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Tantillus (Ultius) Compact Ultimaker Slider Adapters

by dintid, published

Tantillus (Ultius) Compact Ultimaker Slider Adapters by dintid Mar 16, 2016
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Summary

Updates 31th march 2016: Uploaded a Compact-Plus version of the back slider and rodclamp the first version collided with the right slider at the furthest back right 2mm position.

Why these sliders: Wanted to do yet a makeover of my Tantillus printer, and have decided to take it closer to the Ultimaker by embracing their sliders and in doing so, make it possible to use Ultimaker Carriages on the Tantillus. I Call my printer an Ultius Printer.

Features

  • Very compact and sturdy build!
  • Constructed for Ultimaker carriages.
  • Open ended GT2 belt usage
  • Using Ultimaker (8*11*30) bushings
  • Easy to change carriage if needed

Belts, Rods and BOM

  • 4x pieces of GT2-6mm belt with a length of 359mm each.
  • Duct tape or similar
  • 2x 6mm 147mm steel rods
  • 4x bushings Ultimaker 2 size (8*11*30mm). Ýou can either use Graphite Copper or Sintered Copper. Find them on Aliexpress
  • 8x 20mm m3 screws.*
  • 8x 25mm m3 screws.**
  • 16x m3 nuts.

*If you use the Compact-Plus option you need 12x 20mm m3 screws instead of just 8.
**If you use the Compact-Plus option you need 4x25mm m3 screws instead of 8.

Recommendations

My Inspiration
Aside from having build 3psc Ultimaker 2 clones, where one was a printed clone, I have looked intensively at the myriad of different Ultimaker and Ultimaker 2 Sliders out there.
The TwisterBlocks have been a special inspiration in this Projects, which is why I mention them here :)

Carriage used

I have used the E3Dv6 printhead mount for Ultimaker Original. You can use any carriage made for Ultimaker printers.

Print Settings

Printer:

JennyPrinter

Rafts:

No

Supports:

No

Resolution:

0,2-0,25mm

Infill:

40-100%


Notes:

  • I have printed these with 0,2 to 0,25mm layer height and infill ranging from 25 to 40 - I ended up printing at 100% infill for final parts as it really isn't that much more filament.
  • Perimeters I used: 2 times 0,4
  • Top/bottom: 0,6mm
  • Feel free to make them however you see fit, but above settings should be adequate.
  • I printed the first many versions in PLA with rather high temp to make bonding better.
  • I printed final version in ABS to make them heat-resistant in heatchamber

Post-Printing

Cleanup and preparations

  • Remove supports using a small needle-plier and _scrape_ off any leftover brims.
  • Run a 3mm drill through all the holes and make sure the screws run smoothly through. Especially important for the holes for the screws holding the 6mm rods in place!
  • Pre-set all the nuts into the sliders using a longer screw and a needleplier to hold the nuts if needed.
  • Be sure to insert the "Tight Clamp GT2" pieces (small pieces with teeth for the belt) before pulling nuts into the holes on top, or you can break the slider - Use the small notch to align them properly to the Slider.
  • You might want to put a small dap of superglue onto each of the nuts holding the "rodclamps", so as not to risk pushing them out when changing carriage/rods. They might sit very tight depending on your printer though, making it unneeded

Belts

Cut your GT2-6mm belt into 4 pieces of 359mm length.
The belts should end with a teeth (high) on each end.

For each piece of belt:
Note: this is just to keep the belt in place when fixing the Tantillus Tight Clamp GT2 in place.

  1. Cut a small piece of duct tape: around 20mmx6mm or so.
  2. Place one end of the belt halfway onto the tape.
  3. Match the other end of the belt onto the tape. (There will be 2 teeth right after each other. This is fine.)
  4. Place the newly created belt-loop with the piece of tape in a Slider with teeth pointing up/out.
  5. Put the "Tantillus Tight Clamp GT2" on top of the belt with the notch lined up with the notch on the Slider
  6. You are going to need some sort of plier to pressdown on the "Tantillus Tight Clamp GT2" in order to fix the screws through the mount holes

Remove support using a needleplier

Remove support using a needleplier

Put a 3mm drill through all the holes and make sure the screws run through smoothly

Install nuts using a longer screw, screwdriver and needleplier

Support the structure when installing the nuts.

Use a plier when installing the GT2 piece to hold the belts.<br>Make sure you install the bushing first.</br><br>If it is impossible even with the longer screw-tip you can use the smaller tantillus_tight-clamp-small_gt2.stl I uploaded the 18 march</br>

<h4>Assembly Step 1</h4>Start by sliding the right rod through from the right.<br>Add 1x thin spacer, 1x 5mm spacer, 1x GT2-20 pulley - hook over the belt of the BACK slider. Be sure to orient it correctly.</br><br>Now add yet a GT2-20 pulley and hook over the belt of the FRONT slider. Notice the orientation. Finish by adding 1x 5mm spacer and 1x thin spacer.</br><br>Take some time to makesure everything is right!</br>

<h4>Assembly Step 2</h4>Slide in the front rod from the lower (on this photo) side<br>Add 1x thinspacer and 1x 5mm spacer. Add a GT2-20 pulley and hook over the belt of the RIGHT slider</br><br>Put the rod through the FRONT slider and put on a GT2-Pulley</br><br>Hook over the belt of the LEFT slider (check orientation) and add 1x 5mm spacer and 1x thin spacer</br><br>Add top Corners as you go tostabalize it.

<h4>Assembly Step 3</h4>Slide in the left ord from the rear side of the casing<br>Add 1x thin and 1x 5mm spacer</br><br>Add a GT2-20 pulley and hook over the belt of the BACK slider</br><br>While pushing in the rod further you need to keep a hand on the pulleys so as not to ruin the belt and slider</br><br>Put the rod through the LEFT slider and add a GT2-pulley.</br><br>Hook over the belt of the FRONT slider and add 1x 5mm spacer and 1x thinspacer.</br><br>Take your time when doing this step. Almost done!</br>

<h4>Assembly Step 4</h4>Slide in the BACK rod from the right hand side of the case (lower side of this photo).<br>Add 1x thin spacer and 1x 5mm spacer</br><br>Add a GT2-20 pulley and put over the belt of the RIGHT slider</br><br>Keep the pulleys in place whiles sliding the rod further in</br><br>Put the rod through the BACK slider.</br><br>Add the final GT2-20 pulley and loop over the belt of the LEFT slider.</br><br>Add the final 5mm spacer and a thin spacer.</br>

Add/remove spacers as necessary if the belts are not perfectly aligned over and under the sliders.

How I Designed This

Used Tinkercad

Used Tinkercad.com as always. It's free and online :)

Custom Section

Recommendations

I'll recommend printing the corners I also just put up on thingiverse, which makes room for spacers between the bearings and GT2 pulleys.
This will make for much smoother running while holding the rods in place at the same time. Same as Ultimaker 2 printer.

Spacers
I used 8x Spacers, each 8mm inner diameter, 16mm outer diameter and 5mm thick. I also used 8 normal metal spacers, each 0,8mm thick.
You might need to add or remove spacers as needed in order to make the belts run directly over/under the Sliders.

Squaring the Axes
I recommend you print and use these two tools from Youmagine:
Adjustable Axis Alignment Tool
Ultimaker XY Axis Square

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I finished a Remix with a banana tensioner for my old ultimaker on the 12mm bushing. Thanks a lot.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2706999

Ultimaker XY block slider 12 with banana tensiometr

Please do list yours as a remix. It would also give you link from my object under Remixes + give my object the credit it should have.

Hi
I like the idea of a removable head and I want to do it. But I want a banana tensioner or something else. What do you think about this unit?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2706999

Ultimaker XY block slider 12 with banana tensiometr

Just please list yours as a remix to give proper credit and get link from mine.

Looks good :)

If I use this would I still have to drill holes in the rods?

No. Just don't overtighten the belts as I did a bit here :)

How does the belt tensioning work with these blocks? Great design. I might replace the blocks on my Ultimaker with these

These blocks are not directly compatible with Ultimaker as I have compensated for rod spacing, which is different on the Tantillus case.

My inspiration for making these blocks was some blocks for Ultimaker, which you might want to take a look at instead http://www.chopmeister.com/2013/12/twisterblocks.html

I mostly don't need tighetning really, but I have put on some standard gt2-springs on some of my builds. - same as the springs you would normally use to tighten these belts - Note the um2 uses slightly different springs.

Hello
please add also e3d mount for 12 OD bearings!

I'm not sure what you are asking for?

I posted which carriage I used in Descriptions:

Carriage used

I have used the E3Dv6 printhead mount for Ultimaker Original. You can use any carriage made for Ultimaker printers.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original

If you want bushings inside these sliders, then it can't work. It has to be Bushings.

I mean the version for LM6UU

But the one I link to is for E3D hotend and LM6UU bearings so I don't understand what you ask for?
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3dv6-printhead-mount-for-ultimaker-original

Was that what you were looking for? I just don't really understand what you tried to say.

thank you, I solved !!
I had not read the instructions carefully!

could you tell me cutting length of the two 6mm rods ?

Everything is listed in the "Things Details". You can use CTRL+F to search for something specific on the page if needed.

its a great design Im about to finish printing all parts, Do you have the Marlin files to get you Ultius to work?

Thank you :)
Yes, I do have the files, but it migt not fit yours, as I use fan extender with 2 automatic fans. I'm using GT2-16 on motors and GT2-36 on 8mm rods.

I also use PT100 sensor on hotend and silicone heater for bed :)

I have made a group for this printer though http://www.thingiverse.com/groups/ultius

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