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Hey! This thing is still a Work in Progress. Files, instructions, and other stuff might change!
countspatula

Ghostbusters Ghost Trap (1984)

by countspatula Mar 9, 2016
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First off, awesome work Sean! I'm really excited to put this together. I've bought your electronics guide from Etsy. Now I'm trying to source the majority of parts from AliExpress and eBay which goes surprisingly well.

I only have a problem finding the #6 screws. This size translates to M3.5 in the metric system, however these are hard/expensive to find in Europe and China. Do you think I could substitute these with #4 screws, or rather #8? Or would I run into trouble fitting the existing holes in the 3d prints?

I think M4 may work - will have to drill at least the pass-thru holes.

Thanks, I'll give it a try!

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I don´t want to be impertinent, I really like the desing and have the biggest respect of the work you had with this trap. But as I like to Change some parts (especially the Mechanik for the doors and Fixing Points for the electric) I would like to ask you if it is possible to get files in another Format? Maybe STEP? Please?

Regards, Peter

Sorry will not be posting source files. They were modeled in Cinema 4D so aren't much different than the STL files.

Comments deleted.

I'm really wanting to do this project, the issue i have is that my bed is a little too small for some parts. I can fit them all if I print it at 90%. My concern is that making it 90% will make sourcing screws difficult. I've seen people do scaled versions before & wondered what others had done. Thanks for any help.

I recently added chopped up versions of the side panels and bottom which may help. Scaling 90% will make the fastener situation difficult. You may want to look at something like MeshMixer which will allow you to chop things up further and then glue them together.

Ok. That's kind of what I was thinking. Thank you for the advice & the quick reply. Cheers

Absolutely fantastic. Just watched Tested and spent the whole time picking my jaw up from the floor.

Thanks! Glad you liked it.

Am I the only one trying to fit a potentiometer under each knob of the trap?
I'm having issues with the front panel ones; Except for one, it seems I'll need to do heavy changes to the front box before I can fit them.
(that's a shame, I managed to source two with the extra thin shaft for the rectangular knobs, and I cannot use them :o( )

Any idea how to manage this? (is there an extra small kind of potentiometers that would fit in there?)
Is it even possible?

Any idea about resolving this issue?

I know I don't need to do that, but I'd like every button to work :o)

Any news for the electronic part?

Official website says "Electronics guide is going to take a while". Are we talking in days? months?
I printed everything and found almost all the hardware, so I'm kind of looking forward to start assembling ;o)

Could we at least get some insights about the doors opening mechanism? (I assume this is the only part that may require some changes during the assembling of the trap).

The guide is in the works. Not possible to give much insight into the door mech without writing the entire guide - no modification is needed, just installation. The Trap can be assembled and the electronics installed afterwards with partial disassembly.

It's good to hear it's still coming :o)
I'll start assembling since there shouldn't be too much changes..

Now the question is: Does it work against ghosts?

Very nice work!

I started to print the trap on a smaller printer (200x200mm printbed). I had to edit a few parts in order to make them fit and I'd be happy to share those alternate versions, but since the license is "share alike" I probably need some authorization first, so... that's me asking :o)

Thanks again for the awsome work you've made countspatula!

Thanks very much.
Simply use the 'Remix It' button at the top and post your files!

Done!

I'm looking forward for the electronic part documentation now ;o)

It should probably be noted that those who have upgraded to the Ultimaker 2+ will have to use the original UM2 fan shroud or print one similar (where the fans are 45 degrees instead of lying flat) and they'll also have to adjust the print bed size in their slicer of choice to the original UM2's bed size, as the UM2+ has just enough of a smaller print area that some parts (like the bottom frame) will not fit regardless of orientation.

It's an easy fix. There's lots of alternate fan shrouds for the UM2 available to print that are head-and-shoulders better than the stock one.

Still annoying. Is this true even with the Skirt set to 0?

The issue is the new fan shroud. The original has the fans at an angle while the new one has the fans sitting face-down, taking up more overall area in the XY plane. They had to shrink the X axis down in the build volume or the shroud would butt up against the interior wall of the printer.

It stays true even with the skirt set to zero. The bottom frame cannot lay flat and still fit in the build area for the UM2+ with its normal settings. Using an alternate fan shroud that angles the fans and editing the build volume in the slicer fixes the problem just fine.

So, what's everyone using for door pins? I'm thinking of cannibalizing a coat hanger, myself.

Awesome job, cant wait to finish printing it. Do you think the full side rods should have screw holes in them?

Doh! I accidentally uploaded the pre-booled version. Fixed - uploaded full version with holes.

OK, is it me, or are "bottom frame" & "bottom frame - motor" exactly the same? If I'm wrong, where the heck does the motor mount, er, mount?

Nope, motor version has a bigger hole in the back to allow screw to pass through. When using the motor mount a longer screw is used on the rear axle that goes into the mount and holds it in place. Working on assembly guides which will make it clear.

Thanks for sharing! Also, love the videos. Great stuff.

So cool, thanks for sharing!

It's sweet how the layering of the 3d printer makes it look like its made out of brushed blackened aluminium/steel.

Adds a lot of detail for no extra effort.

As you already know! Fantastic Job, Glad to see you more on tested.

Yea, I saw this on tested and thought it was awesome. I also saw your scuttle fish video and might print it.

As a fellow GBFan and prop modeler, let me just say that this is beautiful work. I cannot wait to get started on this!

just watched this on tested, awesome work.

Truly amazing work! Thank you for sharing!

Hey Sean! I'm a friend of Frank Ippolito and I have a 1:1 Slimer (cast from Steve Johnson's shop molds https://flic.kr/p/zPvEop ). I want to incorporate a trap into the base. I have some plans for electronics, but I would love to know what you did with the e-cigarettes to make the smoke!

I'll be writing an electronics guide soon and have some kits for smoke, doors, etc. Will keep everyone posted.

Nice job... Amazing work!

Hi, does this really catch ghosts?

Only 3D printed ones.