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Plinth 01 by Jennifer

by JenniferG, published

Plinth 01 by Jennifer by JenniferG Feb 25, 2016
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Summary

I saw a cool plinth on a Frostgrave wargaming thread: http://www.lead-adventure.de/index.php?topic=87575.0

I thought it looked really cool and just had to have it. So I sketched up something that looks similar to it in Sketchup and finished off in Blender.

It's currently scaled for my statues which are large and have a base of 1 1/2". Please scale down appropriately (or up) for your figurine. If you want this plinth to work for a 1 inch base (25mm), then try printing at about 67 percent.

The sketchup file, blender file and the STL are all included. Enjoy! Feel free to re-mix.

Unless you slice off the top disk and print in two pieces, print with supports.

Link to some notes on how I designed the cylindrical part of this plinth in sketchup:
http://dmscraft.proboards.com/post/50900/thread

Painting Tips:
For stone statue plinth: Base coat with 2 or 3 coats of a warm black or very dark brown. Let dry thoroughly -- I do this under a box fan supported by 4 soup cans (away from water).

Take a warm medium to light gray and load up a flat tipped broad (preferbly round) brush and brush out most of the paint on a paper towel or paper. Stipple (light stabbing perpendicular motion) on the paper to see a dotted pattern -- if it is a solid circle keep stippling on the paper until dots. Once dots appear, then carefully stipple those dots onto the dark base coat -- this should give you a nice stone effect. Repeat if necessary, scattering it all around well and even. If it is overdone just let it dry and rebase with black/dark brown and redo it.

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The accuracy on your printer is quite impressive, I can't see any striations under that paint!

It's the painting technique. It was printed at .2 layer height even.

I did a "stipple" with a dry brush... grey over the dark grey. Makes a light dot pattern. Read the thing details description under painting tips. I go into some detail how I do it.

Are the paints thick? Cause I've tried similar before with dry brushing on .1 thickness and did not have a results as good as yours. lol

Mar 12, 2016 - Modified Mar 12, 2016
JenniferG - in reply to GamerGorman20

Well normally when I dry brush I make a sweeping motion , lightly .. with a very lightly loaded brush. This is really bad technique for dry brushing printed plastic because it highlights and accentuates the striations.

Well with the stipple dry brush what you do load it and lightly stab it on paper towel until light dot pattern forms, then at that point lighting stab that highlight onto the dark base coat. I checked out the piece and angled it in the light, those .2 layer lines are definitely there.. the stippling is concealing it greatly though.

This creates a fine dot pattern that doesn't follow the striations lines and conceals them. This is a popular make up artist technique for concealing blemishes on the face. The fine dots really cover up stuff. WHen I do my makeup I stipple it on and it comes out really nice compared to brushing or wiping it on.

It's better than a sponge because of the fine dots produced by hundreds of hairs.

My paints aren't thick, they are runny. But actually the viscosity of the paint shouldn't matter much with this technique since you make light stabbing motion on paper towel until desired dot pattern is achieved. With runnier paint, it just takes a litle longer to get to this point. So paint viscosity shouldn't matter.

(I keep saying paper towel but I often use a piece of paper, scrap chipboard or even scrap cardboard.)

I've only painted 2 minis before, so I don't know a lot of the tricks. Just what I've learned from a few YouTube videos. I only have a handful of Citadel paints and two brushes, but I'm looking to expand. lol

I'm definitely going to try this stipple thing with my next mini, is going to be a bronze golem.

Any advice on faces? This was my second mini and I just couldn't get the face to look even remotely decent...

https://www.instagram.com/p/BCzkl5kASof/

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