Droid Dome - R2D2

by mrbaddeley Mar 6, 2016
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Hello mickael first of all I would like to congratulate you for your work. I allow myself to write to you because I encountered a problem with the printing of upper pie V1. I printed everything in V1 because I was afraid that my ender 3 is too small for v2. The parts of the upper pie are without support and I can not print them even by automatically adding the support with cura. The v2 files are only slightly smaller than the v1 so you can not take them. Can you help me by giving me the original files to modify them and create the supports or you can already be the files with support.
Thank you for your answer and congratulations again.

Is this csl or CSR measurements ? Is it compatible with astromech build kits?

What infill do you recommend for the dome base parts?

Your talent is exceptional matched by your patience, unfortunately I lack in the patience department.
Good luck !

Hello. How does the ring bracket work? I have the complete dome and rings all done but I'm at a loss on how the bracket works. I found where they fit onto the supports on the inside, but the head won't turn if I mount them like that. Please help at your earliest convenience. Thank you much.

Just getting started with this build. I would like to print the dome all in one piece is there a remixed cp of this with all the dome pieces together?

Beginner with 3D printing, was looking at the Anycubic i3 Mega. Anyone have any experience with this one? I'm to the point on my R2 build where I need to create my dome and many other parts. Since I've spent a ton of $ already on this build, need to be a bit economical for the 3D Printer I need to get. Thanks for the feedback!

I have the anycubic i3 mega and it is a great choice but if you can I would recommend the reviews tornado or cr10 for the extra build volume

Since I only need to print the dome and some body and leg details, would the Anycubic be able to print all the files needed? Worst thing would be getting this and finding out later that some parts are too large for it. Thanks for the recommendations on those other two printers, checking them out now.

Having a problem...Printed upper and lower rings put them together and they do not match up with the dome pieces.The rings are a larger diameter. DIdn't resize anything. Thanks, Eric

Hi Mr. Baddeley,
I'm just starting R2D2, beginning with the dome, and I would like to add all of the moving parts and lights, but am not an expert on that mechanical stuff. How should I go about that? I don't want to start glueing parts together and then realizing that I have missed the opportunity to add lights and motors.


Hi, firstly make sure you use all the one drive files shared via my Patreon site. They’re freely available (subscription is optional) and they come with instructions. I’ve stopped using Thingiverse. There’s mounting and mechanical parts on the OneDrive share. Also there’s a forum linked to it with loads of people who are building the droid sharing tips on mechanics and electronics. https://www.patreon.com/mrbaddeley The builders club (Astromech.net) is another great resource.

Hi. Sorry. Where is this Forum you were talking about? And how did you control everything from 1 remote?

Hi, the forum is https://www.3dprinteddroids.net.
I use the Padawan 360 control system, google it and you’ll see how it comes together. Basically it’s controlled through an xbox360. I would recommend using the latested files through the Patreon / OneDrive share, join the forum (and join Astromech.net). This will answer all your questions and you can see other build along with instructions etc. and best of all, it costs nothing and it’s a great community.

gibt es vorlagen für die elektronik und zubehör?

Hi Michael,

Thank you and thank you again for these files! You are amazing, sir!

I hope you might be able to help me, though. I've been to the OneDrive share and all through it trying to find instructions for how to assemble the various pieces. The dome I'm sure I can figure out, but the body and legs... I'm less sure of. :)

Might you be able to provide a direct link, or a hint? LOL. I checked out your Patreon as well, but didn't see anything like instructions or a diagram there either. Maybe I didn't scroll back far enough as it looks like you've been busy!

I'm sure I could puzzle through all of this myself but I'd hate to make a wrong step and have to start over on something like the frame or a leg...

Thanks in advance in any case. It's amazing of you to share this work!

Hi, OneDrive link is on the ‘about’ text in Patreon. Top level folder is instructions_notes and in there is all thev2 assembly instructions.

Can't thank you enough!! Actually I think I'm gonna cry. :)

Subbed on patreon. Least I can do. I'm so excited to work on this!!!!

No worries. Check out the 3dprinteddroid forum also, worth joining as there’s loads of builders sharing experience.

All right, I figured out how to open the 123dx files in Fusion 360 thanks to Professor Youtube, and I think that at least this will give me a starting point. :)

I love these files!!!

Hi if I already printed your V1 dome off thingiverse will your V2 lower rings still work with it?

They will indeed, and it’ll work with v2 body and it’s more accurate.

How're you doing!? Could you tell me please the final diameter of the dome? I made this R2 unit out of cardboard but it's 4 or 5 milimeters bigger than the original one. The dome is made out of a half styrofoam sphere. Now that I have my 3d printer I want to print the whole dome but I don't know how to scale the pieces so as to get a diameter of 46 centimeters . Could you give a hand with that? Thanks in advance!!

Do you have any other pics for the upper / lower ring install? I printed version one and version two now and neither one has info on how they should be installed.

Comments deleted.

After a very long wait i have finally got my anet A8 printer up and running i am just looking at your panels for the dome on Cura do you just put supports in where it touches the build plate or everywhere?
Sorry for all the questions

Hi I'm new to the world of 3d printing but I'm looking forward to trying this R2d2 dome where is the version 2 you mention and how much filament does it use?
Cheers in advance

Hi Richard, the Thingiverse files are the first version (really a test). I've shifted all my work to my Patreon page. Version 2 of the full R2D2 is shared (in modules) via the OneDrive share. All files and instructions are shared freely, if you'd like to become a Patreon you can subscribe from a dollar a month for early access and loads of help but you really don't need to. The free share has all the files and instructions available as I release modules. Link is https://patreon.com/user?u=4294285 the OneDrive link is in the 'About' page. The Thingiverse files are all superceded by the OneDrive share so please use the latest files. Any problems im me.

Many thanks for the link i have been looking at the panels and also all the instructions whic look very comprehensive. Being very new to the world of 3D printing im still waiting for my new Anet A8 to arrive i have a couple of questions if you don't mind me asking?
1 how much filament do i need?
2 will the mk2 panels fit my machine i have been playing with cura and i can't seem to make them fit
many thanks regards

Hi, they'll fit a 200x200 bed and the a8 seems to be 220x 220 so should be fine. You'll have to print on the right orientation, not familiar with cura but most slicers have a 'place surface on bed' and rotate so sure it will work. It'll be a steep learning curve but it's also very rewarding when you get there. Filament wise, it's about 3 rolls for the dome (just over 2) and I'd guess between 7-9 for the body. It's modular so just print one piece at a time. Always use the Patreon files as they're most comprehensive and up to date.

Thanks for your help and advice sorry to be a pain but am looking forward to making my own R2.

Many thanks for your help and reply I'll check out the link you sent.

I have a question about the lowerring and I can't seem to find any answer in the comments or in astromech forum. Why is there a lowering and a loweringwider? Isn't the lazy susan size the standard 17 3/8" ? http://www.rockler.com/lazy-susan-heavy-duty-swivel

Hi.. it´s because of the "generic 18"" lazy susan from China that some of us get.. since it is very expensive to get the Rockler one in some coutries.. the chinese is more afordable. But, it is a little bit wider, and does not fit the inside of the regular ring. So our big friend Mike made a version with thinner walls to acomodate the chinese Susan!...

I'm also looking at a similar chinese lazy susan. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/450MM-18INCH-Stainless-Steel-Dining-Table-Lazy-Susan-Turntable-Swivel-Plate-Kitchen-Furniture-Heavy-Load-Smooth/32464405316.html Is this it? So if I use this 450mm I should be printing the wider lower ring correct?

That's it!

Anyone successfully printed this at a lower scale?

I would like to print it at a lower scale to speed up print, lower material cost, make all parts fit in my printer, etc, but most importantly I don't have room for it at full scale once finished. :)

I would like to print at 50%, but i guess that's pushing it a bit, so I'm thinking scale 2:3 (67%).

I would like to automate it later on and I havn't found any designs at a lower scale that can be automated.

I have got a half and third scale dome in my Patreon share, freely shared on my OneDrive. https://patreon.com/user?u=4294285 For the links.

Hi, im building the dome now as we speak and want to build the complete model, but are there also build instructions on how to assemble it? and what kind of hardware to use to make it automated???

Where did you get the specs for this thing?

I've been with these Astromech guys for several years and all the files Micheal has here correlate with their specifications https://astromech.net/
as well as James Brutons XRobots files https://github.com/XRobots, cheers Jace

Comments deleted.

Thank you for sharing this with us! making it for more people possible to create their own R2D2! - thank you.

i do have question, im printing the parts for the dome, printed all the R2D2DomeBase parts in PETG with success.

i start now with the 'upperring' , I almost finished printing those parts, but they do not match/fit with eachother.
'upperring1' and 'upperring2' are different in size compared to 'upperring3-6'
1,2 are wider and have vertical connecting holes, 3-6 are narrow, horizontal connecting holes and i feel more stronger and better to print

did you redesign these parts? which to use? do I need to get updated parts?

Keep on the good work!

Hi there, the rings are all the same size so I'm confused as Jabba mentioned. Can you send pictures. The dome and rings have been printed many times and this is the first time I've had this raised?

Thank you for your quick reply, i can mske pictures at daytime- gettinv late now ;-)
But you can see the items on thingiverse, there i see the same, maby those files not all up to date?
I like the parts 3-6, no much overhang, good to print. Part 1, 2 more overhang.

As they are all similar i can also print part 3-6 instead 1,2. But they miss a motor mount i think

I've checked the files and they're the ones I originally uploaded in March 2016. I've since printed the full dome myself from the files and checking the makes a number of people have built their dome so really lost as to what the issue is. Jabba also checked so please post some pics on the build section and I'll take a look.

Sorry Sorry Sorry..

its my fault, i made mistake, I printed Lowering1.stl and Lowering2.stl, and then I thought I was working on 'upperring.stl'- so I printed part 3-6 and these do not match...

Its a lot to print and spread over many days, thats how I mixed up these parts, I had to check better...

Sorry again,

No worries, glad we got to the bottom of it :-)

Check out version 2, it's a lot better for the body legs etc. I've moved my designs away from Thingiverse as it's a grey area with the R2 builders club. https://www.patreon.com/user?u=4294285 all files freely shared and there's instructions!

yes thanks i see the mistake I made and proceed printing ;-)

ok thank you, I will follow the parts and build instructions via your patreon site. in beginning i was not sure if my printer could print well to do a R2D2. recently I use heated bed, 75degree and 245degree PETG and prints like a charm now :)

Petg is lovely to print with, just hard to find a glue which works with it :-)

Was reading through these comments, eager to get started. Weldon 16 works amazing for PETG, if you want something that a little less runny than Weld on 3 or 4. Just give it time to cure (I suggest at least 24 hours. The E22 I made was pretty darn solid;probably broke more peoples knees than greeblies when I let my friend's kit play with it). =-D

So we should go over to your Patreon page then to get started, and go from there we go to one Drive? This will be my first droid project (though I'd rather do a mouse first). Regardless I'm down to donate, I just wanna know where I should start. :)

I downloaded the parts again just to be sure, but I don't really see a difference between upper ring 1-2 and 3-6, and these seem to be the same as the ones I printed for my dome. They don't seem any wider or narrower than each other. There is a difference between the lower and upper rings though.

great work! many thx. but which dome i had to print for a CS:L R2? This dome or your V2 Dome? And which hinges to u use? regards

Comments deleted.

How DomeBoardBracket.stl is used? Where it is established?

Another question!!! And.... the buttons, should fit on domebase7 holes? It seems the flat part of the buttons is bigger than the hole.... maybe i'm wrong?

Hi!!!! Can you tell me please the difference between domebase5 and 5b?

Sorry, same part just put two options up as people had problems with the original file. (Error in the mesh).

For folks wanting to look @ building droids, there's astromech.net for lots of tips.

Astromech.net is superb, and a great community of helpful people. I will be posting most of my designs there in the future. (User Mikon1).

Apologies if this has been asked before, is there a construction guide anywhere i might have missed? Fantastic model by the way. I'm about 30% printed so far.

Hi, I share all the 123d design files in a link in the description. These give you a full view of the build. You need 123d design but it's free to download.

ah thank you, i'll grab it now.

Using your Radar eye - Fantastic! Thanks!

I dont know what it is, but R2D2DomeBase5 will NOT print for me successfully. about half way, the right side always snaps, and then its just a disaster. tried it 4 times with various different settings, with no luck. at 19 hours for that part, i cant attempt to print it anymore.

I had a problem printing this file too. I ran it through Netfabb and found it has a couple of holes which weren't a problem to fix (with Netfabb).

I can rework the part with a support in the 'holes' if you want another go to add extra strength. I've not had any other issues with that part.

hi can you send me that too please? i have been having a little issue with panel 6? some weak point/hole? is it just me? thankyou, so far the rest is going great thankyou

Hi, checked 6 and can't find any issues although it is a big bridge so I would print this one with supports.

I've just updated the Thingiverse files, just download the latest version of 5. I'll check 6

Thanks so much . i will try, i only started printing this week! and i thought... who wants to make an iphone case>?! not me... lets go straight in with a full size r2d2! i have now printed almost half of it... very pleased so far. i would add a pic if i knew how?!

Brilliant, I salute you. I started exactly the same. Go big! And it's bloody good fun...

Strange. Have you printed the other dome parts successfully?

i have printed all the R2D2DomeBase 1-9 files with no issue, holoprojector, and pie pieces 1-3 and 7-8 with no issues. Just #5 is a pain in the butt. Im going to run it through netfabb and see what happens.

Also Mrbaddeley, the other files you have on thingiverse, like the body pieces, is there a way you can upload the arms, coin slot and other body parts without the large "flashing" on the base?

Hi, Really sorry about DomeBase5, I've just fixed it and reloaded. Please give that one a go. There was a structural issue which I've fixed in 123d design. I added the large flashing as I print in ABS and it minimises warping. The 123d design source files are available to strip of the flashing. If I get chance I'll try to upload clean versions.

Are your R2 designs just templates? I haven't seen any electronics in the posts here, so I'm assuming we have to figure out the electronics ourselves. Any tips for servos in the dome?

There's so many different ways for the electronics, my droid has lights, rotating dome, a couple of servos for utility arms and a 2-3-2 mechanism. It's a static (no feet motors). I used the teeces light kit for the dome and arduinos and servo drivers for the rest. I haven't posted the electronic part of this as this isn't my strength and there's lots of ways of doing it. Loads of well documented bits on the Astromech website.

Looks like 123D Design is no longer supported. attempting to open the files in Fusion 360 but its been importing for a couple of hours so far (Sigh)

I had just got the metal part of the dome printed & have started cleanup for assembly, was going to check the correct placement of the pieces...

I hope Fusion 360 finally imports, It's probably taking some heavy hammer from the 1,000,000's of users all importing there 123D files

Cheers, still using 123d at the moment, halfway through a huge project. 123d offline will work indefinitely so should be ok for this project and then onto 360.

I wanted to reply to your original comment in case you're still stuck or someone else has this problem.

As far as I know you can't directly open 123D files in fusion 360, that said, there is a work around. The youtube link below is the workaround that I found successful.


Hi, I'm not sure what you mean? I'm using 123d design at the moment and checked the website and it looks like it's still available and downloadable?

Ah, just seen the news.. not good.

However the standalone software will still work, just save locally. Got copies of the 64 and 32 bit installers.

Ah, just seen the news.. not good.

Has been 4 hours now and Fusion 360 hasn't imported a single file. I knew it was slow when I imported the E11 files I was working on, they took forever to import as well, Stupid cloud drive!

My standalone copy won't even let me log in, says my licence for the product has expired, I was using the free licence :-(

I reinstalled it and got it working again, think we got till March before they pulling the plug on the whole 123d family :-(

Excellent, will watch closely. On the comments they say that 123d will not be updated or supported but will still function. Keeping copies of the installer. Not used fusion 360 but need to find another cad package.

I use 3D Studio Max (because I have always used it from it's very first iteration on the Atari ST) and Design Spark Mechanical, but I understand Fusion 360 is pretty good if you can figure out how to use it (I never have the time to spare)

Me too, but it still works, strange. Mind you I only ever used local files. Very annoying if they've cancelled it with virtually no warning.

Me too, but it still works, strange. Mind you I only ever used local files. Very annoying if they've cancelled it with virtually no warning.

Have any of you seen this before? It appears that once the pillars were reconnected at the top, the cooling/shrinking of the part caused the whole thing to cave in. I'm printing ABS on a FlashForge Creator Pro at 230/110 and its fully enclosed so nice and hot in there. Any idea what I can do to stop this?


Hi there,
Yes I have seen similar. It's a problem with printing curved pieces stood up in abs. Basically I think the shrinkage on a curve causes the wall to move back or forth. Without the curve the effect is much less or virtually negated. I find the base adherence really makes a difference. I use abs and acetone to create a thin film on the bed and also use helper discs (thin discs at each corner). This works for me. I also use an enclosure.

Thanks for the response. My printer is fully enclosed so the heat shouldn't be the issue. The edges did curl up probably from the same problem. I'm currently reprinting the piece in PLA to see how it compares to the green ABS print I linked. I think PLA shrinks less, but I'd prefer the strength of ABS. I'm also using a raft with the PLA version, which I didn't do in ABS. There's a lot of time to invest printing these pieces so I just want to be sure I have my settings nailed down before I start.

Yeah, I guess PLA will be better (less shrinkage) but personally much prefer ABS for both strength and chemical welding with acetone. ABS shrinkage is worse on larger curved parts. First noticed if on a BB-8 I printed. The helper discs definitely improve things, the better overall base adherence the less 'wobble' you get on the wall.

Yeah, I may try one more ABS run with a raft. So you'd rather acetone them together than use something like a plastic epoxy? I feel like epoxy would fill gaps better and give a stronger hold unless you can really get a thick slurry of acetone and ABS.

Are these helper discs an option with certain print software? I'm using Simplify3D.

Also, it seems like your replies are getting posted 3 times.

Certainly do some tests but I've built over half dozen helmets, BB-8 and The full R2-D2 with chemical weld. When it's full set if you try to break it the plastic often goes before the joint.

Helper discs are on my makerbot software but I think also are available as files just to import into your slicer software as another model, then just overlap.

Multi post seem to be an iPhone issue and my pressing post once too often :-)

Hi there,
Yes I have seen similar. It's a problem with printing curved pieces stood up in abs. Basically I think the shrinkage on a curve causes the wall to move back or forth. Without the curve the effect is much less or virtually negated. I find the base adherence really makes a difference. I use abs and acetone to create a thin film on the bed and also use helper discs (thin discs at each corner). This works for me. I also use an enclosure.

Hi there,
Yes I have seen similar. It's a problem with printing curved pieces stood up in abs. Basically I think the shrinkage on a curve causes the wall to move back or forth. Without the curve the effect is much less or virtually negated. I find the base adherence really makes a difference. I use abs and acetone to create a thin film on the bed and also use helper discs (thin discs at each corner). This works for me. I also use an enclosure.

Hi there,
Yes I have seen similar. It's a problem with printing curved pieces stood up in abs. Basically I think the shrinkage on a curve causes the wall to move back or forth. Without the curve the effect is much less or virtually negated. I find the base adherence really makes a difference. I use abs and acetone to create a thin film on the bed and also use helper discs (thin discs at each corner). This works for me. I also use an enclosure.

Hi there,
Yes I have seen similar. It's a problem with printing curved pieces stood up in abs. Basically I think the shrinkage on a curve causes the wall to move back or forth. Without the curve the effect is much less or virtually negated. I find the base adherence really makes a difference. I use abs and acetone to create a thin film on the bed and also use helper discs (thin discs at each corner). This works for me. I also use an enclosure.

What is the overall inner diameter of the head completely assembled?

Hi, it's 1:1, 463mm across the dome, taken from blueprints

Thanks! Also what is the print size capability that i would need for printing these pieces? Like what size printer would I need?

Thank you very much for this great job. I'm a fan of star wars since my childhood. I almost finished printing all the pieces. But I have a question about electronics. I bought the card ardunio and adafruit but I can not find the adapter 12v -5v with the lipo. Can you give me the reference of the piece you have to buy. Thank you

Thanks you!
I would post the pictures when I finished

Hi again,

I can't find a Makerbot in my area that prints with ABS. Will this work with other brands of printers such as Strategist or PolyBot printers? Thank you!

Hello, indeed can be printed on any printer with a bed big enough. The makerbot is 254 x154 in mm

You have the RAL colors of the gray and blue for this.
thank you

Hi, I used an aluminum spray with a clear lacquer top coat (it does slightly dull the aluminum spray but rub n buff can be applied afterwards to bring it back. The blue I used vauxhall regatta blue but there's more accurate paint references in the Artoo builders club to check.

Hi again,

I downloaded the files and I would like to preview the files before we print them. What program do we need to open them?

Any STL viewer for the objects. I use 123D design, which will also open the original design files (link on the dome description).

How much filament did it take to print out the dome?

Hi, it's not a great deal, I think 3 or 4 rolls maximum! I used ABS as it's easier to glue using Acetone (and it's what I'm used to)!

I have a question...

Is this compatible with Astromech.net's CS:L/CS:R specs? Thanks!

Hiya, the design is from the CS:R spec (blueprints) from an external perspective. The fittings and internal mount points are designed for the printed droid but I think it works as a stand alone build.

Thank you, that makes me feel so much better about this.

Can anyone tell me exactly the size of the rings? So I can measure my prints and try to find witch part is not correct (if is the ring, the dome base parts or the panels..)

ok.. sorry to bother you guys.. but I cant figure out whats going wrong.
I printed all the panels in PLA now. using the same printer with the same settings.. and, if I try to align the panels with the upperring, I get a ONE centimeter(!!) gap between panel 8 and 9 !
should I just fill the gap with some epoxy and move on, or am I missing some step ?
any clue ???
thank you!!!

Something it's clearly wrong... all the parts should fit without major problems, maybe 1 mm here or there but not 1 cm


Is there a particular face of the uppering where the panels should be glued ??
I'm glueing at the face that contains the numbers printed on... not shure if that could make some difference...
Here's what I'm getting.


that half of the dome has 9 parts, if each part is smaller with 1mm and bottom ring is bigger with 1-2 mm here is your 1 CM gap.

Which is very possible, since there are 6 pieces to the bottom ring and 9 parts to the lower dome.

Tevans: have you calibrated your printer (making sure a 50mm part prints at 50mm)? It looks like you are having issues with your Z axis also.

Well.. it is a brand new machine. Just came from the factory, and they told me that it is calibrated. But I'll check it too.
Can you tell me the exactly size of your he ring? So I can mesure that and see if my prints are different...

My lower ring is about 465mm in diameter,
upper ring about 466mm
first layer of the dome is measuring at 468mm, but it's not glued together yet (just clips) so I expect it to be around 466 once aligned and glued.

If your machine is using belts, they will stretch, especially when new - this will throw your calibration off. With new belts, I would adjust belts and re-calibrate every 12 - 24 hours of print time until you notice little stretching in the belts (usually 3 or 4 calibrations). If machine is using screws (or threaded rod), then calibration really shouldn't change too much once set.

Well.. since everything was printed on the same printer, all in PLA now, and with the same settings.. can't see how it could be shrunken in different rates...
Don't know how to fix that...mabe printing the rings again, but a little bit smaller.. lets say.. 5%.. what you think?

Hi, if the calibration is out, this can cause the x, y and z to distort. So depending on the orientation of the print on the bed you can get different rates of shrinkage or enlargement. All sounds like the calibration is out on one or two axis.

i don't know.. that will be a problem when you print the body, will not fit the dome ...

Can your u tell me the size that the ring should be?

Hi there, best way to check (and give you lots of points of measurement) is to open the 123d design file in 123d design. (Free download and the designs are linked in the dome description). In the software there's a measure tool (top right) which you can select any two points or faces and it shows the distance in mm or inches dependent on settings. This lets you check all the parts against the printed ones. I would also print a thin bar on the x axis, y axis (just short of bed size, maybe 150mm)and a 50mm high rectangle to check the x,y and z calibration. Even though it's a new printer and calibrated on big prints it may be off, so worth checking.

Thanks! I'll do that as soon as I get home!!

Yeah... I know... I just can't figure out what could be...

I'm trying to figure out how to post pics here... LOL.. (links at the end)
meanwhile, I'm printing again (this time in PLA) one of the panels I made in ABS to see if there is too much difference in sizes..




Hi mrbaddeley.
now i'm facing another problem here... once I tried to glue the Panels together, well they do not fit.. the last up panel (dome pie 5) seems to be about 4mm wider than should be (I'll post a photo)...
plus the upperring looks a little biger than the dome...
since I made 3 of the panels using ABS instead of PLA (because I run off PLA for some days..) do you think this can be the cause ?
I mean, I know that abs tends to shrink a little bit.. but that much ?//

Hi there, unfortunately I've no idea, I printed mine completely with ABS, the fit was good. I know ABS and PLA shrink at different rates so it could be that you're mixing the two but I wouldn't expect that much of a gap. Post a pic and I'll take a look. The files are fine and there's a few completed domes now so think I can rule that out. Have you calibrated the printer (print out 20x20x20 cube and check the x y and z sizes?). This can affect prints fitting together.

First I have to say: thank You!! its an wonderful job you made. I'm so happy exchanging my old wood and foil dome for a brand new 3d printed one!! and I have a question.. its about the "rings", uper and lower... in the videos, one looks double the height of the other. but when I printed them, they're the same... whats the trick ?...

Photo comparing the two https://1drv.ms/i/s!AjIlFUf9uEzogZ1bZrm5Y-0dNaZWeg mine is the top one,the bottom one from the museum.

Hi Tevas, I have also questioned the rings, looking at the movies there seems to be differences, some where the upper (blue) ring is much smaller than the lower silver ring and others where the height is virtually the same. I took the dimensions from the club blueprints, where the upper ring is very slightly shorter. The best reference images I've found are from the California museum where it looks very similar to my printed dome http://www.artoo-detoo.net/gallery/v/events/california_museum_hall_of_fame/ I have also heard people reduced the height of the blue ring or filed a gap / changed the design around the base of the blue ring to make it shorter. Take a look at the images and see what you think.

Thanks! It's really difficult to say witch one is the "correct"... so, I think I'll go with your design, that looks beautiful!
Thanks again.

This may be one of those things that fluctuated from shot to shot or movie to movie. I do think that the blue ring should always be smaller than the silver -- it's a question of how much. Below are shots I took from all three OT films. In ROTJ the blue ring is extremely thin, while it appears to be a bit thicker in the others, but some of this might be an optical illusion. In the end, since I'm making a sort of idealized version that contains the parts that I like from all the films, I decided to make the blue ring quite a bit thinner, since I just like that look better.


Love this build and thinking about starting it. However before starting, I want to make sure I'm clear on how the dome mounts to the body. I've read through some of the related comments and I still don't feel like I understand how the mechanism works. Could you post a few pictures (or video) of the dome attachment to the rest of the body? Or do you know of anyone who has done so (I haven't been able to find anything)?

There is a clip that holds the lower dome ring onto the head turning gear.


The motor and idler gear will hold the head turning gear to the frame.

Oh so most of the mechanism is in the body section. Thanks this helped a lot

Any thoughts on using PLA? ABS and I have never really gotten along.

Thanks for all the info. yeah ABS and PLA are pretty much the same price here. Jace1969 ABS might print better for you im guessing your probably a pro at this and know how to use to it and know your settings. Im still new to Printing so i know this plays a big part in how my prints are turning out especially with ABS. I also dont have a enclosure for my printer. I think that might play a part as well. I do like how ABS prints when im able to print it but it seems like anything over a hour just forget about it. With the advice you guys gave me and with ABS being stronger i think it would be best to try a few round of ABS first and if it nothing else PLA would be a good fall back.

LOL, no no no! Not a pro at all ; ) My little $600NZ Wanhao printer has me pulling my here out all the time. And yes not every print is successful. I guess I can afford to be blahzay as the ABS is cheap. I don't have a closure per say, but the unit dose sit in an open case cupboard so does create its own little eco system. I have had and still am having an awesome journey printing Mrbaddeley's R2D2 and have just a few bits and bobs to go. But I have several projects on as well to keep me occupied and the center foot has yet to be finalised. My 3D design skills are dismal so at this stage I'm relying on MrBaddeley to come up with an ingenious way where if possible R2's shoulders connect with a central rod to help with the leg flex and stability. I have 3 partly hand built static R2D2's in the garage originally inspired from Victor Franco and the guys at the R2D2's builders club (8 years in the making) 10 months ago I stumbled across 3D printing and MyBaddeleys incredible work on this project has been inspiring to say the least. I couldn't pass up on having an R2D2 do the 2 - 3 leg movement. It is actually this project where by I have learnt most of my skills in using ABS. One of the coolest things with ABS & Simplify3D is even if a print turns to custard and you are 20hours in on a 60hour print. I just pop out my calipers, measure the amount of good finished print, chuck the difference/ waste into my slurry jar. Deduct the difference (measuring distance) from the original print carry on printing. Slurry it together like every other piece and your all good ; )
Hey, if PLA is no different in price and it works for you, Great ; ) But by all means give ABS a go. you will appreciate some of the benefits it has to offer : ) and on occasion you will be as frustrated as beggary ; ) Good luck!

ABS can warp and split and is not as easy to print with at times and is not organic like PLA, but I believe is stronger harder and lasts longer, is a breeze to glue together with the left over supports mixed in acetone. Bonds almost immediately, no waiting to glue the next piece in place and there is no extra cost in gluing material needed. PLA for me fluffs up when sanding, requires bondo or bog to finish and is more expensive $40.00 a roll compared to $4.00 a roll. ABS slurry can be brushed on and in most cases replaces a lot of filling and sanding and can give you a better smooth finish. PLA is difficuilt to get of the bed, where as ABS pops right off once the bed has cooled. There is no waste from ABS in the sense it is used again as slurry. For me ABS is definitely more economical on large prints cost wise and time wise. If I wanted to do a quick high resolution McDonalds toy, then I'd possibly use PLA ; )

I'm with the OP. ABS just does not print well for me at all. I find I have to print parts 3 - 4 times out of ABS before I get a usable part (or I give up all together). Maybe, once I get my heat chamber finished, I'll be able to print ABS more reliably, but (with PLA) I load the model, hit print and walk away.

$40 for a roll of PLA? Not sure where you're going, but that's majorly expensive. I can get it off the shelf at Fry's for $25 a roll, less than $20 when I can wait and use ebay. I'd like to start extruding my own, but that's another project for another day =)

Me too, I load the ABS and walk away ; ) ( No enclosure ) $40NZ is simular to $25.00 US : ) But $4.00NZ for a roll of ABS yea baby I can afford to print 10kgs a week : )

Wow! ABS and PLA is the same price in the UK

HI CAN U DO A life size bb8

I'm not doing a life size BB-8, there is already a builders club online with all the files available.

Sweet, yes, so like €15.00 of PLA a roll in Euro's and ABS €2.50 : ) or is that pounds? £14.00 & £2.20 ABS still very cheap : )

I think he's extruding his own ABS - way cheaper that way.

LOL, yes, sorry! I assumed everybody was making there own ABS too, including MrBaddeley http://www.filastruder.com/ the extruder from the US and Winder paid for itself in just a few weeks ; )

Yes I used PLA as well. I think it works fine but it is a disadvantage not to be able to acetone weld the parts together. I've been using epoxy glue but it's kind of hard to work with.

PLA will work fine. I just finished printing all the body pieces in PLA, currently putting them all together.

I use this glue for joining everything together:


I use a brush to apply a layer (from the can) on each piece to be joined and use the stuff in the tube on the butt ends - it's a little thicker, so it fills any small gaps. You have to be quick though, the stuff in the can only has a two minute work time.

I then use binder clips to hold the pieces together. Takes 3 days to fully cure, but clips can be removed, and hold is very strong, after an hour or so of drying time.

Wear gloves and do it in a well ventilated area.

Watch MightyJabba's video for ideas on how to smooth and paint the final assembly - I believe he made his from PLA also.

Someone recommended Weld-On #3 to me as well. Do you think #4 is better for this because of the (slightly) longer work time? Or are there other differences? I've never used either of them before, but they sound much better than epoxy for this kind of thing.

I haven't tried #3. If I was only using the Weld-On from the can, then it would probably work, but it takes me a few more seconds to apply the #16 from the tube on the butt ends (open tube, apply, close tube), so I can use the extra minute that the #4 gives me.

As I've been gluing the rings together for the body, I have found that I can start removing my binder clip clamps within 10-15 minutes - the hour dry time I mentioned in the above post is probably overkill.

What I like about the Weld-On is that it works with PLA pretty much the same way that acetone does with ABS - it softens the plastic and the two pieces actually bond together. While putting together the bottom ring, I accidently swapped two pieces. It had only been a few minutes since they had been joined, but when I tried taking them apart the layers split before the glue seam separated (had to re-print the whole thing).

I'm not a big fan of the two part epoxies, as I usually take too much time getting them mixed properly, which gives me less working time and/or more waste.

Anyone else having slicing issues with dome base 5 via simplify3d?

Just to jump in here, I did. I printed this twice with the same shrinking delaminating result. I ended up gluing and repairing this print and put it down to the thin side struts not being able to handle the forces that ABS dose during the shrinking process. But hey, maybe Simplify3D had something to do with its failings?

Hmm, I don't think I had any issues with that piece and Simplify3D. What exactly was the issue, jayjayn?

not a shrinkage issue but an issue on slicing. But i went back and played with the settings and I guess it was printing funky because of the settings on the layer height. In Simplify3d with nozzle 0.35 and 3 shells all around it would glitch out when I would set the layer height to .2mm but when changed to .21mm it fixed the issues.

thanks again though for the help, can't wait to finish the dome!!

Great work. What 3D printer did you use . Want to get a good. . You did amazing work

Hiya, I printed this on a single Makebot Replicator 2x using ABS. Although I did have some maintenance to do on the printer during the build. It's a big job as you can imagine.

is there a file for hinges

Hi, yes there's a file for the pie hinge. If you browse the images there's also a diagram of the hinge assembled. I added a control bar and servo bracket later which I use to open and close one of the pie sections.

thank you very much

Does anybody have a diagram or image of how the pie hinges work? If so can someone email them to me sgillikin@liberty.edu

Thank you so much for putting this out! I just tipped you. Do you have any kind of build guide? I'm still printing the dome so I have some time... I will go back and read all the other comments but a guide would be helpful; I'd be willing to pay for one.

Again, thank you for putting this together. It is an amazing piece of work!


Hi, I didn't write a build guide as I made it (a little too eager to keep going :-) but I have published all the cad designs in 123d design so reference and how it goes together is completely visible in those files (links on the dome description). Also MightyJabba has done a great YouTube video showing the build of the dome, again link on the dome description. Will try to put together a build guide though at some point to complement the 123d design files.

I want to get 1000 followers

Lol, what have you got worthy of following? : )

People PLESE follow me

Thanks for uploading this! I've been printing the dome now for about 2-3 weeks and I'm around halfway done. Always a great feeling to come home from work to see another completed piece and then to fit that piece into place. (although my only nitpick would be that the project would be even better if the dome base pieces and dome pie pieces slightly overlapped or had a peg/hole setup for better alignment. But it shouldn't be too hard to sand/fill any issue areas once it's all together)

One question though. I want my finished R2 to mainly be a static piece, but still have the dome lights/ability to rotate. And you've already stated the motor you've used, the LEDs, and that you used an Arduino; but do you have any additional information on how you set that up (what hooks to what, any coding involved)? I've never used an Arduino before and am just curious how much extra work would go into getting that set up.

And I agree about the keying on the dome, I'm a bit impatient so designed for me to quickly build and shared as I went. May go back and tweak the design as I've learnt loads since I started. Just built it for myself and shared as I went, didn't expect so many lovely people building my model :-)

Even without the keying everything is going together smoothly. It still amazes me that in your summary of the model you say it's your first attempt at 3D design, I would've never guessed that with how well made the model is.

Hiya, I'm fairly new to Aduino, but fairly easy to learn and set up. Loads of cheap modules to add extra functions are available. I bought them mainly from eBay. Grab an arduino Uno and a couple of LED and have a play. Happy to share my sketch (the programme which runs it) and jot the parts I've used. I'm on vacation at the mo, but can put some details when I get back. The bit I found the most challenging was power, eventually went for a 11.4v lipo and used a car 12v-5v converter to power my LED matrices. Like I said, grab an arduino and leds and give it a go. You'll soon get the hang of flashing lights and programming. I found loads of basic tuition on YouTube and the web.

Guess I'll have to give it a shot then. It shouldn't be too hard to make some LEDs blink and a motor run. Just as long as I don't burn down my apartment in the process, haha.

Just drop me a note of you're stuck on anything. I'll try to put together some notes once I get back.

Hi, as mentioned already by a lot of people you are doing a great job, already many thanks for sharing your work. I just started with 3D printing and already made a few parts of the dome. I was wondering about cables when the dome is rotating. Did you put all the electronics on the top of the dome or is there some tricks not to have cables twisted when the dome is rotating?

Hi, thank you. All the electronics for the dome on mine is run by an arduino and powered by a small lipo, all of which fits in the dome Independant of the body. I believe you can use a 'slip ring' but no experience of how to do that.

Thank you for your answer, I will start as simply as possible by fitting the arduino into the dome at first, I will see the 'slip ring' later on. In the meantime, I probably will make the arduino talking with the rest of the body (if needed) with wifi or bluetooth which seems to be less expensive but probably harder to implement.

THANK YOU, MrBaddeley! Looking forward to beginning this project! (Any chance of modeling an R5-D4 dome as well for variety? ;) )

Again, thanks and beautiful work!!

No problem, happily do a R5-D4 (after I've done the other bits for R2!) :-)

Beautiful work . congratulations. Please which diameter of the base ( cm ) of it ?

Hi, it's 1:1, 463mm across the dome, taken from blueprints

I'm close to being finished with my dome (well, still a fair amount of work left, but the end is in sight). So I'm thinking about what to do about the body. I just want a static droid (essentially a statue), but I do plan to make his head turnable. I'll probably also just go with the two-leg look for simplicity. Obviously, I wouldn't need to print the third leg in this case, but are there other parts of the body that I can skip as well for a static droid?

Hi, obviously the centre leg lift mechanism doesn't need fitting. there's a bar in the leg which moves it from 90 - 72 degrees but pretty much that's it I think. They'll be some more of the mechanical parts but I haven't designed the mechanism yet.

Just so I'm clear on how this works, the upper and lower rings should be glued to the dome so that it's all one piece, and then the dome rests on the body, but isn't actually attached to it?

Yes, there's a couple of clips which sit over the 4 posts which pertude from the geared ring.

yup, that's right, the dome sits on his own weight

I'm trying to figure out where to place the upper dome pie pieces in relation to pieces on the lower tier. Do they go 1-2-3-4-5-6 counter-clockwise starting with the front (the section where the radar eye goes)? Are the vertical support parts on the dome pie pieces intended to match up with particular joins on the lower tier?

Thanks to MrBaddeley, That's what I found! The vertical supports do line up with the top and bottom tier.
I found using Windows 10 free 3DBuilder program handy by opening all the files in one place gave you excellent options as to where all the pieces go and what order : )

Thanks! I figured that was how it should be, but I couldn't seem to get my parts to line up properly. Turns out I had mislabled several of them. Opening them all up in Simplify 3D at once helped me figure out how they are supposed to go, so I think I'm sorted.

Thanks guys, hope all is sorted now. The 123D design original files are available via links so if you open those it can help for any future reference. Obviously pop a comment on here and I'll always help where I can.

What are your thoughts about layer height? I've printed some of the dome sections at .03mm, since I figured they were relatively simple shapes and would be sanded anyway, and the one that I've sanded so far turned out well. But I thought I'd ask before I print everything.

Hi, I'm printing any external facing surface at .2 (to reduce sanding) and .3 for internal or mechanical parts.

I'm printing off a few pieces to see if I can get them to fit together properly. Am I right that Panel 5 goes into the opening in Dome Base 7? If so, I don't quite understand why the inner piece of Panel 5 is shaped the way it is. I've gotten rid of the thin support material, but the thicker parts on the back appear to prevent it from sitting flat against the dome section. Maybe I'm doing something wrong here...

Hi, apologies and you're not doing anything wrong. This is the only major flaw in the design, my fault when designing. I mean to go back and fix, but the fix I did was easy enough, just took a hacksaw blade (or dremel) and square that rounded hole (in the inner dome) fits fine after a little cutting. Really shouldn't have to cut it, I know. I just fixed mine and continued. Other than that you may have a little sanding on tight parts but nothing requiring adjustment or cutting.

Thanks for the quick reply. I can certainly use a rotary tool or something to fix it, but I wanted to make sure I was on the right track before I started cutting. By the way, I mentioned earlier that the largest dome pieces are too big for the Dremel 3D Idea Builder, but I was mistaken. Turns out they fit exactly, so I'm going to go ahead and print the dome.

Brilliant! I've added Dome Base 7 Ver 2 now with the corners squared for future downloaders.. All fixed and thanks for the message. Any further help just post a message again, always happy to help!

hello, what motor did you use for dome and what electronic for logic lights ? thank you

For the dome motor I used 300RPM 12V High Torque Electric Speed Reduce DC Gear Box Motor https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GN719FY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_66Zvxb30ZB481

i just ordered the motor , 6 Euro from china :D

Hi, the lights are 8x8 white LED matrix driven by a max7219 board (search max7219 on eBay). All controlled by an Arduino. For the rear, same with red led matrix (three side by side). Not the screen accurate Colour but a quick way of doing both front and back.

thank you, i already ordered 10 max7219 boards a few days ago but white matrix is expensive so i will replace it with 5x9 white and blue 3mm leds. for PSi i will try to use a neopixel ring but i need to write software myself.

for the motor i was thinkig the same but i wanted to be sure.

thank you.

p.s. i almost finished printing one leg :))

Superb, good luck and post some more pics, love seeing other prints! I've finished both legs and painted them, attached with 100 lazy Susan's. Just finished fitting the centre leg lifting mechanism and it seems to work well. Using two 8mm threaded rods with a timing belt and printed gears. Not motorised it yet but tested with a drill. Onto the feet now :-)

Superb, good luck and post some more pics, love seeing other prints! I've finished both legs and painted them, attached with 100mm lazy Susan's. Just finished fitting the centre leg lifting mechanism and it seems to work well. Using two 8mm threaded rods with a timing belt and printed gears. Not motorised it yet but tested with a drill. Onto the feet now :-)

Absolutely legendary! Have just started collecting parts for my first R2 build and was toying with how I could do the dome on my Replicator instead of buying a laser cut one.
Was keen to stick to the club spec but not skilled enough in 123D (yet) to design from scratch. Sharing the 123D files is hugely generous.

Many many thanks!

Thank you. I started the R2 design as a way to learn 123d design, frustrating for the first hour but love it now! A great way to learn design, engineering, electronics etc. 3D design and build has many advantages, weight is much less, mechanisms easy to custom build, all parts are available with only the print waiting time. Sanding and finishing is the only slight downside. Good luck and let me know how it goes. Mike,

Hello, first i want to thank you for your work. second... i have problems printing the lower ring, does not work without support, my question is: that channel have a purpose ? can you make it solid like upper ring ? thank you.

I also had cracking problems with dome base parts but i cut them all in half and worked well

Hi, i think you're referring to the half circle groove on the top ring? If so, it is the lower half of a lazy Susan for the rotating head (you put 10mm ball bearings in it). I printed in ABS on a makerbot with no support but if solid then the lazy Susan won't work. Also, had no issues with cracking but every printer is different and mine has an enclosure to limit shrinking.

i'm talking about lowering1-6 parts (i attached a picture). the big gear and everything else is coming out fine.

i'm thinking to make two identical upperrings and 4 triunghiular pieces to glue them to big gear.

can you please share 123d file for lowering1 and upperring1 parts ? i will make the modification myself

Hiya, got it! I've seen the pic. This was right at the beginning and I was saving plastic (I did use supports from memory). Here's the 123D files. https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=E84CB8FD47152532!15273&authkey=!AGa5uWPtHTWmVno&ithint=folder%2c

thank you, i made the part, i will print and test it then i will post a remix

This is incredible. I may have found my next project! A couple of questions. Would using PLA be an issue? Also, some of the base pieces appear to be about 10% too tall for my printer (Dremel 3D Idea Builder). Should I just slice them in two horizontally and glue them together? I could scale everything down a bit, of course, don't like the idea of putting a lot of work into something that wouldn't be the right size. Is your end goal to have an entirely 3D printed R2?

Hi, PLA would work also, I use ABS because I'm used to it, the acetone weld is quick and it's slightly stronger. However if warps and shrinks more that PLA. I build a BB-8 previously (full size) and most people use PLA for that so should work fine, just use crazy (super glue) to stick together. Slicing larger parts should also not be a problem. My goal is s full size (working) R2D2, I am using some printed gears, if you're thinking a working R2, I'm not sure on the strength of PLA as I've not tested it, that would be my only concern and there's only a couple (head spinning ring gear and drive gear for example) but I'm speaking from inexperience. Either way you'll definitely be able to print a full size droid.

What bed size is require to print this? Thanks a lot for posting!

Hiya, printed on a Makerbot bed (254 X 154) mm approx.

OK, thanks. I'll have to see if I can split it small enough for Lulzbot Mini.

Happy to share the 123d design files if it's easier to split?

That would be fantastic, thank you!

i've printed the blue parts. how do I get them into the silver parts. they don't fit nicely. Do I have to cut the back support off the Blue parts ?

  • shots from all sides would come in handy. Great model. Let me know.

Hi, yes all the supports need trimming off. I added them as I print in ABS and the supports really stop 80% warping to leave accurate pieces rather than ones with warping or bows. Virtually all the parts once trimmed should fit. I had one piece where I had to trim the dome back plate with a hacksaw, you'll know when you get to it but only takes two minutes. I'll post photos from all angles to show the final dome in a minute of if that helps.

Thanks for your advice thus far. I have completely printed the dome in ABS with a little warping here and there, but over all its in good shape. With a little filler and sanding I should be able to sort it out. I've just started to print what looks like the Dome drive gear from the body files as I cant quite yet get my head round how the dome floats on the printed bearings concept. I guess It will make sense once I have those bits printed, but I'm thinking of it like a lazy Susan. So I'm not seeing how the ball bearings stay firmly in place. Or is it they just sit there and the dome dose just actually float on top. Which would mean you could lift the dome on and off for easy access? Sorry I guess its a tough question to ask and or explain. Do you have any other reference of the rings of the dome attached to the body?

Hi, BracketRing now uploaded into the Dome Files, this clips the Dome to the Ring Gear.

Hi, yes it's a lazy susan mechanism. The frame has a half circle groove and the ring gear has a half circle groove which sits on top. I did try the printed ball bearings, they work but with quite a bit of "rumbling" as they're not perfect balls. I have since ordered some 10mm Steel Ball Bearings from ebay (very cheap) and added a little bearing grease / oil with a rather good effect, quite smooth and not too much noise.
So the dome sits on the gear, I've created a couple of plastic clips which firmly attached the dome to the gear (not uploaded yet, but will do). This means the dome is clipped to the gear, which rests on the frame holding the bearings. This still means that the dome and gear can be lifted off and the bearings are not held in place. My plan is the print two small gears, which attaches to a motor on one side and the other gear runs free on opposite sides of the frame. You will notice that the upper part of the ring gear has a bevelled edge, my plan is to create the small gear which is wider at the top, creating a lip which holds the ring gear in the frame. This will be on both sides of the frame (opposite), with the motor on one and the other free. Hope this all makes sense.

Brilliant, yes its starting to make sense. I'm very excited, as I can see it coming together perfectly. Just awesome : ) Thanks again!

Hi, here's a video with the motor fitted. https://youtu.be/mNOmDbJ9CVc

Oh that's very cool. Just brilliant! Nice to see it in action, cheers for the upload. I see now while looking at the files, I hadn't noticed the top body ring had the ball bearing race built in. It wasn't till I manipulated the file to see underneath that it started to all make sense. Just sanding and cleaning up the dome ready for gluing together. Started printing the body now :)

Just a tip, when you come to the ball bearings, use 10mm steel ones (off ebay), I tried the 3d printed one but it was rather "rumbly".

Thanks, I really appreciate your advice : )

In the main shot of the dome I really like the fact you have coloured the holo lens holder black, as the same as in ANH, where as its silver in ROTJ, ESB and Blue in the new SW Episode 7. The paper LED panel lens works a treat in the interim along with the overall colour scheme is a great rendition of the original. I'm pondering whether to leave my dome pristine or weathered. I like the grey silver with perhaps a lacquer finish. Would you mind indulging me in type of paints and colours you used to finish yours?

As for weathering, definitely, but I'm going to weather once I have the full body etc. for consistency.

Hi, I used rattle can sprays, Hycote XDVX208 Double Acrylic Spray Paint for Vauxhall 150 ml - Regatta Blue for the blue sections and HYCOTE XUK035 Aerosol Spray Paint 400 ml - Aluminium for the metal. All finished with a clear laquer. I have since fitted logic lights in place of the paper ones, using 8x8 white led matrix on a random flash, they look great, both front and back lights also are fitted (red/blue and green/yellow) all running of an arduino. Cheap solution using eBay. https://youtu.be/-gf5rWSiy-o

This is really well done and I'm loving having a go at printing these files. I'm maybe 50% of the way through but I'm struggling with file R2D2DomeBASE7 shows as 0 bytes once I extract all the files out. Could you please recheck and perhaps re-upload that file? I've tried to download it 3 times with out any luck. PS great work by the way. I look forward to following this project with huge enthusiasm.

Just perfect, I was downloading the files in a full zip capacity, but this one individual file came through perfectly. I appreciate your time taken to respond. I will upload my pics closer to completion. Thanks again!

Hi, are you downloading the whole zip file or individually. I've just tried the individual domebase7 (on my phone with a stl viewer) and it loads first time. Can't check the zip as I'm away at the mo, but the individual file seems ok.

Can you post a picture of a pie hinge? I'm not sure how the pieces fit together.

Hi, I've added a pic in the "pictures" of the 3D design (assembled). You need 2x3mm bolts and nylon sleeved nuts for the actual joint.

Hi, no problem, away at the moment but will take some pics and post when I get back. It does need two screws and nuts, 3mm I think ( or 4, let me check).

Thanks, that would be great!

Would it be possible to get the holoprojector parts in individual STL files, please?

All added, holopro-part 1 to 4.

Amazing! Thanks so much.

Hi, no problem, I'll try to get them added this week.

Can I know the dimensions of the dome ?

Fantastic design, I look forward to having my own working astromech :)

How many of the pie hinges do we need...one for wach pie?

Still working on the pie hinges, they're not quite right at the moment. I'm using Max 4 (you've got a holoprojector and the scanner which doesn't need them) but the stl posted does not work properly at the moment. Will most update in next few days.

Hi do you have a diagram of how this is put together?

Hi. I haven't but the parts are numbered. The lower ring (base) has the bracket to the bottom and the parts are printed with numbers on them (1-6), the upper ring sits on top of the lower (again printed numbers). The dome is in three "layers", the base layer is put together in order as they are numbered (files only are numbered). Inside are fins so you can match the second layer and finally the top pie section is glued in place. I used ABS with ABS "sludge" (Actetone & ABS mix) to glue together. The parts can be held together with Clothes Pegs. The Panels again are numbered in the files, starting the the front logic lights and working clockwise around. I used internet reference pictures for the painting and positioning. Some filling and sanding is obviously needed. then primer paint, main coat and I put a laquer on finally.

Truly Amazing and thank you for all your hard work, for 100's of years I've loved R2, now coupled with my printer I can actually start building him and have one of my own. KUDOS

Thank you, I've really enjoyed designing and making it, similar to you I've always wanted to make one and 3d printed is still a magical way of doing it! On to the body now...

Im sure you have been asked already but are also building the body? I know the official r2 club has files..but I'm loving the way you created this dome. So much easier to print out. I've already started it and half way to finish printing it

Hi, thank you and yes I am starting on the body. I am trying to make the whole thing just with 3D printing. I do want to try to make this functional (head spinning and movement etc) and I will share the results as I go. The body is a large design job :-).

Thank you. My father and i are definitely footwork. We weee going to use the xrobots.uk droid bodyb with your dome. Since we found someone here thsy made the skins and alot of the body parts can be foind at the r2 builderes club but we will be watching your build. Thank you again

Hi, yes I'm using the xrobot frame as a base, but modifying it and adding the skins (3d printed). Well, that's the plan! just working on the headspin mechanism at the mo.

I could eat my dinner off that, outstanding mate

Cheers Geoff, first design to learn 123d design rather than printing downloads. Pleased with the results.

just a question.. it is 1:1 scale, right ?
thanks again.

Hi, yes 1:1, 463mm across the dome, taken from blueprints.

So would this be considered accurate enough for the CS-R builds?

Hi, yes I believe it is accurate, blueprint taken from the club design and so far all the club 3D parts fit (eye, holoprojector etc. ) overall dimensions perfect fit.

yeah! beautiful job! i´ve been lokking for a way to build a better dome for years.. and now it´s here.
thank you very much!
just started to print.

No problem, it's a big print but possible in two reels of filament. Some parts may need a little sand to fit as I'm printed and building at the moment but working well so far :-)

Very awesome, printable and easy to glue with ABS :) cant wait for the rest

Cheers, added both rings and started to add the panels. I've printed the basic dome and it's turned out extremely well. Rings next for me.

Rings have holders on them what are they for ?

I'm currently printing it half size and the walls are a little to thin maybe a milimeter or 2 wider walls would be awesome :) otherwise everything fit's like a glove mine will be primed and painted :)

Put some holders in the lower ring so I have options on mounting to the body (potentially on bearings) but haven't got that far yet in the design. The walls are 6mm thick on full scale, any thicker would be too much on full size. I will see how easy it is to make the walls thicker for smaller prints.

Acutally its not the dome outer walls, they are absolutely fine, its the "feet" and the connectors between the sliced pieces that are a little too small :) 3mm walls is fine for half size, any smaller i would buy a model in toys'r'us :) lol

Ah, the supports for the panels are .6mm which would be too thin and the feet are 3mm, I can imagine they both would be a stretch at 50%.

No problem, just printing the dome at the moment, I've re-split the top pie pieces to fit on my printer (they're just a little too big) and will repost them soon. The panels and base rings still need uploading, working on the designs at the moment.