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russrobot

Frustrating Puzzle Box

by russrobot Nov 21, 2011
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on cura i scale the one halve up to 25.5 the other 24.5 then there is enough clearance. the box wil have a smaller halve, but the puzzle will work much better like that. and no post processing needed anymore. also like so it's easy to see wich side to smack. nice simple puzzle box, but if you don't know the secret not easy to open, like it alot.

I tried to print the current version.
The first problem is that the whole cube is to small so a scaled it to 2000%.
Then the cube looks good but there is no clearance so the parts don't fit together.

Do you have any other recommendations for magnets to use? Neither of those links work anymore.

this is evil and I love it.

Thank you. I made my first box and looks excelent. I will search my scrap parts for the required balls size (I don't know how to manipulate size's and such !) but I wish to thank you for the starting idea. I will use it for Geocaching puzzle box. Again Thank you !

Cool! Do you think you could post a video showing how it works?

BALL SIZES - using CURA.
For 15mm steel ball and with Uniform Scale Locked set Scale to 40. For 18mm set to 46. For 20mm set to 50.
Magnet 16x1mm ok. (steel balls from ebay or Amazon - chrome ball bearings are too expensive and not necessary)
Cube halves are very tight and may need some filing also a little oil/grease to get them moving.
Hope this helps, it's a great cube puzzle. I have made 6 using PLA. Thanks.

Great Puzzle Design - but it is very difficult to make successfully. See the comments I included with my MAKE for details. Thanks for a very clever puzzle design. -mike-

What size are the bearings?

Through trial and error I discovered that 1/4" bearings work great for the smaller trick holes but a 1/2" bearing is just barely too big for the larger hole. Reprinting at +10% made them both work. I keep getting a crack lengthwise on the bottom half where one of the trick channels is, but I'm fairly new with ABS.

"Red hearing?" Typo, or genius pun?

Has anyone had any luck getting this working from an extrusion-type printer? I have tried twice on my new Prusa, but the clearances are so tight that even after a lot of manual work, I can't get it to go together. Is it unreasonable clearances in the design (for an extrusion printer) or my badly calibrated printer?

I used a statrasys printer. It has pretty high tolerances. I designed it to have 0.00" clearance. This made the part have a very firm and crisp rotation. You might try enlarging the features of the bottom half by 0.05" to help them mate. If you don't have solidworks I'll export and upload another file format for you if you wish.

I don't have Solidworks, but I can likely get by with STL import to Sketchup. I may try my hand at OpenSCAD and make a parametric derivative. Thanks for the response!

This is pretty cool. Nice work.