E3D V6 Blower with servo controlled flap

by PristineSource, published

E3D V6 Blower with servo controlled flap by PristineSource Feb 15, 2016


Use This Project

Give a Shout Out

If you print this Thing and display it in public proudly give attribution by printing and displaying this tag.

Print Thing Tag


Thing Statistics

3772Views 533Downloads Found in 3D Printer Parts


This is a blower attachment for the E3D V6 hotend.
This thing mounts using the clip provided by E3D.

View an animation of this at: http://0ze.ro/fan_flap_animation.gif

Things you will need to make this:
1 - SG90 hobby servo (and screws and servo arm)
1 - M5x12 Bolt (or longer, I used M5x16)
1 - M5 Lock nut
1 - MF85ZZ bearing
4 - M3x35 Bolts
4 - M3 nuts
1 - E3D v6 hotend fan clip http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:340312
2 - 5mm long self threading screws to mount the E3D clip.
1 - 40mmx10mm fan

For a manually controlled version of this, check out: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1596799

Print Settings

Printer Brand:



Prusa i3






0.1mm-0.2mm layer height




Make sure that you have retraction on and maybe make your print speed a little slower to allow it to properly print the bottom pegs for the E3D clip.


Step 1

Clean all the parts (remove excess plastic form edges).

Step 2

Insert the servo arm (white in pictures below) into the flap piece (orange in pictures above) and trim the excess. See pictures.

Here it is uncut.

This is what it should look like after cutting.

Step 3

Insert flap (orange in pictures above) into duct body (green in pictures above) and mount servo.

Important Note: make sure your servo is set to the 0 position (0 to 180 degrees), or -90 position (-90 to 90 degrees), and make sure the flap (orange) is completely down (closed). Use the hole on the other side of the flap (orange) to provide access to the servo arm screw.

Step 4

Insert the MF85ZZ bearing. Insert the M5 bolt through the bearing and flap (orange). Secure with M5 lock nut on the inside of the duct body (green).

Important Note: do not use washers on the M5 bolt as they will interfere with the MF85ZZ bearing.

Step 5

Using the 2 5mm long self tapping screws attach the E3D clip (blue) to the blower body (red). The other 2 holes should line up the the pegs.

Important Note: do not over-tighten these screws. Doing so may damage your E3D clip (blue).

Step 6

Sandwich the fan, duct (green) and blower (red) together ensuring the flap (orange) covers the bottom airway (the one pointed at the print surface) and secure with the M3x35 bolts and M3 nuts.

Step 7

Clip the newly assembled object to your E3D v6 hotend. Run the wires for the fan and servo to your printer controller board.

Important Note: Where to connect these and how to configure it in your firmware is beyond the scope of these instructions.


Please note that failure to assemble/connect/configure electronic components correctly can damage them. I will not tell you how to properly connect them or configure them. You will need to research and figure this out on your own.

How I Designed This

Inspired By

This thing is inspired by (but not created from/using): http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:839620

More from 3D Printer Parts

view more

All Apps

Auto-magically prepare your 3D models for 3D printing. A cloud based 3D models Preparing and Healing solution for 3D Printing, MakePrintable provides features for model repairing, wall thickness...

App Info Launch App

Kiri:Moto is an integrated cloud-based slicer and tool-path generator for 3D Printing, CAM / CNC and Laser cutting. *** 3D printing mode provides model slicing and GCode output using built-in...

App Info Launch App
KiriMoto Thing App

With 3D Slash, you can edit 3d models like a stonecutter. A unique interface: as fun as a building game! The perfect tool for non-designers and children to create in 3D.

App Info Launch App

Quickly Scale, Mirror or Cut your 3D Models

App Info Launch App

This is intriguing. What did you do to incorporate the solenoid commands into the slicer model and/or G-Code?

May 30, 2016 - Modified May 30, 2016
PristineSource - in reply to chrissv

That is a bit complicated. I have a SmoothieBoard (and I love it!) which allows me to easily configure it via a config file on an SD card without having to reflash the rom. I mapped a spare output pin on the board (one that will support PWM) to the G-Code M280 (http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#M280:_Set_servo_position) as per the instructions here:
I set my "Output Pin" to the one used by my servo and set the "Output Type" to "hwpwm", then configured the rest as normal.
Then in my slicer software, I added the M280 command to trigger at a specific layer or height.

Sorry, I can't give more detail, but I don't want to tell you something incorrect and you end up destroying or damaging your servo or the electronics to your printer. You will have to do some research on how to control a servo with your specific printer's electronics. Good luck and I hope you get it working! :)