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ultimaker syringe extruder II

by joris, published

ultimaker syringe extruder II by joris Dec 8, 2011
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Summary

Updated and improved some things to better attach to the ultimaker. Works now with 100ml syringes. Still uses the filament for 'driving' the syringe. Also new are the end stop enlargers so the endstops still work with the syringe attached.
The concept is more or less the other way round. The filament pulls the syringe and squeeze the material out.
for more images and movies, see http://www.facebook.com/europerminutedesign

Instructions

Resize the shapes suited for your syringe.
Print the syringe holder.
Print the end stop enlargers.
Screw same [ultimaker spare] m3 bolts through the holes to fixate the syringe holders to the moving head.
Attache everything.
Generate gcode
Without temperature settings
Very low extrusion speed
Open the gcode in a text editor and replace "E" with "E-"
[we want to pull the filament not push it, you can also change the firmware, but this was easier for me]
Print and use the live control panel in repg to tune the flow and speed.

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Found the issue. I had to use ABS as it's more flexible for the bottom of the syringe.
I also found that the reverse extruder plugin doesn't work so we're back to editing the Gcode by hand after slicing.

Hi Joris, Tim from New Zealand here. We met at Fab10 and I was totally enthused about doing chocolate printing workshop you did. I'm wondering if you would consider doing some more specific build instructions for this as my prints don't fit on my UM1 as things are in the way or just don't work. Would this be possible?
Keep doing the great stuff you're doing my friend.

Tim

Hi Tim,

I am not so in more detailed intructions... : ) if they don't fit it could be because this project was done 3 years ago and the ultimakers changed on some area's. Most important is the syringe 'squeezer', if that one works, then you can even mount it with cable ties as well.
If somebody made/makes an update you probably would see it here somewhere...

cheers \ joris

I might wanna try this.

But there is one thing:

How do you swap between the bowden-tubes on the drive side

(normal-printing / sringe-printing) ?

Do you have to disassemble the filament drive block for that ?

Hi,

I made a quickrelease on some of my machines on top of the moving head... [to make it even more easy to print colorfull objects]

but i think the easiest way is to find/order a second ptfe tube

cheers\joris

What I meant is even with two PTFE tubes I would have to swap the tubes on the drive side (since I only have one drive).

On the picture here with the whole Ultimaker, chef and chocolate pieces visible the "normal printing" bowden tube seems to dangle freely into a hidden position therefore I thought you swap them on this side.

Ah, sorry, misread your your first message...

On the drive side there is already a quick release to remove the PTFE tube...

[push down the little 'oval' piece/ring of plastic and remove the tube]

Or do i still not understand your problem...?!

Didn't know that thing was a quick release.

Thanks that answered my question.

Why did you choose to use 2 bowden cables instead of 1 cable and a hinge? How large are the forces?

I use 1 bowden cable, the other one you see on the photo is for the 'normal' high quality prints you can make with an Ultimaker.

I do loop the filament back upwards again so you don't get forces which bend the syringe and you 'gear' it to even produce more force [how much and how much is needed i don't know]

Smart. That makes even more sense than a hinge :)

very cool

im also into frosting but still building my ultimaker

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