for the heater block and if you have their latest generation with the cartridge-style thermistor then trying to install the stock thermistor in the hole for the cartridge thermistor could be difficult -- in this case I would definitely recommend using E3D's thermistor. If you are comfortable cutting into the stock wiring connectors and wiring in the E3D components you may as well do this for both the heater and thermistor. If you are not confident you can properly rewire the printer you are probably better off using the stock components.

I am concerned that I am going to trash the existing thermistor removing it (what am I removing with the exacto knife? The glue holding the thermistor?)

Yes, I found that carefully cutting around the outside of the hole the thermistor is in -- being careful to avoid the thermistor leads -- I was able to release the thermistor and its glue from the brass block/nozzle. I also used the Xacto knife to carefully trim the glue off of the thermistor.

And is the provided Heat element better? What are we missing not using it?

I think I answered these above. If not, please clarify what else you want to know. I can at lease answer from my experience.

I want to mention that I have never cut my stock heater, thermistor or fan wiring harnesses to wire in new components. When I use E3D or clone components I do so with a custom extruder PCB replacement that I have made.

I've inherited a flashed Davinci 1.0 that came with the E3D hot end already installed. The previous owner had an over temp problem that melted the cartridge mount. I've since replaced it and put in a new thermistor but I'm not seeing any temperature feedback to the Repetier Host. I've verified that the thermistor is working by heating up the hot end and measuring resistance with my multimeter. I can see it changing as the hot end heats up.

Do you know what the next trouble shooting steps should be? I've googled and googled and can't figure out what to do next.

It is my understanding that Repetier Host does not work with the da Vinci 1.0 Pro printer. I know there are other models you can flash Repetier firmware on to, but as far as I know you cannot do this with the Pro model.

Thanks for the quick replies. I don't have any problem cutting and splicing wires (I bought the printer to help build custom parts for quads, after all). I think my first try will to be to use their heating element and thermistor and if it doesn't work, I can go to the original ones. I do have a genuine E3D and the thermistor is the cartridge-style. The only thing that sucks is the thermistor provided has a REALLY short cable (but has the correct connector). I am concerned about the temperatures (if the thermistor is different enough and the Da Vinci reads the wrong values, I will have no way to verify...I guess I need to buy something that can measure temperature).

In my testing the stock thermistor appears to be a standard NTC3950 thermistor, so most standard 3D printer thermistors will work. Don't get hung up on specific temperatures; in my testing even with the stock thermistor the hot end temperature does not match what is displayed on the printer. The trick is in finding what temperature on your printer works for a specific filament.

Ok, good. I am using Simplify3D, so I should be able to use the E3D at higher temps, right? (I can do that with the stock stuff now with Simplify3D, I just haven't pushed it above 255).

By using S3D you aren't limited to the temperature maximums supported by XYZWare. Your limit, instead, would be whatever the maximum in the firmware is. I think this is 275, but I haven't printed above 245C so I cannot confirm success printing at higher temperatures.

Hi everyone, I've been having oozing problems with this cartidge since I installed it, anybody else noticed that? Can to share your retraction settings?

Hi Oscar, What sort of oozing are you seeing? I print primarily in ABS with retraction of ~5mm-5.6mm, and other than the filament that leaks out of the nozzle during heating and cooling I don't have any oozing problems. When I occassionally print PLA I still get a fair amount of stringing. I think this is because I am afraid to set my retraction higher than ~4.5mm for fear of filament clogging my heat break. I don't have enough experience printing PLA to really know what I can get away with, and I have found different PLAs can make a difference in how likely they are to build up and get stuck in the heat break.

I printed a calibration cube to show you the issue, my printer stops at one corner after every 1-2 layers causing this, I assumed it had to do with retraction, what do you think?
http://imgur.com/0tBtKWJ
http://imgur.com/LsAr5lm

It is likely retraction related. Could also be effected by printing hotter than necessary. To be honest, I am not a 3D printing guru by any means -- I'm still new to this stuff.Hopefully someone else can give you better direction on how to address this. Maybe @ChatToBrian has some advice.

Yeah I'll play with temp as well and keep you posted, I'll send a message to Brian and see what's he's take, thank you very much man I appreciate it.

has anyone tried to bypass the filament sensor switch? My thoughts are to run the bowden tube right into the top of the heatsink, this will mean relocating the circuit board and inserting a small piece of filament to fool the sensor. Looks like it could mount on the bottom of the fan shroud.

Thank you! I am successfully printing with this and the E3D V6! I had some trouble getting it to fit in toward the top but just trimmed some out and got it into place and locked in. Working great so far!

I used everything that came with the E3D V6 universal 1.75mm kit. I re-used the connectors from the original but left enough length on the original parts if I need/want to rebuild it.

Hello.
I made your catridge mount yesterday.
And I assembled e3d clone to printed one.

But I have some concern about temperature.
I made cartridge PLA+ (ESUN Product)
And I don't know e3d heatsink temperature when printing.
Do you have any problem with high temperature (200~240 degree)?

I have not had any problems with heat, but I have only printed the cartridge in ABS. As long as your fan is working properly, the heatsink should stay cool to the touch and should not be a problem. I would be more concerned with the heat radiating off of the heater block, but I have not done any tests to determine how hot the air radiating off the heater block onto the bottom of the cartridge is.

can you please make one for the davinci 1.0

I am sorry, but I cannot. I do not own a 1.0, and the 1.0 is quite different from the Pro. You can try one or both of the remixes others have made.

Hi,

Thanks for doing this thing. I'm in the middle of the swap and have a question. The unit I have is an original version and it looks like they have modified the temperature sensor. There is a sensor within the heater block. So it looks like I will have to wire a connector onto it so it will connect to the board. Where can I get the connectors from, having trouble finding the right ones. The other option is to remove the original sensor and install it on the new block, but how do you mount it? It looks like it's glued on and the only glue I have seen only has an operating range up to 200c.In the pictures it looks like screwed onto the block.

Cheers
Dave

I do not know exactly what types of connectors XYZ used on the extruder PCB. I have not tried to find replacements.

To remove the original thermistor I first removed the brass heater block from the extruder module. Then I used an Xacto knife to carefully remove the thermistor from the brass heater block. I then cut away the extra glue on the thermistor head. I was then able to install the thermistor in the new heater block I used a screw to hold the thermistor in the new block.

will the bowden mod model of the e3d work with this design??

Hi, thank you for the model! could you give me the measurments of the fan shroud so i can modify it to fit the E3D fan to the construction? i love the design much better then the ones i've seen before! so good job

Are you aware the fan that comes with an E3D kit is a 12V fan while the Pro's fan is a 5V fan?

Yes i'm aware of that! Found a video on youtube in wich someone explains how to use the 12V fan

I know the video you are referring to; so, you have the power wiring covered. Now, what measurements do you need that you can't determine from the STL file?

Hi Thank you so much for your work on this. My extruder got jammed, and I accidentally broke my wires off of the heating cartridge while trying to undo the extruder nut. So my question: Is there any reason why you used the heating cartridge, and therm-resistor from the original extruder, or would generic ones work? Could you provide a link to EV3 V6 Parts that would work with your design? Would this work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3D-Printer-V6-J-head-Hot-end-With-Fan-PTFE-Tube-1-75-3-mm-Reprap-J-Head-Hotend-/201553044466?var=&hash=item2eed7f63f2:m:mPnMrzm7RNu5rcdZlaogzeQ
Thank you so much for your help!

Is there any reason why you used the heating cartridge, and therm-resistor from the original extruder, or would generic ones work?

This isn't really an either/or question. Yes, there is a reason I used the heater and thermistor from the original hot end module: the original concept was to be able to install an E3D V6 style hot end in the da Vinci Pro with as little modification/rewiring as possible. Yes, you can use alternate components (12V heater cartridge and 100K NTC themistor) in place of the stock components.

I would not bother getting a full Bowden V6 kit -- the way the Pro is designed you can use a V6 style hot end designed for direct feed because the Pro's Bowden tube stops at the carriage and not at the heat sink. I also have found the quality of V6 style clones to be highly variable; at least half of the ones I have bought have needed some minor modification and/or replacement components (mostly the heat break) to feed reliably. I highly recommend a genuine E3D V6 hot end if it is within your means.

Awesome design! Almost exactly what I have been looking for! Would you mind posting your .123dx also? I would like to make a remix for the 1.0a.

And in case you hadn't seen it, don't forget to check out the remix that has already been done for the 1.0: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1442819

DaVinci 1.0 Drop in extruder cartridge

I have added a 123dx file you can use to start your remix.

So, Does having the fan up there in that angle improves air flow? I'm curious about how this design compares to using the stock E3D V6 Fan Duct and running wires for the 12 V fan, have you had any problems related to a non properly cooled heat sink?

I have not done any scientific analysis of the airflow, but by placing the fan at an angle the airflow is more directly pointed at the E3D heatsink. Because of how low in the cartridge/carriage the heatsink sits a vertically mounted fan would have a very disrupted path to the heatsink. The airflow path to the bottom fins of the heatsink is very narrow so I tried to make the path as direct as possible.

Due to the narrowness of the Pro's X carriage I do not think you could fit the fan/duct included with the E3D hot end onto the heatsink where it sits in the carriage.

The only problem I have had is clogging in the heat break when printing PLA with an all-metal heat break in a V6 clone. I cannot say for certain it was an inadequate cooling issue. A higher CFM fan did not solve the problem, but switching to a PTFE lined heat break did. With genuine E3D V6 hot end I did not experience the same issue.

Judging from other posts on similar matters, it seems that the clogging issue was more related to the v6 being a clone than it is to improper heat dissipation, which is great news. How about speed and reliability compared to stock? And finally, can you give me some advise on removing the original heating element, for some reason I can't get it off.

Reliability is great. I'm getting good results with ABS at 60mm/sec (slower perimeters and first/last layers). I haven't really tried faster because I mostly print smaller items and faster just creates a mess unless you have large items. I can't really compare my speed and reliability to stock because I quit using my stock extruder when I had a major clog. I still have it, but just haven't had the time to reconfigure the printer with it and test it again.

It was easy for me to remove the stock heater cartridge. Once you have unplugged the heater and thermistor connectors you can use two wrenches to unscrew the brass nozzle from the heat break. There is a set screw in the top of the brass piece that holds the heater cartridge in -- once I loosened that set screw the heater cartridge came out with a little wiggling. Getting the thermistor out was more tricky. I tried tugging, heating, etc. without success. Ultimately I carefully cut it out of the brass nozzle with a Xacto knife.

Quick question ... what's the size of the fan ? 40mm ?

Yes, it uses the stock fan size of 40mm. If you are looking to use a fan other than stock be aware the stock fan is a 5V fan -- the extruder's PCB does not have a 12V source for the fan on it.

Yes I want to order a 5v fan from ebay but I was not sure about the size. Thank you Bdwalker1.

Awesome, this is exactly what I have been looking for. How is the latest version? Have you printed with TPU or NinjaFlex?

No, I have only printed with ABS and PLA. I have some PETG, but I haven't printed it through these V6 conversions, yet.

Will this fit 2.0? And are you using Repetier?
Great creation, was looking for this to upgrade my extruder.

I do not have a 2.0, but I am nearly positive this design would not work. The Pro is a single extruder Bowden feed printer. I believe the 2.0 has dual extruders with direct drive feed. Very different architecture.

I do not believe anyone has created a Repetier firmware for the Pro. I have stock firmware.

Any chance you can mail me a printed copy, I will send payment... My Davinci Pro hotend is having issues and I have no way to print, don't want to purchase a replacement just to print this and add the E3D

did you get your part yet?

Would this work with a 1.0a? Seems to be the same drive types.

I believe the 1.0a uses a direct drive system with the extruder feeder motor mounted on the print carriage whereas the 1.0 Pro has a Bowden feed system with the feeder motor mounted at the back of the printer pushing the filament through a tube to the hot end. Because of this, I don't think this mount leaves enough room for the filament feeder gears on the 1.0a. I also don't know if the extruder cartridge dimensions on the 1.0a match the 1,0 Pro or not.

Alright, well I think I have a new challenge. This is such a brilliant idea I think it would be perfect for 1.0 dsvincis. Might print this out today and take some measurements for it. See if I can get a working model for the 1.0a

I'll be interested to know how you get along. My guess is you're going to have to drop the E3D V6 down a ways to clear the feed gears. This will mean the nozzle will be quite a bit lower probably requiring an extension to the Z-axis stop flag on the back of the print bed so the print bed's home position is 15-25mm lower.

Lowering the E3D V6 will also affect the airflow from the fan to the heat sink; be sure you keep air flowing over the whole length of the heat sink.

so what would i need to buy? looks like just a thermistor and the hot end, the heating element looks like it should just be swappable from the stock head wouldn't it?

Actually I used the stock fan, heating element and thermistor. The reason my thermistor has different insulation on the leads is I damaged the original insulation in my attempts to remove the thermistor from the nozzle.

I had originally tried heating & pulling the thermistor out. In the end the easy method was carefully using a small pen knife to cut the thermistor out of the brass nozzle.

So the only E3D V6 parts you really need are metal parts of the hot end. I have also found you need a short piece of PTFE tubing to go from the top of the heatsink down into the heat break. I had originally used a short piece of copper, but after a couple of clogs I switched to PTFE and haven't had another clog (yet).

From the pictures above, what is the Z height now?

The pictures above were actually taken with a non-E3D heat break. With that one the Z-offset was in the 8.5mm-9mm range. Since then I received new heat breaks, and now the distance between the heatsink and heater block is about half what you see in the pictures and my Z-offset is in the 5.5mm-6mm range.

Remember you'll need to do your own Z-offset adjustment as it will vary for each printer based on manufacturing tolerances, bed adjustments, etc.

The holes for the PCB board need to be slightly raised. Everything else fits great, so I'm assuming it's not my printer messing it up.

I made some additional adjustments today, and things are looking better in terms of PCB fit. You can read my update on the Thing Details page.

I will be assembling this latest version tomorrow and hopefully printing with it by tomorrow afternoon. I will update you how it goes.

I'm hoping I am done with this design that uses the stock PCB. Next I am planning to work on a version that uses a custom PCB that takes up less space. This will allow me to move the E3D V6 higher into the cartridge which will:

  1. Put the nozzle closer to where the stock nozzle would sit so I don't have to dial so much Z-offset into the printer.
  2. Give better airflow from the fan over the heat sink.
XYZ da Vinci 1.0 Pro E3D V6 Drop-In Cartridge Mount

No, the holes are still off. I am still tweaking the model. Every time I print what I think is going to be the final model I find there are needed tweaks. I will be sure to post an update when I actually have one that everything fits in properly.

Thank you, I will patiently wait for the final design with the stock PCB, I am interested in making a custom PCB though.

I have finalized my design and made lots of updates to the Thing Details. If you print one of these let me know how it works for you. Thanks.

Looks nice.. it appears that it would work with the stock fan?

Thanks. Yes, it would use the stock da Vinci Pro fan or any 5V 40mm fan.

I am still tweaking the design to come up with a good fit and positive engagement to the carriage so the hot end doesn't wiggle within the carriage. I think I am also going to separate it into two pieces to print to limit the long, shallow overhangs -- they just don't print well for me even with supports.