Designed and modeled by myself.
Water is the most basic and most important thing for a good quality of life. You need to drink it, grow food with it, cook with it, wash with it, travel on it and there are so many activeties that use it. So idecided to make an all plastic (with some nuts and bolts) water transport device. This device can be used to move water out of rivers onto feilds, empty water out of containers and all sorts of usefull things.
This is a moduler Water Screw based on the Archimedes' screw. It has been changed to be built out of many parts allowing the length and design to be easily altered. The screw has been fixed to the inside of the tube so that water cannot flow backwards between the screw and the tube increasing its efficency. This does mean bearings have to be added to the supports to allow the tube and screw to turn.
This is designed to be built on a 3d printer with a build area of 200x200x200mm. It is recommended that bylon and ABS is used to make the model and isopropynol, M6 nuts and bolts are used to fix it together. A Wood screw is needed to fix the crank handle to the crank. This model can be easily scaled bigger or smaller though the crank and handles will need to be modifyed as they will get way to big or small fast. If you quarter the model reducing the print area needed to 100x100x100mm you can use M3 nuts and bolts to hold it together and it will be alot faster to print. On the negative side only a quature of the water will be moved per revolution.
I HAVE NOT TESTED THIS MODEL AS I DO NOT HAVE A 3D PRINTER. If you have made it and found a problem please contact me so I can improve the model.
This is entirely moduler so you can scale it up or down or change its length. I would reccomend putting a bearing mount every 5 body sections. More or lese can be used depending on size and situation.
The overall design should be strong. The weak parts are the crank and handles. They may need beefing up depending on use.
In this instruction I will assume you want to start off by building the model in the picture.
3D printer with 200x200x200mm build area,
ABS plastic (though clear plastic to see the water passing through would be cool),
Isopropynol or plastic glue,
M6 Nuts and bolts,
A very short shortened wood scew.
You may need to add rafting and support depending on printer and print speed. You should trim it off once models are printed.
Print out of ABS:
Print out of Nylon:
2x bearing inner,
2x bearing outer,
IMPORTANT: Aligning the body properly is required to make it work. You will notice half way up the body is my logo and on the other side the reprap logo is split in half at the top and bottem. To be assembled correctly the rep rap logo has to be formed everytime two pieces are connected to each other or there will be a break in the screw.
LOOK at pictures for referance.
- First screw the filter to the first body using M6 nuts and bolts.(make sure reprap logo is formed).
- Next put glue or isopropynol onto the rim at the top of the first piece of body and onto the central shaft and the flat part of the screw. line up (make sure reprap logo is formed) and place the next body piece on top then use M6 nuts and bolts to fix the two body parts together. If done properly the glue will stop water leaking out from the body sections and make the screw one long screw with no holes.
- Repeat step 2 until all body peices are on. DO NOT GLUE THE TOP RIM ONCE YOU HAVE ATTACHED THE LAST BODY PEICE.
- Leave to dry.
- Bolt on crank plate on top (make sure reprap logo is formed).
6, Drop handle (the short length not the long one) from crank model into the large hole on top, Slip ring onto the the handle on the other side so that if fixed in place the handle cant fall out.
- Use appropriate wood screw (probably needs trimming down) in hole in ring to fix it to the crank handle. The crank handle should now be able to rotate in hole but not lifted out.
- Next is the hard part.
- Remove bolts from body where you are adding the body handles and the bearings BUT ONLY WHEN NEEDED. You never need more than two bolts out at a time.
- For the handles, Two end peices slip onto the handle and can then be bolted on the in between the bolt holes of the body. (look at picture for referance.
- For bearings, Take the six curved peices from the inner bearing model and attach below the bolt holes of the body as shown in the picture using M6 bolts. The peices overlap so that one bolt will hold two peices at the end. The last peice may cause issue.
- Next bolt three of the four outer bearing pieces around the inner bearing ring.
- Load up all 34 V slot rollers per bearing and then bolt the last piece of the outer bearing on. The rollers are likely to keep falling out and assistance from a second person may be needed. Alternately you could use parcel tape and tape the ends of the rollers to the inner bearing ring so they cant fall out when putting the last part of the outer ring in.
Hey presto. It should now be finished.
For best results mount at a 30 degree angle with the bottem body section completely submurged in the water.
The filter should stop large objects getting sucked in and geting stuck in the screw bloacking it.
Remember to clean the inside once in a while.
Crank or turn using the handles in a CW direction to draw water up the screw.
If the bearings are too stiff, you can put a washer between each of the four sections of the outer bearing to increase the size of the outer ring. Add one washer at a time and then test. Do not make it too slack as it could make the bearing fall appart.