by nophead, published

Doorstop by nophead Dec 4, 2009
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Doorstop by nophead is licensed under the Creative Commons - Attribution license.

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A wall mounted doorstop. Functional, but not aesthetically acceptable to the wife, so probably only suitable for an aesthetically challenged bachelor!

See http://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2009/12/quality-control.html


Slice it for 0.4mm filament 0.32mm layers. That should give a one layer membrane over the hole in the bottom to support it. Drill that out and screw it to the wall with a countersunk screw, head less than 10mm, shaft less than 5mm.

Add a 2mm stick on felt pad to cover the screw hole and provide a soft landing.

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I really like this one, but don't quite understand the need to support a hole. Anyway, I'll print it in white ABS. Sanding and spray paint can give a really nice finish. There even is chrome spray paint.


If you take a look at the STL it becomes clear why the support is needed, take a look at it sliced in half.

The first few layers are rings., then a disk for one layer and then a tube. Without the disk the inner circle of the tube would be printed in mid air. It's a trick to avoid support material.

I'm surprised that the spanning works so well for you. When I started out with my MakerBot, I used the default layer height of 0.375mm. I probably had bumped up the feedrate a little, before I understood Skeinforge well enough, so my objects didn't have quite enough plastic in them, and especially horizontal planes were too open. So, I lowered the layer height to 0.35mm with great results. Now, as experiment before printing this, I changed my layer height to 0.35 mm, while adjusting the speed to my original speed (30mm/s) multiplied by (0.35/0.32)^2 to get 36mm/sec. Printing a little minimug, I seem to have a bit too much material, so I increased the feedrate to 38mm/sec. For the bridge speed I've set 1.25 times the regular speed, and 0.9 times layer thickness and infill width, IIUC.

Could you sometimes blog a bit about how you use the various skeinforge settings? This really seems key to good print quality, but the number of knobs to fiddle with is truly staggering...
Recently I reduced that to 0.35mm, with a slight bump in feedrate


I don't use much of Skienforge. I just use http://slice.pyslice.py and http://fill.pyfill.py from a version over a year ago. That means the only things I ever change in Skeinforge are extrusion diameter, infill density and extra shells. I only extract the paths from Skeinforge g-code, nothing else.

I set the speed, nozzle size and temperatures in my Python script. I also specify the feedstock diameter. Everything else is worked out algorithmically.

I set the extrusion diameter to the nozzle aperture, or less. The layer height is always 0.8 times the extrusion diameter, which makes the widt
h 1.2 times the diameter. I program the extruder feed speed to give the specified extrusion diameter at the head feed rate. In practice that stretches the plastic because it would naturally swell bigger than the nozzle aperture.

It is critical to get the feed rate spot on the get a good top surface
. Too little and you get gaps or valleys between filaments, too much and it rucks up into ridges and blobs. That is why I have always used a shaft encoder or a stepper. It is closed loop and there is not trial and error, my software simply calculates the extruder motor speed from the parameters men
tioned above.

You also need at least 3 solid layers to get a flat top surface. it takes that many to recover from being bumpy from laying over sparse infill.

hehe. the wife/mom aesthetic test is always the hardest one to pass.