Stretchy Bracelet

by emmett, published

Stretchy Bracelet by emmett Nov 11, 2011

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This bracelet has no clasp; instead you can stretch it over your hand and onto your wrist. It was inspired partially by the Springamathing: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12053. The design on the outside was inspired by MakeALot's link bracelet: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7354.

UPDATE: At the request of nycdesigner, a couple of alternate designs are now also available.


This bracelet is meant to print as a single layer thick. Stretchlet.stl has a thickness of 0.4mm, so it skeins up fine on my TOM. Then I remembered joris' trick with http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8488, so Stretchlet1.stl creates the same shape, as long as you use zero infill, zero extra shells, and zero solid layers. It is also a smaller file and renders faster in OpenSCAD.

These STLs have an inside diameter of 55mm, so scale as necessary. You can also adjust the parameters in the OpenSCAD file, and it will print out the resulting diameter. The springiness works great with ABS, and apparently PLA works as well.

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2 days ago - Modified 2 days ago

For those using Cura 2.6.1:

Go to ''preferences'', ''settings'', almost at the the end there will be ''Mesh Fixes''.
Select ''remove all holes'' and enable this.

This will render the model correctly.
But it will look like a solid.
Go to the ''print set up'', ''shell', ''top/bottom thickness''.
Make this 0.
You may want to set the wall thickness to your nozzle size. Same for the line widths.
My Cura says it should take 12 min, 1.70 m and ~5 g.

For those using Cura 14.07:
Go to ''Expert'', to the right bottom check ''Combine everything (Type-B)''.
Also in the ''Basic'' tab set ''Bottom/Top thickness'' to ''0'' and ''Fill density (%)'' to ''0''.
This cura says it will take 15 minutes, 1.84 meter 5 gram.

Mar 2, 2017 - Modified Mar 2, 2017

So with Ultimaker 2, instructions please! I'm struggling.. Cura 2.4.0

Tried to slice with cura but it doesn't seem to work.

same issue here

Tried to slice with cura but it doesn't seem to work.

Comments deleted.

Has anyone tried it on the M3D Micro? I cant seem to get it to work :(

works perfectly printedone for me (%110) and one for my baby sister (%80)! printed at 0.4mm layer height with 0% infill on high settings!
took 15 minutes for mine and 10 minutes for my sisters!

I have a Cube Pro Duo printer and for some reason in the Cube pro software I cannot get the center to hollow out and it will print filing in the center. I am completely new to this so any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance

Feb 19, 2016 - Modified Feb 19, 2016
triddin - in reply to jtalt

I'm going to try this print myself tonight, but I believe from reading that you need to set the top and bottom thickness to 0 (so it doesn't print top or bottom layers) and set the infill to 0% (so you only get the outside shell printed).

Maybe try some different software to do the slicing if yours can't let you set these options, although it'd be strange if it didn't let you set top/bottom layer count and infill percent.

I think the Cube printers force you to use their Cube software, you can't use Cura or Slic3r even if you wanted :I shame, really

I guess I'll look for something newer I guess, although I will probably just try the Stretchlet on the Replicator 2. Even the layer preview of Stretchlet1.stl shows the solid centre, since the MakerWare version I have won't let me set the # of shells to 0.

Still a bit scared to upgrade the version of this printer at work.

May 30, 2015 - Modified May 30, 2015

With a slight redesign this could be made into a nice watch band...

These work amazingly well in PLA but are outstanding in Ninjaflex, With ninjaflex the bottom layer "corners" get connected and they just need to be cut after the print is done.

How did you print this with ninjaflex? when i tried it with ninjaflex, it streched too much. Did you do multiple perimeters?

I'm using Cura to slice it, shows up with 0 minutes so I used the stretch let 1 and it works but the wall inside are connected together.

I just printed one in PLA, sliced with Cura.
The settings I used:

Basic Tab:

  • layer height: 0.3
  • shell thickness: 0.4 (my nozzle size)
  • bottom/top thickness: 0
  • fill density: 0
  • no platform adhesion (printing on kapton with heated bed at 60C.

Advanced Tab:

  • initial layer thickness: 0.30
  • initial layer line width: 100

Expert settings:

  • Infill: Solid infill top /bottom both unckecked!

Now Cura should show a realistic time and the GCode should print ok.
Mine came out perfect with these settings! Do not forget to save this specific bracelet settings profile for Cura, when you have a successfull print.

Thanks, these settings worked really well with my Printrbot Simple Metal and some Verbatim PLA. Finished in 15 min.

i have 0.4 nozzle
i follow this settings but... i had lines only under 0.15 shell thikness :(

what's wrong ?

Only differences with my settings, as far as I can see, is the bottom/top thickness. Yours is set to 1, while mine is at 0.
Beside that I also have not selected any 'fix horrible' options.

Thanks I will print mine right now!

Looks like you can use Emmett's bracelet in conjunction with an iPhone app :P


Thanks, that video is awesome! Too funny, I bet they don't even know I live right in town. I should look them up.

Now, if they can only fit all their electronics into a bracelet that size...

It can probably all fit... Looks like all it needs is:

vibration motor
bluetooth and/or wifi module
flex sensor or push buttons
BAC sensor module of some sort
RFID tag

i thought your bracelets were designed to hold these natively?

Comments deleted.

Made one of PLA at my city. Inner side was sticked together, not so stretchy, pretty fragile, seeking for superglues right now

Sep 26, 2014 - Modified Sep 26, 2014

When I print these bracelets they come out great. There is ONE issue that I seem to have with all my prints but is most prominent on these because of their thickness. Every print seem to skip a beat, miss, stop extruding, move to quickly, or SOMETHING when it makes a pass on the front left side. Because it is in the same spot on every single thing I print I think something is wrong in my settings or my machine has an issue. Seems to be when the extrusion head moves to the right and forward (towards the front window). Any suggestions or help with this?

I realize I'm a little late on this, but I'm needing some help for my classroom at school. Our school has recently won a 3D printer, and I'm playing with it at home to show the faculty next week. We have an Afinia and I'm unsure what options to select to create this bracelet on our machine. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

When I print under Options I can check the following boxes: Unsolid Model and No Raft
I can also select the Quality: Normal, Fast, Fine

Under Preferences I can select ONE of the following for fill: Shell, Surface or the different fills
Under Support I can change: Dense, Space, Area and Angle

If anyone has knowledge with this particular 3D printer PLEASE HELP!!!

I'm not sure if Afinia has the right options to print this; it was a bit of a hack from long ago when the printers were a little more DIY. You could try the "Shell" option; I would avoid supports and raft. I'm not sure what Unsolid model does, but you can try it.

Thanks for trying... about how long do you think it would take to print on the printer I have? I've been playing around with the options and just looking at the print time and it varies from 1 1/2 hours to 3... this is all new to me and we are just trying to print something cool to show off our new prize! I really appreciate the quick response. Have a great weekend! :)

How do I get this to print on Makerbot Rep 2, without the solid fill in the middle. I tried setting the infill to 0%. Suggestions what am I doing wrong?

I cant seem to get this to slice in Cura 14.03. It is one of my favorite models to print and give out when I do demos. Any help would be great!

Slmplify 3D slices much better than anything esle, and in seconds. Around 150$, but it did miracles on my print quality!

You need to use the solid version and fill with 0%, cure can't seem to slice thin parts.

Try to use slic3r. It worked for me!

I use slic3r, but seems take long time to slice, how long you got it sliced? thanks!

Ya it took quite a while. About 30 mins. After slicing i saved the g-code. keep in mind i have an intel core i5 so it could be slower or faster in your computer

Thanks, I made one, too!

Do you recommend this to be printed in PLA or ABS?

I would go for ABS because of its flexibility.

I cant seem to get this to print on my Ultimaker :( I've tried replacing the tape, trying different resolutions in cura and i still cant get it to print, it just puts some blobs of pla down then picks them up again when it comes in another pass. Any ideas?

I think you are printing the wrong STL. Stretchlet1.stl prints perfectly in UM1 and UM2. Layer height 0.2, infill 0, wall thickness 0.4.

try using glue too

Perfect try with my PowerWasp. White PLA and nozzle 0.3

When I try to slice it with Slic3r it says: processing triangulated mesh. And it never goes to the next step. What should I do? Im printing with 1.75mm PLA and have infill at 0, perimeter at 1 and tob and bottom solid layers set to 1.

I had the same problem. Use the "stretchlet1.stl" with 0 infill 1 perimeter

Amazingly stretchy in PLA :) Thanks :)

How you get it sliced? Can you share?

Cura! Use Stretchlet1.stl.

Thanks Peterparnes! I choose that one and then use slic3r and printed 0.3mm without top and bottom layers.

first printed it in red ABS, it was to stiff.
Second print I made was in Arnitel Eco black, this is the right material for such objects, flexible and soft to wear.

makerware will not allow 0 shells.....any ideas?

Try one. Different slicers have different ways of counting shells. With Makerware you'll have to make a custom profile in order to set floor and roof thickness to zero.

turns out my makerware on linux won't go to 0(1 didn't print properly), but makerware on my windows machine did go to 0. Go figure.

Yep that's widows for ya!

Made 2 using Taulman 618 nylon. Dyed using Jetty's process of 50/50 vinegar/water and some food colouring (4 drops to 1/2 cup liquid). Bring to a boil and leave it until you get the colour your after, the longer it's left the darker the colour! Oh first time I boiled it with the object in.. by the time I took it off the heat (the small one) it was that dark! So I think a better method is to bring it to a boil and dip the object afterwards until you get the colour your after.

DO NOT heat the mixture in the microwave without the object in the liquid! It "blew up", food dye all over the microwave, I figured it's just liquid why would that happen :)

The triple colour one is 30cm high.. So I put 10cm in 2 different bowls... and just flip it over... (I rinsed it in water after each so it wouldn't run)


Great design! I couldn't figure out the Customizer.. So I just edited the Scad file :)


Stretchy Bracelet

Very nice, I like the watermelon one. I see you discovered the superheated water phenomenon. Thanks for the info.

Check out this month's edition of RepRap Magazine (free online). This is one of the objects they used in their slicer shootout, and most of the programs had trouble. Try slicing this with Cura. After a month of fighting with the object, I got it to print this evening!

Awesome, thanks. As usual, my designs are the bain of slicers. I had those troubles too, hence going to the solid model and only printing the perimeter. Good to see the slicers are making progress.

if i put the stl fil in slic3r it wont slice ir can anybody help me

Worked great. Printed Stretchlet and it came out beautifully.

I can't seem to be able to slice this. Anyone also have this issue?

I made one with "normal" PLA and it was too brittle. I had to scale it up 120% to fit (which improved the print quality), but several of the inner triangles were stuck together, and while I was trying to snap them apart I snapped the whole thing. Now it's just a spring thing ;< Going to try with ABS next. Any suggestions as to how to get the "inner points" of the triangles to not touch? I believe I have the slic3r config working (it just prints the bracelet with a single filament going all the way around) but the inner points sometimes "touch".

I print with an extrusion width of 0.4mm, so if it's much higher than that, it may join up at the corners. Also, if you squish the first layer too much, they'll join just at the bottom layer.

I'm using 0.35mm and it works much better using ABS than PLA. The scaling up in size is no longer needed as the ABS stretches plenty, plus they are not brittle. A few of the inside corners still get stuck together, but not as badly as with my attempt using PLA, and they "break apart" much better with ABS.

Brilliant! Sliced with no problem using Slic3r and a 0.3mm nozzle but I had to follow the advice from FalcolnFour below when I tried to create GCode using Slic3r for my 0.5mm nozzle. Printed several of these in PLA and ABS - all good. Tried the options in OpenSCAD but like the original design in clear PLA the best. Christmas is coming .......!

Stretchlet is a preloaded model on the spanking new MB Replicator 2 which is a sensational machine. Went from unpack to set up to Stretchlet in 15 minutes flat.  Looks great in transparent PLA.

Thanks a lot for sharing your design! We have printed it hundreds of times during the Maker Faire in NY. We added some gcodes to launch it with the printhead from our Ultimakers to shoot it into the public! The audience loved it!!!!

Thanks again!
Siert Wijnia
Co-founder Ultimaker

Ps. Best regards from Erik, he met you last year at the Maker Faire

 Awesome, great to hear! I'd really like to see a video of you launching it off the platform. I might have to try that.

Has anyone gotten this to work with Slic3r? My daughter got one from the Makerbot Booth at Maker Faire yesterday and was very excited. I tried to print another one with my printrbot for her but no matter how big I scale it, the machine wants to draw an inner circle, then a series of attached triangles, rather than one continuous line. 
Any tips? I've tried a number of variant slicing settings- slicer totally hangs on Stretchlet.stl, so all my attempts have been based off Stretchlet1.stl. 

 It worked for me with Slicer but it did take over 90 minutes to slice.

Thanks Pete, I was wondering why it was taking so long...

This ones printed with Diamond Age PLA, havent seen an ABS version, but i'd love to know how it compares in ABS.


i saw your video, it was amazing. Compliments!

Fun, fast print. It printed perfectly on a Replicator, 0 infill, 0 extra shells, fill disabled in profile. I am surprised how flexible and durable it is. Good stuff! 8-)

Slic3r wont slice the stretchlet.stl

and the stretchlet1.stl is seen as a circle with triangles attacked to it instead of actually being a line :(

I got it to slice Stretchlet1 properly and print in a continuous line as designed... but my extruder calibration is driving me nuts. It printed OK (protip: don't add a brim like with pretty much every other print... it's a pain to remove), but the extrusion width was too narrow to make it very strong. Here's what I used:

Height: 0.3mm
Perimeters: 1
Generate extra perimeters when needed: DISABLED
Solid layers: 0
Fill density: 0
Advanced -
gt; Extrusion width -
gt; Default: 0.4mm (I think this is the key)

rolfsnolf, did you ever get this to print?

bit late reply, but yes i got it printed, i reedited the file, and printed with no infill, and made my gf happy with it :) though it was not really stretchy, more bendyish, but it fitted

I'm not surprised it had trouble with stretchlet.stl; stretchlet1.stl is a much better bet. And each cross-section does indeed look like a circle with triangles attached; if you print only the perimeter (as per the instructions), that forms a crooked line. So it sounds like it's working; post a pic if I'm wrong.

I'm having the same problem...

...has anyone successfully done this with Slic3r?

Hmm, that looks pretty ugly. Maybe try narrower threads (or scale up the bracelet) just to see if that helps slic3r out. Otherwise, file a bug report.

Just printed a bunch of these - I'll upload pics shortly. They're great - they print fast, don't use much plastic, and are the first thing my daughters have been interested in from the Replicator. Thanks.

Since others are talking about how to print it, I'll say that for me printing was easy - I just made 'perimeter' profile, with the 'fill' module turned off, printed with 0% infill, and it came out fine. I've printed in "gold" and "silver" so far, and trying PLA next.

Dale Dougherty (founder of Make) brought one of thse to the panel that he and I spoke at this past week in Washington DC, and now I want to print one but I'm having problems.

Are you guys using ReplicatorG to print these?

I'm using ReplicatorG on a Mac under Lion to print to a TOM.

I have tried the settings you recommend:

Object Infill (%) = 0%
Layer Height (mm) = 0.3
Number of Shells = 0
Feedrate (mm/s) = Anything

It tris to build the model as a big solid.

What am I doing wrong?


Awesome. You'll have to dig a little deeper than Print-O-Matic settings. It's not enough to put infill at zero %; you have to turn off the fill plugin entirely (so it doesn't make the top and bottom surfaces). In ReplicatorG, go to the Gcode menu -
gt; Edit base profiles. I make a new profile called Perimeter for these kinds of prints. In that profile, go to Fill and uncheck the "use infill" box at the top. When you create your Gcode, just select your Perimeter profile.

Thanks, this is great - as others have been mentioning it really opens up the door to other unique functional applications.

These might make nice tank tracks!

Very cool as intended bracelet too, of course. Excellent work.

Thanks, that's a cool idea. I'd love to see a tank track derivative of this. Shouldn't be too hard...

I believe there is a thing out there for each person, which when seen will make that person under stand the power of the MakerBot. This is one of those things for many people.

Or, instead of using MakerBot, you could get a H-1 from SeeMeCNC for only $450 assembled. It's a much better product regardless. Everything is made of Stainless Steal and Glass-Filled Nylon. the thing is basically indestructible.

Why do I detect the aroma of spam?

Made one as a first object with a new hot-end i designed: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13589http://www.thingiverse.com/thi...

Great design! Thanks a lot!

emmett - in reply to

Awesome, it looks like your new hot-end did a good job. I'm glad I finally made a sufficiently simple object to be used as a test print.

Red is ABS; yellow is PLA. Both work well.

Thx for the great design. Can you please make one without the cabled ribbing? And maybe another with ribbing that's horizontal rather than angled?

Thanks for the pix; that's great that it works with PLA too. The OpenSCAD script is pretty simple; there's a module called base that defines the outside shape. It should be pretty simple to replace that with any other cylindrical-ish shape you desire. I'd love to see customized versions.

Thx. The other versions would be lovely if I were a programmer that used SCAD. That's why I asked you to just quickly knock out the alternates.

OpenSCAD's pretty easy, you should give it a shot. However, since you've posted so many nice pictures of my designs, I'll do these requests for you.

Thx so much!!! Can you also post the SCAD files that generated those versions; then I can see the variables you tweaked, and learn from there.

No problem, I've updated the SCAD file. Read the comments and you should be able to render any of the three designs.

Oh, this is cool...

You don't set the infill to zero and extra shells to zero. You actually just turn off infill. Just uncheck it and it will only make the perimeter.

When I do this, it doesn't print. The head moves in the right way, but no plastic is extruded.

That's SF's Fill Plugin, right? Just uncheck the box up at the top that says "Enable Fill"

Yes SF's fill plugin. Just uncheck the box at the top.

Thanks, that sounds like a simpler method.