The Orca 0.3 from mendel-parts.com has a very tricky z-endstop. It's totally non-adjustable and is connected with one single tiewrap to one pole. So it totally needed a redesign to make the z-axis adjustable.
The X-axis suffers from the same problems, and I will also redesign that one within some weeks from now. I'm also designing an extruder light for the dark winter days. So follow my account if you have an Orca 0.3 and want to improve it!
- Print the parts. Best is to use the combined one. I've printed mine with a 0.22 layer on 35mm/s. You could print a bit slower then me to improve quality.
- During printing start by connecting the wires to the lever switch as illustrated in the pictures.
- Wait for the print to finish and drink some coffee (tea not allowed!). I took a shower however, which isn't easy to combine with drinking coffee...
- When the print is finished carefully put the switch inside the holder. This can be hard when you chose inflexible wires. Just take your time.
- Put both nuts inside the base part, now use a bolt to pull the nuts inside. Remove the bolt afterwards.
- Put the bolts through the holder, add the spring, and attach the bolts to the nuts in the base part as illustrated. Do not tighten too much.
- Now attach the base-part to the Y-bed as illustrated
- Connect the wires to a connector. When you are using Gen6 electronics then then connect the wires to the outermost 2 pins of the OPTO-Z-Connector (pin 4 and 5).
- You will need new firmware for the optos to work. I've written a patch for the marlin firmware which can be downloaded here: http://code.google.com/p/mendel-bed-mapper/downloads/detail?name=Marlin%2Blevelbed.zip&can=2&q=
- Calibrate your z-axis and start enjoying this wonderful piece of technology...