Air 2

by Mecano, published

Air 2 by Mecano Dec 16, 2011

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  • Increased the lateral separation of 234 mm to 250 mm.

  • It has moved 10 mm heated platform down.

  • The resulting print volume depends on the platform and the extruder that we place but you can easily get a size bigger than 190 x 190 x 100 mm.


  • The thickness of the acrylic has risen to 6 mm.

  • The introduction of a crosspiece to give more rigidity.

  • In the attachment points of the rods can be placed brimmed washers (DIN9021).


  • The electronics is on the left side of the printer, it is placed horizontally to get the cable up coming from above.

  • Parts acrylic have holes or slots provided for wiring.


 Like last time, the magnificent infographics have been made with Cinema 4D + VRay by PIKELO.




  To close the entire set will use a squads that I bought at the hardware store, I don't know as universal they are, so I put the plane and in any case can be made in ABS.

 The list of materials can be take from Prusa Air 1, you only need to add screws for squads and replace M8 washers of the rods by brimmed washers.

 To assure proper fit of the plexi pieces, but the thickness is 6 mm, slots is 5.8 mm. Therefore it is quite possible that you have to file them slightly.


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Hi Guys :)

Working on a build of this design.
I am having a hard time sourcing the washers for the bed. The description mentions "brimmed washers" which makes perfect sense to me - however, google does not seem to know what that is...

Where can I find theese?


I was never quite sure what the brimmed washers were intended for really and i have built 3 of these machines and never used them.
"recessed washer" on a google search brings better results I think
Good luck

Hi Mecano,
I am Joan Huertas from Barcelona. I want to make my own prusa i3/air to my final project of my degree. Do you have some created instructions to how start the contruction of the printer?.
Is it possible to fin all the information in http://reprap.org?reprap.org?
Thank you.

I have seen this work and it is a great design, well engineered and precise.

Thanks Thomas, i'm glad you like

With the new stabiliser at the back, you could probably remove one of the back bolts, right? Maybe even one at the front too. You could then shift the z-axis frame down onto the lower bolts, with the smooth bars on top, to gain an extra inch depth, at very little loss of rigidity...

Would it be a good idea to replace the acrylic boards with aluminium sheets? Perhaps this will make the printer sturdier.

Hey Josheeg-

I think our build instruction manual is the only set of documentation out there...


We finished the documentation in late 2012 with the current http://ReplicateMyPart.comReplicateMyPart.com bill-of-materials, but these directions will probably work with just about any Prusa Air build -- even if you change some of the components.

Since it is a collaborative effort by many folks across the world and many different versions, it will probably be impossible to do version control as you suggest. But the electronics / mechanical parts (vitamins) are almost always identical. Most of the variation is in the printed parts designs or addition of optional components.

If you start with our instructions -- you will definitely end up with a working machine. Then, feel free to customize as you see fit!

can you design a bottom brace or plate so you dont have to measure the width of frame.

http://LeapTo3d.comLeapTo3d.com sells full kits and already assemblem Prusa Air 2

Mecano- Awesome design. I'm in a build group with a total of 8 Prusa Air v2 being built. I decided we need some assembly documentation for the first-time builders. It is still a work in progress, but here is the URL: 

Hy mooner, your assembly instructions are a great job. I like your lasersaur too.
Where are you from?

My suggestion for enhancing this design would be to take this y motor mount and laser cut it from acrylic with the same kind of open rod cut outs the sides have to accept the rods. This would make it clip on, simplifying assembly/maintenance. Parts count reduction and backlash reduction would be icing on the cake.


Prusa Y Motor Mount - No Idler
by bseiler

gracias M
écano :)

What size sheet of acrylic is need to cut all the parts? and could you create DXF files for each part separably? This would help those of us with access to a laser cutter to be able to cut all the parts more easily. Many thanks

Original design for 6mm acrylic, you can extract each part using autocad.

We started creating assembly instruction, first try can be found here:


We offering laser cut parts as well at http://www.twelvepro.comwww.twelvepro.com

Enhorabuena por el dise
ño! Me gustaría hacerme una, me podrías decir mas o menos cuanto te han costado los materiales para este modelo?

Gracias :D

Gracias Invis, las piezas de metacrilato las puedes conseguir por unos 75

I like this Prusa Air 2 a lot, very nice design. :)

I see you have rod lengths for Prusa Air 1 but don't have
definitive measurements for Prusa Air 2.

Prusa Air 1:

Smooth Rods:
4 x 410 mm
2 x 345 mm

Threaded Rods:
4 x 285 mm
2 x 210 mm
1 x 430 mm

With the 16 mm lateral increase
and the 10 mm vertical increase,
are the Prusa
Air 2 rod set as follows?

Prusa Air 2:

Smooth Rods:
2 x 410 mm
2 x 426 mm
2 x 346 mm

Threaded Rods:
3 x 301 mm
2 x 211 mm
1 x 446 mm

Thank you Charles. The measures of rods are the same. At Prusa Air 1 the rods were longer than necesary.

Ok, fine business then. :)

All the same rods as Prusa Air 1.

Although, there is one less threaded rod, correct?

-- Charles

The top bar 285 is moved further down. :-D

Oh ok. I see all four 285's now.

I am making one using laser cut stainless steel, heavy but elegant and strong.

Great design!

It must be me, but i want to laser cut these parts and the .dxf files dont appear to have all the dimensions. Can i get the individual parts as files?


Thanks Davo. If you want individual pieces you can delete everything you don't need and save as.. Piece X. If you need another thing please tell me.

I am building one of these and added a few gussets and supports. Once I add the threaded rod I think all the flex will be gone.

What is the distance for the front end, I used a cnc insted of a laser cutter. where did you get your hot end from. gonna post mine as soon as it gets done.

I love it, was looking for laser cutting services, then found it here:


Just got one, my cat love it to... :)

Wow I didn't know it was sold on Ebay

digging the design, ive been searching the past few weeks for different designs so i could start making one of these and this is the closest to the solution i was looking for, i really dont like threaded rod, its such a pain and i have been examining the designs and it seems like most the threaded rod are just there for structure and could be replaced by something more elegant and solid such as what you have done here.

my only question, is there any reason to still using the threaded crossbars? i would imagine you could eliminate just about all of the horizontal bars in place for more acrylic?

Yes, you could substitute, but this would have some pros and some cons. Pros: I guess the new design would be, as you say, more elegant, more attractive. Cons: I think the rods are the most economical and also maintaining compatibility with ABS parts of Prusa. In the case of replacing acrylic have to redesign the Y-motor-bracket.

I'm sure a little thought could replace the 5 rods for 3 pieces of acrylic but it would be a little more expensive.

Love it! I just got my hands on a laser cutter to give this one a try, have you thought about a T-slot version?
Í wish I knew how to use CAD and I'd do a T-slot version

I thought about it since MTO suggested. The truth is that I don't like the T-slot very much because the mounting is a bit more complicated, but it really works very well and in the case of Prusa Air 2 allow us to save the squads. May work for a while and add the CAD version of the T-Slot

Awesome design! I wonder if it would be possible to simplify the Y axis slightly by flipping the smooth rods to be above the threaded rod like in the recent changes in Prusa's github. I also wonder if the lower front threaded rod is still necessary, with the additional crosspiece adding rigidity.

Thanks nrp. I don't undestand you when you say "To flip the smooth rods to be above the threaded rod". Now the smooth rods are above threated rods.

The lower front threated rod probably wasn't necesary but it's helpful when you transport the machine to keep the structure rigid and symmetrical.

Does the extra bracing part intrude into the build volume? Looks like the part would have to move through it as it is printed and a larger part would need to be designed with the wedge shape of the brace in mind.


Up to 100 mm in height don't have to worry about the crosspiece. If the thing you're going to print is greater than 100 mm, you can place it in the center where you can get up to 200 mm, or take into account the taper of the crosspiece. In the dxf file can be seen the taper and the print volume clearly.

Oops just noticed tetnum's reply! :-[

Bugger I am nearly finnished my Prusa Air Build on the old design and it realy needs these changes to make it more ridged. I am going to have to add bracing to make it usable. I should have waited. :-D

I got my printer greater stiffness putting a few squads. do you have photos?

I love this design its clean and simple and just looks awesome. I will run a few FEA simulations to see if the part you are calling the crosspiece can be made smaller because as configured the build can run in to the edges on uncommon large builds.

Thank you very much. What software do you use to do Finite Elements Anayisis? Could you send me a picture when you do it? I would love to see it. =-O

Nx7.5 I will post the results i am just making sure everything is bolted correctly in the assembly mainly the z rods and lateral threaded rods

This is technically a repstrap prusa, and not a reprap. DONT_KNOW

The term "reprap" isn't anywhere in the writeup -- he's calling it a Prusa (for what reason I can't imagine, as the design appears to be largely original), not a reprap.

The design is based on RepRap mendel, and inspired by the Prusa.

When does a repstrap become a reprap? He uses printed parts on all 3 axes, not to mention the extruder, and if you had a printer that was big enough, all the parts here could be printed rather than lasercut or milled. I think you're making too fine a distinction if you think this isn't a reprap.

Open lasercutter designs like the buildog laser and the reprap'ed lasercutter (http://builders.reprap.org/2011/09/boot-strappable-open-laser-cutter-part.html)http://builders.reprap.org/201... further muddy that water, IMHO.

I think this is a winner. I'm going to try it with plywood when I get a chance. Can you re-up the DXF file?

I think it is solved. Try downloading now.