Updates 31th march 2016: Uploaded a Compact-Plus version of the back slider and rodclamp the first version collided with the right slider at the furthest back right 2mm position.
Why these sliders: Wanted to do yet a makeover of my Tantillus printer, and have decided to take it closer to the Ultimaker by embracing their sliders and in doing so, make it possible to use Ultimaker Carriages on the Tantillus. I Call my printer an Ultius Printer.
- Very compact and sturdy build!
- Constructed for Ultimaker carriages.
- Open ended GT2 belt usage
- Using Ultimaker (8*11*30) bushings
- Easy to change carriage if needed
Belts, Rods and BOM
- 4x pieces of GT2-6mm belt with a length of 359mm each.
- Duct tape or similar
- 2x 6mm 147mm steel rods
- 4x bushings Ultimaker 2 size (8*11*30mm). Ýou can either use Graphite Copper or Sintered Copper. Find them on Aliexpress
- 8x 20mm m3 screws.*
- 8x 25mm m3 screws.**
- 16x m3 nuts.
*If you use the Compact-Plus option you need 12x 20mm m3 screws instead of just 8.
**If you use the Compact-Plus option you need 4x25mm m3 screws instead of 8.
Aside from having build 3psc Ultimaker 2 clones, where one was a printed clone, I have looked intensively at the myriad of different Ultimaker and Ultimaker 2 Sliders out there.
The TwisterBlocks have been a special inspiration in this Projects, which is why I mention them here :)
I have used the E3Dv6 printhead mount for Ultimaker Original. You can use any carriage made for Ultimaker printers.
- I have printed these with 0,2 to 0,25mm layer height and infill ranging from 25 to 40 - I ended up printing at 100% infill for final parts as it really isn't that much more filament.
- Perimeters I used: 2 times 0,4
- Top/bottom: 0,6mm
- Feel free to make them however you see fit, but above settings should be adequate.
- I printed the first many versions in PLA with rather high temp to make bonding better.
- I printed final version in ABS to make them heat-resistant in heatchamber
Cleanup and preparations
- Remove supports using a small needle-plier and _scrape_ off any leftover brims.
- Run a 3mm drill through all the holes and make sure the screws run smoothly through. Especially important for the holes for the screws holding the 6mm rods in place!
- Pre-set all the nuts into the sliders using a longer screw and a needleplier to hold the nuts if needed.
- Be sure to insert the "Tight Clamp GT2" pieces (small pieces with teeth for the belt) before pulling nuts into the holes on top, or you can break the slider - Use the small notch to align them properly to the Slider.
- You might want to put a small dap of superglue onto each of the nuts holding the "rodclamps", so as not to risk pushing them out when changing carriage/rods. They might sit very tight depending on your printer though, making it unneeded
Cut your GT2-6mm belt into 4 pieces of 359mm length.
The belts should end with a teeth (high) on each end.
For each piece of belt:
Note: this is just to keep the belt in place when fixing the Tantillus Tight Clamp GT2 in place.
- Cut a small piece of duct tape: around 20mmx6mm or so.
- Place one end of the belt halfway onto the tape.
- Match the other end of the belt onto the tape. (There will be 2 teeth right after each other. This is fine.)
- Place the newly created belt-loop with the piece of tape in a Slider with teeth pointing up/out.
- Put the "Tantillus Tight Clamp GT2" on top of the belt with the notch lined up with the notch on the Slider
- You are going to need some sort of plier to pressdown on the "Tantillus Tight Clamp GT2" in order to fix the screws through the mount holes
Remove support using a needleplier
Remove support using a needleplier
Put a 3mm drill through all the holes and make sure the screws run through smoothly
Install nuts using a longer screw, screwdriver and needleplier
Support the structure when installing the nuts.
Use a plier when installing the GT2 piece to hold the belts.<br>Make sure you install the bushing first.</br><br>If it is impossible even with the longer screw-tip you can use the smaller tantillus_tight-clamp-small_gt2.stl I uploaded the 18 march</br>
<h4>Assembly Step 1</h4>Start by sliding the right rod through from the right.<br>Add 1x thin spacer, 1x 5mm spacer, 1x GT2-20 pulley - hook over the belt of the BACK slider. Be sure to orient it correctly.</br><br>Now add yet a GT2-20 pulley and hook over the belt of the FRONT slider. Notice the orientation. Finish by adding 1x 5mm spacer and 1x thin spacer.</br><br>Take some time to makesure everything is right!</br>
<h4>Assembly Step 2</h4>Slide in the front rod from the lower (on this photo) side<br>Add 1x thinspacer and 1x 5mm spacer. Add a GT2-20 pulley and hook over the belt of the RIGHT slider</br><br>Put the rod through the FRONT slider and put on a GT2-Pulley</br><br>Hook over the belt of the LEFT slider (check orientation) and add 1x 5mm spacer and 1x thin spacer</br><br>Add top Corners as you go tostabalize it.
<h4>Assembly Step 3</h4>Slide in the left ord from the rear side of the casing<br>Add 1x thin and 1x 5mm spacer</br><br>Add a GT2-20 pulley and hook over the belt of the BACK slider</br><br>While pushing in the rod further you need to keep a hand on the pulleys so as not to ruin the belt and slider</br><br>Put the rod through the LEFT slider and add a GT2-pulley.</br><br>Hook over the belt of the FRONT slider and add 1x 5mm spacer and 1x thinspacer.</br><br>Take your time when doing this step. Almost done!</br>
<h4>Assembly Step 4</h4>Slide in the BACK rod from the right hand side of the case (lower side of this photo).<br>Add 1x thin spacer and 1x 5mm spacer</br><br>Add a GT2-20 pulley and put over the belt of the RIGHT slider</br><br>Keep the pulleys in place whiles sliding the rod further in</br><br>Put the rod through the BACK slider.</br><br>Add the final GT2-20 pulley and loop over the belt of the LEFT slider.</br><br>Add the final 5mm spacer and a thin spacer.</br>
Add/remove spacers as necessary if the belts are not perfectly aligned over and under the sliders.
Used Tinkercad.com as always. It's free and online :)
I'll recommend printing the corners I also just put up on thingiverse, which makes room for spacers between the bearings and GT2 pulleys.
This will make for much smoother running while holding the rods in place at the same time. Same as Ultimaker 2 printer.
I used 8x Spacers, each 8mm inner diameter, 16mm outer diameter and 5mm thick. I also used 8 normal metal spacers, each 0,8mm thick.
You might need to add or remove spacers as needed in order to make the belts run directly over/under the Sliders.
Squaring the Axes
I recommend you print and use these two tools from Youmagine:
Adjustable Axis Alignment Tool
Ultimaker XY Axis Square