Steampunk goggles

by DAstronomer, published

Steampunk goggles by DAstronomer Aug 22, 2013
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Steampunk-ish goggles designed to work with 52mm camera lens filters. These are prototypes. The finished design is almost complete, but I wanted to get something of the final design posted before Dragon*Con. The octopus on the side of the blue strap shield didn't print too well at 0.2mm layer height on my boss's Replicator2, but with some handwork, it should turn out ok.
If you buy 52mm color filter camera lenses from Amazon, they will fit in the front. I need to do some redesign so that the filters will fit snugly in the tube. Currently they need to be glued into place, which is a bummer, but they sure do look nifty.
Aug 25:
Put together the goggles after painting+sealing them. They look good, although I think I'm going to have to reprint the top tube and redesign it so the filter sits inside comfortably. We'll see how it goes!
Aug 26: Replaced the previous top-tube piece with a new one. It snugly holds the 52mm filter I bought (I based it on the lens I ordered from Amazon - search for Goja camera lens filter and it'll show up).


I printed 9 pieces in total - two wings, two lens holders, two front tube pieces, two buckles, and one bridge/nose-piece. The goggles are symmetric (no left-right) and are assembled using 2.5M x 30 or 35mm long bolts and nuts (which can be ordered from McMaster-Carr if your Lowes or Home Depot doesn't carry them).
I designed a few different-length bridges. I found that the 20mm bridge is best for me, but I'm not petite. One of the smaller ones might work better for smaller people.
The octopus on the side didn't print perfectly, but I enjoyed making it. I've got some variations in mind for future updates.
I used Valspar Primer for Plastics spray (2 coats) and will use Testers Enamel model paint to get the proper look.
I will use 25mm (1inch) elastic straps for these goggles (that's a blatant borrow from guyc's excellent steampunk goggles - see the derived from section for a link).

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I tried setting inches, even went into 3ds max and loaded in inches, i dont know what program u used to model them, but it messed them all up. Makerware, mPrint, Slic3r, Kiss, Cura, even friggen S3d, wont size them correctly. Cura trys but from what i can tell, you either modeled at the wrong decimal place, or you converted them to another format at some point and forgot to tell ti the sizing info. Kind of upsetting. Ive tried the 25.4x, which is too big. Ive tried 10x, which is too small. Now i have to go into max manually and size them correctly, which is going to chew up the better part of today. :( Theres a reason we use millimeters here in the FDM field, man. I'm in the US too... I get it, but you need to know both... Would be nice if you uploaded a fixed version.

@DevWolf - 2 things:
1) I did design these parts in millimeters. The goggles are designed to fit 52mm camera lens filters (that's a good way to check the proper scaling, btw). I uploaded the STL files I made in SolidWorks which (literally) were designed in mm. Unfortunately thingiverse/makerware goofed the units, meaning that I (and others) had to scale them in makerware (gasp) with the mm -> inches conversion button.
2) lulz are you serious? I'm sorry that my free design on the free website aren't working for you.
Given that several other people have printed these goggles without complaint (including me), I think the problem might be on your end.

I know how to scale it man, but in order to get that correct, ive had to take it into 3ds and mock up a bunch of stuff to size it to, like the lens. If you had just modeled it with correct size information, none of this would have been an issue. As far as thingiverse, it has nothing to do with size units, it just transfers YOUR file. And makerware isnt even in the equation. Maybe on your end but if youre running it through makerware before uploading, i dont know what youre trying to accomplish. The scale conversion method does not work, because the part is, as i would describe it, microscopic for a model. Its way too small for it to have been a mm vs inch thing, theres something else going on. As for the lulz, i find it funny that you think it bothers me that i cant print it, im an engineer dude, i make my own stuff. Its the 9.5 out of 10 people not knowing what theyre doing thing, thats what irritates me. As far as other people making them, yes, but theyre still not sized right. And notice how many other people have had problems... Your comments are filled with it, so nice try there, but no, not really. Ive been doing this for 10 years, printing for 7, with 2 grad degrees, running a business doing this every day, 7 days a week, sometimes 14 hours a day, and i dont have these problems with anything else.... I highly doubt its on my end, but if you have a better explanation than "makerware and thingiverse did it!" then i would love to hear it...

Comments deleted.

That's because you need to go from mm to inches (2540% scale up). Give that a try. Alternatively, I have a very handsome design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:429553) that prints all as one piece with a similar wing flap covering the strap cut outs.

Geared Steampunk Goggles

These are so spiffy. I want to make them!

I want to make some simulated pressure/temperature gages and the front pieces of your goggles would do the trick if they fit the lenses I already have. They are from a pair of welding goggles and are the same size as a number of goggle inserts I have obtained from steampunk dealers so I assume they are a standard size. Your goggles are designed for 52mm photography lenses but my lenses measure 50mm. They also lack the thread mount that the camera lenses have. Will my lenses fit without modification or will I need to scale the goggles when they go to the printer?

Hi Kordite, I seem to have lost my design files for this particular set of goggles, but I have the lenses with me.
The outer diameter of the lens holder (ie the inner diameter of the goggles) is something like 52.4mm where the threaded part is. The non-threaded part is more like 55mm (that's what sticks out beyond the lens in the main photo for this Thing).
I would definitely scale down to 95.4% or so - play around with the goggles and make sure they fit. The part that I used to hold the lens is lens-holder-octopus.stl. Print a few of those with the scaling near 95.4% and see what works best for you.

Really cool piece! Just finished printing it out and painting it earlier today. It was a big hit at Halloween this evening. Looks amazing! I'll post a pic when i get a chance. For some reason the support material was a bit of a pain to remove. Not sure why. The octopus turned out really nice. Haven't got a chance to color him in yet though. It was a last minute thing and I didn't have any bolts long enough so drew up my own version of some fake bolts and printed them out. They seem to work well. Thanks for sharing!

When I drop these into Slicer, I get tiiiiny objects. What's the proper scaling factor? (looks like 20-30?)

I made the goggles in mm, so use 25.4 to bring to inches. That should work.
MakerWare recognized that I had really small parts that were probably designed in mm, and asked if I wanted to scale them up. I'm surprised it didn't ask you the same...

I have the same problem, SUPER tiny. What scaling factor should I use? I am using the FlashForge FlashPrint software. For now I will try using 25.4x scaling.

Yes, try 25.4x scaling.

Even 25.4x is too small.

Great! That does seem to be the correct size. In the printing process . . .

Tried to print but getting a lot of stringing from overhangs. Did yours string?

I had some stringing on the interior where the cut-outs for the straps are (the 'wing' piece), but it wasn't too bad. I used some medium-grit sandpaper and it came off for the most part.
I didn't have any noticeable stringing from the other pieces...unless you're referring to the support material that's so freaking hard to get off...
I printed all of the pieces with the flat (or flattest) side down. Apparently I chose my initial build plane poorly when I started, so I had to turn them in Makerware before printing. The 'lens-holder' piece took a lot of support material, but I didn't notice much stringing there.
Hope this helps!

That's what I did wrong, I generally don't use support material. I just end up breaking whatever I printed