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buffcleb

Camera Rotator

by buffcleb Mar 7, 2016
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Nice design -- Thanks! I'm making one, but I may modify the motor mounts by making room for some NinjaFlex or NinjaTek Cheetah printed parts for shock mounting to reduce motor noise.
The 50x70x5 thrust bearings are $14.95 on that Amazon link. I found them for about half that price ($7.77) at https://www.vxb.com/Thrust-Needle-Roller-Bearing-50x70x5-p/kit8678.htm

again thats great... lots of times I order from Amazon because I'm lazy and have prime... I'll be sure to use those on my next beefer aluminum versions...

great find on those bearings... I'm going to be making a new one on my new CNC mill and give away the existing one to a friend so I need to order a new set... good luck on your build...

After watching your two videos about this unit I thought to myself 'that guy needs a lathe to make those metal shafts!". But I see you got a CNC mill. That's funny because I got my CNC mill before I got a lathe. I find both are indispensable. I have a 7x12 mini lathe that I converted to CNC. My mill is a Taig, which I also converted to CNC. But I think REAL machinists get a lathe before they get a mill. :)

I've been looking for a good pan & tilt design here on Thingiverse (and elsewhere) for some time and your basic concept is the best I've seen. I like the idea of the belt drive which eliminates the backlash when changing directions in geared drives, especially noticeable on the tilt axis with a relatively heavy camera (something bigger than a GoPro, for example). I printed your "top" and "bottom" parts last night in order to evaluate them, and I have decided to redesign from the ground up using your idea of toothed belt drive and modular construction for both the pan and tilt sections. My changes will probably be minor, but I think I can improve on making the parts more printer friendly, and also I plan on using a motor shock mount printed in Cheetah TPU filament. If I come up with something workable, I'll post it and be sure to credit you for the inspiration.

I have a south bend 9 from around 1940 but didn't have it when I designed and built this... I have a couple of mills now... a round column Jet mill and a CNC Masters Baron mill which is based on the rf45... I'm currently converting that to run on linuxcnc... I have it moving but need to get the limit switches changed... should be done in a week... then I need to run 220v to my garage for the spindle... I'm not a machinist by any stretch... just a hobbyist

I think the taig mills look awesome... they take up little space and are fine for the small aluminum stuff I tend to work on.... I just got a good deal the CNC Masters mill...

I'd love to see your improvements... this design has no problem lifting my Sony a77II... I've switched over from using the printed camera bracket to an aluminum one as there was some flex... and the 70mm mounting hub that supports that bracket would be much better if it was made from metal... lot of weight and stress there... it works out of plastic but sometime metal is better...

I've posted what I have so far in my remix at https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2973820
Still need to list the parts and add some instructions.

Pan & Tilt w/NEMA17 Steppers

Can't say yet if what I'm doing will be an improvement, but I'm giving it a go, and I'll definitely let you know how it turns out.
I'm also more of a hobbyist than a machinist. I use Mach3 to control both the lathe and the mill (one computer for each machine).

I agree -- metal parts are much preferred in many places, but I'm going to 3D print as much as I can in my version of the pan and tilt just to see how well it works. I'm definitely going to use aluminum shafts. I'm printing the toothed pulleys and the test belt I printed in NinjaFlex looks like it will work -- it's very strong stuff.

I'll be trying a Sony AX33 and AX100 on it -- both are sort of average "prosumer" sized cameras -- not too big. I really like both these Sony models.

I made the parts for my lathe CNC conversion on my Taig using the plans from Ron Steele (plans for sale at Little Machine Shop). One of the parts I cut was steel, the rest aluminum -- just took it slow on the steel part and the Taig managed it.

hello, what about the noise? how did you reduce that? my SM do a lot of noise, not good for a interview...

Nice design. I assume it can move quickly as well? I’m hoping to have something like this to take aerial photos at 90 degrees to each other 45 degrees off horizontal and 1 straight down, all within a 5 to 10 seconds, then repeat.

could u make a variant that works with 3mm thickness thrust bearings?

Note that the standard 50x70x5 thrust bearing full kit consists of a 3mm thick bearing and two 1mm thick 50x70 washers, so the standard 50x70x3 bearing you see listed on McMaster-Carr, for example, is called a 3mm bearing, but when you add the two washers, it's a total of 5mm thick.
Bearing: https://www.mcmaster.com/#5909k21/=1d383qy
Washers: https://www.mcmaster.com/#5909k81/=1d384no
But you can get the full set consisting of the inner bearing and two washers for much less here: https://www.vxb.com/Thrust-Needle-Roller-Bearing-50x70x5-p/kit8678.htm

Hi,

Love your design!!! May I know if this is still undergoing any changes? as you said in your youtube video that you still need to change some stuff

Also would like to know what belt you used and what screws for securing the parts to one another