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Wanhao Duplicator I3 MK10 with Bowden attachment

by 3DPrintingEverything, published

Wanhao Duplicator I3 MK10 with Bowden attachment by 3DPrintingEverything Feb 14, 2016
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2362Views 176Downloads Found in 3D Printer Extruders

Summary

Wanhao duplicator I3 mod for bowden. 6mm hole for threaded bowden attachment from a cheap e3d

Still testing this!

My youtube channel is at
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbktKakstfc68xXnrT_Olgg/videos
Join the facebook group at
https://www.facebook.com/groups/WanhaoDi3/

Print Settings

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

.20

Infill:

50


Notes:

PETG or ABS

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Did you manage to run this for any period of time?

What is the purpose of a square for the fourth screw hole? Thanks!

I second this question! I just printed this thing last night and intend to install soon, but I'm very confused by the square hole.

I never got this one to work. It never lined up properly so I ended up making my own in Fusion360.

When you get a chance, can you post a pic of this installed? I'm curious how it looks in its final form.

Apr 12, 2016 - Modified Apr 12, 2016
3DPrintingEverything - in reply to zolan

I took it off because I started testing the https://flexionextruder.com/, I have it printed if you want me to post that picture? I used a ptfe insert from a cloned e3d extruder and screwed it in the top.

I see you got a picture up! That answers all of my lingering questions bit brings up another. Are the fan/heat sink no longer needed? I would assume those bits would still be necessary. Thank you very much for taking the time to upload that image.

You will else you would have heat creep

Yeah, figured that one out. I've been using this for months and months now and love it.

You said you've been using this for months? I must ask, what improvements have you seen, what mount did you use for the stepper, and what did you do with the heat sink and fan? I assume you kept them on the E stepper?

Thanks for any reply you can get out.

Thats was some other user, I used it for maybe a few days and then had a flexion to try.

HillbillyZT,

I kept the fan and the heat sink attached to the cooling block. It required two M3 Nuts (I think).

I moved my extruder motor up to the top left side of my printer using: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1489794

I recommend something more heat tolerant than PLA for both of these parts and you should make sure that your extruder motor's v-refs are set properly. If the motor gets too hot to touch then the v-refs are wrong and it could cause the mount to deform. If you haven't done this yet, you can find a couple nice videos on the youtube. This not only makes the motors run cooler but it also sometimes significantly reduces the sound the printer makes.

As for me gaining any benefits, that is hard to say as I am constantly improving my printer. I do feel that moving to bowden did give a slightly more consistent flow since the motor was not forced to deal with different angles and different resistance based on where the extruder was at any given point.

Simple Wanhao i3 Bowden Mount

Thank you very much! I intend on printing this out in PETG pretty shortly (working on parts for a buddy's Dbot rn :P). My control box is on the right. I assume the reason that 4 screw holes are there is so that it can be mirrored, so all should work well. Would this work without pneumatic fittings, do you think?

Ah, major question: How much of a pain was it to/How did you get the stepper cable out of the chain so you could get it to the new location?

Again, Thanks!

Yeah, printed as-is it can be mounted on the right or left. I'm not sure what you mean about pneumatic fittings if you are talking about the 3rd party metal pieces that the bowden tube goes into, you can probably find a way to do it without them but you would need some way to solidly attach the tube, otherwise when you extrude the tube would just move and the filament wouldn't be pushed through the extruder.

And I totally forgot about the cable issue. I did NOT want to have to deal with getting the cable out of the chain and then, if I wanted to revert it putting the cable back through the chain. I bought a second cable. Which worked out because there was a period of time I had to revert back to direct drive. I had printed my original ones in PLA and they cracked under stress.

If I were you, I would do the same. I think I got mine from ultimate3dprintingstore.com And I would definitely buy some of those bowden connectors.

One other slightly painful thing is getting the bowden connector screwed into this thing is not entirely easy. I think I ended up putting a tiny bit of super glue on my threads to make sure it stayed the last time I did it.

Dec 11, 2016 - Modified Dec 11, 2016
HillbillyZT - in reply to zolan

Hmm, how long were the screws you used to keep the two pieces of the mount together and bound to the motor?

In fact, do you have any pictures you could put up? Like maybe submit a "Make"?

Hmm, how long were the screws you used to keep the two pieces of the mount together and bound to the motor?

Oh good question. My screws were just a tiny bit too long so I designed a 1.5 cm cylinder with a hole in it to act as a spacer/washer. I think they were either 20mm or 25mm screws that I had. I didn't have any other screws to use so I just made do. Ya know, since I had a 3d printer to make the parts I needed. :D

25mm seems really cutting it close to too short. 20 mm doesn't even go through the bracket all the way.

Hmmm.. Perhaps they were 30 or 35 then. It was a really long time ago that I did this. Sorry for being sloppy with the details. How far out do the 25mm's poke out? You really shouldn't need but 1-2mm to hold the motor on. Just make sure it is nice and tight without stripping anything.

Hmmm.. Perhaps they were 30 or 35 then. It was a really long time ago that I did this. Sorry for being sloppy with the details. How far out do the 25mm's poke out? You really shouldn't need but 1-2mm to hold the motor on. Just make sure it is nice and tight without stripping anything.

Hmmm.. Perhaps they were 30 or 35 then. It was a really long time ago that I did this. Sorry for being sloppy with the details. How far out do the 25mm's poke out? You really shouldn't need but 1-2mm to hold the motor on. Just make sure it is nice and tight without stripping anything.

Hmmm.. Perhaps they were 30 or 35 then. It was a really long time ago that I did this. Sorry for being sloppy with the details. How far out do the 25mm's poke out? You really shouldn't need but 1-2mm to hold the motor on. Just make sure it is nice and tight without stripping anything.

In that case, they were likely 25mm. It looked like it needed another 2.5 to go all the way through, so this all lines up. Sadly the largest M3s or M4s I have just sitting about are 20mm. Thanks very much for the help, I really appreciate it!

Really??!! Do you have any pics?!

chanders,

I don't yet but I keep intending to. One day I will actually get off of my butt and take some pics and upload them.

~Z

You can add them on the side with a nut, it has enough room, I just have that flexionextruder installed.

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